Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Saturday 25 April 2015

Saturday 25 April 2015 - Hill of Persie

The Hill of Persie rises gently to the left of the A93 road just north of Bridge of Cally. I wouldn't say it's a 'fine' hill, but it provided me with a bit of exercise on a day of 343 miles on the road. 

My route card (lost en route so I can't refer to it) said it was a 3 km round trip, but after turning back after 100 metres due to an ankle rub from new boots, my trainer clad feet had recorded 3 km by the time I reached the corner of a wall that marks the summit. It's pictured above.

Conditions were fairly dry, though I was told later that there had been a  blizzard here whilst I'd been enjoying coffee and cake in Dunkeld, from where I'd been commissioned to collect some library books and jewellery. So the trainers didn't get as wet as they had done earlier in Penrith. I had failed to drive past the attractions of a parkrun there, despite a brisk westerly and driving rain. It was probably a mistake to break my journey in that way as I aggravated an old injury that has resulted in a sore buttock and an old man's hobble.

The Hill of Persie brought back to me the vast difference between walks on random Scottish hills and Lake District rambles along professionally manicured pathways that present minimal problems. So on today's pathless terrain, including a hidden 'clash' - a deep gash in the hillside - great care was needed to avoid traps such as holes, bogs, and impenetrably deep heather. The middle picture is a view from the summit. 

The wild flowers were in good form today, with lots of primroses (pictured, bottom) and a smattering of wood anemone, wood sorrel and wood violets.

I arrived in Braemar at 6.30 as planned and after installing myself at Thornbank Cottage - thanks Simon and Kat - I soon located Kate at Rucksacks Braemar to deliver JJ's trunk.

Haddock and chips and a pint of Cairngorm Gold, together with excellent bread and butter pudding, rounded the business end of the day at Gordon's. 

Friday 24 April 2015

Thursday 23 April 2015 - Martin's Mini Plod - Suitable for Tortoises


This was billed as a morning walk for more dilapidated members of the East Lancashire Lodge of the Long Distance Walkers Association. By no means a ‘Long Distance Walk’!

“Meet at Bury Metro Station (SD 804 105) at 10.30 am for a muddled (perhaps muddied) route via Greenmount to the Hare and Hounds in Holcombe Brook.” said the flier, “approx 10 km (6 miles)”.

And so it was, apart from the mud. We even failed to miss any turns or manage a ‘Martin’s Meander’ – apart from an enforced diversion due to a path closure.

From Bury Metro terminus we soon found our way past nesting swans to a bridge over the Irwell. Here’s the view towards Bury. All very green and fresh, despite being a few metres from the town centre – but can you spot the shopping trolley?


Soon after a tea and cake break by the pedalling cyclist (pictured above) and his two henchmen (Laurel and Hardy), we abandoned the easy stroll along the disused railway in favour of some ducking and diving beside Kirklees Brook. Here’s today’s team, including John’s mate, Les, who hadn’t been for a walk for six months and had been told it would be three miles on the flat! Whatever is the LDWA coming to?!


Much to my surprise, we managed to stick to my convoluted plans until reaching a barrier near Tower Farm. Work was clearly under way, so we headed off in another direction.


That led to a slither down a bank with good handholds (roots) and a splash across the Brook. I think we all kept our feet dry though, and there was certainly no mud after a couple of weeks of fine weather, though the lesser celandine, butterbur, forgetmenots and other flowers were rampant.


Those of us who take part in the ‘Two Crosses’ challenge walk recognised the view below – the viaduct at the end of the reservoir is crossed near the end of that 26 mile walk.


My planned route passed right next to Tower Farm, but the diversion took us a little further from it. The tower looks recently refurbished.


Nearby, an emu seemed to be enjoying slightly squalid conditions.


Across the railway and around the golf course at Greenmount, the temperature rose and the Peel Tower above Ramsbottom drew closer.


Now we were well and truly on the Two Crosses route in reverse. I hadn’t noticed this when planning the route, so it was rather odd to find we were walking on familiar paths. It was a glorious summery day.


Soon we reached Redisher Vale, where we left the Two Crosses route that descends abruptly down the bank pictured straight ahead.


The area is full of industrial heritage. Here we passed a barrier that may have been part of a water power installation.


Slightly more recent, this Massey Ferguson TE35 Gold attracted Alan’s attention. Perhaps he built it?


After 10 km and 2.5 hours or so we came upon the Hare and Hounds at Holcombe Brook at 1pm – time for a welcome beer and a bite to eat in the garden, after as pleasant a morning stroll as you could imagine.

Here’s our rather convoluted route:


After lunch, the two Johns and Les sidled off, and Alan and I took advantage of the wonderful weather to stroll back down the disused railway line to Bury.


Crossing the bridge pictured earlier beside the reservoir, young mallards were scooting energetically below us – a handful for their mum, and the first mallard chicks I’ve seen this year.

The town centre of Bury had a holiday feel to it, with people lazing in the sunshine near the impressive memorial to Robert Peel.


We hastened past, to return to the Metrolink and our tram back to Manchester.

Here’s our 7 km route, taking an hour and a quarter.


Thanks for your company, folks. That was an excellent little outing.

Tilley Endurables Limited


I wrote about ‘A Tale of Three Tilleys’ on 1 March 2010. That posting contained images of my old Tilley hat, and a bright shiny new one provided by Cotswold. The new one looked identical to the hat shown above on the left. To its right, and below, is that same hat (the one pictured as new in 2010), now looking like the five year old hat pictured back then.

Last week I trotted back to Cotswold with the worn out hat. Unfortunately they were unable to give me a new one. This time they referred me to Tilley’s website. How times have changed! But not that much. It was easy to locate and print the requisite returns note and put the hat in an envelope to Tilley Endurables Limited together with a cheque for £6 for postage and packing.

The hat on the left arrived by return of post.

If I survive another five years, I have little doubt that the hat on the left will look like the one on the right, as each of my previous three hats seems to have lasted just about five years before disintegration has set in. Had I needed to buy the replacement it would have cost me £65 (up from £51 five years ago).

A big thanks to Tilley, therefore, for honouring their lifetime guarantee for the third time. This really should be some comfort to those shelling out £65 for their first hat. You can do it in the knowledge that the one-off payment will secure ‘a hat for life’, even if it may occasionally need replacing free of charge if it wears out.

The hat, by the way, is an excellent product – an item I wouldn’t be without for summer walking. The best you can get.


Tuesday 21 April 2015

18 and 19 April 2015 – A Trip To High House Tarn


My beautifully crafted contemporaneous entry disappeared into the ether on Saturday night, so here’s a more retrospective effort. This was my first backpacking trip since last year's TGO Challenge, and Sue's first for six years. We were supposed to be checking our gear prior to this year's TGO Challenge, but the weather put paid to that. It was very different to what we expect to be thrown at us in Scotland in May.

However, we proved that Sue can still shoulder a reasonably light rucksack, so the main objective of the trip was achieved. Alan and Sheila joined us.They bring good luck with Lake District weather. Coffee and tea cakes at the Farm shop on the Kendal by-pass got us in the mood for a slow swoop up the Langdale valley, where an athletics event, the Langdale 10km race, was in full flow. But thanks to the farmer at the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel there was plenty of parking space for everyone and we were soon on our t-shirted way up the path to Loft Crag.

Here we are, setting off from behind the Old Dungeon Ghyll Hotel shortly before noon.


Raven Crag glinted in the sun, Dungeon Ghyll was crossed, and below us the large group of runners set off on their 10km race. We headed up towards Pike Howe, before turning left up Mark Gate, from where there's a good view back down the Langdale valley. The trees in the valley are just gaining their spring foliage, so at last the season is visibly changing from the cold winds of winter to the warm breezes of summer.


Windermere came into view, as did Blea Tarn, pictured below during one of our many pauses during the steep 600 metre ascent.


It was a day spent under a bright blue sky with lots of happy people smiling at each other and offering pleasantries to strangers.

Lunch was taken below Loft Crag, with good views across to the Langdale Pikes. Sue and I enjoyed our first outdoor brew for some time in a spot sheltered from the cool breeze. Then we summited Loft Crag and strolled on to the distinctive cone of Pike of Stickle.

Here's Sheila with Pike of Stickle, from Loft Crag.


There were lots of fell runners about. Some were training, others we thought may have been on an orienteering exercise. We found one of their tally points on the top of Buck Pike, as we wandered over Black Crags on our way to Rossett Pike, but we later discovered that the event wasn’t being held until the following day.

From Pike of Stickle we enjoyed good views across to Esk Pike, Great End, Allen Crags, Great Gable and Glaramara, to name but a few.

Then we descended to Stake Pass, admiring the bulk of distant Skiddaw whilst Alan replenished his water supply and Sue foraged for brown trout.

Making our way towards Rossett Pike, with a backdrop of Bowfell, Sue was intrigued and puzzled by a man in lycra who ran past. “Did you notice his white underpants?” she remarked. Turning around to watch him disappear towards the pass, there was a glint of white through the lycra. Perhaps he wasn’t wearing any underpants at all?

From Black Crags we admired the view down Mickleden.


Buck Pike summit, and its orienteering point in preparation for the following day’s event, came and went. We took another break on Rossett Pike, before Angle Tarn came into view and we descended past folk lounging in the sunshine beside the Tarn. Then on the climb up by Tongue Head, we met a cheerful group of thirty as they descended, apparently on a training walk for a charity event.

From our high point on Allen Crags, Keswick and Skiddaw shimmered in the distance, whilst to our left Sprinkling Tarn and the Gables glinted in the afternoon sunshine.

We were aiming to camp in the dip below us, nearly half way along the broad ridge to Glaramara. And so, over the final summit of High House we scrambled, before reaching a fine camping spot beside the eponymous tarn.

Soon the tents were up and brews were on, with the dome of Great Gable looming in the distance from the inside of our tent.


Tea brewed, we then enjoyed soup in the sunshine, any wind having disappeared, leaving us to admire the reflections on the glassy tarn. Nearby, a man and his small dog kept their own counsel, coming near us to watch the sunset but not deigning to pass the time of day.

High House Tarn - a brilliant spot to camp, with sun beaming into the tents whilst reflections danced across the tarn.


Sue knocked up a fish supper. I’m afraid to say though that the brown trout tasted very much of tuna.
Dusk arrived, and considering the clear sky, it was a lovely sunset.


With the others in bed soon after 8.30, I thought that was a bit early so my torch was dug out of my dry bag and I set off towards Glaramara, a couple of kilometres further along the broad ridge. The red sky behind Great Gable was stunning, and I wandered slowly over the intermediary summits of Lincomb Head and Looking Stead before visiting both tops of Glaramara in fading light.

The lights of Keswick glimmered far below as I paused to try to send a picture to my blog. It didn’t appear to transmit, but I later discovered that it had done, at the first attempt. It looks dark even then! (Here)

Unfortunately the introduction of a second draft email on the new S5 phone seemed to have resulted in the deletion of a long entry that I’d been writing during the evening, as I didn’t want to have to spend ages writing my ‘diary’ (this blog) when I got home.*

Never mind, it was a lovely evening, albeit once the last glimmers of red had disappeared it was pitch black. The only light in the sky for a while was a bright planet, Jupiter I thought – but it may have been Venus (either way it didn’t shed any light on the Glaramara paths), lounging above Great Gable. As I made my way carefully back to camp, navigating with the aid of this planet, the sky slowly filled with a myriad of pinpricks of light from a seemingly infinite array of stars.

I was surprised to see lights outside our tents when I got back soon after ten o’clock. Sue had panicked. When I had asked her to root out my spare torch I should have told her that I did intend to use either that one or the one that was already in my pocket, and that “I may be some time”. I do apologise (again) to Alan and Sheila for being woken by Sue, who thought I must have fallen down a hole (or something!). Anyway, luckily I was back before anyone else set off in search of me and did actually fall down a hole. It was great to be out on such a lovely night – that brought back many happy memories. Should do it more often!

Here's the day's route, 16 km, 1500 metres ascent, moving time 5.25 hours. (Those who didn't visit Glaramara walked about 12 km, with a bit less time and ascent.)


Sunday 19 April - we woke to a cold, cloudy day. Alan and Sheila's tent had shipped some ice overnight; it had been cold.


By 8.15 am we’d breakfasted and packed up. I think we’d kept Alan and Sheila waiting, but it’s not too shabby a time to have started, after having put our first brew on at 7 am.

We returned to the top of Allen Crags then ascended Esk Pike, with views towards brighter weather to the west (Eskdale), where the Scafells were bathed in sunshine.


It was pretty cool on Esk Pike, from where we admired views towards the Langdale Pikes and Windermere. After visiting the summit of Pike de Bield we ambled down to Ore Gap and the bouldery ascent of Bowfell, at the top of which we found an orienteering point and a number of competitors. These people, many in shorts, buzzed to and fro past us all day in search of ‘points’. We admired their fitness with a degree of envy.

Meanwhile, Sue and I had donned overtrousers to deter the rainclouds that were encroaching from the east, and to combat the cold, as we headed down Bowfell to Three Tarns and onwards towards Crinkle Crags. The overtrousers worked, and the threat of rain slowly subsided. It was bright and clear out to the west, with the Isle of Man seemingly very close across a narrow stretch of the Irish Sea.

After  following the frequently cairned path over the summits of Shelter Crags and Crinkles numbered Two to Five, we averted our eyes from the excellent view down towards Little Langdale and concentrated on descending the Bad Step, described by Wainwright as “the most difficult obstacle met on any of the regular walkers’ paths in Lakeland”.

I’m usually nervous in such places, but not here – it’s really very easy, especially if you pass/throw any walking poles and rucksacks down to the bottom. Even Sue managed to get down without incident, though I have been entertained in the past by folk who don’t spot the easy route.


From between the First and Second Crinkles, Crinkle Gill leads down to Oxendale. You can see the dodgy weather to our east, but thankfully the rain stayed in sight but out of reach.


After wandering over our final (First) Crinkle, Sue and I headed across to Stonesty Pike, then back to the easy bump of Great Knott, before descending to join Alan and Sue near Red Tarn.

Runners were coming and going in all directions as we tucked into our lunches – tuna picnics for me and Sue; home made salads for Alan and Sheila.

The original plan had involved a there and back visit from here to Pike of Blisco, but we saved that for another day and set off down the paved path into Oxendale.

Here’s the start of the path, near Red Tarn, with Bowfell above Sue's head.


The end was in sight, but it was still a tiring descent to the valley, albeit still with fine views, especially looking across to Hell Gill and Bowfell.

Alan was with us. That meant tractor spotting. This David Brown was my favourite.


Sue prefers 'Lamb Spotting' – you’ll have to visit the slideshow for that picture.

By the time we got back to the ODG at around 2.30 pm, Sheila was desperate for a glass of wine, which she enjoyed in warm sunshine outside the hotel in between bouts of photography with a miscellany of cameras and ‘phones.


In fact we all enjoyed a tipple of our choice, and lazed here, taking in the ambience, for quite some time before an easy journey home.

Today's route - 14.4 km, 700 metres ascent, moving time 5 hours.


So, a successful little outing in excellent company, with Saturday being memorable for its perfect weather and a great wild camping spot.

I’ve uploaded a few more pictures (67 in total), and the slideshow can be viewed in a few clicks from here.

Alan has also written an excellent report and slideshow – here.


* For Samsung S5 users: I can only explain this problem, that has now happened to me twice, as arising from an accidental swipe to the left before opening the draft email. This gives a ‘Delete’ or ‘Undo’ option, and in the dark or in a hurry it would be easy to brush ‘Delete’ on the screen. Great care is therefore needed. On the other hand I’ve found some old drafts have been saved although the relevant emails have been sent and finished with. I like the phone, but getting the best out of it and avoiding certain pitfalls is something of a challenge. Next up – how to load my Anquet maps to the phone…