We
fairly quickly found Benalmadena Costa and the distinctive 'windmill'
roundabout that leads to the Royal Oasis Club - La Quinta. We checked in and
were directed to Benal
Beach, apartment 423 in
building number three.
It
took a while to orientate ourselves but we finally succeeded. This is a massive
fenced compound across the road from the beach. We found outside gardens but
not pools, before adjourning to Benalmadena and finding a pleasant restaurant.
Lots
of English bars both here and in Mijas. Very English all round, even an English
local newspaper. Obviously people want to be in an English environment, except
that they require sunny weather. Sue went to bed early whilst I watched Estonia win the
Eurovision Song Contest. UK
came about 15th.
Today's
walk was about six miles, with 200 meters of ascent and descent, done in
sandals (mine brand new Merrell 'combinations' that
are still in use in 2023.)
Sunday 13 May (Sue) [No pictures today]
It
was a lazy start with tea in bed and breakfast of muesli and yoghurt on the
balcony overlooking the hills. The balcony also overlooks a roof and a lot of
other buildings, but they are best ignored.
Before
breakfast, I'd continued the quest to find the swimming pool. For a time, more
blind alleys on various floors. An English couple finally resolved the problem
and soon I was swimming alone in a pool that hadn't yet fully warmed. It was
the highest of four pools. A short slide led to a shallow pool, and a long
slide to a lower deeper pool. Finally, there was a shallow 'kiddies' pool.
After
12 lengths I got out, the goggles from Christmas finally christened. Prior to
the 'Welcome meeting' we'd been advised to attend, we sat on a grassy slope in
the sun by the pools.
The
detail of the meeting is best forgotten. It was held in the clubhouse at La Quinta,
where the loudspeakers worked inside but not outside. There were lots more reps
than usual for the nasty job of selling, not just helping. Two invitations came
our way - one for free sangria that evening, and the other for a presentation
at 10am on Tuesday. Of that, more later.
After
an early escape, we strolled in the beautiful park opposite the apartment
blocks. Families were strolling around, with children in their Sunday best. Animals
and birds were everywhere - caged rabbits with several babies, budgies, parrots,
white doves, finches. In larger pens - goats, deer, and ibex like mammals. All
were very tame. The lake, with its huge central fountain, was home to several
pelicans and terrapins, whose heads were just visible when they were floating
in the water.
Back
for lunch on the balcony, followed by a lazy afternoon on the grassy slope by
the pools for me, and for Martin, the excitement of the Grand Prix from Austria. This
was won by David Coultard. I managed
to summon the energy for a swim, but was happy to lie back in the sun again.
We
both read in the apartment until 7 ish, then walked along the road to the
marina in Benalmadina. It was a pleasant stroll around the edge of the water,
surrounded by expensive boats. The apartments were fairly monstrous, with one
having towers resembling Mr Whippy ice cream.
'Too
Much' pizzeria had a good location by the water, but their service was too slow
and we moved on before ordering even a drink. The Pizzeria La Parolaccia
offered a table overlooking the marina. Their salads were excellent, followed
by pizza / seafood pasta.
On
the return we made a good discovery - a promenade beneath the road and behind
the beach, which made for a much more romantic stroll home.
Monday 14 May (Martin)
After
a lazy Sunday, Monday was to prove altogether more active. Away around 9am, we
drove past Marbella
to Nerja, and on to the Cueva de Nerja - huge caverns, 32 metres long, one with
a pillar with a base which measures 13 x 7 metres. The ancient cave paintings
are fading so have been withdrawn from view. Regardless, the caves, which were
rediscovered by children in 1959, are magnificent.
After
a welcome coffee, we set off at 12 noon on walk number 10 in the Sunflower
landscapes guide. It took nearly six hours to cover the 10.5 miles, including
breaks. A lovely day and a good walk. After first negotiating a new road, the
walk up the wooded Barranco de la Coladilla was beautiful. I won't repeat the
book's excellent description, but I can note the following:
- we did see Hoopoes and
Eagles
- there is a new
dwelling going up at Cortijos de la Civilia, which area is certainly used
for farming almonds and other produce
- the thin descent path
descending from 15 minutes beyond Cortijo Almachares would certainly be
easier in long trousers
- lots
of deer seen today
On
return to the car we decided to return home by a scenic route. We drove up to
Frigiliana, where we strolled around the old town. It seemed still out of
season. Some restaurants were shut. Drinks on a terrace, but we didn't eat
there as it was expensive and full of noisy children. Eventually we dined on a
terrace at Jaime restaurant. Not really very friendly. Food mediocre. Good
views over the new town and down to Nerja. Lots and lots of crops growing under
plastic sheets in this area - possibly tomatoes. Acres and acres of them.
We continued by an interesting belvedere road with views of a uniformly red sunset, before dropping back to the main road to Malaga at Torrox. This is a fertile and well inhabited area. It's a bit of a puzzle how everyone gets home - there must be lots of narrow tracks and four-wheel drive vehicles.
We drove 190 km today. Later, earplugs essential to drown the beat from the bar.
Tuesday 15 May (Martin) [200km today]
The
day was dominated by the shock and trauma of arriving back tonight to a bill
for 100,000 ptas (£400) pushed through the door. We missed a presentation today,
which we had no idea that a penalty attached for non-attendance. All the staff
had gone, as had our 6pm deadline for payment - by the time we got to La Quinta
reception at 6:30pm. So this unfortunate matter is left as a festering sore in our
minds until tomorrow.
Up
to then we had enjoyed a good if somewhat cloudy day in Ronda. We took the
motorway to San Pedro, then the windy road up the mountain and through the
cloud to Ronda. Sue will describe what we saw there, but the lunch in the main square
outside Bar Banana was not the greatest gastronomic delight of the holiday,
though the bananas were fairly fresh. It was the food highlight of the day, as
the incident back at Benal
Beach has put us off our
food. Sue had a swim and we walked down the 'prom' on a lovely evening. Are we
gullible mugs, naive or what? At least it's not so noisy tonight (yet).
(Sue's
entry)
I'm
recalling Tuesday's visit to Ronda on Saturday morning.
We
parked in an underground car park and emerged into a square near the bullring. Had
coffee before looking around. Ronda is perched on the top of a hill, with a
gorge running through the centre. There are three bridges spanning it, and
great views from the town's edges. It was here that we started our wanderings,
admiring the neatly farmed rolling hills around. We got views over to the old town,
which we accessed via the tallest bridge. The palace housing the museum was a
delight. Courtyards from various eras, a superb display of cave dwelling, and a
mock ancient hut dwelling. The garden, right on the cliff edge, was tranquil
and provided lots of interest in sculptures.
Further
wandering led us past churches, towers, and through narrow streets to the
gateway on the edge of the old town.
A
path next to the old walls took us down to the upper end of the gorge, to find
the smallest and oldest of the three bridges.
We
crossed the river on the middle bridge, and climbed up on one side of the river as
it descended. Good views up and down the deep gorge, but a bit smelly.
Martin
mentioned lunch, which started well but the standard declined markedly with
each course. The location was good though!
It
was unfortunate that the day was not hotter, although by now the sun was
breaking through occasionally, because we walked down and back up a steep path
for views of the bridge. The path was ablaze with red poppies and yellow shrubs.
Our attempts to get even lower than the viewing spot were thwarted by
overgrowth.
Icecreams
were welcome, then it was time to view the oldest bullring in Spain. The display of history of
bullfighting was interesting - it started as a sport on horseback. Ronda, it
appears, breeds a particular style of horse, different from bullfighting elsewhere. It
was attractive, with circular benches and red gates where the bulls enter. There
was a system involving pulleys to release bulls from the holding pens. Unfortunately,
the peace was shattered by workmen reconstructing the benches.
We
headed off back to Benalmadina over hills no longer covered in cloud, even
stopping to view the metal monument at the highest point.
Our
return was greeted by the bill that has been described.
On
return home, one of my bosses informed me that the Puerto Banus to Ronda road has
featured in a '10 best drives in the world' article - M.
Wednesday 16 May (Sue)
Tea
was on the early side as neither of us had slept very much, with the knowledge
that we had to extricate ourselves from a £400 bill. All the arguments had gone
round in our heads since 6:30pm yesterday.
Breakfast
was forced down, and then we strolled around the park until 9 o'clock. At La Quinta
reception we were told that the GVC rep wouldn't arrive until 9:30. The
suspense continued as we waited
They
did, however, arrive at 9:30 and to our surprise were apologetic about the
letter and were not confrontational. It appeared that the rep was new and
shouldn't have delivered the letter at all. All our arguments lined up were not
even needed. An appointment was arranged for 3pm that afternoon, which
conveniently left Thursday and Friday for a trip to Granada.
We
left in a now very relieved state, with a relaxing day ahead.
A
visit to the Sea Life Centre certainly took our minds off a very traumatic few
hours. The fish were excellent. There were rays, sharks, turtles, clownfish,
tangs, and a superb section housed six or so tanks of seahorses of different
varieties.
Afterwards,
we sat at a marina-side table to watch the world go by.
Back
for lunch on the balcony, which was cool and shady on a very hot day.
The
presentation was an informal chat from Don, the oldest rep for GVC. He
acknowledged we weren't going to buy anything, so didn't try to sell. We got
away at 4pm and spent the rest of the afternoon lying in the warm sun by the
pool. A swim completed the relaxation. Dinner was excellent, at one of the fish
restaurants behind the beach. Mussels and sardines to start, and a superb
seafood paella, which included langoustines, lots of cockles, crab and prawns.
An
early night after a stroll along the front and back.
Benalmadina Harbour
Thursday 17 May (Martin)
By
8:15, and after a much better night's sleep, we were on the road to Granada on a fine and
sunny day. This was a lovely drive on motorway roads with significant hills. Lots
of olive groves and distant views of snow-capped mountains - the Sierra Nevada.
After 2½ hours and 165
kilometers we were parked in the Alhambra
car park - an extortionate 200Ptas (£1) per hour. We decided to leave our visit
till tomorrow, having established that tickets are available from 8am.
A walk down the hill actually
led us into the Alhambra,
but we saved the delights for later and headed down through the walled gates. The
first hostel we came to - Hostel Landazuri** - had a room for 3800Ptas (£15)
and parking for 1500Ptas (£6), which seemed reasonable. so we got the car - venturing
down the road reserved for taxis and buses - and were installed in this
overnight abode by 12:45.
We headed into a square
just below the hostel area, then upstream into the Sacramento district, which is an old gypsy
neighbourhood with homes built into the rocky hillside. We stopped for lunch on
a bench in blazing sun looking across the gorge to the Alhambra
and the mountains beyond, and forward over the expanse of urban Granada.
We then toured the old
district of Granada before gravitating to the Archaeological Museum
(free entry), whose two stars were somewhat generous. We were knackered but at
least it was cooler in here. The artefacts comprised mainly human bones
recovered from burial sites - these vary from elaborate chambers to small urns
full of bones. There were lots of sharpened stones worked into axe / arrowheads,
saws and all manner of other instruments. Unfortunately the only benches in the
place were occupied, so we had to make do with sitting on the stairs.
We adjourned for a welcome
large beer in the main square near the hostels. (Lack of names due to us having
lent our guide book before this diary entry was attempted.)
Then we strolled in heat to
the magnificent cathedral. An immense interior, and cool. Followed by the Chapel
Royal which was more highly rated than the Cathedral but did not impress us as
much. We then went to some gardens next to the Alhambra. These were very pleasant. We found
a little canal then a tower from which views were enjoyed. Then back to Landazuri
before going back to the old district, just over the hill, to El Ladrillo 11 restaurant
where we enjoyed a good meal inside, so pleasantly cool despite a little rain.
A very relaxed part of town, this. Then views and photos of the Alhambra before returning
and adjourning.
Friday 18 May (Martin)
Today we were to visit the Alhambra and return to base via the Sierra
Nevada. After a standard breakfast we nipped up the hill to get
our tickets, only to find we couldn't go into the Alhambra until the afternoon.
So. [We got there eventually, in 2019!]
Off we went to the Sierra
Nevada, not a little disappointed to have been denied entry to Granada's main attraction!
We stopped for a while at Pampeneira
- drinks/museum, then headed up to the road head at Capileira. Walk number 3 in the Sunflower Guide - the shorter
walk: La Cebadilla, took up the next three to four hours, quite a bit of it
subject to somewhat cloudy weather. It was an excellent stroll, and before
reaching the cloud zone we had a most enjoyable lunch with bits from the local
supermarket, and enjoyed watching some ants very efficiently transport our
crumbs to a location quite some way off.
The stroll through the
cloud zone wasn't bad either - a nice rising path. Only a couple of other
people were met, before crossing over a bridge to La Cebadilla. Past the hydroelectric
plant and various dilapidated buildings (which would make excellent bunkhouse /
holiday cottage accommodation if renovated) before drifting downhill towards Capileira,
following the precise instructions in the guidebook. For a lot of the way we
followed a largely enclosed (underground) water course, presumably used lower
down for irrigation.
Lots of 'eras' on this
route - stone circles - not sure what they are for.
Eventually the valley
reappeared below and to our right, and round a corner the town came into view.
The atmospheric cloud conditions led to excellent photos of the buildings shrouded
in mist.
Here's the comparison between film (above) and slide (below).
So by mid afternoon we were
back in the Fiat Punto and on our way back to Benalmadena, via Orgiva and Velez
de Benaudalla, reaching the coast at Mitril and driving pleasantly along the
coast road to Nerja, and back via the new motorway.
(270 km for the day.)
For our last evening we
revisited the same pleasant (English) restaurant in Benalmadina as we had
visited the previous Saturday, for an averagely uneventful meal.
Saturday 19 May (Martin)
A reasonably early start
took us back to Malaga Airport for a fairly prompt return flight to Manchester. A quick shower,
then a dash up the M6 got us to Coniston by 5pm, in plenty of time to book into
an excellent B&B and adjourn to the car park to wait for a coach that would
take us to Brandwood to Jo and Richard's wedding reception before they headed
off to Andalucia with a selection of our guidebooks.
