Tuesday 6 October 2009 - South Devon Coast Path - Day 4 – Teignmouth to Exminster

A cheery breakfast prepared us well for the dampness outside.

Waves crashed against the breakwater, denying us the low level route to Dawlish.  Bloated from last night’s biryanis

[“The curry sauce wasn’t hot enough” Andrew and I replied to the plump Indian chef in response to his polite enquiry.
Chef looks quizzically at our empty plates…
“Nobody ever finishes our biryanis! What are you complaining about?”
Andrew and I look down, slackening our belts.]

we heaved sweatily up to around 90 metres to meet the main A379 road.  I could swear I heard Andrew muttering under his breath…

“….feel like …. Chinese wrestler’s … jock strap … cooked in chip fat on a greasy day ….”

….then down steep fields with a fine view of the coastal railway to Dawlish, where a very fit looking elderly lady runner shot past us, travelling much faster uphill than we were descending.

Dawlish had a nice sea wall.  Until its pathway dropped a couple of metres into the seething breakers, forcing us back up to the A379, which was taking its toll on Andrew’s overloaded feet.

We made it to Dawlish Warren.  The drizzle had ceased but it was hugely humid.  The cafés were all shut.  It’s ‘out of season’.  We left town to the constant clack on tarmac of Andrew’s walking poles.  Suddenly a café appeared before us.  Cappuccino and a jammy doughnut for me, black coffee for Andrew, still depressed after City’s failure to put away the opposition last night.

Refreshed, we plodded on to Starcross, where a summer ferry to Exmouth still appeared to be operating.  This would be our continuation of the coast path.  Next year.  A choice presented itself.  Bus, train, or continue walking?  Andrew, his poor feet reeking with fatigue, and unable to hobble across the road to the railway station, slumped next to the bus stop, and waited patiently for the next Stagecoach.  His perambulations, for now, were at an end.

It was early (12.15) and I was sure the path would improve.  The weather was fine and warm, the terrain flat.  I carried on past a ghetto of lone stags, all sitting patiently, possibly dreaming of their harem, or plotting how to attain the affections of the hinds that were grouped in a large gaggle some 200 metres away.

I was inland now, next to the Exe estuary, with a shy heron, little egrets, curlew, cormorants and a plethora of gulls for company.

The hostelry at Turf, where the Exeter Ship Canal starts, looked very quiet.  I lunched nearby, on a bench erected

In loving memory of Michael Boothby 1932 – 2006
Loved & worked on the canal

from which the above photo was taken.

A pleasant tow path then led to the Topsham Ferry, which I don’t think was working, at a point where the South West Coast Path heads over the ferry and the path I was on mutates into the Exe Valley Way.  I followed neither, turning instead into the Exminster Marshes Nature Reserve, where I surprised some men with a digger who told me they were de-marshing the footpath through the Reserve.

Over the railway bridge to the Swans Nest Roundabout, where a mobile texting system informed me that the next bus to Exeter would be in 20 minutes.  It did eventually appear, just behind the following bus that was a further 20 minutes behind, but on time.  Perhaps I should have walked right in to Exeter.

Anyway, I was soon reunited with Andrew, then via a jolly taxi ride with our car,  before a 5 hour drive through intermittent rain but quiet traffic to end this little excursion.

There will be a summary, with stats (especially for Alan), and a short slide show if I can distil sufficient images from those taken in the rather gloomy conditions.

Monday 5 October 2009 - South Devon Coast Path - Day 3 - Paignton to Teignmouth

Drizzle splattered over the pavements of Paignton. Andrew decided to start the day as he had finished yesterday. On the bus. Yvonne, our landlady, condoned his plan.

Not being a wimp, I headed off along the seafront, past hundreds of beach huts and underneath the pier.

Crows had replaced the terns of yesterday. It was dull and wet - not all that unusual for a coastal path trip.

I plodded on whilst Andrew endured a cup of instant coffee in a café run by a loquacious cockney.
Torbay came and went. Torquay seemed to last for ever. It did however become smarter. Its role as a graveyard for retired executives was confirmed by rashes of memorial benches in every green enclave.

Soon we were happily tramping along leafy woodland paths, with dog walkers waiting for their own memorial benches as our only company.

Andrew took whatever short cuts he could whilst I took a more purist approach in improving weather - it was a fine afternoon and actually sunny by the time we reached Shaldon, with fine views over Teignmouth (see today's image).

Our journey (22 km for me, much less for Andrew) ended with a short ferry trip, on a big old rowing boat, that took us nearly all the way to Devonia House, our home for tonight.

We then sought out the best restaurant in Teignmouth - an Indian - before acceding to one of Andrew's unfortunate addictions - a Manchester City football match on a pub TV.

Next Day

Sunday 4 October 2009 - South Devon Coast Path - Day 2 - Dartmouth to Paignton

We were greeted by a dull and overcast morning after overnight mizzle. But a full English had us champing at the bit for today's perambulations. A grumpy Spar lady failed to dampen our enthusiasm and a stroll through the sleeping town located the other workers. Two jolly ferrymen, who soon delivered us safely to Kingswear, whence the Coast Path led us through pretty woods.

The other early risers were busy in their sailing boats, readying themselves for the starter's gun. Just one minor problem. No wind. Yesterday's blustery conditions have dissolved into today's humid, overcast, calm weather, with sea fret over Torquay.

Two chaps welcomed us into a cabin from which they perform the role previously carried out by coastguards, on a charitable basis. All merchant vessels over 2000 tons are required to broadcast their whereabouts constantly, so their names were on the screen. Another large unidentified vessel on the horizon was identified, via Jane's Ship Silhouettes, as one of two naval supply ships.

A little further on, after a flurry of cirl buntings and a man with a telescope trained on a distant grey seal, a steep pull through some gates found us at Coleton Fishacre Garden, a National Trust property. We were dripping in the humidity. "Coffee and cake, please." "Would you like some water as well?" "Yes please."

The gardens were still rich with brightly coloured flowers - some are pictured above; the conditions today were too dark for any other phone photos.

The path undulated like a fairground ride for the next section to Man Sands. Lunch was most welcome, though for the second day running my butty was singularly unappetising.

Afternoon tea at Berry Head, where the Napoleonic Fort didn't quite match the splendour of its Italian counterparts, was followed by a gentle stroll into Brixham, where Andrew, 19 km into today's stroll, changed his mode of transport. Half an hour later, at 4.30, he had reached our B & B in Paignton and was preparing for a good rinse.

Meanwhile, I spent some time in Grove Woods, beyond Brixham, inadvertently taking a 2 km diversion to achieve a 400 metre progression along the coast path.

At 5 pm I entered the sea fret and donned waterproofs for the first time for many weeks.

The paths remained pleasant and rural. The Devon Belle steamed past, headed by a magnificent old engine - a GWR County Class or similar.

By 6 pm I had entered Paignton, where I discovered that my map bore little relation to the ground on which I found myself. A call to Andrew resolved the problem, and he kindly ventured out to track me down.

The inadequacy of my map was confirmed...
"That's a map of Dartmouth" observed Andrew.
Oops!

Paignton revealed little by way of options for sustenance, but my convoluted wanderings had not been in vain - I'd spotted the Harbour Restaurant, which fed us very well.

I've spent 9 hours walking the best part of 30 km today, with around 1400 metres of ascent, so am looking forward to another good night's kip.

Next Day

Saturday 3 October 2009 - South Devon Coast Path - Day 1 - Torcross to Dartmouth

24 hours after leaving home, Andrew and I finally made it to Torcross this morning, finishing our long journey on First's No 93 bus from Kingsbridge.

Admittedly, most of the 'journey' had been spent in the excellent company of Colin, Liz and Simon at our overnight stop in Exeter.

As usual, we set off walking in fine weather. We were followed today by a brisk breeze, with dark scudding clouds overhead.

After 200 metres the call of a tea shop was too great to resist, so it was noon by the time we embarked along Slapton Sands, having admired the nearby relic Sherman tank - in memory of the 'Operation Tiger Tragedy' - which looked only marginally older than the Austin Healey 3000 parked next to it.

And so to Dartmouth. Past a surprising array of wild flowers and butterflies, through the pretty villages of Strete and Stoke Fleming, the varied paths led all of 16 km (10 miles) to our destination. Our 4.30 pm arrival was followed by a long rest in our B & B, then an excellent meal with Chilean Pinot Grigot round the corner at Taylor's Restaurant.

Dartmouth is a lovely town, and we've spent some time 'wandering' both before and after darkness fell and the full moon rose high over the rooftops.

Highlights of the day:

a Slow Worm on a woodland path;


an incongruous tangle with a large group of overdressed wedding guests outside the church at Dartmouth Castle;

and of course the delights of the coast path - a varied route with some fine views, with afternoon sun lighting the River Dart, seen above at Warfleet Creek with Kingswear as a backdrop, shortly before entering Dartmouth.

It may only have been 10 miles, but it has tired us out...

Goodnight all!

Next Day

Happy Birthday Blog!

I started these scribblings on 1 October 2007, exactly two years ago, so it is now six years since I was last in full time employment!

Doesn’t time fly!

Whilst the blog is basically my indulgence, it has proved to be a good medium for keeping a diary and recording activities etc on a fairly timely basis.  It has enabled us to keep in touch with family and friends from distant parts.  New friends have also been made, too numerous to mention, as a result of the blog, and also as a consequence of me and Sue continuing to take part in the TGO Challenge annual backpack across Scotland.  The image above is taken from this year’s Challenge, and shows me on the south summit of Gulvain towards the end of our toughest day, on 10 May 2009, with the Nevis peaks in the background.

Scotland can be wonderful in May!

Here’s a picture from last year, with Tim and Kate Wood, on their 10th Challenge, crossing the bridge over the River Spey at Carnachuin.  Sadly, Tim and Kate were unable to take part in this year’s walk, so this may be the last time they crossed this characterful bridge, as it was washed away in this year’s August floods in Scotland.

Readers may be aware that Sue (Nallo Lady) is out of sorts at present and unable to get out as much as she would like to (she can’t carry more than a small bum bag, and has limited ‘range’).  I shall miss her company whilst she remains incapacitated, and it’s a solo entry that has been made for the 2010 TGO Challenge, so the old Phoenix Phreerunner tent will be accompanying me on that trip.  It astonishes me, when I read so many whinges from backpackers about condensation problems in their tents, that this 25 year old single skin tent seems to have retrospectively skipped beyond the current leading edge of tent technology.  Whilst its old seams need TLC, the tent is, and always has been, free of any condensation.

Anyway, whilst Sue has been grounded, she has made a new friend.  He lives in one of our window boxes:

She also discovered this pretty little devil in her apple tree; with its bright yellow stripe, red dots and two ‘horns’ it should be quite easy to catalogue, but we have no idea as to its identity.

Today’s plan had been to enjoy the Snowdon Horseshoe walk, just as I did six years ago to celebrate my new found part time status (I recommend it), but with a four day trip starting imminently I’ve been lazy and stayed at home.  Hopefully Susan from Connecticut will join me on a stroll up Snowdon later this month.

I wrote a year ago about my feelings on this blog and its place in the outdoor blogging community, and those feelings haven’t changed.  I enjoy the process and will continue so long as that is the case, aided by whoever I can get to vary the monotony by way of guest entries.  There’s certainly plenty to read for those with time on their hands – 123,000 words in the past year (1st year: 165,000!), with about 1,200 images (1,200).  The blog is now publicly ‘followed’ by 25 people (4) and has 52 subscribers (17).  This is pretty middle of the road for an established UK outdoors blog, with many bloggers achieving a much larger readership (as a result of their notoriety or charisma or subject matter [gear?] etc), with Lighthiker seemingly leading the way with an astonishing 593 (200) subscribers.

Finally, today the page loads for the blog have hit the 50,000 mark (year 1: 18,000; year 2: 32,000), with some 30,000 unique visitors and 10,000 returning visitors (both roughly having doubled in the second year).  This is all pretty irrelevant, but it is nice to know that some folk appreciate the entries, whether they be regular visitors or have found the blog through a search engine, in which case I hope it has been a useful resource.

Hello to all of you, thank you for visiting, and your comments are as always most welcome.

Now where’s that rucksack?