Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 2 - Tuesday 27 July 2004 - Stage 1
Postcard Summary:
Luxury Hotel to Col de Lizuniaga
Green and
pleasant except for tourist hubs – 7.25 hours, 17.5 km, 1100m ascent
Our first
longish day’s walk – we did fine and managed ‘guide book time’ despite stops.
La Rhune was very busy. It closely resembles Snowdon,
having a railway up it, buildings on the top, and lots of people. But unlike Snowdon
it had views from the summit! We escaped
the crowds quickly, as not many folk appear to walk. Although overpriced, the café’s sandwiches
were good. The rest of today’s walk was
largely up and down on quiet paths through hilly and woody countryside. There was some cloud, but it has cleared to a
beautiful evening. We are the only tent
(and maybe the only customers) at this bar which has extensive views.
Diary entry (by Sue)
Up at 7:20 after
vivid dreams for both of us, although only Martin ate cheese for dinner. He
dreamt that the new stove caught fire and disintegrated, and in a separate
dream that another piece of his kit was destroyed (but he can't remember
which!). I dreamt that I'd been running along streets in a dodgy area in the
rain and lost a sandal. In the few seconds after it left my foot, someone took
it, and I had to call in houses to try to get it back.
Packed up before
a sustaining breakfast of orange juice, fromage frais, three types of small
croissants and a toasted roll. Good Darjeeling
tea. Today's partial cloud was helpful, as it didn't go above 25°C.
Leaving Biriatou
at 8:55, we were soon climbing. (See top picture.) The scenery today has been green hills, covered
with bracken or trees. As we contoured round Xoldokocana, the smell of bracken
occasionally gave way to the scent of horses. Besides the road here, we could
hear the horses' bells. Above, on the skyline, the binoculars gave a closer
view of the perched fauve vulture. Several of these flew around the hills
today, together with noisy ravens. First rest at Col d'Osin, with a view towards La Rhune,
the Basque mountain in the haze.

Onwards, on good paths, next to forest for some
of the way. Quite a lot of other folk around. Still views of the coast from
here.
The Col d'Ibardin was quite
contrast - loads of cars, restaurants, shops and people. The top café provided
tea and hot chocolate, away from the melée. At the Venta Elizalde they had
'sandwitches'. A mixture of goods was advertised, as this is the French /
Spanish border.
Leaving this
behind, we were soon walking in Spain,
away from people until the top of La Rhune. Good tracks edged us nearer, then
became steeper for the main climb of about 600 metres. There are few buildings
here, until you reach the summit! Having the map enabled us to help a family of
French, who needed directing to the train. It was not, as we first thought,
back the way they'd come, but down to the col Zizkouitz and round the hill on a
small path.
Soon we rounded the last bend before the summit and mingled with the crowds from the train to look at the orientation map, then the surrounding view. The coast was sunny, and hazy mountains could be seen far into the distance. Ate pate and cheese and ham sandwiches inside, away from the cool breeze on damp clothes, then walked the steep and sunny descent, using border stones as markers.
A last stop at a
barn before reaching Col de Lizuniaga. Here, the bar-restaurant is closed,
although windows are open and there are two people inside. From 4.15 pm, we sit
at their tables, in the hope that someone will come out, so that we can ask to
camp in the garden, as the book suggests this is possible. Finally, after 5.30,
a young man left in a car. Before he did so I waved him to stop, and in my
newly learnt Spanish asked "Can we camp here?" At his "Si",
we found a sunny spot on the lawn, with views in both directions, and pitched
the tent. A brew soon followed.

At about 7.30,
we went into the bar and ordered beers and a meal. The restaurant was quiet as
we ate calamari, garlic chicken and chips, and cold rice pudding, with a bottle
of rosé. After 9, the restaurant livened up, with a party of 18, a family
celebrating a child's 8th birthday - they had walked here, and a foursome of
English people. A pleasant evening. The sun set here at about 9.15 pm. An
English rendition of Happy Birthday and some 'stay alight' candles at 9.45
pm, was the signal for bed.
Bearne Rosé -
comes in a magnificent tall bottle, and is quite nice.
Pottocks on La Rhune, with the Atlantic in the distance
Stats and route (Viewranger):
18 km, 1300 metres ascent, 7.25 hours
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