Pyrenees HRP - 2004 - Day 2

Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
 

Day 2 - Tuesday 27 July 2004 -  Stage 1

 

Postcard Summary:

Luxury Hotel to Col de Lizuniaga

Green and pleasant except for tourist hubs – 7.25 hours, 17.5 km, 1100m ascent
Our first longish day’s walk – we did fine and managed ‘guide book time’ despite stops. La Rhune was very busy. It closely resembles Snowdon, having a railway up it, buildings on the top, and lots of people.  But unlike Snowdon it had views from the summit!  We escaped the crowds quickly, as not many folk appear to walk.  Although overpriced, the café’s sandwiches were good.  The rest of today’s walk was largely up and down on quiet paths through hilly and woody countryside.  There was some cloud, but it has cleared to a beautiful evening.  We are the only tent (and maybe the only customers) at this bar which has extensive views.  
 

Diary entry (by Sue)

Up at 7:20 after vivid dreams for both of us, although only Martin ate cheese for dinner. He dreamt that the new stove caught fire and disintegrated, and in a separate dream that another piece of his kit was destroyed (but he can't remember which!). I dreamt that I'd been running along streets in a dodgy area in the rain and lost a sandal. In the few seconds after it left my foot, someone took it, and I had to call in houses to try to get it back. 

Packed up before a sustaining breakfast of orange juice, fromage frais, three types of small croissants and a toasted roll. Good Darjeeling tea. Today's partial cloud was helpful, as it didn't go above 25°C. 

Leaving Biriatou at 8:55, we were soon climbing. (See top picture.) The scenery today has been green hills, covered with bracken or trees. As we contoured round Xoldokocana, the smell of bracken occasionally gave way to the scent of horses. Besides the road here, we could hear the horses' bells. Above, on the skyline, the binoculars gave a closer view of the perched fauve vulture. Several of these flew around the hills today, together with noisy ravens. First rest at Col d'Osin, with a view towards La Rhune, the Basque mountain in the haze. 

 

Onwards, on good paths, next to forest for some of the way. Quite a lot of other folk around. Still views of the coast from here.  

 

The Col d'Ibardin was quite contrast - loads of cars, restaurants, shops and people. The top café provided tea and hot chocolate, away from the melée. At the Venta Elizalde they had 'sandwitches'. A mixture of goods was advertised, as this is the French / Spanish border. 

 

Leaving this behind, we were soon walking in Spain, away from people until the top of La Rhune. Good tracks edged us nearer, then became steeper for the main climb of about 600 metres. There are few buildings here, until you reach the summit! Having the map enabled us to help a family of French, who needed directing to the train. It was not, as we first thought, back the way they'd come, but down to the col Zizkouitz and round the hill on a small path.

Soon we rounded the last bend before the summit and mingled with the crowds from the train to look at the orientation map, then the surrounding view. The coast was sunny, and hazy mountains could be seen far into the distance. Ate pate and cheese and ham sandwiches inside, away from the cool breeze on damp clothes, then walked the steep and sunny descent, using border stones as markers.

 

A last stop at a barn before reaching Col de Lizuniaga. Here, the bar-restaurant is closed, although windows are open and there are two people inside. From 4.15 pm, we sit at their tables, in the hope that someone will come out, so that we can ask to camp in the garden, as the book suggests this is possible. Finally, after 5.30, a young man left in a car. Before he did so I waved him to stop, and in my newly learnt Spanish asked "Can we camp here?" At his "Si", we found a sunny spot on the lawn, with views in both directions, and pitched the tent. A brew soon followed.  

At about 7.30, we went into the bar and ordered beers and a meal. The restaurant was quiet as we ate calamari, garlic chicken and chips, and cold rice pudding, with a bottle of rosé. After 9, the restaurant livened up, with a party of 18, a family celebrating a child's 8th birthday - they had walked here, and a foursome of English people. A pleasant evening. The sun set here at about 9.15 pm. An English rendition of Happy Birthday and some 'stay alight' candles at 9.45 pm, was the signal for bed.  

Bearne Rosé - comes in a magnificent tall bottle, and is quite nice.
 

Pottocks on La Rhune, with the Atlantic in the distance

Stats and route (Viewranger):

18 km, 1300 metres ascent, 7.25 hours

 

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