Thanks go to David and Jan for renting us their lovely downstairs gite, and to Al and Hazel and Andrew and Kate for putting up with us (me) for the week.
The sun is still shining.
Next stop - Timperley!
Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca
Saturday, 31 May 2014
Friday, 30 May 2014
Friday 30 May 2014 - Tour Madeloc
Tour Madeloc is a Majorcan watch tower built in 1285 by James II of Majorca to protect his territory of Roussillon against attacks from the north by the king of France and from the south by his brother, Peter of Aragon. It was renovated by Vauban in the 17th century and is now used as a TV relay station. It's allegedly 650 or so metres above sea level, but my old map shows it as 360 metres! (The download from my Garmin gadget will reveal all in due course. ) It is just about visible from Maison de la Forêt.
Leaving the others to build sandcastles on Argeles Plage, Sue and I drove up a minor road from the high point of which it was an easy walk up to the tower. We passed another battery emplacement dating from the 1880s on the way up.
Today's pictures were taken in the vicinity of the tower.
There were quite a few people about and an abundance of flowers, with lovely views of the coast, from Banyuls to north of Perpignan, and of a fine selection of vineyards.
The path took us south of the tower and on to a short section of GR10, before reaching a col from which a narrow, contouring belvedere took us all the way back to the start.
9km - a great way to spend a sunny afternoon on the Vermillion Coast, and leaving us plenty of time to enjoy a most lavish barbecue with David and Jan.
I even finished my holiday reading - a funny little book by Catharina Ingelman-Sundberg called 'The Little Old Lady Who Broke All The Rules.
Thursday 29 May 2014 - Chapelle Santa Engracia
The walk starts steeply before relaxing to a gentle gradient with good views towards the Canigou massif, which today was engulfed in cloud, pictured top.
The chapel, also pictured, was renovated fairly recently (finished in 2008) and is on a site that affords fine views to the Perpignan coastal area and to the route of GR10, the trans Pyrenean path I walked last year. I did this stretch under a blue sky on day 58, when similar pictures were posted but in rather brighter conditions - not that I have any complaints about today's ideal walking weather.
After lunch at Julio's bench we continued along a well built path past giant bellflowers towards the GR10 path, which we joined before its final ascent over Col de Paracolls. On the way we diverted to a 'Grand Battery' a high point of 887 metres with panoramic views and a well constructed platform from which to carry out the functions of a 'Grand Battery', presumably constructed at around the same time as nearby 19th century forts.
When we got down the steep GR10 descent path - my first time on this particular section of GR10 - we found Arles-sur-Tech to be rather deserted. Sue and I did however find somewhere for a pot of tea, whilst the others dashed off to catch a bus back to Amélie. They were disappointed. It's Ascension Day. The bus wasn't running. So after a bit of faffing they joined us for the walk back to the cars.
A supermarket visit provided another excellent home cooked dinner.
Wednesday, 28 May 2014
Wednesday 28 May 2014 - Notre-Dame de Vie
On holiday at Maison de la Foret, there's a short walk up to the small church, Notre-Dame de Vie.
On a sunny day we went up here, and all of us went a little further, the Roberts pairs returning by their routes of ascent, whilst Sue and I continued along the fire track, accidentally bypassing Chapelle St Laurent and making our way down via an interesting cross country route that led finally past some white Arabian stallions, through some vineyards, across a wooden bridge and into a thicket. Beyond the thicket was a large house surrounded by two separate electric fences.
"We'd better go back" I told Sue.
"Hang on" she replied, "that's our car over there."
So we vaulted David and Jan's wild boar defences and returned home for lunch after this 10km circuit. The GPS download of the route will be interesting as I have no real idea of where we went or how we managed to get back to the house so effectively.
Sue and I then enjoyed a relaxing afternoon whilst the others went shopping in Collioure.
Today's pictures are of Maison de la Foret, and Notre-Dame de Vie.
Tuesday 27 May 2014 - Paulilles and Cap Béar
Paulilles has a rich history. Its rural life ended in 1870 when it was chosen as the location for a dynamite factory, set up by locals with assistance from Alfred Nobel, who had by accident discovered how to make dynamite a few years earlier.
The factory's chequered history ended in 1984, and recently the large site has been renovated and made safe for visitors.
Nowadays 'A Workers' Story' exhibition, compiled with the help of former workers and local associations, pays homage to the inhabitants of the 'Côte Vermeille' who brought the Nobel dynamite factory to life. There's also an outdoor museum in the original factory, with rushing French schoolchildren and scale models of the site and the landscape, the places around the world visited by the dynamite (Mont Blanc tunnel, Panama Canal, Oil exploration sites, etc) and the restored site. The old water tower has been converted into a watchtower, giving a panoramic view of the site and its coastline.
After lunch on the beach we enjoyed a walk along the 'Sentier Littoral' to the lighthouse at Cap Béar. Although it's only a short walk, the coastline path is a swooping switchback affair - a rather more aggressive version of the South West Coast Path. It takes no prisoners, hence the Roberts family's decision to head back to a café a kilometre before reaching the lighthouse. A tough kilometre, as Sue and I discovered. The cliffs are not high, but the relentless steep undulations in hot weather take their toll. Today's picture is taken from the coast path, looking towards Banyuls-sur-Mer and the Spanish border.
On reaching the lighthouse we admired the coastal views and looked up to Fort Béar, built around 1880 and used as a defence post until 1914. Unlike many of these 19th century forts, this one is still in use - as a commando training centre.
In the distance, we noticed loads of fresh snow on the Massif du Canigou. Apparently it is usually pretty much clear of snow by this time of year, so the Pyrenees may have experienced another year of exceptional snowfall.
Closer to hand, multi coloured cactus flowers on the steep slopes drew our eyes towards several scuba divers, snorkeling with long rods. The brave capture of a giant starfish was witnessed. Lovely views across the bay completed the picture.
Finally, after some welcome refreshments, it was time to head for some local produce from the artisan shops of Argelès and prepare supper, with the pleasure of David and Jan's company for the evening.
Monday, 26 May 2014
Monday 26 May 2014 - The Orgues of Ille sur Tet and Villefranche-de-Conflent
An intermittently rainy day saw us visiting these two interesting locations.
The Orgues, pictured, are an amphitheatre of columns, known as hoodoos, sculpted by erosion. There are areas of meadow at several levels, and black stonechats were enjoying the gorse. There are similar sites in Cappadocia in Turkey, and in Bryce Canyon in the USA, as well as in the Hautes Alpes.
Lunch in the village was followed by an interesting visit to the fortified ramparts of Villefranche-de-Conflent, with its long history and exceptional buildings. A great place to visit. There's also a fort, accessible via 734 steps, which would be worth visiting, and it's the terminus of the 'Train Jaune' which crosses the GR10 route near La Cabanasse.
Welcome hot chocolate etc in Café le Canigou preceded a rainy drive home.
All the locations mentioned in this week's short daily reports will be exposed in more detail in a future slide show.
Sent from Maison de la Foret
Sunday, 25 May 2014
Sunday 25 May 2014 - Argelès-sur-Mer to Collioure
We are on holiday with Al and Hazel and Andrew and Kate, staying at David and Jan's lovely gite, Maison de la Foret, where they occupy the top floor and welcome visitors to stay in the immaculately equipped lower floor. Some readers may recall that we met David at the start of our GR10 trip last year, and I stayed here after I finished that walk.
Today, in steadily improving weather, the six of us strolled down past hoopoes and broomrape to Argelès-Plage and on to the port for lunch.
A stunning collection of photos, mounted on large information boards, formed the 'Explosion de vie exhibition' beside the path between the plage and the port.
The afternoon was spent on the coastal path - European Trail E12, Arc Mediterraneen, no less - to the tourist trap of Collioure (pictured), where we all enjoyed excellent ice creams in the sunshine and were entertained by a large group of mountain bikers who arrived in convoy and proceeded to dunk themselves rather entertainingly in the Med.
Sue and I then walked most of the way back, past a series of bare busoms, by an alternative route involving some woods, on a day on which we ambled around 18 km. (We did bus it between Argelès Port and Argelès village.) The others returned from their 12 km walk by taxi as there was a train strike.
Good food and wine and boules, etcetera concluded a most enjoyable and relaxing day.
Sent from Maison de la Foret
Maison de la Foret
Thanks to Flybe's failing baggage counting and aircraft computer systems our arrival here was a little later than expected.
The supermarket had shut but luckily a local pizza shop (which I stood outside for the top picture) produced some excellent dinner for us, then certain members of our party took to the pool in this delightful location, about which more later.
Sent from France
Saturday, 24 May 2014
Back Home
Those finishing the Challenge on Friday were treated to a day of crystal clear weather for their last lap to Montrose, where our enclave on the campsite is pictured before it started to disband.
The announcement that Big John in the exciting shirt has a job that means he won't have time to be Challenge Coordinator was still sinking in, but I've not encountered anyone who doubts Ali and Sue's ability to take on the mantle. Good luck to you both, and to the entire Challenge support team of organisers vetters and sponsors.
Apparently there were over fifty 'drop outs' this year - an astounding figure given the good conditions, though I know that some were due to unavoidable personal/domestic issues.
The average age of Challengers was 57. The average age of dropouts was ... 57.
The highlight of my trip was Day 5 - a wonderful walk over Creag Meagaidh; but equal to that was the pleasure of meeting so many Challengers during the course of the fortnight, compared with just five encounters with other Challengers during last year's event.
I'll remember a few little items for a while. ..
Waking up in the mist to find ourselves camped on the lawn at Balmoral Castle (or was that a dream?).
David's story about the 'tick in the restaurant'.
Coffee at Chez JJ in Tarfside.
Stefan's midnight arrival at Annan and his a la carte breakfast.
Roger Smith looking in good form at Montrose.
A lanky bearded figure appearing at my tent door just as I'd pitched camp on two nights running - "Hello, I'm Mole" said Jason.
Sue O at Balmedie, soaking wet and after two 45 km days, traipsing over seemingly endless sand dunes in search of the beach, and her relief when we eventually found it.
Jeremy Prall's idyllic camping spot on Day 1 on the Morar ridge, as well as my own eight great wild camps, all free from midges and ticks (the latter of which I have still to encounter on this event).
The 'Amazon' woman.
The excellent Indian restaurant in Ballater and a brief encounter with American Joe, seemingly doing the Challenge in sandals.
Great hospitality at Newtonmore Hostel.
Orchids and Bog Asphodel, Cloudberry and all the other flowers.
A red kite near Charr bothy.
T-shirt weather on eleven out of the fourteen days.
Huge herds of deer and scurrying mice, but sadly no wildcat sighting this year.
Alvar's cheery voice and Roger's cheery messages at Control.
David's ability to survive both a slip and Heather's surgical skills.
A surprisingly tricky little hill on the way to Ballater.
Huge clusters of small tents at Ballater, Tarfside and Montrose.
The Cameraderie of the Challenge.
I could go on. ...
Happy Days indeed - I hope to be back next year.
A slide show may follow ... sometime.
Sent from Timperley (or nearby)
Thursday, 22 May 2014
Thursday 22 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 14 - By Hill of Roughbank to Dunnottar Castle and Stonehaven
Route: as planned, mainly on forest tracks, with minor variations
Distance: 29 km (Cum: 341)
Ascent: 550 metres (Cum: 12400)
Time taken: 5.5 hrs including 0.7 hrs breaks (Cum 115 hours including breaks)
Weather: dull, cool and heavily overcast, a prelude to heavy rain after I finished
Click on the link below (Day 14) for details of my planned route:
With rain forecast, I decided to start early and enjoy the best of the day.
So by 4.15 am I was tramping the forest paths towards my destination, enjoying solitude apart from the very vocal dawn chorus. In situations like this I often vow to rise early more often - it brings great rewards.
Today I was rewarded by avoiding the rain, so my tally of walking in the rain to any extent on this trip is limited to just the first Saturday morning - brilliant!
The forest paths were fine, but I hastened along them, forgetting to take a picture with the phone, so today's image is of the Queen's Well on the way to Tarfside - I'd previously tried and failed to send it.
At Dunnottar I managed some self-timed images before Kirsten turned up and kindly took the picture on the previous posting.
A nice coastal walk to Stonehaven was followed by a bus to Montrose and the usual erecting of tent and a hot shower and fresh clothes at the campsite, then it was off to the Park Hotel to sign in and enjoy lunch and reunions, before heading to Balmedie beach to collect a rather bedraggled Sue O at the end of her walk. At least I'm assuming she's bedraggled, given the present downpour. She hasn't arrived yet.
That's it for now. I'll maybe do another posting on statistics and a few anecdotal stories after tonight's dinner - but that posting can wait.
So - the end of another successful Challenge, with just the dinner to enjoy and Alan R and Graham B to return to their loved ones tomorrow.
Sent from Balmedie Beach
Wednesday 21 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 13 - Burn of Badymicks to burn by Hill of Roughbank
Route: as planned, from excellent wild camp at NO 588 834 (300 metres) to excellent wild camp recommended by Humphrey, at NO 721 876 (250 metres), mainly along good tracks
Distance: 20km (Cum: 312)
Ascent: 850 metres (Cum: 11850)
Time taken: 7.1 hrs including 2.3 hrs breaks
Weather: hot and sunny after a misty start
Click on the link below (Day 13) for details of my planned route:
After a brilliant sleep and a slow departure as the overnight mist cleared, I wandered along past mink traps and rudimentary bridges to the very pristine Charr bothy. Before Charr I turned a corner to be greeted with 'Windmills of the Fetteresso Forest' - a sight that remained with me for most of the day. I can just about see and hear them from the tent.
The night's residents at the bothy had recorded their stay (though there was no mention of Maggie) but were long gone. I ate a tin of fish and noted my passing. Swallows were feeding outside the window - hovering to hoover up insects that must have been drawn to that point by a trick of the light. I couldn't spot their nest.
Just beyond the bothy an excavator was doing some drainage work. The driver was the only person I saw all day.
Beyond Charr there were fine views of Clachnaben, a lovely little hill that I traversed on my first Challenge in 2007.
A red kite suddenly appeared, ignoring me as it searched for a target. The plovers, lapwings, curlew, grouse, LBJs and oystercatchers briefly made themselves scarce.
A brew in sight of Clachnaben (pictured) was welcome by the time I got to Miller's Bog, after which a lovely section of beech wood full of birdsong delivered me to the only road of the day.
After a few hundred metres of that road, the section past Heatheryhaugh proved to be the most demanding of the day. The path to a bridge over the Water of Dye was hard to follow. Then the bridge turned out to be a basket contraption which you step into and haul yourself across using a fixed line. I jumped in and 'cast off' only to find that the basket was secured in a secondary manner - it was padlocked to the stanchion. So I was going nowhere. The haulage ropes were a little flimsy to try to walk across, but a knee deep paddle 100 metres downstream resolved the problem.
Vague paths then led past Heatheryhaugh to join the Fetteresso Forest track network over Kerloch, at 534 metres my last decent hill on this crossing, to this excellent spot by a stream (pictured).
Kerloch proved a useful spot to catch up with messages etc, and resolve an IT problem with my blog postings. There was a good view across to the fleshpots of Banchory. Tempting, but too far away, and anyway I have a rendezvous planned here with the two unreliable Austrians! I bet they don't turn up!
Either way, it's a great spot for an eighth and final wild camp before returning to civilisation and the excitement of Thursday night's party at the Park Hotel in Montrose.
Tomorrow's entry is likely therfore to be blissfully brief.
PS The Austrians didn't turn up, so this would have been the first and only day on which I saw no other Challengers, had not Paul Myerscough and Bernie Clark turned up shortly before I turned in to savour another long sleep.
And Stefan turned up even later.
Sent from the Fetteresso Forest
Wednesday, 21 May 2014
Tuesday 20 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 12 - Tarfside to Burn of Badymicks
Route: as planned, but omitting the diversion to The Retreat, and taking a 2 km shortcut on the route up to Mount Een. A very easy but enjoyable day
Distance: 16 km (Cum: 292)
Ascent: 700 metres (Cum: 11000)
Time taken: 5.5 hrs including 1.3 hrs breaks
Weather: mist at 500 metres lifted slowly, leaving a fine sunny day
Click on the link below (Day 12) for details of my planned route:
Last night it was good to see various folk including JD and Marie, Ann and Alvar, and the other helpers at St Drostans, as well as some of the many Challengers who were passing through. Tonight will be much busier for them as the masses pass through.
The evening antics of screaming oystercatchers were replaced this morning by the sound of cooing pigeons and Andy's shuffles. And a cuckoo.
St Drostans provided a bacon butty and a selection of scones and cakes for breakfast, which was enjoyed in a leisurely fashion before starting the serious business of the day at around 9 am.
I started briefly with Rob Jones, who carried on along the road as I took the track that would lead me to Mount Battock, via the lesser summits of Mount Een (reached by a freshly bulldozed track to Craig Soales from Mile Cairn rather than by my planned route via Blackcraigs), Bennygray and Wester Cairn.
Maggie Hems was plodding along behind me and reached the summit shortly before I left at 12.30, having enjoyed a brew of hot chocolate in the shelter of the substantial windbreak.
It had been a cool morning with a persistent easterly breeze. Aided by the sun, this breeze eventually caused the low cloud to disperse, leaving another warm, sunny day suitable for t-shirts.
I'd seen lots of white cloudberry flowers (pictured) on the ascent. I may earlier have noted these as a different species but on this occasion a passing motorist (!) confirmed my guess.
Golden plovers padded up the path ahead of me, presumably leading me away from their nests.
After leaving Maggie it was an easy stroll down tracks with views towards Clachnaben (pictured) to the confluence of the Burn of Badymicks and the Water of Dye, where I set up camp exactly as planned.
It was 2.20 pm.
A lovely lazy afternoon saw me chatting to Keith, Charles and Freddie as they passed by from the Water of Dye direction, and Maggie as she followed me down Mount Battock. They were all heading to nearby Charr bothy, but I'm quite happy here.
There was no phone signal today, even from the 778 metre summit. Hopefully I'll find one tomorrow.
Sent from somewhere in the Fetteresso Forest area
Monday 19 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 11 - Ballater to Tarfside
Route: as planned
Distance: 28 km (Cum: 276)
Ascent: 1200 metres (Cum: 10300)
Time taken: 8.3 hrs including 1.9 hrs breaks
Weather: mist on Mount Keen followed by a sunny but hazy afternoon
Click on the link below (Day 11) for details of my planned route:
Bacon and sausage butties again set me up for the ascent of Mount Keen on a fine but misty morning. Sue O, on a so called rest day in Ballater, joined me for the four hour walk to the summit, where we caught up with Rob Jones and joined Mole and Andy, who had arrived in their usual energetic fashion from across the watershed.
We enjoyed half an hour on the top before the cool mist got the better of us and Sue returned to Ballater, leaving the rest of us to amble down to Tarfside via the Queen's Well and the huge monument on the Hill of Rowan.
En route on the 'yellow brick trail' we encountered flapping lapwings, a curlew, a flock of guinea fowl, large clumps of cuckoo flower, rabbits (dead and alive), oyster catchers, and much more. But the highlight was the sociable nature of the occasion. This is certainly an exceptionally sociable crossing for me.
The welcome at St Drostans was as thirst quenching as ever, as was JJ's coffee at the campsite (see picture) on a day which again required little more than t-shirts except on the summit.
Chilli and baked potatoes sorted out any pangs of hunger, and the Masons continued in its bid to quench our thirsts before we staggered back to our tents.
Sadly, too many people to mention at St Drostans and the Masons, but I'll try to add a few names tomorrow.
Sent from closer to the coast than Tarfside
Sunday, 18 May 2014
Sunday 18 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 10 - Braemar to Ballater
Route: as planned
Distance: 30 km (Cum: 248)
Ascent: 750 metres (Cum: 9100)
Time taken: 9.1 hrs including 1.6 hrs breaks
Weather: overcast and slightly threatening at first, turning into another sunny t-shirt afternoon; rain later
Click on the link below (Day 10) for details of my planned route:
Last night at the Fife was sociable as planned, though it may have been more lively at the Moorfield, where I hear the Austrian contingent was practicing its 'Ve are not Germans' sketch.
This morning brought a lavish breakfast of croissant, and bacon and sausage butties, thanks to Simon and Kat's cooker. Then I hope the house was left as I found it, as I set off past Russ Manion who was enjoying his own croissants outside the Fife.
As I neared the top of Creag Choinnich, a slightly surprised Richard Baker greeted me, out for a walk with his dog. He plans to do the Challenge again next year and asked me to pass on his best wishes to Roger Smith.
Why should he be surprised to see a Challenger on the best route out of Braemar? Because most of the ******* are too lazy to climb this small hill.
After admiring the views from the top, I was surprised to meet Ian Sommerville and David Williams coming up the back of the hill. A brief discussion revealed the error of their ways and they turned round. These two provided excellent company until, together with John Sanderson, they turned off at Connachat Cottage to head towards Gelder Shiel. That left me for the rest of the morning with David Wishart and Graham Weaver - more excellent company on this most sociable of days.
Soon after enjoying coffee and scones at the castle tearooms, I left the others to dodge the traffic on the B road whilst I took the lane past the distillery, pausing for lunch en route.
I passed the others again on the busy road where they were taking a well earned breather, before heading off through the woods and up to the minor summit of Creag Ghiubhais (486 metres - pictured near the summit). In practice this was not an entirely straightforward ascent. Knee deep heather, deep holes, large rocks and the occasional rock band were all hazards waiting for a disaster to happen. There were also flies, ants and spiky low branches, all queueing up to wreak vengeance on mankind. At least there was a cairn on top and a view through the trees towards Lochnagar and also to the high hills to the north of Ballater. The creeping azalea and dewberries that had graced yesterday's hillsides had been replaced by thickets of fruitless bilberries. Taking care with every step, I managed to get down without any mishaps. I reckon it took up to an hour and a quarter longer than the alternative route around the back of the hill that Sue and I took in 2012.
From Littlemill it then took a further hour and a quarter to reach Ballater's welcoming campsite via the scenic river path that skirts the golf course. An excellent way into Ballater.
Sue O arrived at the same time, and after the usual campsite activity - you can see our flotilla of TGOC tents in the lower picture - we set off to be sociable in town. Sadly the Alexandra was unable to find a table for us, so we chose 'India on the Green' which turned out to be the classiest Indian restaurant I've visited for some time, with a couple of extra courses thrown in while we waited for our mains. Only two other Challengers were there - Joe and Steven from Florida, who seemed to be enjoying the experience. Joe turns out to be a very accomplished walker, and is managing the Challenge (including hills like Ben Macdui) in very ordinary looking sandals. Not recommended for mere mortals!
On leaving the restaurant it was raining. Raining hard. We had a quick look for 'scenes of action', failed to find any, and returned to camp. I'll have to catch up with Humphrey, who I seem to have missed here, in Montrose.
A quick call to Sue in Manchester reveals a forecast for a lovely day tomorrow. Whoopee! Though it's bucketing down as I send this posting.
Sent from Ballater
Saturday, 17 May 2014
Saturday 17 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 9 - By Allt Garbh Buidhe to Braemar
Route: as planned, adding Carn Liath (818 metres) but omitting Morrone in favour of the Morrone Birkwood path into Braemar, as rain would have spoilt the Morrone walk
Distance: 22 km (Cum: 218)
Ascent: 600 metres (Cum: 8350)
Time taken: 6.3 hrs including 1.0 hrs breaks
Weather: a fine start, clouding over for predicted rain that arrived as I entered Braemar
Click on the link below (Day 9) for details of my planned route:
Sunshine blessed us after a warm night, the brisk breeze having dissipated as usual in the evening.
Andy Wright soon passed by. He's a fisherman - an early riser.
After a chat with Mole and Ed, who is another fan of the Pyrenees, I got going around 8 am, along the easy path to Bynack Lodge. There was no need to go all the way there, so I cut across the two little streams that eventually flow into the River Dee, and took to the grassy slopes of Buachaille Breige. It was a very easy climb, which I was happy to extend to take in a 788 metre top as well as 818 metre Carn Liath, which had a good windbreak and fine views over Deeside. I enjoyed these whilst demolishing my last tin of fish and catching up with these postings.
I then missed a trick by taking to my planned route down the Allt Cristie Beag LRT to Inverey. A couple I met on the way down confirmed that a descent via the Carn na Moine ridge would have been rather more scenic, with a lovely Alpine style finish through pine woods. Never mind.
Many Challengers must have walked down the road from Inverey today. I saw just one, Nicole, who I chatted to briefly before heading into the forest towards the Morrone Birkwood above Braemar. A delightful stroll - it amazes me how many Challengers seem to prefer to walk along the road. Quite sad really.
It started to drizzle as I approached Thornbank, the cottage that Simon and Kat have kindly lent me for the night. So I dumped my bag there and headed to the nearest tea shop to join Graham Weaver and others. Then Alastair P and Andy Walker strolled past so I joined them and many more in the Fife Arms. JJ and Alan R were both there, preparing themselves for the excitement of an evening at Loch Callater Lodge.
A visit to the outdoor shop resolved a broken spork problem, then the butcher and the Co-op provided supplies for a bit of home cooking at Thornbank while my clothes wash and dry. It was good to have a chat with Sue, who seems to be indoors working while the sun beams from an otherwise empty sky in Timperley.
Today's pictures show last night's campsite and the view to Deeside from Carn Liath as the cloud came in.
Now it's off to join the party.
Sent from Braemar
Friday 16 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 8 - Bruach Gharbh Ghaig to Allt Garbh Buidhe (Glen Tilt)
Route: as planned but starting earlier at NN 795 317, and finishing in a delectable spot at the confluence of the outflow from Loch Tilt with the stream in the main valley - NN 997 820 - about 4 km short of the ruins of Bynack Lodge
Distance: 26 km (Cum: 196)
Ascent: 600 metres (Cum: 7750)
Time taken: 9.7 hrs including 2.2 hrs breaks
Weather: high cloud was dispersed by a strengthening SW breeze, leading to a lovely sunny afternoon - requiring t-shirt and sun tan cream for much of the day, for the sixth out of eight days
Click on the link below (Day 8) for details of my planned route:
The gentle gurgle of the river drowned any snoring from the Austrian contingent, on a fine calm night that didn't require the tent door to be closed.
The early sun glinted straight into the tent through thin cloud that soon thickened on the cool morning (10C in the tent). There was no rush to start.
Philipp was soon busying himself with early morning chores whilst Markus slept on in his posh red tent. He was just vaguely awake when I left at 8 am, on the long and mainly pathless route to the 'Tarf Hotel' a rather swish mountain bothy situated at NN 926 788 beside Tarf Water. It was a good 15 km of hard graft, according to my knees. Beautiful remote country though with not a soul seen between waving off Mole and Ed, who had pitched camp just a few metres further up the valley, and greeting Andy Wright at the Tarf Hotel. I was only the second Challenger that Andy had seen since the day after he left Oban. His mate - 'Mole' - turns out to be one Jason Cole, who was somewhere nearby.
The early part of the route to Tarf involved a couple of river crossings. On both occasions the slippery rocks dumped me into the rivers, but luckily on both occasions I was able to move quickly enough to avoid wet feet.
It was very rough going as far as a little beyond the watershed near Tom Liath, but as the infant Tarf Water established itself after an area of switchbacks it became easier to stroll beside the grassy south bank. After being surprised by the numbers of bumble bees living in the heather at 700 metres, I was less surprised at the number of plovers and dippers I disturbed nesting on the bank during my riverside ramble, where today's picture was taken.
Eventually the chimney stacks came into view, disconcertingly disappearing until eventually you emerge from the river bank near the front door.
At the bothy I spent the best part of an hour lunching with Andy, during which I consulted my esteemed vetter's notes and decided to cross to the north side of the river here. It was nearly knee deep but not very fast flowing.
And as suggested by Colin Tock (said vetter) there was a vague LRT that made life a bit easier. Half an hour along here I met Gordon Green, who sploshed across the river to greet me. He was heading for the bothy, so would need to cross back later.
After passing a shed on the south of the river, the vague LRT veered away and the route down to the Falls of Tarf was a return to the earlier roughness.
A couple of guys coming up from the falls would be joining Gordon (doesn't he have a tent?) at the bothy. A gaggle of Challengers was setting up camp just near the bridge on the main track up the Tilt from which the falls can be viewed. We chatted briefly. I wasn't tempted to join them so I continued on along - for the first time today - a good path, towards Bynack Lodge.
Tempting camping spots had me thinking. Eventually I succumbed to one. "It's a cracking spot." At least, that's what Mole and Ed said when they appeared as if by magic a few minutes later, just as they had done the previous night. They had taken a high route over the Munros to the north - 30 km with 1700 metres ascent. Quite a day. Mole was cheery as ever, Ed was dead on his feet. They set up camp about 50 metres away.
Clouds are building but it's not a bad evening. I'm in view of the path so I'll close my door tonight.
There's no sign of Markus and Philipp, although I've stopped nearly 4 km short of today's target.
Sent from somewhere not too far from Braemar
Thursday 15 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 7 - Dalwhinnie to Bruach Gharbh Ghaig
Route: as planned, stopping a couple of km short at a magnificent camping spot at NN 795 817 - a brilliant day's walk over relatively easy terrain
Distance: 21 km (Cum: 170)
Ascent: 1000 metres (Cum: 7150)
Time taken: 7.1 hrs including 1.2 hrs breaks
Weather: fine but overcast, with a coolish SW breeze - excellent walking weather
Click on the link below (Day 7) for details of my planned route:
I'd been allocated a shared room with Tim Wood, but as he failed to start the Challenge despite arriving at Mallaig, Alistair P was promoted to the room with a view at Newtonmore's premier bunkhouse. Alistair's post awaited his (rather late and tired) arrival - one of a series of letter/paintings from his three year old daughter. Very sweet.
There was no rush this morning as Alistair had a short day and I needed to wait for the 9.20 bus to Dalwhinnie. Breakfast at the transport café, where David Wishart was also taking advantage of some proper food, and chats with various folk soon whiled the time away, then I was joined on the bus by Markus and Philipp, like me returning to the serious business of the Challenge after enjoying tourism in Newtonmore. £8.20 for a ten mile bus ride - a bit steep!
Markus and Philipp decided to take the 'aqueduct' route to Gaick, whilst I took the more direct way over Carn na Caim. Both are good routes, but mine proved to be rather quicker.
Mountain hares featured strongly today. They could be seen silhouetted on the horizon, and were bobbing about with their white tails, vestiges of their winter coats, looking like bobble hats stuck to their bottoms.
The easy ascent was followed by a broad grassy ridge with occasional peat hags. Some of these were still under a layer of snow, at least one of which layers was just a thin crust above a deep hole. Luckily only one leg went through, so I was able to slither out of the uncomfortable predicament.
A huge herd of deer passed as I made my way over Meall Buidhe for lunch with fine views down to Gaick and the deep cleft leading to it, as well as to Loch an Duin. There was then a lovely zigzag path down to a welcome bridge over Allt Loch an Duin.
I thought a couple of folk on the valley path would catch up when I enjoyed a brew at the stand of pines that Sue and I camped by in 2009, but after the river crossing beyond Loch Bhrodainn they headed north towards the lodge. My Saucony Hattori shoes had come in handy for the river crossing.
The next section to my fine camping spot near the waterfalls at Bruach Gharbh Ghaig was a delight. It had been raining when Sue and I walked it, but in today's fine weather the narrow path above the waterfall laden gorge was a highlight of the trip.
On the way I passed a small grass covered bridge - 'Marco's Leap - cross at your own risk'. How quaint!
There were no obvious footprints so I assumed M and P were behind and would welcome a camp at the first good spot. This appeared almost 2 km before our planned camp, but the shortfall can be easily made up tomorrow.
I therefore stopped here before 5 pm. A Challenger claiming to be 'Mole' and his non-Challenger mate Ed soon arrived, the first people I'd met since leaving Dalwhinnie. We chatted before they moved on, eschewing the early halt.
At 6.15 the Austrians finally showed up, in a very jolly mood when they took in the excellence of the site. Their tents were soon up, pictured above beyond mine, and a typical evening in camp ensued. That involves everyone very much doing their own thing, cooking, washing, etc.
It's a lovely warm, calm evening up here at about 650 metres. No rain is expected so my tent will stay open tonight.
Sent from en route to Braemar
Thursday, 15 May 2014
Carn na Caim
I'm ascending this easy hill, pictured, from the A9, with the hum of the traffic diminishing in favour of the squeals of oyster catchers and the 'habayla' of the grouse. The road and the Beauly-Denny power line are behind me, as is the breeze, as I potter along to an area of wildness that will probably relieve me of a phone signal until Saturday afternoon.
So bear with me while I enjoy an easy route with occasional company.
Bye for now.
Sent from the slopes of Carn na Caim
Wednesday 14 May 2014 - TGO Challenge - Day 6 - Lochan na h-Earba to Dalwhinnie (for Newtonmore)
Route: as planned, omitting Binnein Shuas and Binnein Shios
Distance: 29 km (Cum: 149)
Ascent: 500 metres (Cum: 6150)
Time taken: 8 hrs including 1.8 hrs breaks
Weather: sunny periods, warm
Click on the link below (Day 6) for details of my planned route:
After a slightly disturbed night due to sleep not being on the agenda of the local bird population, especially one that made a frequent curlew like trilling sound, I woke to high cloud and a windless 6C.
The glassy lochan reflected a lovely skyscape.
Having decided to ease my day by omitting the aforementioned hills - they will form the basis of an excellent day walk sometime - I spent the first few hours strolling along pleasant lochanside then forestry tracks. Geese, dippers, curlew, various other birds, and distant red deer were my only company. The first human encounters of the day were Peter and Barbara, in Dalwhinnie, on their way to the distillery.
Geal Charn was sunlit in weather that again demanded t-shirt and suntan cream. It's pictured as the backdrop to my elevenses break.
Disconcerting forestry signs requiring authorisation for entry to a small area of deserted woodland were summarily defaced.
By late morning I'd reached Lochan na Doire-uaine, a small lochan edged by a fossilised forest. This led to a rocky defile that Markus and I had negotiated a few years ago during his fine Caledonian Trail walk. It was as I remembered. A bouldery mess with deep holes and no evident path. A vetter has apparently described it as an area slashed by the lashing of a dragon's tail. It looked to me like the 'other worldly' set from a dinosaur movie. There were traces of boot prints - probably belonging to Peter and Barbara.
Once through the defile, a small river appeared, the path slowly regained its composure, and I could enjoy a second lunch (my provisions inexplicably contained two tins of fish today) in the knowledge that I would be in time for the 16.09 bus to Newtonmore.
On the way I called in at the café for coffee and cake, and met Markus and Philipp who joined me on what turned out to be a private bus ride to Newtonmore, where we are TGO Challenge 'tourists', staying at Sue and Ali's bunkhouse.
There are too many to mention here and at Dalwhinnie, but my plan for a sociable Challenge has certainly been achieved.
In particular it was good to see Louise and Laura in good spirits, the Forfar trio, Sam and Richard, Emma, Peter and Jayme, to name but a few, not forgetting Ali, Sue (en route to Montrose) and Neil at the bunkhouse.
Sent from Newtonmore
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