Tuesday, 7 September 2010

Going Home - Torbole to Manchester

Saturday:
Josef's Ford Transit Estate Van proved an ideal way of transporting us and the bikes to Dornbirn, being rather more convenient than the 'Bike Bus', and cheaper even after paying all his expenses.
It took around 7 hours, then there was the Cleaning of the Bike.
Markus's remains dirty!
A trip back to the pub/restaurant by the Rolls Royce museum yielded an excellent meal of spetzl and salad, then Markus and I were picked up by Jutta (just returned from Thailand) and driven around for a while whilst Wolfie (just returned from his own Transalp crossing and the successful summiting of Gran Paradiso and Castor) pondered the nature of his birthday/wedding anniversary surprise.
Unfortunately he turned out to be not quite as skilled at ten-pin bowling as he is at climbing 4000 metre Alpine summits, but, joined by Ange and Dominic we all enjoyed Jutta's excellent choice of venue.
A very jolly evening.
Sunday:
Leaving Markus to luxuriate in his own company at his flat (ie for a change he didn't have to put up with my snoring), I also enjoyed a good sleep in W+J's spare room. Markus joined us for breakfast and a slide show from Wolfie, then The Tank was returned, shiny but used, to its generous owner.
After 11 days of my non-stop company, it was probably to his great relief that there remained no further impediment to Markus dropping me into Switzerland to enable me to resume my journey at St. Margrethen railway station.
It was a smooth ride to Zurich on a sunny day. Just one minor difficulty - I was nearly two days early for my flight home.
Whilst a stroll around Zurich on a holiday Sunday in the sunshine did pleasantly pass some of that time, 48 hours of such strolling could inevitably prove to be something of an endurance test.
Until very recently, a visit to Nick and Daniela would have involved a trip to Shanghai. Luckily, they have returned to Europe thanks to Nick's success in getting a job with SKINS, who make compression base layer garments and bikewear,
and are based in Zug, just south of Zurich. They live temporarily in nearby Knonau, so I headed out there, armed usefully with Nick's email and mobile contact details. The inconvenience of my arriving just after they had returned from five days at Eurobike didn't show, and we enjoyed an evening of leisure and catching up.
Monday:
No further progress towards Manchester was achieved today. A delightful country walk to Cham and Zug in lovely warm, sunny weather occupied most of my day (see separate posting if I get around to it), before spending another pleasant evening with the Workers, Nick and Daniela.
Tuesday:
A leisurely departure from Knonau in deteriorating weather has returned me to Zurich, and onwards to the airport, where I've failed to succumb to the vigorous Volvo S60 and Honda CR-Z advertisements and am waiting at the gate for the EasyJet flight to Manchester.
I'll be home for lunch!
The images are from Zurich and Cham - I'll leave you to work out which is which...

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Friday, 3 September 2010

Friday 3 September 2010 - Chilling Out in Riva/Torbole

Wow! A lie in!

From my bed I could see green hillside merging into grey cloud that concealed the summit of Monte Baldo. But as the senses awakened, sunshine on the Pregasina hillside indicated a fine day, with just a touch of cloud on the highest tops.

A full breakfast was followed by a trip to a nearby bike mechanic, where 30 minutes and €20 later the rear brake on the bike I will never ride again was as good as new.

After enjoying a coffee with Markus in the harbour area whilst on bike repair duty, he took to the pool and I strolled into Riva.

The day's exertions were restricted to the 150 metre ascent to the Bastione (pictured, along with the view down to Riva from its balcony) along a pleasant winding path, but sufficiently energetic to warrant a beer at the top. A via ferrata route starts near here, but I had no equipment.

That's my excuse!

Back at Torbole by late afternoon, Josef and Elisabeth had arrived. They had driven all the way from Dornbirn this morning to enjoy an afternoon beside Lago di Garda before transporting us and the bikes back to Dornbirn tomorrow.

We enjoyed a pleasant, albeit uneventful (unless something happened in Voralberg German that I didn't notice), evening with them.

Next Posting - Going Home
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Transalp '10 - Epilogue

Regular readers will know that I find this 'post trip' entry necessary as a means of inserting an index and some links to try to make reading the trip report in chronological order that much easier, and to provide more by way of resource for anyone wishing to emulate our pleasurable Transalp experience.

So the index will be linked from here.

And there will be a link to a web page with only a brief daily summary, a kit list, and other useful information.

There will also be a slide show.

The image is one of many taken but not used in earlier postings, chosen as it typifies the scenery through which a Transalp crossing will pass.

Next Posting - Chilling out in Riva and Torbole
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Transalp '10 - Day 8 - 2 September 2010 - Val d'Algone to Torbole

Route: Albergo Brenta – Preore – Tione di Trento – Storo – Passo di Tremalzo - Passo/Bocca di Various (circa 1800m) - Pregasina – Riva – Torbole (Night: Hotel Villa Franca)
Distance: 80-85 km (Total: 395-435 km)
Ascent: 1950 metres (Total: 13900 metres)
Descent: 3050 metres (Total: over 14000 metres)
Time: 9.5 hours (Total: 69 hours)
[Distances subject to checking when I get home, otherwise fairly accurate.]
A fitting last day. Markus's quote for the day: "If you haven't tackled the downhill from Tremalzo to Riva, you haven't lived."
In keeping with most other days the Esteemed Coordinator changed our planned route, this time to a more challenging day with a fine final descent.
After a brisk descent to Tione in the cool morning air we abandoned our detailed maps once again. "It should be an easy valley descent to Storo" remarked our leader, scrutinising my A4 sheet covering our entire route. My eyes told a different story, so the 350 metre ascent to a col were less of a surprise to me than to the rather miffed and optically challenged Coordinator.
The extra height gained did however result in quite a swift 20km, 400m descent to Storo, albeit on a rather unpleasant main road, aided for part of the way by the slipstream of three German Transalp cyclists.
The first 40km of the day had taken just two hours, and we were rewarded by coffee and croissants at a pleasant café in Storo, our breakfast at Albergo Brenta having been rather inadequate.
Now, the chosen route and our final significant climb, was the 1300 metre haul up to Tremalzo. Sue will recall this, as we drove up the road a few weeks ago, passing many cyclists on the way. It would be hard work, I knew that, so I bought some chocolate.
For the first 300 metres of ascent along the main road to Riva via Lago di Ledro, I kept falling behind Markus (as usual) but with a bit of grit between my teeth I always managed to haul him back, so we arrived together at the turn where a minor road leads up to Tremalzo.
Photos were taken. A stream of bike buses was dropping off cyclists here, or taking them all the way to the col, much to Markus's disgust. He is outraged by this behaviour, taking the view that they should cycle up from Riva. I think it seems like a nice afternoon out - starting from the top. After all, we don't plan to cycle back to Bludenz; or perhaps I am missing something.
"You go ahead" Markus surprised me. Perhaps he doesn't want his usual long wait at the top, I thought. "There will be a treat at 1000 metres and at 1500 metres" I promised, assuming Markus would be tailing me all the way.
I set off, going quite well for a change. In fact, rising at over 550 metres an hour compared with my previous best of 400 metres in an hour. 1000 metres came; no sign of Markus. I'll treat him by not making him wait, I thought, and continued up to the top, passing quite a few Transalpers on the way. None passed me. I am no longer the slowest Transalper. I was pleased. Markus was Not Impressed. Unbeknown to me he was suffering from a minor medical problem and had not requested the antidote that I carry. So he was sore, and had missed his treats, when he finally arrived at the top.
I bought him some lunch, and we were friends again. I think.
The lunch at Rif Garda was rather poor, so perhaps I owe him another treat.
Anyway, my superhuman effort to make it up at a reasonable pace meant that we had plenty of time to enjoy the long descent to Riva. This had been A Worry.
It's a stony uphill track to a short tunnel, then a superb (if stony - suspension is useful) undulating journey on a fairly busy track compared to most that we have been on, over Passo di Various along track 421 and then down path 422. We mistakenly took a steep footpath for part of the descent to Pregasina, rather than the accepted bike route, but it made for a bit extra excitement and we made it down intact.
The upper sections of this fine route are along sweeping stony tracks high on the vertiginous mountainside above Lago di Garda. Care is needed, as are frequent stops to admire the views to Monte Baldo and elsewhere - a little hazy today but not as bad as last time I was here.
Below Pregasina the bike track follows the course of the old road, gently descending along the edge of the abyss below which the green waters of Lago di Garda await the unwary. It's a superb descent to Riva, and a fitting conclusion to any Transalp trip.
Giant ice creams were our chosen celebratory fare, then we pootled along Lago di Garda's busy cycle tracks, narrowly avoiding several fatal incidents, to Torbole and the luxurious Hotel Villa Franca. Pizzas, beers, and tiramisu for Markus ("The Best Ever") concluded an excellent day and a fine trip through the Alps.
The image is the view towards Rocchetta Giochello that I have enjoyed from my bench in Riva whilst composing this entry.
Thanks to those who have commented, latterly to Louise and The Weekend Dude, and to Sue for the 'Pass Out' - it's a shame you weren't able to join us here in sunny Riva. I hope you've all enjoyed these entries from your armchairs. We've certainly had a great time in 'The Saddle'.
Next time: The Epilogue...

Next Posting - Epilogue
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Thursday, 2 September 2010

Torbole - we've Arrived

Here's our view, earlier this afternoon, from above Pregasina.

Riva is hidden to the left, but our destination, Torbole, where we are safely installed in a good hotel for a couple of nights, is in clear view at the head of Lago di Garda on a sunny afternoon.

We have a day of leisure tomorrow, during which I'll enjoy writing the posting for our final, most satisfying, day.

Now we are off to celebrate Markus's fourth and my first Transalp success.

Next Posting - Day 8
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Transalp '10 - Day 7 - 1 September 2010 - Dimaro to Val d'Algone

Route: Dimaro – Madonna di Campiglio – Lago di Val d´Agola – Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m) – Val d'Algone (Night: Albergo Brenta)
Distance: 40-45 km
Ascent: 1700 metres
Descent: 1300 metres
Time: 8.5 hours
The 'Jolly' breakfast lived up to its reputation. More bits kept arriving. They are proud of their sumptuous continental breakfast fare.
Gloves and windshirts were deployed for the long forest track up to the posh town of Madonna. It was cool, even down at 800 metres. But sunny, if you were not in the shadow of the mountains. We were in that shadow, cast by the northern ramparts of the Brenta Dolomites, for well over two hours.
There weren't extensive views from the woods (mainly pine, with dashing black squirrels) through which the LRT (land rover track) styled cycle path passed. We just rose slowly (a bit more quickly in Markus's case) up the 950 metre slope, occasionally on foot on the steeper sections in my case. A few cyclists passed me, travelling much faster than I could contemplate.
I am the slowest Transalper, or should that be 'Transalpiniste'? Hundreds have passed me during the past week. I have yet to gain that satisfaction, and am not expecting it to come my way.
I'd pushed on as hard as possible to get to Madonna. We arrived after 3 hours, before 11.30, in plenty of time to get my brake attended to at the bike shop before it shut for lunch. A swarm of Swiss cyclists with another brake problem delivered the bad news. Despite the array of new bikes outside, the shop was shut. "Just take a new one" some wag suggested.
So, after pausing for cappucini in the Suisse Bar, we continued south along a pleasantly downhill and windy path, to Bar Ristorante Cascate - situated in a wonderful position adjacent to some extensive waterfalls and with a view to the glaciated plateau from which the Adamello peaks protrude. Very pleasant, and there was not enough wind today to blow our pasta bolognaise into the river.
Having refuelled, we BOTH flew down a few hundred metres of descent. We had swapped bikes. I found Markus's fine, and could keep up for a change. He declared my rear brake to be working if you apply enough pressure. I must try harder! I think part of the problem is my unfamiliarity with disc brakes, which I had always assumed would be sharper than my 'non-discs'. The opposite appears to be the case...
This is all a bit puzzling. I will now leave the subject and try hard to be braver with the braking tomorrow.
Anyway, we swapped back and headed up another LRT, blagging our way past a road closure by carrying the bikes above a precipice. After a pretty lake, Lago di Val d´Agola, with a wonderful Brenta Dolomites backdrop marred only by the presence of a large crane, we endured a steep 250 metre 'push' to the day's high point, Passo Bregn del Ors (1836 m). We lingered (pictured) in that beautiful spot, surrounded by Dolomitic peaks. High above us was Passo 12 Apostoli and its nearby rifugio, from where Alan Roberts brought a signpost home to Cheshire - collected during a memorable 'Via delle Bocchette' trip, if my memory serves me.
An enjoyable 600 metre descent down Val d'Algone on stony LRTs brought us neatly to tonight's resting place, Albergo Brenta, where Markus had booked us in long before I arrived. "I overtook three cars" he proudly claimed.
This was all nicely done by 6.30, whilst Markus enjoyed his afternoon nap, only to find that Orange (aka Tim) hasn't reached these parts just yet. Anyway, we've now had a lovely meal and need lots of rest in preparation for the final episode of this 'Two Men on a Bummel' escapade, which will be in progress when this posting finally transmits....
Now it's back to 'Rum Doodle' to study how this sort of trip should be 'properly' orchestrated!

Next Posting - Torbole, we've Arrived
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