October 1997 - The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route - Day 12 - October 22

Red fronds

Wednesday 22nd October

Porridge, paratha and fried eggs start the day on a lovely morning, except that the sun doesn't reach us until we leave camp around 8:30, despite everything being late this morning. 

Today is to be a long day. The itinerary takes us to just before the Kauri Pass, but we have decided to cross it if possible as the weather high up is becoming wintry and the ponies struggle in snow. 

It was frosty last night. The weather overall is worsening and cooling. However, we set off into bright sunshine, going above the village then steeply up through forest to a col at 9,842 feet, before descending slowly, with good views of the steep Kauri Pass.  

The view from the 9,842 ft pass

The ponies pass us here in a meadow, having made good progress so far. Girls fed by Richard have followed us to this point (2 hours' walk) and crowd around when we stop for biscuits. It's unclear whether they (~15 years old) are attracted by our food or by two nearby boys. We hope the latter.

On the ascent there were superb views back to Nanda Ghunti and Trisul. Lots of anemones hereabouts. 

Ascending to Kauri Pass

No mountains in sight beyond Kauri, but a beautiful arc of local mountains.

I'm in t-shirt and shorts and it's noticeably cooler today, but sandals are still ok. We descend through bamboo forest, with cannabis interspersed, and the usual rhododendron, sycamore, oak, etc.

En route to Kauri Pass

Pawan

Anemone

A view back down the path

Waterfall near lunch stop

Gentian

After a steep descent we lunch by a waterfall in a deep gorge. It's clouding over, and muddy, so I put on boots (a last-minute addition to my day sac in view of the Kauri Pass, and very necessary) and trousers. Whilst there is a glimpse of sun here, it is the last of the day, and we embark on the long ascent of the Kauri Pass in light rain.

It is about a 3,000 ft ascent to the pass at about 12,000 feet, possibly the highest I've ever been. During the ascent I gain half an hour on the others, arriving at the pass at 3:30. I have heard the ponies on the way up but couldn't see them struggling through the Bleaklow type mud hags due to a snowstorm.

Anil and Rocket are first on the pass, waiting for us. We can see all the way back to the Kukin Khal pass above Wan, and major Himalayan peaks poke out of clouds to the north. Lots of photos. 

                        Looking back down the path

There is quite a lot of snow. About 6 inches on top - quite hard frozen. 

On the way today we met three French and two Aussies, all of whom had missed views from the pass due to the rain.
 

We continued on a good contouring path through the snow to reach the spot where the HK itinerary photo was taken. 

That was in clear weather with blue skies. We have snow on the ground and a lot of cloud, though some peaks poke out.

I scramble to the top of a promontory and take a series of photos in an attempt at a panoramic view. Then head down. 

Views from Kauri Pass

The plan was to camp just below the pass, so as to go up to it again tomorrow for sunrise, but the snow has meant the campsite is necessarily far below, in trees, still under light snow but just about acceptable. The horse men have gone lower down - they have a day off tomorrow - but Anil, Pawan and Badwan will have a cool night in the cook tent, which has no ground sheet. It is already freezing hard, and later we all take advantage of the hot water supposedly provided for tomorrow's drinks, but really to use as hot water bottles in our Sigg bottles. (It's the first time I've done this - and it did work - I was very warm on a very cold night - also aided by a fullish clothing, long johns, and the Snowline sleeping bag.) 

We shivered for a while in the mess tent, before tomato soup and croutons took the edge off the cold. By the time we had finished with Pawan's usual array of dishes (Indian tonight) followed by tinned pineapple - they must be running out of food - we were nicely warm and in a good mood to finish Richard's Laphroaig malt whisky before adjourning with our hot water bottles under a starlit night. The camp must be at around 3,000 metres. 

Today's view, despite cloud, of the vast array of Himalayan peaks, undoubtedly ranks as the best mountain panorama I've ever seen. It was breathtaking.

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Monday 24 March 2025 - A Bike Ride to Rostherne

On a sunny Monday morning, Sue and I couldn't resist the attraction of joining Richard and Jenny on a bike ride to Rostherne and back - just a couple of hours in the saddle. The perks of retirement... Make the best of every day...

We took the canal towpath to the site of the Bay Malton by Seamon's Bridge, then Cheshire lanes to School Lane, crossing over the canal where it is blocked due to a collapsed conduit in the January storms.

It looks as if the towpath to Lymm is no longer blocked, with access for pedestrians being granted. (This section of canal is barred to cyclists for some reason - cycle along here and you incur the wrath of the Lymm Dog Walkers - though as part of the Bridgewater Way, it should surely be available to cyclists.)

The mildly undulating route took us along country lanes past Dunham Massey to Rostherne, where we enjoyed a coffee and cake break in the sunny churchyard.

Continuing in a little loop, we got a glimpse of Rostherne Mere at a point where there's a distant view of the mere. This is about as close as you can get without an observatory permit. Note the daffodils in the hedgerow, these are a constant feature of these Cheshire lanes just now.

Returning to our outward route, we passed by Dunham Massey and took a left turn by the church in Dunham Town. Down here I turned right along the Trans Pennine Trail (my preference being to avoid roads wherever possible) whilst the others took a slightly longer route through the lanes. We reassembled at Seamon's Bridge.

I was placed in front of our mini peleton as my bell is the loudest, and we pedalled without incident back home.

A lovely way to spend a couple of hours on a Monday morning. Here's the 30km route with about 130 metres ascent, taking nearly two hours.

Saturday 22 March 2025 - Stamford Park parkrun #426

This was the occasion of our friend (through the TGO Challenge) Alistair's 100th different parkrun. Quite an achievement, for which his daughters even managed to rouse themselves and take part. They have also taken part in a good number of different parkruns.

This parkrun in Stalybridge is not as well attended as those in South Manchester, with just 177 staerters today. More than usual, thanks in part to Alistair's entourage. So being baulked by other slower runners was no excuse for a slow time. But what we hadn't expected was a Hill. Long and gentle. Twice. And the second time I confess to having walked up the 12 steps and beyond.

Here we are at the start.

I was too puffed to take any pictures on the run, but I've borrowed this next picture, taken just beyond the crest of the hill. It demonstrates the terrain of this very pleasant course. It'll soon turn green.

Alistair had provided cake, and finishing in position 89, there was plenty left when I arrived.

Unusually these days, Sue finished behind me. She is nursing a niggle picked up from cross country skiing.

After waiting for Alistair's girls, we wandered along to the excellent cafe for a sociable hour or so, before heading off home in a very satisfied mood.

Full results are here. The fact that I got into the top twenty on an 'age related' basis with only 62% certainly indicates a slow (hilly) course.

Thursday 20 March 2025 - Dunham Massey Winter Garden

View from the entrance gate, with Mallards and Tufted Ducks

Various distractions have meant Dunham has missed out on our usual regular visits this year, but Thursday's nice weather and a free day enabled Sue and me to enjoy a rare visit.

On our way to the Winter Garden we passed the 500 year old oak tree.

I won't attempt to annotate all the pictures that follow, but here are a few of them:

I don't know the purpose of these little flags!

Acer griseum (says the label)

We left the garden and walked the perimeter of the walled estate. We saw no deer, but Coots and Swans were busy constructing their nests.

Given the excellent weather, this was a perfect way to spend a couple of hours on a March morning.