Saturday 10 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 57 - Amélie-les-Bains

Weather: sunny and hot

Last night was spent most enjoyably with a 'blast from the past', David, and his wife Jan. 

You may recall that the first week of our trip was spent walking in the rain with David and his pal John. 

Last night David and Jan kindly accepted an invitation to join me for dinner, and they even more kindly relieved me of a box of camping gear. 

It felt deceptively light. I'm sure that it must have been more than the two kilos that David thought he was taking home. He is of course now committed to meeting me in Banyuls in a few days time in order to repatriate said box. 

Anyway, we had a most pleasurable evening and I'm pleased to report that David's poorly foot that, combined with the snow conditions on GR10, resulted in an early bath for him and John, is now better. 

I wonder whether they will continue the adventure next year?

This morning was spent exploring the environs of Amélie. Then Nathalie provided an excellent lunch at the campsite, and this afternoon my remaining items of clothing have been thoroughly washed and I've enjoyed watching another Mo Farah triumph.

Dinner at Hotel le Regina's good restaurant will follow.  Nathalie will join me, so this off-route rest day will be rather more sociable than expected. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (19)

Globeflowers have, together with Marsh Marigolds, graced places damp with gently running water for the entire crossing of the Pyrenees. 

English Irises however were only seen on a short section between El Serrat and Refuge du Rulhe. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - department of botany

Occasional Pyrenean Tractors (5)

More a tractor unit than a tractor, but I was getting desperate. 

This one was parked outside the Mines de Batère gîte.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Friday 9 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 56 - Stage 47 (part) - Mines de Batère to Amélie-les-Bains

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 868 km)     

Ascent: 100 metres (Cum: 48,230 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.0 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny and warm

A short morning descending to Arles-sur-Tech behind Uli and Peter. The woodland paths were a delight, so I didn't rush. Unlike in 2004, there was no storm on the horizon. 

Extensive views to Perpignan and the Mediterranean had disappeared after yesterday's final col, leaving us today with pleasant but more limited vistas to the Tech valley and to our route ahead. 

Pine woods are now the main feature of the landscape, as you can see from the picture taken on the descent to Arles.

The path was also marked as a mountain bike trail, in places very challenging as such. I for one would be walking sections if going downhill, and I'd certainly be pushing uphill. The dragonflies could be a problem, they are huge around here and I don't envy the cyclist who gets one of them in his eye, or stuck up a nostril. 

After snacking by the river, the boys headed off up towards the Moulin de la Palette gite whilst I pottered along the riverside path in the company of a community of Jays and Martins for the 4km to Amélie. 

It was warm. So the beer, anchovy salad and a plate of chips at Au Poivre Vert went down very well. A waiter from Florida quizzed me about the walk. "I think I'll do it in October" he informed me. "I don't think so! " I replied. He must be a fairly recent arrival in these parts. "I've run lots of marathons" he added, justifying his ability to walk GR10. We agreed a compromise would be sensible, and he now hopes to start his Pyrenean walking adventures with a stroll up Pic du Canigou on a fine day.

Hotel 'le Regina' is on the main street. Sue had kindly booked me in for a couple of nights, and Danièle has been most welcoming, especially after a long conversation during which she eventually understood the reason for my asking for a cardboard box. I suspect it's not a common request! 

So now I'm waiting for my clothes - all freshly washed - to dry before my next foray. There will be plenty of time tomorrow to write about that, as it's my first full rest day since Seix, several weeks ago, and a final pause before the last short lap of my journey to Banyuls. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Thursday 8 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 55 - Stage 45 and 46 (variant over Pic du Canigou - Refuge de Mariailles to Mines de Batère

Distance: 33 km (Cum: 851 km)     

Ascent: 1370 metres (Cum: 48,130 metres)
                     
Time taken: 9.5 hrs including 2.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: cloud above about 2300 metres at first, sunny afternoon

A really enjoyable day on Pic du Canigou with Uli and Peter, and we were joined by Jan and Oliver for the evening, encountering various others on the way. 

Sadly, visibility on Canigou was somewhat limited. It was quite chilly. Gloves came in handy for those who had them handy. The path up Canigou was very gentle apart from the final 'staircase'.

It's a busy mountain but we had to wait a while for someone to turn up to take the top picture. 

 

Sue will remember the orientation table. 

The bottom picture was taken after we had got down below the cloud base.

After an hour in the busy refuge - Chalet-Hôtel des Cortalets - we continued, soon along a lovely contouring path that must once have been a mining tramway. 

A short haul through lovely pine forest over a final col led to the descent to this busy gite. Luckily Sue's booking service had worked, Uli and Peter managed to get a room, and Jan and Oliver managed to get fed. Very nice too. But they have to camp somewhere nearby.

We left the mushrooms for Pierre and Yolaine to harvest. 

A full and sociable day, hence the brevity of today's posting. I'm sure you'll understand, especially as my last phone battery is on the wane. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 7 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 54 - Stages 42 to 44 variant (3) - Refugi Ulldeter to Refuge de Mariailles

Distance: 21 km (Cum: 818 km)     

Ascent: 620 metres (Cum: 46,760 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.25 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: high cloud and some light rain at first, turning to sunny periods

Despite the high cloud, today's weather was much better than on the last occasion I was here, with Sue nine years ago. I recall spending much of that day in a cloud. 

Today both cloud and rain just about held off, and despite the predictions of high temperatures as we approach the coast, they have actually struggled to get much above 20°C over the past couple of days, with the cool wind from Spain causing fleeces to be donned for the first time in weeks. We had got used to a steady 25 to 30°C.

After descending from the refuge we quickly rose back up to a col at 2384 metres, having already completed most of the day's ascent.  We then spent several hours at around 2200 metres, heading relentlessly towards the Canigou massif. 'We' comprised an advance party - Peter and Uli, a group of four French, and two gents I haven't got to know. Plus me. Natalie (last seen outside El Serrat) comprised an advance advance party, having stayed at a cabane on Pla Guillem last night. 

Looking back to yesterday's ridge (pictured top), it looked as if Kevan and John would have a reasonable day for their march to Nuria. You may think it's blue sky, but in fact it was dark grey!

The middle picture is for Sue, who will remember the location where we brewed up in a cloud. I did the same today, in rather more intermittent cloud. The last tea bag from Luchon was duly expended and now I have half a gas cylinder to give away. 

The bottom picture shows a more representative view from today, with cloud bimbling up and down the valleys, and at times engulfing Canigou itself.

Encountered en route were several shepherds cabins, with roofs varying from stone to grass to metal; numerous large birds of prey as well as Swifts and Wheatears; and lots of horses and cattle. 

I arrived at the Refuge before 3pm, with plenty of time to get sorted out and shower before a big influx of what looked like Tour Aventure clients, judging by their huge kit bags.

I've looked at tonight's menu, which is quite interesting. The nettle soup will be accompanied by a side dish of fried grasshoppers (I was sad not to be able to cook this dish the other night, when I was foiled by having run out of lard - I suppose, on reflection, I could have used chocolate). Ceps have apparently been collected and will be transformed into an omelette using vultures' eggs (the vultures are a pest hereabouts and this is considered a humane form of culling them). The goat has almost been milked to death for the goats cheese soufflé, and the even more shocked chicken will be providing some tasty nuggets. It's bilberry tart for dessert, of course. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Tuesday 6 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 53 - Stages 42 to 44 variant (2) - Plateau de la Beguda to Refugi Ulldeter

Distance: 13 km (Cum: 797 km)     

Ascent: 1000 metres (Cum: 46,140 metres)
                     
Time taken: 6.5 hrs including 2.0 hrs stops                                      

Weather: sunny, with high cloud

Humphrey has translated last night's wild camp location as 'The Drinking Field'. It's pictured, top, from today's initial ascent to the ridge. The spring water certainly tasted as sweet as many a beer. I'm now enjoying some of the real stuff at this excellent Spanish refuge, in the company of a couple of gents from Saddleworth and their Dutch friends. 

Yesterday Sue managed to book accommodation for me all the way to Banyuls, so this was my last wild camp of the trip. A fitting location. The wild camping angel was breathing down on it, leaving me with a crispy-dry tent that doesn't need airing, even before the sun was up.

Once up on the ridge, past two big herds of barking Izard (sorry Nick, they were quite distant and I wasn't fast enough with the phone camera) I could easily ascend to Pic d'Elna. From there, Pic de Noufonts, the high point of the day at 2861 metres, was easily reached. The ongoing ridge curved into the distance like a wriggling snake or a fairground ride. It was great. Quite a few people around but not too crowded, and the short day encouraged lots of rests. 

There was a brisk wind from Spain, seemingly trying to repel cloud arriving from France. My fleece was donned for the first time in weeks. Out of the wind it was hot, so frequent 'fleece' stops were appropriate. They provided an excuse to admire the views, one of which - to Estany de Carança to the north - is shown above. 

On the final summit the Canigou massif appeared - the final big mountain on this long trip.

Nearby was a strange ice axe memorial to Elena Fernandez Mañe (1964 to 2003). On the descent, birds of prey floated in the sky above whilst large white butterflies fluttered haphazardly above the flowers. 

So, a wonderful easy ridge walk at around 2800 metres, then a leisurely descent along GR11 before rising to another col (Coll de la Marrana) and strolling down to the friendly refuge. It's a different place to the one Sue and I visited nine years ago - in feel if not in fabric. 

I was there by 3pm. Also here is Peter, a Dutchman with a German friend, Ulli, who is going my way. He walked the Appallachan Trail last year. All of it. Respect! 

There are also two chaps from Saddleworth, Kevan and John, with their Dutch friends, Lambert, William and Twan (Tony), who are walking a local five day circuit. 

Altogether a very sociable place. Dinner, very tasty, with Ulli and a friendly French couple who live in Barcelona. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 5 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 53 - Stage 41 (part)/42 to 44 variant (1) - La Cabanasse to Plateau de la Beguda in Vallée d'Eyne

Distance: 18 km (Cum: 784 km)     

Ascent: 1200 metres (Cum: 45,140 metres)
                     
Time taken: 8.75 hrs including 2.75 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny and hot

Another tremendous day in the mountains, taken at a very leisurely pace with lots of breaks in the shade, as I knew that an early camp would be too hot to cope with, and amongst the day walkers in an area where only sunset to sunrise bivouacing is allowed. My timing was perfect. I arrived at 5pm, just as the last day walkers were taking pictures of the izards and the sun's strength was just about bearable for camping in the open. 

The site (pictured below) really is a cracker, with a spring within feet and no discernable nuisance bugs. Grasshoppers aren't a nuisance, are they?  It's a fitting spot to end this series of fine wild camps, from Luchon to here, and avoid the anticlimax of lesser positions as I progress towards the coast. I know Humphrey has made some suggestions, and I thank him for that, but my recollection is that camping spots and water become more problematic from here. Also, that would have involved lugging extra provisions all the way from La Cabanasse, which would have been a pain. Literally, I pulled a back muscle yesterday and it's a bit stiff today. I'm bending down like an old man. (Oops, I probably do that all the time.)

Anyway, half board in a few gîtes and refuges should be a more sociable way of completing the walk than isolating myself in the tent. 

So I've just eaten my last tin of Thon à la Catalane for a while. I'm actually a bit sad about that.

Knowing it was a relatively easy day, I pottered off quite late at 8.30am, then stocked up at the local épicerie - exactly €20, which amused the cashier, it was the chocolatine croissant that did it. 

I then followed GR10 on lovely paths to Planès, the end of stage 41 in the Cicerone guide. I sat for a while in a good spot overlooking the village (the croissant was delicious), before strolling back a few metres to the GR36 turn. During which time a very sweaty and very puzzled 'Orange t-shirt' man appeared from the other direction. He was heavily disguised today. Wearing a blue t-shirt. We communicated briefly in 'Mapspeak' - our common language for the day, shook hands, and set off in our respective directions. 

The section of the GR36 path from Planès to Eyne is called 'Balcons de la Tête', and undulates in a south westerly direction, starting up grasshopper meadows with Yellow Rattle and Scabiouses, before entering woodland for quite a while. 

The woods seemed full of mushroom pickers and families with small children. 

There were fine views across the plateau to the Carlit peaks, bathed in sunshine on another cloudless day. (See top picture.)

After the enjoyable traverse, where once more there was lots of Eryngo, the GR route sloped into Eyne by a back entrance, and then tried to slope out without really entering village. I had plenty of time so went for a wander around. A pretty place, with a small but perfectly shut church and an Auberge with lots of awards. 

But today I had a heavy load, so instead of indulging in the fleshpot of Eyne, I headed on past the GR36 turn and up the Vallée d'Eyne. A large rock in the shady woods provided an excellent spot for a long lunch with a rare brew. I'm trying to use up the gas, and gave away Graham's surplus cylinder this morning. 

Then I spent the whole afternoon pottering along, stopping frequently, meeting loads of day walkers coming back down, and admiring the flowers. It's known as the Valley of the Flowers, but we've been in many valleys with more flowers on this trip. Admittedly they did improve once the cow zone had been cleared, and the Houseleeks were particularly abundant. I'm now in the Izard and Marmot zone - perhaps they also eat all the flowers.

There were occasional pauses as well to assist and encourage the Pyrenean booking service, which has now completed that task. Thanks go to Sue for that most valuable service. ..

Humphrey suggested a route south, shortly before GR10 reaches Refuge de l'Orry, reaching the ridge that I'll be walking along tomorrow at Coll de Noufonts. Well worth considering - the path should be quieter, and camping opportunities look good. 

However, it's brilliant here, with the Izards and Marmots more or less ignoring me now I'm settled in. 

Gear failures - latest:

Sunglasses - new for the trip - falling to bits

Shoe laces - new for the trip - broken

Pacer pole - tip failure

X-socks - new for the TGO Challenge - gone to holes

Travel Tap water filter - new for the TGO Challenge - thread faulty - luckily not needed as a filter

Scsrpa Infinity boots - will only just make it to Banyuls (I hope!)

Good gear:

Terra Nova Solar Competition 2 tent

Saucony Hattori shoes

Lowe-Alpine Nanon 50/60 Hyperlite rucksack

RAB ankle gaiters

MSR Superfly stove (very old but very good)

Samsung galaxy S3 - I'm slowly getting used to it - in a different league to its BlackBerry predecessor

Suunto Altimax watch/altimeter (very old but keeps going)

That's all for now, future postings may be less verbose.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Sunday 4 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 51 - Stage 40 (part)/41 (part) - just west of Coll de Coma d'Anyell to La Cabanasse

Distance: 31 km (Cum: 766 km)     

Ascent: 630 metres (Cum: 43,940 metres)
                     
Time taken: 9.25 hrs including 1.75 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny and hot

I was up early enough to see the man in the orange t-shirt go past, shortly before I left my idyllic spot soon after 8am. He's a nice chap. We lunched together later.  It's just a shame that his English is as bad as my French, so we more or less have to resort to sign language. 

I spent five years being taught French. Mostly learning lists of words. And soon forgetting them.  I seem to have absorbed very little of what I was taught. 

On my campsite wanderings I noticed a small cabin hidden away just below me. Unusually, it had solar panels and appeared to be occupied. I didn't approach more closely for fear of startling the residents. I didn't notice the cabin from the path. 

Anyway, by 8.30am I was up at the col admiring more splendid mountain views. Pic Carlit is dominant here, with seemingly no further barriers to the Mediterranean behind it. 

Snow patches added a bit of spice to the descent towards a large lake, Étang de Lanos, before an easy climb to the second col of the day, Porteille de la Grave (2426 metres). From here there was a long, gentle descent, much like a bouldery version of Glen Avon's route towards Ballater. The mountains to the east looked more distant and sparser than we've been used to. With low cloud on the eastern horizon, it seemed a bit like looking towards the north sea from the Lake District. 

It was hot again. I ate my last bar of Lindt Double Lait. It was either that or another chocolate melt dessert. 

Wild flowers were flourishing on the long descent to Bouillouses - Spring Gentians, Moss Campion and Common Monkshood were particularly abundant, as were increasing numbers of cattle, horses and tourists. 

Today's pictures were taken on this descent, both at the same bridge, the top one looking back and the bottom one looking forward. 

By the time Lac de Bouillouses was reached, the whole area seemed to be seething with people - day walkers, backpackers, picnickers,  etc. There were numerous family groups who looked as if they were carrying the kit for a night out - there is a multitude of camping spots up the long valley. 

I pitched up at Auberge du Carlit at 1pm and was pleased when 'Orange t-shirt man' beckoned me to his table, and the last remaining seat in the shade. My tinned fish can wait, the ham and cheese baguette went down well. 

He left before me, heading for Bolquère.  I followed, and soon found myself behind 'Hobo man', with his distinctive yellow cape. "Are you doing GR10?" he asked. "Sort of" I replied, and hastened past.

The paths to La Cabanasse were pleasant enough at the start (fine views across meadows to the Carlit peaks) and finish (rural scenes of haymaking etc), but two long forest sections in the middle were quite wearing. One was down a never ending bouldery chute. I was glad I wasn't on a mountain bike. Then a long undulating track passing below Pyrenees 2000 (a place) really did go on for ages. Moreover, it seemed mainly uphill! 

It was after 4pm when I reached Bolquère, where some sort of  fancy dress carnival was under way. It looked a nice place. I explored and found a shop with a supply of cold drinks that was most welcome as I'd forgotten to refill my water bottle at lunch time, and down here there aren't the springs that I've become used to. But the village lacked a vital component. I was running out of cash and no vendor of cash was to be seen. 

So I carried on for a good hour, enjoying watching the 'Train Jaune' potter up and down the narrow guage railway line that I thought I'd have to use tomorrow to seek out that cash.

It was nearly 5.30pm when I rolled up at the 'Camping Rural' site - Camping les Opilleres - 500 metres south east from the GR10 as it enters the village. By 6.30pm my washing was on the line and I set off in search of food, etc. 

The restaurant recommended in Cicerone's web supplement to its GR10 guide was curiously absent, so I strolled on up the hill to Mont-Louis, where I wish I'd had time to explore the old fort.

Oh joy!  A cash machine. A restaurant. All that I needed to round off another fine day on GR10. 

And I had a good chat with Sue, who would make a fine booking agent. Actually, she is a fine booking agent. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Saturday 3 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 50 - Stage 39/40 (part) - Mérens-les-Vals to a small lake to the west of Coll de Coma d'Anyell (2340 metres)

Distance: 13 km (Cum: 735 km)     

Ascent: 1500 metres (Cum: 43,310 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.75 hrs including 1.25 hrs stops                                     

Weather: cloudy then sunny with sharp showers. Continuing hot

Wow! 50 days. And I'm still enjoying it despite being on my own. I've found a fantastic wild camp location here at 2340 metres after a really good walk today. 

Last night's meal at gite d'etape du Nabre was excellent. Aperitif, then a vast mixed salad, shepherd's pie, cheese, trifle and coffee. Just as well there was a lot as I was sitting next to a glutton. Luckily I had two nice Catalonians from Ibiza opposite me, on a seven day walking route south to north from Porta. They spoke even less French than me (is that possible?) so we got on fine.  That's despite being blanked by Macho Man the glutton, who was holding fort with what I imagine were stories in adulation of his 30 day GR10 crossing. Perhaps I'm being unfair, he did answer when spoken to and nudged, and he replied in perfectly fluent English, in as few words as possible, before turning back to his preferred audience and helping himself to more food. He left at 6am this morning, thankfully considerately quietly, off to inflict his Macho image on another unsuspecting group tonight.

(Perhaps that's how I was with Ron, earlier on the trip - I wonder where he is now - what goes round comes round, as they say.)

Breakfast was a much more pleasant affair, largely because Pierre and Yolaine were present. They were absent last night, having completed their assignment and had dinner in Ax with Pierre's parents. It was a fittingly jolly occasion (breakfast, and I'm sure their dinner was likewise).  We parted company for good after breakfast as P&Y are having a day off and will be a day behind me from now on. The top picture is the last you'll see of them on this trip, though we did promise to meet again. 

"Perhaps on that walk across Scotland", suggested Pierre, a possible victim of my TGO Challenge sales pitch several weeks earlier! 

Despite the good forecast, it was cloudy this morning. Trouser legs were zipped on as horse flies were expected (but apparently they will disappear after today). In the event, I didn't see any, so the legs soon came off. It was all rather irrelevant when the rain started, as the flies would have found exposed skin hard to come by. 

The rain stopped and I passed a hobo like old man I'd seen yesterday, washing in the river.

A little string of people coming down from Refuge des Bésines politely gave way, depriving me of the chance of a short break. But I was going well, so no worries. 

I reached Porteille des Bésines in rain, but the waterproofs were soon off again for the stroll down to the refuge. A coke and a cheese omelette went down well. 

With rain again threatening, I walked for another hour up to this delightful spot, arriving at 2pm.  So it's another half day!

The rain came just as I had the tent up, so I spent a while inside, but most of the afternoon has been spent lounging around in sunshine in these lovely surroundings. 

There have been fewer flowers today, perhaps because of a change in the type of rock, which now supports pine trees to a higher level, and there's lots of Alpenrose and other shrubbery. As well as grasshoppers and ants. 

Numerous people have been past whilst I've been here, mostly heading back to the Bésines refuge. I suppose it is the weekend, and a popular area.

The only downside of this camping spot is the number of resident ants, but now it has cooled down a bit (7pm) and dinner has been served (soup, pasta, salmon, fresh tomato, with a chocolate 'melt' dessert), it's very cosy in the tent with the midge net up. 

So with Pierre and Yolaine now behind me, I think I've lost all the rest of the Jeandel 14. Some have gone home, some, like Roland and Marie, are still 'on the road', Gilles was due to finish his HRP trip yesterday - not that far behind Simon - and of course we know where P&Y are. (At this moment they are enjoying a lavish dinner in Ax with Pierre's parents.) But there's no signal here, so by the time you read this that moment will have passed!

That leaves a couple of good friends not mentioned, but more of them later, I hope. 

Oh, I nearly forgot to report back on P&Y's incredibly important assignment.  They had been despatched to Aulus to investigate the blue tractor. Returning with photos of side plates, end plates, front plates and just about any other plate you can think of, their research reveals the following:

'Super 7' - on the bodywork

'Made in France' - unclear whether it's the whole or part of the tractor, and the same applies to

'Roto Diesel'

'Paris Rhone'

'Kuhn'

Could it be a Kuhn Super 7?

The photos are available (tractor geeks only)

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (18)

The ubiquitous Alpenrose (Rhododendron ferrugineum).

Very ubiquitous in the Carlit area.

Sent from our GR10 trip - floral department

Friday 2 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 49 - Stage 38 - Refuge de Rulhe to Mérens-les-Vals

Distance: 14 km (Cum: 722 km)      

Ascent: 440 metres (Cum: 41,810 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.75 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: hot and sunny

As acknowledged in yesterday's comments, today's path was more 'HRP' than 'GR10' in nature, featuring some steep and very bouldery sections. 

There were several campers dotted around the refuge, one group with its resident donkey. 

Leaving at 8am, I was well behind Pierre and Yolaine, who had been despatched early on an important mission. 

On another glorious day  I picked up a phone signal after half an hour,  on Col des Calmettes (2318 metres) and enjoyed reading Humphrey's comment (see my reply on the day in question) and hearing about Graham's successful journey home. It's good to receive comments etc when you are on your own - I like it anyway. 

There wasn't a soul about until I reached the valley leading into Mérens, just P&Y's fresh prints across the occasional snow gullies. Here, someone had been along the route with a shovel in order to open the path to those without winter equipment. There were also lots of small cairns marking the way where the painted waymarks were sparse. I expect someone has the job of rebuilding these cairns every spring. There were other signs of footpath maintenance on this path that isn't shown on my 1993 map, though it is shown on my 2001 map that overlaps this section. 

I didn't hurry. There was no need, and the undulating sometimes bouldery, sometimes sheep track path, all through clumps of Alpenrose, was certainly not conducive to hurrying.

On the way to the high point of the day,  Crête de la Lhasse (2439 metres), a huge meadow of pale yellow pasque flowers concealed some shrieking marmots. 

After another break to admire the views, I descended steeply past Asphodel and through scratchy Broom to the valley, where people were walking up to Étang de Comte from a nearby car park. 

The long hot descent brought about a skinned toe and a nosebleed. Minor annoyances.

Once in Mérens, with my map open on the wrong page, I fumbled about looking for the gite, eventually finding it with the help of P&Y who zoomed past on their mission.  It's exactly where marked on my newer map, about a kilometre out of town. 

I was there by 1.30pm. Time for a relaxing afternoon, in lieu of a rest day, a feature of the trip that has become a bit sparse!

'Chilling' isn't the right description, as it's 32°C in the shade and the breeze.

Today's photos show a couple of 'GR10 friends' - the frequent signposting, and the regular provision of fresh, cold water. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (17)

Alpine Pasque Flower (Pulsatilla alpina apiifolia) - which is prettier, the flower or the seed head?

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Thursday 1 August 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 48 - Stage 34 to 37 variant (4) - Below Port d'Incles to camp near Refuge du Rulhe

Distance: 10 km (Cum: 708 km)     

Ascent: 750 metres (Cum: 41,370 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.0 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: a 'blue sky' day

A short day to end my four day excursion on the HRP. Classic HRP country - very slow going over big boulders for quite a bit of the time, superlative mountain views, and the sun beating down. 

My camp site looked nice enough, and I got a great night's sleep with the door open (midge net shut).  It was a starry night, very calm, shocking for the deer that nearly stumbled over my tent, and dark for the little procession of folk who seemed to be tackling Port d'Incles as a night hike. 

The only problem was the plague of mosquitos. 

The little blighters followed me all the way up the HRP path to 2300 metres. Even when I got a strong phone signal it was pretty much impossible to stop for long enough to do very much without getting bitten. There's no signal here at the Refuge, so this will be posted in the morning. 

I regained the path marked on my map a little below Refuge de Juclar, perched at about 2300 metres above Estany de Juclar (a small lake), from where an adventurous path led around the side of the lake to the excellent camping spot recommended by Simon. Sadly if I had pressed on last night I'd have arrived too late to enjoy the spot.

There were a few people around in this lovely area that is well served by refuges. I made my way over Collada de Juclar and back into France, lunching on my last Salade Parisienne - the one with tuna and mushrooms and mayo, before ambling on to Refuge du Rulhe, arriving before 2pm.

So I've had a half day today, but not as lazy as Pierre and Yolaine's day - they arrived yesterday and are resting here today. It's quite acceptable to camp nearby and eat at the Refuge, as long as you don't camp on the helicopter pad.

It's great to see P&Y again. Their rest was well earned as on Tuesday they had a very hard day from Rialb cabin to Refuge du Juclar. 

Today's photos: the top one is the Estany de Juclar, from near the refuge, and my excellent camping spot is below. 

Tomorrow: another easy day on GR10. 

Later: spent a pleasant few minutes with an English family staying at the Refuge. The first English people I've seen since Luchon. They are on a six day circuit from Ax-les-Thermes, backpacking and hutting. I hope it inspires them to do more. 

The refuge staff were very friendly, the meal was good, and the company (P&Y) exceptional. 

The refuge is in a great spot. The sun finally dropped out of a still cloudless sky at nearly nine o'clock. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (16)

Yellow Turks-Cap Lily (Lilium pyrenaicum) - not the most frequently seen flower of the trip. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 31 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 47 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (3) - El Serrat to beside Rio Manegor below Port d'Ingles (2000 metres)

Distance: 19 km (Cum: 698 km)     

Ascent: 1780 metres (Cum: 40,620 metres)
                     
Time taken: 9.0 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: perfect summer's day, if a bit hot

It was great to hear from Simon Harper yesterday. Well done to him for finishing the HRP when so many others have been unable to do so. On his own as well. Respect. I'm sure that people like Humphrey, David and Alistair (not to mention Chantal) will agree. 

I decided to 'fuel up' with a hotel breakfast this morning - there are no shops here (I knew that, hence setting off with several days' food on Monday) - so that made for another late start on a hot day. But at least El Serrat is at 1500 metres, so there was less than usual woodland ascent to enjoy (endure?) before striking out over open ground. 

I soon passed the lone lady backpacker I'd seen a couple of days ago.  She is Natalie, from Brittany, walking the HRP over three summers in three week stretches. This is her final stretch - Vicdessos to Banyuls. I'm unlikely to see her again because I'll  probably be ahead of her when I next encounter the HRP. 

Today was a classic mountain day, crossing two separate ridges, each at around 2600 metres. I really felt I was making progress across the landscape, though the extensive mountain views both east and west show no sign of abating. 

The first landmark passed after leaving El Serrat was Sorteny Refuge. I recall a rather strange, ill equipped place, but now it's being made into a full service refuge. A big project. 

The flowers were great today. A series of 'occasional flowers' could result from today's sightings. I also saw  a slow worm, eagles, and a few shy marmots. 

There was lots of Thrift up at today's first col - la Collada deis Meners. It's flanked by two climbable 2912 metre peaks. I'd considered going up the more accessible of the two, but decided that the panorama from the col was more than good enough for today. 

The top picture shows the view from there back towards El Serrat and yesterday's hills.

A fine belvedere then led to an unmanned hut called Jan, where a couple seemed to be in residence. 

Today was spent entirely on the HRP path, which has excellent red and yellow waymarks hereabouts. I don't remember them from my previous visits, and the route from Jan has changed. It now contours (if a stiff 400 metre ascent to the second 2600 metre pass of the day can be described as 'contouring') round to another cabane - Cabane Sorda. This meant my planned camping spot by the Clot lakes was by-passed. I was tempted to go down there, but the area seemed to be full of horses. 

After seeing just a handful of people all day, I found hordes of children at Sorda, either staying in the cabin or camping. I hurried past.

By now I was missing my afternoon tea and fancied stopping, but the path had switched to a hillside with no water. There seemed to be little choice - camp with horses, or without water.

I was feeling fine so just continued, in the knowledge that Simon had suggested a good spot a bit further on. Then, just before 6pm, the head of this valley appeared, with flat ground, no horses, and lots of springs. Perfect. The tent was up, and a brew on, in no time at all. 

The view from my front door isn't to be sniffed at either. See lower picture. 

Oh, and who says the HRP is flat compared with GR10?  

It's back to GR10 tomorrow, probably by a roundabout route, as the direct route over Port d'Ingles looks a bit too simple. 

No signal here so I've no idea when this will 'send'.  A couple of comments from Nightbird did get through, though, reminding me to use my own photos, not Sue's, when entering photo competitions! 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

The Crux

You can't quite see my footprints, but it was about 100 vertical metres from the start of the snowfield to the innocuous looking rocks that would have arrested any slip.

People reading this with GR10 in mind need not worry - this is on the optional 'fly free' route! 

Don't worry if I go awol for a few days - it's remote country until Mérens on Friday.  I haven't heard from Pierre, so I assume a phone signal is hard to come by. 

Sent from a safe haven in Andorra

Tuesday 30 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 46 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (2) - Étang de Petsiguer to El Serrat

Distance: 11 km (Cum: 679 km)     

Ascent: 550 metres (Cum: 38,840 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.5 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: a beautiful summer's day

Waking at six o'clock to a clear sky and 6°C, with masses of condensation, was no incentive for getting up, especially as I thought I had a fairly short day ahead of me. 

So a brew and a lie in followed, whilst watching the half moon dawdle across the sky above me and the sun slowly cast its light down the hillside before me. 

A delightful way to start the day, and magic when the sun finally reaches you and quickly warms everything in its ambit.

So it was ten o'clock by the time I set off from the lovely wild campsite, pictured top in the direction I was heading. 

I was wise to stop when I did last night, not because of a shortage of suitable sites, but because frequent snow fields required deviations from the path, which was quite difficult to follow anyway. 

I saw a shepherd pass by before striking camp, but then nobody, and not really any sign of anyone having been here.

Yesterday's belvedere path was soon lost to view and I made my way very slowly towards Étang de Goueille.

The area by the Petsiguer lakes was interesting, with rudimentary stone shelters, and ground covered with Trumpet Gentians and flitting Wheatears and Stonechats. Houseleeks were also in evidence here. I stopped frequently. The views were sublime. 

There were several path junctions, one of which I took by mistake, until an impossible snow gully turned me back.

I was lucky. Every time the path disappeared under a bank of snow and I thought I'd lost it for good, it reappeared as if by magic. 

Eventually the red and white stripes of the HRP path from Fourcats joined from the right, and my entry point into Andorra,  Port de l'Albeille, came into view. In the absence of a back up plan, I was relieved to see that the 2601 metre col looked feasible, albeit there was a lot of snow to get around. 

So on I continued, taking loads of photos, eventually making my way over very rough ground to reach the col soon after midday. Time for lunch. There was no sign of anyone having been to this spot for some time, though I could see folk far below by the Tristaina lakes in Andorra. 

The middle image was taken from the col, looking back into France. 

I received at this point a message from Pierre and Yolaine. It seemed they had chosen a different route into Andorra from Fourcats. It looked harder on my map. 

The marked path then rose along the ridge to the south east for a few metres, before heading in steep zigzags down scree. I had been sure it would by-pass the massive snow slope below. 

Wrong. The path led straight into the snow, which was guarded on either side by rock buttresses well beyond my level of skill.

What to do?  

I thought about my back up plan, and about the nice hotel booked in El Serrat. 

'Graham could do this with his eyes shut' I thought. 

I shut my eyes.  It didn't work. 

I tested the slope. It was steep, but if I kicked hard I got a bit of grip. For 100 metres? Anyway, I knew what would happen if I hesitated. So I set off. A few metres at a time. Digging in hard to rest. Moving like a drunken crab. A black dot on a sheet of white.

A long time later four French lads ran up to me as I strolled nonchalantly past them. 

"Nice t-shirt" I remarked to the one in Patagonian blue. 

"Yes" he replied "we had planned to go to Fourcats that way, but we watched you come down. What shall we do?"

I knew Pierre and Yolaine had found a better route (at least I hope it was better) so I called Pierre but the phone was turned off.  The lads really didn't fancy going up the steep snow - it would have become increasingly frightening the more tired and higher they got. So they sensibly rang Fourcats, whose guardian helpfully provided an acceptable alternative, probably the route P&Y took.

In the bottom picture the col I came over is the lowest point on the horizon. I'll find an easier way back into France in a couple of days' time. 

The walk down to El Serrat should then have been fairly mundane, but the HRP path is a devilish creation. It seemed to take me past a waterfall beside which the path was as steep as the waterfall. A series of rock bands that I needed to shimmy down on my bum made life interesting, as did the deep bog the path crossed at the bottom. 

But after crossing a road the woodland route to El Serrat was lovely and relaxing, so I was well composed when I strolled into the Niunit Hotel. 

"A large beer, please."

It was only 3.30pm. 

A short but memorable day in the hills!

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (15)

I saw lots of this beside yesterday's belvedere path. I think it's the flower head of Mountain Onion (Allium montanum).

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 29 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 45 - Stages 34 to 37 variant (1) - Auzat to Étang de Petsiguer (2240 metres)

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 668 km)      

Ascent: 1520 metres (Cum: 38,290 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.5 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                      

Weather: sunny periods, cloud later

A perfect day for a fine walk. A bright Monday morning brought a freshness that was lacking last week, for this third part of my GR10 crossing, companionwise. Having lost Sue, and now Graham, I am all alone. That means I can go at my own speed, pause whenever I want, and not worry about Sue being left too far behind or Graham being kept waiting for too long. 

I've climbed over 1500 metres today, with a heavy pack containing food for several days, but as the climbing was mainly very gradual and spread over the entire 17 km of walking, it doesn't feel like it. 

Stuffed full of Yves's breakfast, and my head still buzzing from the bangs and crashes of last night's excellent fireworks finale to Auzat's fête, I wandered up the quiet sunken lane to Olbier. A lovely way to start the day. An early mountain biker was pushing his steed down the hill, obviously afraid of losing control near a steep drop. 

Olbier turned out to be a hamlet of narrow streets full of shuttered terraced cottages. I wonder whether the aluminium factory workers lived here, or is it an ancient farming community?

A similar gentle path led on to Goulier. I was finding the ascent over slippery rocks easier than yesterday's descent, despite the heavy load.

I passed the Croix de Massot and pee'd behind a tree called Leo. I wondered what the tree thought about its name. (Walking alone has some peculiar effects!)

At Goulier the unmistakable red and white daubs of the GR10 directed me south, up the steepest hill of the day. Bizarrely, I was now travelling towards Hendaye. I'm sure Marceau Derrieu (1912-81) would have smiled from his grave. I soon came across a monument to this man, who died in the mountains near here. It was he who 'fathered' the GR10 footpath, this section being opened in 1975.

I'd passed horses with bells, in the woods, and even spotted a couple of tractors (too modern to be of interest), at which point a plaintive comment arrived from Alan R. It's such a shame that I didn't inspect the tractor at Aulus more closely - I thought Alan would recognise it instantly. ..

The path had climbed gently through the Forêt Domaniale de Goulier Auzat - lovely walking at 15°C with a gentle cool draught and not a fly in sight. Views were starting to open up as we approached the memorial to Marceau Derrieu, with Small Yellow Foxgloves littering the hillside. 

At around 1400 metres (I'd started at 750) the path stopped rising and embarked on a wonderful long belvedere for a few kilometres. It wound its precarious way around the steep hillside. A slip here would be disastrous but luckily the path offers a metre or so of width in most places. 

Harebells were coming increasingly into frame, and the bright purple flower heads of Mountain Onion were also splashed beside the path. 

I was delighting in a freshness to the weather that has been absent of late.  A few minutes were passed with five French walkers on their way to the Fourcat refuge where Pierre and Yolaine were last night. They were taking their time around the precipitous belvedere, and on the look out for izards. I looked as well. I saw plenty of lizards! 

There were good views to a jagged ridge across the valley, but the highest summits remained cloaked in a stubborn cloud. 

Two small rams pottered along in front of me for a while as the path rose to 1550 metres by a junction that led down to Arties. The upper picture was taken near here, looking back to a less precipitous section of the path.  There was lots of Broomrape and Fringed Pinks in this area. Before lunching myself, at 1800 metres or so, I passed a lady backpacker lunching some way off the path amidst a herd of cattle. Looking back later, I could see no sign of this lady, nor of the French group. 

A sheep looked injured. On closer viewing, it was afterbirth, and a new born lamb was vigorously exercising its lungs.  One lamb amongst a large flock. I thought the rams were a shifty pair.

Shortly after that, a wired section of path saw me stashing my poles and map case and easing myself along the wire across the steep wet rock. I was glad I'd stashed the poles. 

Then I forsook the red and white path leading to Fourcats, in favour of a thin path with yellow waymarks, rising past rushing streams lined with Marsh Marigolds and Alpenrose, which effectively by-passes the refuge. I was last here with Dave, on 24 August 1994, when I seem to recall the main feature of the walk being the cloud in which we passed the day. We camped a bit further on then. Today the cloud wasn't far above me when I stopped at this fine spot (pictured) at 3.30pm. It's in the Snowbell zone at about 2240 metres, just before Étang de Petsiguer. There are some large patches of snow nearby.  I took full advantage of the nice weather while it lasted, but as I write I'm engulfed in the thickest cloud of the trip. It's about 10 metres visibility, so extremely unwise to venture far from the tent - you'd get soaked by the cloud, and. .. have you ever tried to find a tent in a white out?

Anyway, I'm making inroads into the giant bag of food and have all my needs (not the Internet of course, and a Kindle would be handy) so I'm quite happy here in my cloud. 

I'll send this sometime tomorrow when I have a signal. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary