Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Tuesday, 20 May 2008

Tuesday 20 May 2008 - TGO Challenge Day 12 - Plan - Allt Darrarie to Tarfside

Today’s report is here; the planned route and statistics are shown below:

1 Allt Darrarie
2 Shielin of Mark
3 By Falls of Unich
4 Glen Lee – Westbank
5 Tarfside

Statistics

21 km
530 metres ascent
7.9 hours

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Monday, 19 May 2008

Monday 19 May 2008 - TGO Challenge Day 11 - Plan - Braemar to Allt Darrarie

Today’s report is here; the planned route and statistics are shown below:

1 Braemar
2 Auchallater
3 Glen Callater
4 Lochcallater Lodge
5 Path junction at NO 202 846
6 Carn an t-Sagairt Mor
7 Carn a’ Coire Boidheach
8 Lochnagar
9 Clais Rathadan
10 Spittal of Glenmuick
11 Allt Darrarie - wild camp

Statistics

29 km
1400 metres ascent
12.2 hours

(3 Munros)

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Sunday, 18 May 2008

Sunday 18 May - TGOC Day 10 - To The Fleshpots - Silent Camp to The Camping Club Site in Braemar

Actual: 15km, 259 metres ascent
We had already walked 9 km of today's planned 23 km. We continued to 1 km beyond the Linn of Dee, then as we weren't sure whether we could get past Mar Lodge we turned around and went past Inverey to reach Victoria Bridge and finish as planned. 15 km for the 'day'.
Time 4 hours 45 mins including 1 hour 10 mins stops.
No of new Challengers seen: 1
No of parasitic Challengers seen: 1
No of Challengers in Braemar: Lots

After a cold but cosy night it was good to feel the sun hit the tent at 7 am. It had been exceedingly quiet, with just the occasional chirp of a bird breaking the silence once the asthmatic deer had wandered off last night.

We enjoyed the luxury of a lie in, knowing that it was an easy morning's stroll to Braemar.
By the time we left camp at about 9 am the bright sun had been obscured by an obstinate wet cloud.

Waterproofs were deployed for most of the hour's stroll to Linn of Dee.
By then it was sunny enough for photos of the deep gorge.

There's a memorial stone here to Gwyn Gatenby and Katie Todd, who sadly drowned here 'accidentally' on 16 October 1927.

Having got cold feet about our planned route past Mar Lodge, our revised plan took us past magnificent specimens of inedible Gyromitra esculenta to Victoria Bridge by road. This had two bonuses. Firstly we enjoyed the sight of a red squirrel outside Muir Cottage, then Derek and Pat Hopkins joined us for a while until we left the road.

Inverey SYHA - in its final throes before closure

Time for a brew. We were joined by some chatty Duke of Edinburgh Gold Award kids from St Leonards, then by The Dutchman who had Jeff Rowe in tow. More about him later.
After lightening our loads by offloading lots of excess nuts (to Jeff in particular), we headed off into some beautiful woodland - see picture - this was the Morrone Birkwood National Nature Reserve, apparently the best British example of Downy Birch woodland with Juniper. It's as it would have been just after the last Ice Age.

The lovely path led us to an orientation point at the Tomintoul lookout.

An excellent lunch spot with the unfamiliar comfort of a bench, shared with an elderly couple who had strayed from their mission to buy a newspaper in Braemar.
So it can't be far now!


We descended through more woods to a road to join a chap with a massive rucksack. Surely not a Challenger?

'Where have you come from?' was the probing question.
'Morrone' the unrevealing reply.
'Oh'
'Didn't you see me land? he asked.

All was revealed - a hungry paraglider who had flown in for lunch.

Then we reached the café, meeting lots more Challengers, including Alan Sloman, who is also blogging his way across [NOT!], and his mate Lord Elphus (aka Phil).

Our new shoes seem to have made it to camp - who ordered them?!

The rest of our Braemar day sped past, and time pressures dictate a close to today's report from the walk (subject to earlier scribbles below).

But first I must thank WD and Dawn for rescuing my valuables bag from the excellent fish and chip shop, and apologise to them for eating the last huge haddock before they arrived!

More on gear:

Aquagear Water Filter - easy to use, we have used it for drinking water in places where the water source was lower down. Could easily have managed without it as all our water seemed excellent anyway.

Trekmates cheap (£15) gaiters - they don't stay up and as with all Trekmates gaiters the elastic comes untucked easily and catches in the boots. Bin on return home! (Binned at North Water Bridge, actually.)

Blackberry Curve 8320 - suits my one-fingered typing. Don't know how the blog appears - will find out on return! Zoom on camera appears to have broken. (It seems to have worked very well.)

Next day: Day 11
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Saturday 17 May - TGOC Day 9 - Heathery Munros - Balcony Camp to Wild Camp beside wood about 2 km beyond White Bridge, at NO 033 893

Actual: 29km, 1007 metres ascent
As planned, except for starting 6 km into today's route, and continuing for 9 km into tomorrow's route.
Time 9 hours 55 mins including 2 hours 20 mins stops.
No of new Challengers seen: 6
No of other Challengers seen: 1

Last year I was sitting on the summit of Mount Battock, on the penultimate day of the Challenge, when a man strode up out of nowhere.
'You know' he said, 'you can walk for days without seeing anyone, then you arrive at a remote summit and find someone there...'
We had chatted briefly before setting off in opposite directions on our chosen solitary (exclusive?) routes.
Today Sue and I were minding our own business (actually we spent 30 cool, battery draining minutes abortively trying to send yesterday's report) on the summit of a fairly remote Munro, Carn an Fhidhleir, when a man strode up out of nowhere.
'You know' he said, 'you can walk for days without seeing anyone, then you arrive at a remote summit and find someone there...'
Yes, it was Graham Brookes again, on his 19th Challenge, still looking for remote summits. He was surprised to discover that this was in fact a CCS point, and happily devoured the shortbread.
We chatted - I admire Graham, he takes high, challenging, routes. This was his 20th summit and our own 15th. Those who deprive themselves of height missed the splendid views we had today; north to the Cairngorm plateau, with all its high peaks retaining wide strips of snow; east to Lochnagar and its relatives, which we will soon encounter at closer quarters; south to the nearby mass of hills around Glenshee; and west to our route this way, south of which the distinct shape of Creag Meagaidh dominated. The visibility was good today, we could see far to the west, with snow lined hills stretching to the distant horizon.

Intermittent rain in the night didn't bother us. It had stopped by the time we rose, with a cloud ceiling of about 800 metres.

Tim and Kate had gone by the time we emerged, but we were away by 8.15, leaving the peaceful balcony camp to Derek and Pat.

The Feshie glen is lovely. By the time we reached the Eidart bridge, erected in 1957 by a REME infantry workshop, we had passed many more excellent camping spots, some showing signs of recent usage.

There we left the main drag to head south up pathless heather, interspersed with peat hags, towards the Munro summit of Carn an Fhidhleir. On the way we passed great clods of river bank that had been eroded away then washed high onto its grassy margins.

There were few birds around - just an occasional frightened grouse.

The tops were now clear of cloud. Lochnagar came into view, and Morrone, south of Braemar, festooned with aerials. We brewed up, and discovered that none of those aerials belongs to Orange.

At the summit, our chance meeting with Graham.

As on Mt Battock a year earlier we parted in opposite directions, but our paths do converge again in a few days' time.

An Sgarsoch summit

An Sgarsoch was reached and left with ease, despite a few snowfields, and it was a pleasant walk on a fine afternoon, to the ruins of Geldie Lodge. Beyond here was what we expected to be the crux of today's walk - the crossing of the Geldie Burn.

We thought we would have to don our crocs and wade across, but as you can see from the photo, the Geldie today was benign, and rather tame.

We had originally planned to stop hereabouts for the night, but the fleshpots of Braemar beckoned, so we decided to continue for a couple of hours, across more streams, to our present position beyond White Bridge, leaving Braemar just a morning's stroll away.

Having met only Graham all day we now encountered a few cycling Munro baggers, and a handful of Challengers, including a nice lady called Joy - she had upset 'The Dutchman' by camping where he wanted to by the Red House.

'Why should I move?' she said 'I was here first, it's on my route, and the place is the size of a football pitch'. We agreed she had a point (it was bigger than a football pitch) but The Dutchman's nose was well out of joint.

Then we encountered three Challengers struggling across the river, which in truth was not very deep.

In a secluded nook by White Bridge we found Tom Hume and his mate Gordon. They had found a great spot to camp; Tom had remembered it from 1987.

And on to our own spot, recommended by Heather T-S.
Derek and Pat were camped nearby, so we took care to pitch out of their sight, but we do share their stream, this being on of the few places around here that isn't reliant on river water.

I was pleased to receive a comment from Podcast Bob the other day. And yes, we will try to track down Dave and get him to do some 'turns'. The Americans he was with were finding the Challenge a 'breeze' and will be far ahead by now. I hope you enjoyed the Cape Wrath trail, Bob, though I know where you would prefer to be. It's ironic that your own podcasts may have attracted the entrants who you lost out to in the draw. That's life, I suppose.

Talking of Bob... Here's a kit report:

The good weather hasn't really put much to the test, but:

The MSR Superfly stove's 3rd self igniter has broken! Shall I bother with another one? The stove keeps going out, but maybe just needs a good prick. A poke with the needle from the first aid kit seems to have done the trick for now.

The GoLite Quest rucksack is extremely comfy. But how durable is it, and how will it perform in the wet? Everyone I've met who has this sack likes it, whereas the lighter Pinnacle is not to everyone's taste in terms of comfort and storage compartments.

The Nallo tent is fine, but despite having wild camped in it for around 50 nights, including the HRP in the Pyrenees, it has never seen a proper storm. It does suffer from condensation - a nuisance when that makes the foot of the tent, and hence sleeping bag, damp. Two extra small guys at the tail of the tent would reduce that problem by keeping the outer, where the condensation forms, away from the inner tent.

'Gear of the Trip' is the pot cosy, which really does facilitate cooking without gas once your pan has boiled. Brilliant. Thanks Bob (I'll insert a link here when I get home.)

A close second is Sue's i-pod. Yes, second to a pot cosy!

Fopas have included:

Nearly setting fire to the tinder dry grass when burning used loo paper! Perhaps we should have 'bagged it out'.

Taking Rose's advice on strengthening the windshield....gaffer tape actually burns quite well itself, Rose. What a mess!

Finally a message for Notchy, who I know scans these pages:
Congratulations on getting up Ben More Assynt whilst we were fiddling around on Corrieyairack Hill. Hoping we have similar weather in a couple of weeks' time...

Next Day: Day 10
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Sunday 18 May 2008 - TGO Challenge Day 10 - Plan - Geldie Lodge to Braemar

Today’s report is here; the planned route and statistics are shown below:


1 Wild camp by Geldie Burn
2 White Bridge
3 Linn of Dee
4 Victoria Bridge – Tomintoul
5 Braemar

Statistics

23 km
300 metres ascent
8.2 hours


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Saturday, 17 May 2008

Friday 16 May - TGOC Day 8 - A Sociable Outing - Flat Camp to Wild Camp 400 metres short of Ruighe nan Leum

Actual: 28km, 748 metres ascent
As planned, except for a pleasant diversion along the Badenoch Way, and a continuation for 6 km into tomorrow's route.
Time 9 hours including 2 hours stops.
No of new Challengers seen: 10
No of Challengers seen who started from 3 different places: 0
No of other Challengers seen: 0

The food parcel was duly released by the lady of the camp site, after much bargaining, for the princely sum of £3. This covered storage for a month and our fee for the night's camping.

'You are walking all across Scotland' she said, 'I can't possibly charge you!'

Her recommendation for a meal was The Newtonmore Grill, a transport café just down the road. It proved excellent, with the steak pie crammed full of succulent meat.

We were lulled to sleep by the quack of the camp ducks and the asthmatic hum of an RV generator.

Today it dawned bright and clear. A leisurely start after Sue's foot repairs saw us strolling down Newtonmore high street in the sun by 8.20, past the Glen Hotel which looked ok, but if its food is of the same standard as its hanging baskets it may taste a bit plasticy.

Crocs were again deployed in my case, for the first 15 km today. I've now done about 50 km of the walk in them and the soles are now almost completely smooth. They are exceedingly comfy - it's like walking in carpet slippers!

Little and Large appeared in front of us. It was Tim and Kate Wood, on their 10th Challenge, fresh from the pleasures of the Watsons' B+B. We finished up walking with Tim and Kate all day. They may be in their 70s but they were carrying heavier loads than us (Tim carries 36 pounds) and are extremely fit.

Striding towards us as we entered Kingussie was Les Ellis, another seasoned Challenger, who proudly informed us that he had now started from all 12 permitted points. (The Mad Austrian will only need about 4 years to achieve that!)

Ruthven Barracks soon loomed large on the horizon.


Les stayed with us for our jaunt past the Barracks (lots of photos were taken) and along the scenic pleasures of the Badenoch Way, with lots of bird watchers in evidence. Hmmm, it's an RSPB reserve. We were entertained by trilling curlews and laughing lapwings and an out of rhyme buzzard, mewing...

The birds were too fast for me, but these Wild Pansies stayed still for a moment

Amongst all this was a chocolate caramel shortbread (CCS) stop, pictured. It went down well today.



Joined briefly by Jean Smith and Chris Kitt, then by Derek and Pat Hopkins, all on their first Challenges, we ambled along to Baileguish.


From the left: Chris, Sue, Kate, Tim, Derek, Pat, Les and Jean

During the morning we discovered that Mark Alvarez, a fellow blogger, and his US compatriots, the Le Borwits, had sadly dropped out. A great shame, condolences to all of them.

Tim, Kate, Sue and I pressed on to an idyllic lunch spot. With micro-ticks in residence. Luckily my eyesight is poor, so (officially) I am still 'a tick free zone'.

We took a route through forest which half way through was blocked off for forestry work. If they had indicated that earlier we'd have gone a different way. Anyway, we muscled our way through, past an old discarded hat. The rubbish people leave around - terrible!

Health + Safety warnings on the bridge at Carnachuin warned of the possible terrible consequences of crossing it. We ignored the suggested 5 km diversion and strolled uneventfully across.

Two huge nipple free bosoms protruded above a log outside Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy.
Wow.
As we approached they revolved in unison.
'Hello' said the two bald Bobs.
'Have you seen my hat?' said one.
Oops - Tim and I exchanged glances - knowing we should have picked up the old hat in the forest.
'It was only an old one' said Bob, but I've lost my bandana as well, and my head's hot.'
'There's a bucket of water over there' said the other Bob.
'But that's for the toilet!' complained Bob.

Bob Fyfe and Bob Forbes were doing the Challenge for the first time, guided by their more experienced friend, Jeanette Tennant, who had dropped out with blisters - she was one of those tales of woe related to us yesterday by Linda at the pottery. They should make it though, and they had chopped lots of wood to keep them warm tonight.

We noted the last entry in the Bothy Book, from John Jocys, also from Altrincham, who we are taking home next week. He likes this bothy.

After an hour in the good company of The Two Bobs, with CCS all round and a supply left for The Mad and Hungry Austrian, the four of us ambled on up the glen just as another Challenger arrived at the bothy.

The landslide about which many warnings had been issued had a nice path across it, and we progressed easily for another 6 km up the glen, to join Derek and Pat at an excellent and roomy camping spot with a good 'tap' at NN 882 890.

We were well ensconced in our tents by the time the light rain started, and even that relented whilst I went out to fry the crispy noodles (hot fat everywhere!) to go with our chow mein.
Disappointment of the day was that of Tim and Kate. It seems Cameron McNeish has been following them around with a TV camera and a dolly bird from the beeb, even at one point filming their feet. T + K have got used to this celebrity lifestyle and were devastated that Cameron had deserted them today, despite his promises.

There don't appear to be any midges or ticks here. Just a plague of slugs!

Next day: Day 9
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Saturday 17 May 2008 - TGO Challenge Day 9 - Plan - Ruigh-aiteachain to Geldie Lodge

Today’s report is here; the planned route and statistics are shown below:

1 Ruigh-aiteachain – Glen Feshie
2 Ruighe nan Leum
3 Path junction by waterfall
4 Carn an Fhidhleir
5 An Sgarsoch
6 Geldie Lodge
7 camp by Geldie Burn

Statistics
26 km
1300 metres ascent
11.0 hours

(2 Munros)

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Friday, 16 May 2008

Friday 16 May 2008 - TGO Challenge Day 8 - Plan - Newtonmore to Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy

Today’s report is here; the planned route and statistics are shown below:

1 Newtonmore – cycleway to Kingussie
2 Ruthven
3 approaching Tromie Bridge
4 path jnc
5 Baileguish
6 Turn to Glenfeshie Lodge
7 Ruigh-aiteachain Bothy (Glen Feshie) – wild camp here or beyond

Statistics
22 km
450 metres ascent
8.1 hours

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Thursday, 15 May 2008

Thursday 15 May - TGOC Day 7 - The Long Road East - Idyllic Camp to Newtonmore

Actual: 27km, 411 metres ascent
As planned, except for the extra 3 km (more like 2 km) left over from yesterday.
Time 7 hours 35 mins including 2 hours stops.
No of new Challengers seen: 0
No of Challengers seen who started from 3 different places: 1
No of other Challengers seen: 0


Apologies - the headings have been a day out of phase since Sunday - I hope that hasn't caused anything more than amusement! (Now corrected - Ed)

'They come in all shapes and sizes' said Linda as we left her carrot cake emporium after a fine lunch.

'There was one with a bare patch this big (expansive gesture) where the skin had come off, and another one that looked like a pumpkin, but they insisted on continuing until the doctor told the one with no skin to stop.'

Linda, owner of the Kiln Room Coffee Shop and Pottery Bunkhouse in Laggan, purveyor of the finest carrot cake Scotland produces, was telling us about some of the feet (attached to Challengers) that had recently passed through.

Even though we are going easily and well, Sue's feet have some heat rash today.
It was hot again; the path was mainly along tarmac lanes.
The secret of my own easy passage was crocs, which were just like wearing ventilated slippers for the full 27 km of today's stroll.

We had woken late on another windless, misty, high pressure day, to the avant garde symphony of an aviarian orchestra beside the bubbling infant Spey.

It was an easy stroll down to Garva Bridge and the start of today's gentle route. The skies cleared and cuckoos, rabbits, lapwings and house martins tracked our route. We sighted oyster catchers for the first time, which I recall from last year were noisily present, together with lapwings, all the way to the coast.


Chancing upon a nice man from Cumbria with a powerful telescope, we brewed up and swapped some CCS for magnificently magnified views of red-breasted mergansers and red-throated divers. There were also goldeneye and greylag geese and many more, but what we really wanted to see was something bigger.
Our excitement was momentary when the big bird appeared - but it was only a heron, not the desired osprey.

On we went, heading east down the long green lane, past banks of violets to reach the Kiln Room for lunch, featuring Coronation Chicken and Succulent Salmon, followed of course by two huge slices of the much vaunted carrot cake.

Then more stories from Linda - the bunkhouse has a hot tub - its customers feature many middle-aged deviants, from what we could gather.

Roadside forgetmenots, lady's smock, marsh marigolds, wood sorrel and surprisingly attractive sprouting bracken accompanied us along our route. Quite a contrast to yesterday's frogs and adders.
A ferret dashed across the road ahead of us and a buzzard mewed high above.

Phone reception had returned and messages from Heather T-S revealed that she was 'walking off' a visit to a distillery. She sounded happy!

But still no news from Weird Darren (WD).

A huge cairn commemorating the life of Ewan MacPherson of Cluny, a prominent figure in the '45 rising, came next. From here there was a good view back to Creag Meagaidh and 'The Window'.

'Touch Not a Cat But a Glove' is the curious (to me) MacPherson motto. Explanation?

Next we visited Markus, the Austrian who started in three places. He was asleep all on his own at the Glen Truim camp site.

He was in a bit of a state.
Someone (who shall remain nameless but who should know better) had told him that his visit to the summit of Corrieyairack Hill had been in vain as it was no longer a Corbett.
We consoled poor Markus and told him the truth about the hill where he had been - and the effect that good weather can have on Grumpy people at TGO Control.

At Glen Truim, courtesy of Markus Petter

Newtonmore camp site was reached around 4 pm. It's 7 pm now and we still haven't gained access to our food parcel, but we are washed and cleaned, have reported in to control, and are ready for 'town'.

We also have very good news from WD. He called to let us know that whilst they have had some problems (no doubt his own blog will present the graphic detail) he and Dawn are now this side of the Corrieyairack Pass, and heading for Laggan, where we had lunch.
They should catch us up at Braemar or earlier.

Now, about that Food Parcel?!!

Next day: Day 8
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Wednesday 14 May - TGOC Day 6 - Wonderful Vistas - Cheery Camp Site to River Spey

Actual: 26km, 1283 metres ascent
As planned, except for minor variation out of Fort Augustus, and we stopped at nice camping spot (see photo) 3 km short of Garva Bridge.
Time 9 hours 20 mins including 1 hour 55 mins stops.
No of new Challengers seen: 1
No of golden eagles: 1
No of idyllic camp sites: 1
No of ticks: 1 (Sue - easily removed)

My apologies for curtailing yesterday's entry - a night in the pub was to blame.

Now, enjoying a lovely evening by the River Spey, I can add a bit about Cougie that was intended for yesterday.

As we left Cougie yesterday morning, waved off by Val, the sadly recently widowed matriarch of a big family, we looked back to what appeared to be a small village, with residencies and chalets littering the area. We'd arrived the day before to see ponies in the fields, pigs in pens, rabbits in hutches, a rooster high in a tree next to the house, on the open front door of which a swallow was perched, watching a group of Challengers tuck into hard earned tea and biscuits. Birds pecked at plentiful food, cats cuddled and dogs wagged.
An armadillo lazed unseen in an airing cupboard.
These are all Val's family, together with her 8 children and many grandchildren, and she is proud to be expecting her 10th great grandchild! What a woman!

Anyone not up by 7.30 today would have been woken by Roy's Wonderful Whistling Kettle.
A kettle that doubles as a fire alarm!

The cloud was down as, leaving such noises behind, we left Fort Augustus accompanied by a heron, and hedgerows with bluebells, stitchwort, vetches, red campion, ramsons and plantains, to name but a few.

Heading up the Ancient Monument that is General Wade's Military Road, we passed a huge pink mansion and lots of pheasants and spent cartridges.

It was a dour trudge up the track to the Corrieyairack Pass, but the lingering mist kept us pleasantly cool.

We passed an unlikely positioned house with a green roof, then an unlikely positioned sign - no 8 - but there was no house.

After a welcome brew with stonechats we did reach a home. It was 11.15 and Mark Storey, Challenger 270, was having a lie in.

Some CCS got him going - fortuitously he was at a CCS distribution point!

Blogger on the Pass (not Mark Storey - he was still packing up)


The cloud now cleared to reveal a fabulous day with extensive views. The two Corbetts were well worth the climb and a soaring eagle completed the picture. (Not quite - there were some ugly construction works to the north.)


Views back along our route, south to Ben Nevis, and east to the edge of the Cairngorms - were wonderful.

Then a steep descent to Melgarve, where many TGOCers have recorded their passage over the last couple of days, and an early evening stroll to this idyllic spot with lots of deer in attendance (hope they haven't brought their ticks!).

Later, Tom and Gordon passed, followed by the camera shy Austrian, Markus.
Thanks Duncan (Aktoman) for your comments - much appreciated.
Congratulations to Notchy, who today managed to scale Ben More Assynt.
Commiserations to Heather T-S who is here but unable to join in, and very envious of us - it seems David Albon has been keeping her informed of our progress.

My excuse for ending now is a weak battery, and there is no signal here, so who knows when this will transmit.

Next day: Day 7
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