A Stroll from Furkelhütte

Trafoi, this morning, was humming with activity as the throaty purring engines of vintage cars participating in the Sud-Tirol Rally brought various admirers to the roadside as the old vehicles embarked on the classic ascent of the Stelvio Pass. Strange to see so many British sports cars with left hand drive and German plates.

For us, after admiring the machinery on display, a long 650 metre ascent on a chairlift (on which Sue blagged a ride as an OAP!) to sunny Furkelhütte for lattemacchiato (pictured). It was a temperate 25C in the shade at 2159 metres. What it was like lower down I hate to think (forecast 38C).

The sky was a hazy blue, with thin streaks of cloud and a stunning view of Ortler, and its crumbling glaciers.

We left the hut at 11.30 to ascend through a forest of black vanilla orchids in a luxuriant meadow, past a wartime 'pill box', before eschewing a broad path (#24) to a minor peak, in favour of the little used #25 to Passo di Vallazza, at 2742 metres.

At 2500 metres, an exciting moment. Our first sighting of Dark Stonecrop this trip!

We continued in silence, apart from the distant tinkle of cowbells and the caw of a raven, and our own voices, past innumerable marmot holes.

On reaching the pass just after 1pm we were greeted by a big view, with high cloud over Austria, whilst a thin sun beamed down on us.

It was a fine spot for an extended lunch, during which we spent a happy hour trying to identify lots of miniature alpine plants. With limited success.

A few drops of rain signaled the need to descend, past whistling marmots (at last we have seen some), bundles of caterpillars in the grass, and through verdant Alpine meadows on the anti-clockwise continuation of #25.

Back at the hut at 15.30 after a 7 km, 4 hour walk with 600 metres ascent, beers were most welcome.

Then it was back down the chairlift, a visit to the Stelvio National Park Visitor Centre, with its fine exhibition of owls, before returning to camp to battle with increasing dampness of the air and two recalcitrant gas stoves from which we are trying to drain the last dregs of fuel, for our final alfresco camping meal of the trip.

Not that we are coming home just yet...

Since we've been at Trafoi (1550 metres), six days now, the barometer has risen steadily from 849 to 854Mb. Stable weather, or what?! (Despite tonight's rain, which we are actually quite enjoying.)

[Shame on you, Alan! Blogging is never a 'pain', but sometimes Old Man Time sets up a bit of a 'challenge'. And we quite like those! Don't we? Even if it does finish up a bit garbled...?]

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The Upper Zaytal Lakes

I won't mention the weather, except that it's proving therapeutic for Sue, but it doesn't really facilitate a rest day. Some cloud suddenly appeared just now - it looked like a storm was coming.

The cloud has gone - just like that...

This morning we drove to Solda and enjoyed Walk 10 in Gillian's (previously described) book. Her description remains sound apart from - for your benefit, Gillian:

• At the start, after crossing the torrent in Solda, turn R down the tarmac road, then immediately L up a path; when you reach the main road, cross straight over, pass the Car Park for the hut, and join #5. (All the way to the Upper Zaytal Lakes.)

• The wooden bench at the first of the upper lakes was not evident to us, but there was an improvised stone bench. And, sadly, an empty bottle of wine which, to my eternal shame, I failed to remove.

• Paths 12 and 12A are permanently closed due to rock fall, so to reach Kanzel it's necessary to descend down #5 to its junction with #14, which is clearly signed to Kanzel along a broad path with fairly minimal ascent.

• Note that the Kanzel chairlift stops running at 16.50 hrs and costs €8 per person, one way. (It was worth it!)

Gillian reckons 6.5 hours for the whole walk, plus stops. We took just over that to reach Kanzel, our route being about 10km with around 1100 metres ascent. So Gillian's timings are fairly generous as we stopped a lot - flower IDs are getting harder and more time consuming - we seem to have 'bagged' the easy ones.

The views back to the Ortler summits were superb all day. The excursion to the Upper Zaytal Lakes (so eloquently described in the guide book that we couldn't miss it) was stunning. The above picture shows Sue here, at 2885 metres, about to dive in, with (I think) Vertainspitze behind.

Redstarts, Choughs and Sticky Primroses featured today, and Sue very much enjoyed her encounter with a German speaking artist at
Rifugio Serristori (aka Düsseldorfer Hütte) on the way down. Their Italian was of about the same standard; his watercolour was coming along nicely; the Schiewasser was downed in one.

Alan - Italians like to talk! There is rarely any problem with a phone signal! The problem is with finding the time to blog, especially with friendly Dutch and German neighbours on the campsite. (Hence tonight's rather garbled effort.)

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The Swifts of Trafoi

In many places on this trip we have noticed squealing swifts, especially around dusk, just as in our suburban street in Timperley.

The Swifts of Trafoi live in the eaves of the church, pictured here on this evening's 'constitutional'. (The sky is blue, BTW.)

Why would any swift in its right mind want to come to Timperley?

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A Sunny Day in the Alps

We have a fine view from a flowery meadow across to Ortler - 3905 metres.

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Peter and Vanessa's Day Out?

Ho hum, John, we have had to dodge the spraying hose pipes as we stroll into Trafoi for our evening constitutional! As you say, rain in Timperley will do no harm; you'll appreciate we did our best to encourage good weather by failing to arrange for our grass to be mown and employing Andrea and Thomas (bless them!) to keep our plants watered.

Today's postcard, Louise, places Sue above a 1000 metre precipice at Gaflaunboden, restrained by just a thin piece of Photoshop, looking up Val Venosta towards Passo di Resia and Austria, with the high summits of the Ötztal Alps in view. It was a breathtaking view. As usual, I was clutching a branch of the nearest tree, breathing deeply.

Peter and Vanessa (P+V) had described a five hour walk organised by their hotel in Solda. It sounded just the job for today, designated by Sue to be 'easier'.

We'd considered moving round to B&B accommodation in Solda, but this campsite is one of the best we've found, high and cool in the heatwave; Sue's neck is coping with the camping; and it's only a 15 minute drive to Solda.

So we tootled round to Rumwaldhof, where we thought P+V had said they started their walk, parking by an ex refreshment stall next to the burnt out ruin of said Rumwaldhof. We just needed to find a link to get us 100 metres up the hill and on to #6. After bumbling around for 30 minutes or so we gave up and headed off towards Solda.

After a few metres 'Waldruhe' was signposted up a road that we thought our map indicated wasn't open to cars. It was. We went up, rounded a few hairpins, and parked in a layby near the left turn down a lane to Gasthof Waldruhe, which must be where P+V started from. It was 11.15. Time for coffee. Luckily Gasthof Waldruhe was open, and the Grumpiness of its owner (Very) was matched by the excellence of his coffee (Very)!

And the lupins.

We were off to a good start on yet another warm, cloudless day.

#6 was a delight - through shady woods with occasional open views. 'Riposa nel Bosco' said the sign. We did just that - 'relax in the woods' - admiring the hundreds of One-flowered Wintergreen that flanked the path.

#6 led all the way to Vellnairalm, by way of woodland paths lined with Twin Flower and May Lilies, with larks flitting in the tree tops practicing their command performances. 1pm - time for lunch in the shade by this unmanned cabin with its cheeky black squirrel. Fine views across to the Ortler summits.

Just ten people had been seen thus far, and that would be about the tally for the day.

After a good break we headed up #3 (marked on our Kompass 1:50000 map no 72 as #3A), towards Gaflaunboden. I don't think we made it. We reached the fabulous viewpoint from where today's picture was taken, shortly after which the path doubled back uphill before descending into woods. I reckoned we were still about 150 metres below Gaflaunboden, so we retraced our steps and headed directly up from some cairns, towards a substantial avalanche fence. There was little sign of any path, but by contouring at the designated height (2330 metres) we reached an obvious but unmarked path leading in the right direction. So we followed it. Very successfully. No waymarks, just a mainly grassy path which occasionally dissolved into lawns of Forget-me-nots or other flowers before being regained at the end of the flower bed. Nor is the path numbered on our map - perhaps that means it's not waymarked.

A trough and spring in a remote spot at 2345 metres, reached at 3pm, made me think that the path was used by more shepherds than tourists.

The undulating belvedere took us all the way, with just a few metres of exposure that led me to conclude that this was not P+V's route, to the shepherd's cabin at Stieralm. On the way we'd seen two fine specimens of Red Deer (Cervo), a stag and a doe - careering down the mountainside.

Here at Stieralm we regained P+V's route, which I reckon probably took a lower traverse, possibly via the woodland path we had rejected.

Kälberhütte was our next target, via a 50 metre ascent and a pleasant grassy lane on #18 or #19 depending on where you look (fab views south and west to the Ortler summits), with a final 400 metre descent through woods on #24 to join a track just above Gasthof Waldruhe.

So much for our 5 hour stroll. It was 5.30, some 7.5 hours since we'd started walking at Rumwaldhof, and our walk from Waldruhe - 13km with 800 metres ascent - had taken a good 6 hours.

But we still had plenty of time to acquire, cook and consume another lovely alfresco meal (it's simply not the weather for eating indoors), whilst watching bits of glacier fall off the mountains that loom high above us, before the remainder turned pink under another lovely sunset.

Our Dutch neighbours are to attempt P+V's walk tomorrow, based on our description. I wonder how they'll get on?

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A Perfect Day in the Alps

After yesterday's chatty 13km excursion in good company, with only about 100 metres ascent, taking around 4.5 hours, today we woke to 12C coolness under a clear blue sky, in the knowledge that today's less frequented route would probably neither have been 'cleared' by the two men with rakes we had seen on #20, nor adorned with the sort of information boards that have sprung up at frequent intervals on that fine belvedere route.

Those brand new information boards are in fact the main change from Gillian's description of her walk number 9. They cover a range of topics, from the construction of the Stelvio Pass in 1820 to its wartime use, and the flora and flora of the area, even extending to an explanation about how the expulsion of the contents of rabbits' intestines serves to fertilise the land and benefits the flora. All very 'German'? though the information boards were in both German and Italian, with English only appearing at the Furkelhütte. Perhaps English speakers are expected just to get the chair lift up there and walk down #17?

Anyway, today we set off on a perfectly clear, warm morning, down a lane to the south, to Drei Brunnen. Path 15 took us past an ornate chapel then up through shady pine woods to Rifugio Borletti, at 2188 metres, some 600 odd metres above camp.

We took our time. A few old dears passed us. The distant roar of cars as they grunted their way up the Stelvio Pass slowly diminished. The flower book was out. Wintergreens, Garland Flower and Cowberry were highlights. Common Spotted Orchid was lush and abundant. We stopped frequently and relished new 'spots'.

Yes, we seem to be bagging flowers!

As we emerged from the woods and approached the hut, Spring Gentians dominated the path's verges.

Schiewasser, Fanta and an unpronounceable soup were most welcome after our leisurely two and a half hour ascent. Most people turn round here, but we continued on up #18 towards Tabaretta. Only two people followed us - by coincidence the Slovenian couple in the next tent. A second lunch occupied a delightful half hour with stunning views and Shrubby Milkwort and Rock Speedwell in attendance. Sue is pictured near here, with Rif Borletti in the background. You may also make out the zigzags of the Stelvio Pass behind. The route of the Meranoweg path can also be seen.

A final ascent brought us to the flat summit of Pic Tabaretta - at 2538 metres, our high point of the day. It was a lovely flat meadowy summit with stunning views; an idyllic camping spot in good weather like this.

We reluctantly moved on. Whilst the Slovenians headed up to Rifugio Payer, we contoured along #18A towards the derelict remains of the Alpenrosehütte. This was the trickiest path of the day, featuring a short traverse behind a steep bergschrund towards a flock of sheep seeking shade from the relentless sunshine.

The temperature in the open rose to a hot 27C as we descended, as if into a cauldron, to 2000 metres; but then #18 entered the tree line. It was cooler under the canopy, with a lovely aroma of fresh pine. The afternoon was beautiful, with a cloudless sky and no sign of haze despite the continuing hot weather.

On the approach to Trafoi a forest path (#3) led left to cross the river by a footbridge before rising to deliver us efficiently at the campsite.

Today's route is mentioned in Gillian Price's book as the descent to Trafoi in Route 11, with our ascent being mentioned by Gillian as an alternative descent. The paths were well maintained and are probably more heavily used than when Gillian wrote her guide.

The campsite shop saw to all our needs - brew, beer, alfresco supper - before we ambled down to the village, which seems to be a refuge for Opel vehicles on test, and admired the Alpenglow as the sun lingered late on the Ortler peaks. Those staying in high mountain huts will have had an evening to remember.

But we are also content. A fine walk (10km, 1100 metres ascent, 7.5 hours) with stunning views in perfect weather with the one you love. Who could ask for more?

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Walk Number 9, with Vanessa and Peter

Hanging high above our campsite at Trafoi are numerous glaciers cascading from the high summits above the Trafoier Tal. The most familiar name to most readers may be 'Ortler' a peak of 3905 metres that tops this particular range, but that is out of our view from the campsite.

This is definitely nothing like North Yorkshire!

Gillian Price, in her Cicerone guide 'Walking in the Central Italian Alps', reckons 'Walk 9' in her book is 'a brilliant way to start a walking holiday in the area'. It involves getting a bus up the 48 hairpins of the Stelvio Pass (Stilfser Joch), then walking back to Trafoi, initially along #20 to Furkelhütte, then down #17 to complete the 1300 metre descent.

We knew the bus times. We thought we could catch the 9.12 at the road junction leading to the campsite.

"The bus stop is in the village" said the campsite man, so we rushed to the village. Five minutes to spare, but where was the bus stop? Sue enquired as to the location of the stop, in her best Italian, of a couple lurking as if in a bus catching stance.

"Inglese!" they responded, not understanding a word. That was how we met Peter and Vanessa, who assured us that Gillian's walk number 9 was excellent, and that when they last did it two years ago the bus stopped here. It didn't. The driver, obviously not an Italian (who would surely have stopped), drove past the large stopping area, pointing back down the street to where the bus stop must be.

After much cursing, a plan was hatched. Instead of waiting for the 11.12 bus, the four of us would go to the top of the pass in Vanessa and Peter's car, walk down the planned route, then return in our car later.

It worked. Peter donned his Stirling Moss helmet and we beat the bus to the 2757 metre pass, with only an occasional whimper from Vanessa. Nice driving, Peter, I think you always wanted to do that!

Gillian will be pleased to know that her route description has stood the test of time pretty well.

After passing Rifugio Garibaldi, shortly after starting the walk, there was a tempting path up to the 3026 metre summit of Rötlspitze, but the consensus was to give that a miss, despite the good weather, though it was a bit cloudy and cool at the time, with rain visible to the north.

So we continued on amiably, in the company of 'heard but not seen' marmots and a sprinkling of tourists, along #20. There was just a little snow to contend with - probably a lot less than a week ago! Vanessa was not impressed, but in the event she skipped happily across the soggy obstacles in her brand new PINK Karrimor boots. What would Mike P think of that, I wondered?

Some fine views back to the pass (pictured) were marred only by a little cloud on the tops and overhead.

Furklehütte was reached, conveniently, at about 1pm, after three hours of gentle downhill traversing past a wide range of high mountain flora, dominated in the upper reaches by Glacier Crowfoot and descending past a range of Gentians, Orchids and Houseleeks, to name but a few.

After lunch at the hütte we entered woodland and ski pistes for the final steep descent to Trafoi and a welcome brew at the campsite, before returning up 46 'tournantes' from the campsite to rescue Vanessa's car.

Our new friends then deserted us in favour of their sumptuous hotel in Solda with never ending supplies of food, leaving us to purchase supper from the campsite store. We spent €6; it was delicious.

It's cooler and clearer tonight after another fine, warm day. 'Warm' rather than 'Hot' up here at 1500 metres. We are being entertained by Nutcrackers in the fir trees.

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A Trip to Parco dello Stelvio

We slept well again at the Azzurro campsite, which considering its lakeside location was surprisingly free from insects of either the flying or the crawling variety. The weekenders having returned home - this morning many pitches were occupied by caravans and tents (usually both) with shutters and awnings drawn until next Friday, when their owners will no doubt return from the city - the place was quiet. Just a few retired folk remain, and a few Dutch and German tourists - the poor minority who can't afford to rent villas!.

Another storm, around midnight, lit the sky and cleared the air, forcing us to close our doors and encouraging a slow start after allowing the sun to dry off the tent - we never know when next it'll be used.

The short drive to Riva, a pretty town at the head of Lago di Garda, saw us back in sticky 35C heat. That didn't really spoil our visit, as we gently wandered around, in the knowledge that we would be returning here on a less sultry occasion, if not on this trip.

Today's picture was taken from the top of Riva's Torre Apponale, a C13 tower with fine views over the hazy lake, and across colourful rooftops to enticing mountains.

After a delightful alfresco lunch in an arboretum in nearby Arco, we commenced phase three of this holiday (phase 1 = cities, phase 2 = Lago di Garda area) and headed through those mountains, up to the Stelvio National Park, where we are camped (yes, we decided to use the tent) in a delightful spot just outside the village of Trafoi. We are up at about 1550 metres where the air is cooler. Long trousers and fleeces may come out later, and sleeping bags will be used in anger for the first time this trip.

The campsite is far enough from the main road for the bird song to happily drown out any roaring of combustion engines as cars and bikes start their 1200 metre ascent to the top of the Stelvio Pass, which, if my memory serves me, featured in a 'Top Gear' escapade.

There are lots of nutcrackers, but I can't work out what is singing so tunefully - larks or maybe just blackbirds. It's lovely.

We are pleased to hear that Dot is enjoying our broadcasts and that they are bringing back happy memories to that particular well travelled member of our audience.

However, we know most readers won't have visited this part of the world. It's a fine area, even in a heat wave.

Jamie - you should come if you haven't been before! You could get someone to deputise for you at the Altrincham Festival, just like we did. Thanks for that go to 'Stay At Home Hazel With The Huge Wallet' - we are sure she did us proud at the Festival whilst her crazy husband was bagging 11 Munros in a weekend. So that's the South Glen Shiel Ridge done then?

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A Walk in the Woods

The noise from last night's Saturday night disco at Pieve di Ledro was most effectively drowned (if you'll excuse the pun) by the torrential rain that arrived shortly after we had enjoyed our picnic by Lago di Ledro under darkening skies. The rain followed a fine display of sheet lightning, and 'around sound' thunder that would have done Ginger Baker proud.

Suffice to say - we slept well in the TN Hyperspace, which is without doubt the smallest tent on the site.

Our day started as always on this trip. Slowly. This is a leisurely break, with the health of Sue's neck a primary concern. The neck has been a bit better of late, and setbacks aren't welcome, hence the short walks and frequent B&B accommodation.

We finally set off at 10.30, flower guide in hand, under another clear blue sky, up the steep surfaced track to San Martino chapel. It was hot again. Some mountain bikers ground slowly past, traveling only marginally faster than us. A few other hikers passed by as we sat in the roadway feverishly trying to identify different Broomrapes and Orchids. Succulent strawberries (Sue says ours are nicer than yours, Mark!) lined our route, giving rise to further delay.

Eventually, long after joining a delightful woodland path (#456), the chapel appeared, on a small promontory. Unusually, it was a bit unkempt and decrepit - hopefully a bit of TLC will soon sort it out though.

The following wooded belvedere along #456 at around 1300 metres was an absolute delight. Reasonably not too hot (cool it was not) above steep drops through the woods, with occasional views to Lago di Ledro and Lago di Garda in the distance. Still hazy, but last night's rain had certainly cleared the air a little.

The path was being used by brave mountain bikers. We stepped aside and were always thanked for our trouble. Cyclists and walkers coexist quite happily on these paths.

Sue saw a large adder - it probably wouldn't appreciate being run over by a mountain bike.

An eagle soared high (very high) above us.

We enjoyed the welcome shade afforded by the trees.

By and by we reached Malga Giu, a junction from where we could have continued to Tremalzo in a couple of hours. But we headed down #419 and then took a side track to the Santa Anna chapel, which has recently been lovingly restored as a shrine to Paolo Arnoldi (5 June 1990 - 26 September 2009). Very sad.

After that we thought it would be downhill all the way. It was down Val Scaglia. Landslides appear to have terrorized this valley since the 1930s, and much pride has been taken in recent, not inconsiderable, efforts to stabilize the area. They seem to be working.

After the steep, gravelly descent of Val Scaglia, during which we met a man hiking in just swimming trunks and trail shoes (we are in a heat wave, after all) the gentle tarmac of Pian di Pur was most welcome. Sunday afternoon picnics and barbecues were in full swing.

The 100 metre ascent up what we expected to be a lakeside road was less welcome, and by the time we reached camp at 6pm we'd clocked up 14km and about 900 metres ascent in around 7.5 hours, including many 'flower stops'.

We carry no food stocks - subject to one notable exception our itinerary and catering is never planned more than a couple of hours ahead. So whilst I brewed up, Sue went off to buy dinner. She soon returned. The supermarket that had been open last night and this morning was shut. It's Sunday.

The pizzas at Pizzeria Al Lago were excellent...

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A Peak and a Pass

After a comfy night, a filling breakfast, and another stroll around the interesting medieval town with huge slabs of Bagoss cheese on display, we headed on towards Lago di Ledro, which at 650 metres held hope for an acceptably not too hot night in the tent.

Bagolino is not a tourist hot spot. It doesn't feature in the Rough Guide to Italy. Perhaps we should attribute this to the richness of Italy's heritage rather than the inadequacy of the Rough Guide. There was one other guest at our hotel; the other hotel looked empty, but the place was vibrant with people going about their daily business. Just the sort of town it's nice to visit.

Our route took us back down to Lago d'Idro then up the Valle d'Ampola. A right turn led steeply up past hordes of road and (mainly) mountain bikers to a car park at 1690 metres a little beyond the small settlement of Tremalzo.

It was hot, but not unbearable. A stroll of little more than 1km took us to the 1973 metre summit of Monte Tremalzo, past meadows lush with orchids and a plethora of other Alpine species, many different from yesterday's sightings due to the higher elevation.

One particular plant had us puzzled - a small white 'orchid' or so we thought. We encountered just two people on the walk - and they chose this moment to pass by - a Gertalian couple armed with a weighty tome - 'Flora Helvetica'. They repeated Gillian's explanation about some of this area, dominated by Monte Baldo, having been above the glaciers in the last ice age, as a result of which some ancient species survived that period. One of those species is 'Monte Baldo - Segge' or Monte Baldo Sedge (Charetsch baldens), a grass rather than an orchid. Very pretty! Not in our reference book.

Having gained a peak, albeit with limited views due to the ever present heat haze, we returned the same way, enjoyed a lunch break during which a serenading acrobatic lark entertained us from the top of a tree, and then wandered 1.5km in the other direction to Passo del Dil, for more hazy views.

Our stats for the day: 5km, 500 metres ascent, 3 hours. Very relaxing for us, but not for the mountain bikers, who were slogging relentlessly upwards and on into the mountains. I can't say I wasn't jealous though!

Down at the acceptably warm but not too hot 'Camping Azzurro' by Lago di Ledro (back amongst lots of tourists) Sue heard English voices in the supermarket, but as I type those voices are silent. Surprised Germans sit bemused in their TV equipped motor homes and Italian children gasp "non è possibile" as Germany quash Argentina in the football World Cup.

We will enjoy a beer - 'happy hour' has just commenced - before heading to the lake shore for an alfresco dinner - salad, I suspect.

Today's image shows Sue in a typical pose with an orchid - scrutiny of the flower book will take place later, but don't expect a long list like yesterday's. We are saving that, in a different format, for when we next see Gillian.

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Hazy Mountains and a Floral Bonanza

Readers may have noticed the glut of strawberries and today's floral delights. We have enjoyed a day in the mountains, which have been engulfed in a heat haze that gives rise to occasional claps of thunder but no rain. Yet!

It was a sweaty day even up high, but judging by incoming messages it's 'orange code alarm' in Venice(does that mean risk of imminent spontaneous combustion?), and somewhat breezy in Durness (so Orkney will be blown just a little further off-shore?). We are glad we aren't there. In fact the hot weather is topping the news bulletins here, so it must be an issue.

Nevertheless, most tourists seem to have stayed low. We saw none on our five hour stroll, and there were no other tourists either at last night's rifugio or at tonight's hotel. In fact, the medieval town of Bagolino, where we are billeted in the comfortable Al Tempo Perduto hotel, appears to be a tourist free zone. We have seen a few of the ubiquitous German bikers on the way here, but that's all by way of tourists.

This morning Marisa provided an excellent breakfast that more or less eliminated the need for lunch (a few muesli bars were sufficient), and we set off on our five hour jaunt, mainly through shady woodland.

Our 13 km route (with about 700 metres ascent) passed through the pretty villages of Moerna (pictured), Turano and Armo before heading along a perfectly formed woodland track to Ponte Franato and then traversing back to Persone. It was similar in topography to the final stages of Alta Via 2, so far as I can recall that trip from the depths of my memory bank.

We had hoped for lunch in the restaurant at Armo, but it was closed, so we made do with ice creams back at Persone, where we disturbed Marisa from her siesta. Earlier she had charged us just €81 for B&B, evening meal and drinks, etc, which we considered most reasonable.

It was hot; though the flowers weren't wilting the crows were cawing and the buzzards were mewing. Blackbirds were rummaging in the undergrowth, lizards were basking, and I think I saw a shrike atop a post in Moerna.

We had planned to camp by Lago d'Idro, at around 300 metres, but by the time the deserted switchback road had delivered us to that pleasant location we had re-entered a zone of stifling heat in the low 30's. So we abandoned that plan and came up to this small town at around 700 metres. It's still hot, but bearable.

There's a huge church high above the medieval houses and narrow, sometimes covered, streets, with the inevitable swifts swooping around it in their hundreds. I'm surprised there's an airborne insect left!

There appears to be an excellent selection of shops to cater for the needs of residents, including a horse butcher. The network of narrow cobbled streets passes at times under the houses.

Small cars are required by the residents of Bagolino!

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Devil's Claw (Physoplexis comosa)

On today's stroll from Persone, we hardly expected to find such superb specimens of this iconic flower, on a random slab of rock in the woods at around 1100 metres.

We usually see it much higher, on Dolomitic limestone. Today's walk was mainly in woodland, in the 600 to 1100 metre range. The plant life was wonderful, with the following species also in evidence, even to our untrained eyes:

Corn Cockle (or was it a Cranesbill or Storksbill?)
Bladder Campion
Red Campion
Fringed Pink
Buttercups (various)
Common Columbine
Yellow Corydalis
Common Poppy
Biting Stonecrop
Bramble
Goatsbeard Spirea
Field Rose
Dog Rose
Golden Cinquefoil
Wild Strawberry
Vetches and Clovers (various)
Birdsfoot Trefoil
Meadow Cranesbill
Herb Robert
Cypress Spurge
Common Rockrose
Violets and Pansies (various)
Great Masterwort
Numerous unidentified Umbellifers
Sowbread (Cyclamen - in large quantities)
Viper's Bugloss
Field Forget-me-not (Myosotis ramosissima var.)
Various Labiates including Meadow Clary, Ground Ivy and Dragonmouth
Dark Mullein
Common Cow-wheat
Common Eyebright
Yellow Rattle
Broomrape (unidentified variety)
Common Honeysuckle
Black Rampion
Spreading Bellflower
Creeping Bellflower
Harebell
Fairy's Thimble
Wood Scabious
Ox-eye Daisy
Leopardsbane (? variety)
Thistles and Knapweeds (various)
Orange Lily (lots)
Various orchids - to be listed later
Common Nettle!
Greater Stitchwort
Several Bedstraws
Several Plantains

This list is neither exhaustive nor probably correct, it's just a list of the obvious species that we think we noticed as we passed by.

Quite enough for now!

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Yummy!

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Run From The Sun

It's 6.30pm and I've just accidentally deleted the posting I started at 5.30. I'm sure most bloggers experience that sinking feeling from time to time.

Anyway, we've headed away from the mid 30's of Lago di Garda, into the mountains where there is no phone signal but the thermometer is sitting comfortably in the low 20's C.

We started the day at the characterful campsite in Verona, where we had avoided the plague of ants suffered by some of our compatriots (from Timperley - it's a small world!), and we hadn't noticed the rat in the vine trellis above the tents.

We managed to bumble our way through the atrocious Italian traffic with its atrociously poor drivers, to the small town of Sirmione which occupies a 4km promontory of land that juts out from the southern shore of Lago di Garda.

Some had advised us to steer clear of this tourist hot spot, others had highly recommended a visit. We accepted the latter advice, ignored the 'tat', and enjoyed visits to the two main attractions.

The Scaligeran fortress at the entrance to the town dates from around 1277. It's in good condition despite having had a colourful life. Today's 'invaders' were hundreds of screeching swifts, using gaps in the structure for their nests. The first picture shows the view from the main tower.

The Roman Villa at the head of the promontory is a much more impressive structure, though not as well preserved as the fortress. Constructed over a 200 year period between the first centuries BC and AD, it occupies an area of 167 x 105 metres. Meticulous restoration, and an informative museum, are of a very high standard, with useful information boards telling you exactly where you are and what the villa may have looked like in its heyday.

Some of the remains of the villa are pictured below.

But it was hot; a cool breeze was needed.

That's why, after lunching in the shade by the ancient San Pietro church, we headed in increasingly sweaty gloom with great booms of thunder, up the mountainside from the picturesque village of Gargnano, in a bid to escape from the heat and humidity.

It worked. Turano, our first port of call, had a bank, post office, alimentari, town hall and church, but exhibited no evidence of either inhabitants or places of rest for overheated wayfarers.

So we moved on to the smaller village of Persone, which makes a point of welcoming strangers despite having none of the above facilities except a church. But it did have two old men on a bench who helpfully directed us to a bar. (Maybe they were called Alan and Phil!) Literally 20 seconds later we were installed in a brand new double room with a working shaver light in Rifugio Monte Cingla, which is part of the Antica Osteria Pace restaurant - and the bar to which we were directed. We are up at 900 metres here, so it's pleasantly cool.

Later...

The restaurant has no menu - it's a Posto Tappa sort of place but we are B&B, not half board, so have no idea how much our meal has just cost. We suspect it will be good value. For the first time this trip we have not been asked for passports - everything is on trust. Home made ravioli followed by pork (wild boar?) cutlets and salad, etc, has been washed down with some excellent house wine.

A wander around the small village, cool after some rain, has revealed a very pleasant and scenic place, it's one of a number of 'small but perfectly formed' villages in the Upper Garda Bresciano Park, which was only formed in 1989.

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Sightseeing in Verona

A hot day in Verona. Sights to be seen. The Verona Card Day Pass - €10 for 13 attractions was the way to do it.

The highlight, perhaps, was the Torre dei Lamberti, reached by an energy sapping climb up 368 steps. Today's picture was taken from the route up this 84 metre tower. On the left is Complesso del Duomo (Cathedral) and on the right is the beautiful Chiesa di Santa Anastasia. Both on our day pass itinerary.

We also visited the Arena, where opera sets were busily being assembled, Teatro Romana - situated just below the camp site - where they were setting up for tonight's jazz concert, and the fascinating Museo di Castelvecchio, with its wide range of historic religious art, architecture and artifacts.

In between all this, refreshments at friendly bars and lunch at an obscure sandwich shop amongst suited business people and other workmen of Verona - not a tourist to be seen.

The wine at this camp site is excellent, at all of €4 a bottle, so we'll shortly be enjoying more of that whilst admiring the shrieking swifts as they harvest the skies before dusk (just as they do in Timperley). Unlike in Timperley, we may also admire the glow worms that abound hereabouts.

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Verona

From by the Camp Site - 8pm on 29 June. 26`C.

There's a Beer down there!

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Castelfranco

These battlemented brick walls were thrown around the town by the Trevisans in 1199 to protect it against the Paduans.

The walls are remarkably well preserved.

We called in today on our short journey to Verona, where we are now happily installed on the camp site that enjoys fine views of the city.*

Lunch was taken in the shade of the equally impressive walls of Cittadella, inconveniently closed to tourists on Tuesdays.

All that after breakfast outside a café near Hotel Scala in Treviso, which itself was good value, with an excellent pizzeria across the road and a supermarket next door.

A trip to Decathlon completed the day's activities. Now Sue has a comfy armchair in which to enjoy the camping element of this trip.

*We habitually use Rough Guides on these trips. We are pretty disgusted with the fact that the guide to the Italian Lakes fails to mention the camp site amongst its 21 pages on Verona, despite having room to extol the virtues of an assortment of pricey hotels. 'Rough Guide' - I think not!

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Monday Mornings

In days gone by, the hour's commute into Manchester on Monday Mornings wasn't always a welcome prospect, though on balance I did enjoy my many years at the 'coal face'.

Sue has been learning Italian, and whilst Amedea's tuition in Northern Moor has proved excellent, a touch of the real thing was prescribed.

So, after receiving commentary yesterday from a Jet2 pilot on an English sporting calamity (he should have chosen the cricket!), we found ourselves spending Monday Morning here in Italy. The sun is shining on what can definitely be described as a 'Blue Sky Day'.

Certain trials and tribulations (phone upgrade - finally got the e-mail to work, just in time; TGO Challenge photos - failed to finish 'processing' them; Sue's tax return - failed for the most unexpected of reasons) have been left behind, and we've spent a most comfortable night at Hotel Scala in Treviso.

Sue's Italian has already been put to the test, and she has passed with flying colours.

Tonight we are dining with an Australian.

Hmmm...

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Thursday 24 June 2010 – The Cheshire Ring

I was about to commit myself to a trip involving quite a bit of time on a saddle.

‘Better check that I stand a chance of doing it’, I thought.

So on Thursday morning I rose early and embarked on a little bike ride.  This is a very brief report, due to time constraints, but there’s a link to a pictorial journey at the end of the posting.

Anyway, early morning beside the Bridgewater Canal was the province of wood pigeons, foxes and herons… and this lone cyclist who surprised a dog walker in Lymm.

About every three miles I encountered a pair of swans, only 50% of them with young.  Deeper into Cheshire a pair with eight youngsters steadfastly tried to block my way down the towpath.  There was no way round.  They were intimidating.  I managed to use the bike as protection, keeping it at arms length and quickly passing the hissing birds.

At home the towpath is quite smooth and easy in dry conditions.  In deeper Cheshire it becomes very bumpy and grassy.  Very much an ‘off-road’ experience.  Well, virtually my entire route was off-road, though I don’t believe Anquet’s calculation of 1500 metres ascent to be correct.  There may have been 92 locks, but assuming half of them were downhill, that would give an average height gain per lock of over 30 metres!  And the hills over the tunnels weren’t that high either.

Nevertheless, ‘off-road’ is off-road, and the day’s hazards included deep grass, wet grass (it rained for an hour), paths imbued with thousands of tree roots, and numerous ‘anti-bike’ gates, all of which slowed progress.  I only noticed one ‘No Cycling’ sign (in Marple Bridge), and perhaps some of the gates are there to discourage motor bikes rather than cyclists.  Anyway, I soldiered courteously on along the towpath with no complaints at all, all the way to Piccadilly in Manchester, where work on the canal resulted in a diversion down Whitworth Street to rejoin the canal system in Castlefield.  Or did I simply lose my way – it has all gone a bit hazy!

As an aside (Jamie may be interested) the towpath between Castlefield and Altrincham is very easy – it would take about an hour to commute to town from Altrincham, which is about how long it used to take me by car, though the tram is somewhat quicker.

Conditions were relatively benign – cloudy, only occasionally hot and sunny (not good), light winds (why do they always seem to be headwinds?), not much rain, dry paths (apart from in the rain), minimal route finding difficulties (I got misplaced twice going around tunnels, and became confused at other times!), pleasant waterways lined with wild flowers and chirpy birds, etc, etc.  Not forgetting the thorns that delayed my progress for over thirty minutes just after lunch at the appropriately named ‘Fool’s Nook’.

I’d estimated a pace of about 8 mph.  That would have meant 13 hours 20 minutes.  I’m usually pretty conservative with such estimates, and I normally cycle at around 12 mph on our local towpaths.  In the event I probably spent that amount of time in the saddle.  It gave me a sore bum.  So it’s not surprising that after taking a few voluntary (lunch, chats with cruisers, walkers and other cyclists, etc) and involuntary (puncture repairs) stops, it took me just over 15 hours to complete the whole enterprise.

Still, I was back at home well before dark, and in time for dinner, with plenty of energy in my legs and no pain from my back and shoulders (I was worried about that).  The sore bum is now better and the only lasting after-effect is two numb fingers caused by frequent use of the very stiff gear change on the old bike.  You may think canal towpaths are flat, but this trip required a phenomenal amount of gear changing!

Later, I committed to the trip referred to in my opening sentence, by purchasing the tickets to get there.  Did I pass my self-imposed test?  I think so, Markus.

There’s more about the Cheshire Ring canal route here.

My pictorial journey (47 images) is here.

And here’s a map for those not interested in the pictures:

Tuesday 22 June 2010 – Whitbarrow East and Lord’s Seat

A beautiful summer’s evening drew us to this spot for the third time for our traditional mid-summer’s evening walk.  It used to feature Coniston Old Man, but old age and infirmity has seen us slump in recent years to lower heights.  Having said that, it’s five years since we last enjoyed this route.

Sue and I left home in plenty of time to reach the turn off shortly after Levens before 7pm.  We enjoyed a luxurious picnic as a squad of mountain bikers arrived, donned what can only really be described as suits of armour, then set off gently down the road.

As is normal this summer, we enjoyed an exclusive evening stroll, starting at Raven’s Lodge, from where the Lyth Valley was bathed in sunshine from the cool shade of our tree-lined path.

At Rawsons, we were spied upon eerily from a dark building.

These woods always seem to be bustling with activity at this time of day.  We watched a young badger rummaging in the undergrowth, whilst a woodpecker tapped furiously in a tree high above us.

It’s an excellent time of year for wild flowers, and we spotted what we think is an Early Marsh Orchid, flourishing in the damp ground.

After quite a while spent on pleasantly shady woodland paths on a warm evening, we emerged eventually onto sunlit Whitbarrow Scar, to see the posse of mountain bikers pass along our near horizon on their way to Lord’s Seat (all of which appear as small dots on the horizon below).

We don’t have any problem with these bikers, even if there may not be a legitimate bridleway across here.  There was nobody else around, the ground was firm, and there was no evidence at all of their passage.

They had moved on by the time Sue and I reached Lord’s Seat, where there’s a faded plaque in honour of Canon GAK Hervey (1893-1967), founder of the Lake District Naturalists Trust (this link is the closest I could get to what the Trust has now evolved into – but further research may reveal more).  There are stunning views across lakeland from here, with the Coniston hills prominent and the Langdales just a bit more distant.

Our traverse of the Scar continued amiably over the crusty limestone pavement, with views to nearby Arnside, fronted by its long railway viaduct and the Kent Estuary.

The sun was slowly dropping behind the mountain horizon, and we lingered at the cairn at 198 metres to appreciate the view.

Then it was a pleasant descent over limestone then through woodland to the huge bedding plane of the old quarry floor at White Scar.  We always think this would be a fine venue for an outdoor concert, but the local wildlife may disagree.

The walk is about 9 km, with 300 metres of ascent, and takes about 2.5 hours.  An excellent summer’s evening or afternoon (or even morning) stroll.

Some route details for this fine outing, prepared several years ago, are here.

Enjoy!