This was a first visit to Madeira, where we were invited to join Alan and Christine's celebration of their 25th wedding anniversary. I have subsequently visited Madeira five further times, recorded here apart from a 2005 trip that needs to be transcribed in the same manner as this one.
Probably of limited interest, this is one of my 'For the Record' postings, and cataloging of a record of digital images that has enabled me to discard a bulky scrapbook. The images are a mixture of pictures taken with an old film camera and with our original Olympus digital camera. The diarist's name is in brackets. Click on any image for a slideshow.
Monday
(Martin)
TCX 680 - Thomas Cook's
Boeing 757-200 to Madeira, left
The weather is warm. We unpacked (we are here
in one place for a whole week!) and then strolled up the hill to Caniço, where
the supermarket relinquished some milk and tea bags and other provisions. The
room we have has a small kitchen - like the apartment we had in
After a lazy afternoon we met Alan and
Christine in the bar at 6pm. Nice that it was still light - we get an extra 2
hours compared with the
We adjourned to eat outside a nearby
budget restaurant. Espada (a fish with soft flesh) for me and Sue; steak for
most of the others. Lots of red wine, coffee and brandy. Very good value at €25
per couple. (With a beer kitty left over!)
Later than of late to bed - around 11:00 pm.
Tuesday (Sue)
Enjoyed time after
breakfast doing some cross stitch, and Martin doing Lakes planning. It was
mostly cloudy. I ploughed a few lengths of the indoor pool - nice except for
the tunnel in the middle, only really wide enough for one swimmer. At 10:30, a
short meeting in the Chimney Room with Georg and a glass of
We planned to go to Funchal to explore, and caught the 12:10 bus along with
Richard and Christine. Alan and Chris got on after the centre of Caniço. The
journey took 35 to 40 minutes and stuck to the local roads rather than the
motorway.
We decided to
have lunch together and after getting off the bus near the electricity museum we
walked through the town, stopping to look at the market. On the lower floor,
flowers, wicker, birds in cages, and the fish section - long black scabbard,
and huge chunks of tuna. On the upper floor, veg and fruit, including huge
avocado and custard apples.
(Martin)
Apparently the
black scabbard is a local fish only found in these waters. It lives deep - 1000
metres + deep. So they fish it by dropping cables with fishing lines attached.
Each cable has 100 lines, and they can tell by the weight when to haul the
cable back up.
The six of us
found a quiet square for lunch - omelettes / hamburger / sandwiches - quite tasty. Then we
all went our own ways. Sue and I visited the old town before spending an hour or
so in the
Then back to Gaviao
Novo restaurant - we were dragged in by a woman standing outside. Sue had
grilled sardines; I had swordfish. We had to be careful not to be ripped off.
After that it
was dark, so we returned for an hour's wander around the town to admire the
Christmas lights. They were very impressive.
Then we caught
the 8pm bus back to Caniço de Baixo, where we rendezvoused with the other six
in an open air bar half way between Chris and Alan's apartment and our hotel. It
was quite cool but I was fine in open sandals and a sweatshirt. Alan had a
pullover - he said it was the first time he had used it.
Wednesday
(Martin)
After another nice
breakfast we embarked on a 6½ hour circular walk from the Royal Orchid Hotel.
Much of it was on roads, but Sue and I enjoyed it (only
the two of us went) as it is a Bank Holiday here and the roads were very quiet.
9:25 - leave hotel
10:00 - Caniço
11:00 - Point 582 trig point
11:30 - supermarket near Camacha
11:45 to 12:15 - wicker factory
12:15 to 12:25 - cobbled street
12:25 to 13:10 - Levada dos Tournos
(through two tunnels to a viewpoint)
13:10 to 13:30 - path down to Levada do Caniço
13:30 to 14:30 - Levada do Caniço
14:30 to 15:55 - return by road to Royal
Orchid via café (20 mins) and Caniço.
[Ascent - 695 metres, descent - 695
metres, Time - 6:30.
Whilst most of the way to Camacha was along minor roads, there were also steep pathways by way of shortcuts.
A short diversion took us to point 582, where Sue climbed the 'Trig Point' but the views were limited due to trees.
It was a lovely sunny day - 20-25°C, and
we did get lots of excellent views to the southern coast of the island. We
passed lots of colourful flowers.
The basket factory was a tourist trap but
was quiet. On the way we passed what looked like a council estate. Very small
terraced houses, but most with cars (on HP?) outside.
We found other people here, took our photos, and returned to rejoin the steep path down to the Levada do Caniço. Steep and slithery, through the hamlet of Salgados, first on a cobbled path but eventually on slithery rocks, to arrive at 1:30 at the levada.
The guidebook indicated about 1½ hours to
the turn off to Assamada, but it took only around an hour. There were other
people using the route, in both directions, including a couple of lads on
mountain bikes. Gunshots were also heard at frequent intervals. It was mostly
quite easy but there were a couple of sections with steep drops.
It was hot in Assamada. We walked through the village and found a café which sold us two bottles of orange 'BriSol' (fresh orange juice) and two ham sandwiches for €3.20. Some ubiquitous custard cakes were thrown in for free. Four macho looking men in a four-wheel drive arrived. One carried a smart handbag, another sported a finely permed head of hair! It was an easy walk from there along the road back to the Royal Orchid via Caniço. Christine later told us we could have descended directly to the hotels from Assamada.
After a shower (sauna for Sue) we made our way up to Chris and Alan's swish apartment for a couple of hours chat and nibbles, before continuing on up for a nice meal - most of us had pork fillet - at Restaurant Isidro in Caniço. Chris and Alan, and Sue and I, enjoyed the walk back afterwards, but the others were relieved to find Delta at home and ready to oblige for the short journey.
Thursday (Martin)
There was a lovely red sunrise, followed by a good breakfast.
The Western Tour,
with Patricia, in a Mercedes minibus, began for all eight of us at 9:30 and
ended at 5:15, after which we stayed in our room as Sue was sick.
The route was basically Car Tour 5 in the Sunflower guide. On a cloudy day, our first stop was at Cabo Girao, at 580 metres, apparently the second highest sea cliffs in the world, the others being nearly 700 metres in Japan. It was a long vertical drop, with a small area of terracing at the bottom.
Then we stopped at Ribeira Brava (church with chandeliers, small fort) which has the biggest river on the island, and has been washed away by it. The river was very low today.
After that we headed up to 1000 metres at Encumeada (sea views north and south) just under the cloud.
Down to Sao Vicente before losing the tourist trail of buses by going up beyond Chao da Ribeira, for lunch at a cold restaurant. The trout was delicious, but we wonder whether it was the chicken that made Sue ill (or was it the seawater she drank this morning during her pre breakfast swim in the sea).
Back through the
nice
Then up to Santa
and onto the plateau. Mist above 1000 metres, so the view from 1600 metres, our
highest point, was limited. A shame, we were to do a short levada walk up here
near Rabacal, but the weather put people off doing that. The plateau is 8 km by
5 km, and there were once plans to have the airport here (not a good idea due
to mist and access).
And so, after a
final stop at Encumeada, we headed home in fading light, zipping through the
tunnels of the main road past Funchal.
The island's roads have / are being greatly improved using EEC funds and there seem to
be new tunnels everywhere.
Today we noticed firecrests, grey wagtails, buzzards, and lots of red hot poker
and bird of paradise flowers.
Friday (Martin)
In sickness, Sue stayed
in bed, her attempt at joining me for breakfast lasting only about 10 minutes. She
is wiped out by a stomach bug.
In health, I set
off in light rain at 10:35 on the sea path east - up the road from the Royal Orchid,
first right, then down to the sea. At the end of that path (hotels and a few
people with brollies) up a steep road to join a more major road at a pylon, level with the recessed motorway. Small birds with red bibs chattered to me in
the drizzle. 10:55.
On up the road.
There are reservoirs around here used by people to store levada water, which
they may get released to them twice a week for a cost of €1 a month.
Up this metalled road to a corner where Atlântida
restaurant sits on the right. Turn right, then left in 50 metres when the
church at Assamada comes into view. Up this 'Impasse da Mae de Deus' street
which turns into a footpath before reaching the main road up steps (11:15) just
to the left of a bus stop. Left past three cafés on the right, new buildings,
and unexpected sunshine (the cloud level is 250 metres). Caniço comes into view.
11:25. Mist sits over the sunlit village. Past roadside red hot pokers of the
spiky leaved variety, and toilet brush grasses. Past another bar on the right
before taking a left turn to Caniço centre - reached first left after passing 'The
Village Pub' (11:40 to 11:50.) Pick up provisions in the supermarket then return
sweatily to Royal Orchid room 208 (12:10) to find that a cleaner has changed sheets
etc (a daily routine) and vacuumed around Sue, who has read about two pages of
a TGO magazine in my absence.
A cup of tea is welcome (for me anyway) after my 1½ hour walk with about 250
metres ascent and descent.
And we laze around for the rest of the
day in the room, and Sue has an early night whilst I return to the Atlântida restaurant
for Chris and Alan's anniversary meal. Soup (tomato + onion + egg) and mixed
grill.
Saturday
(Sue)
After 12 hours sleep, I felt a good deal
better and even managed to make the tea! A gentle day was needed, so we planned
to visit Monte gardens. The 10am express bus didn't materialise, but the local
bus around 10:10 satisfactorily had us in Funchal by 10:45. It was a warm
morning, with hazy sunshine, and the cable car seemed a good idea to get us up
to Monte at 550 metres. The ten minute ride provided views over Funchal and the
two cruise liners in the harbour, as well as down into the small gardens and
onto the roofs of the tightly packed houses.
All this was contained in a ravine, with a museum at the top, containing two floors of statues by 1960's sculptors in
After a bit more exploring, we walked up to Monte's centre, a square with a few cafés and shady trees, then climbed up to the church, famous for its small statue of Mary on the altar. It was another peaceful spot and full of flowers.
From its numerous steps, there were views
down to Funchal, and it looked as if low cloud was about to roll in. After a
stroll around some hotel gardens, and a look at toboggans and men in white
trousers and boaters (we'll leave that until next time when I don't feel so
fragile), we got the cable car out of the clouds.
Back in town it was a touch warmer, but we sat inside a tea shop where cake is sold by the kilo and the teapots dribbled horribly, and enjoyed tea whilst editing and browsing through our digital photo collection. There was just time to have a look in the cathedral and wander to the seafront, before meeting Christine and Alan outside the market at 6pm, and the others further along the front soon afterwards. We went to a pizza restaurant after the distractions of the ice rink (next to the Beatles restaurant) and the angels.
The others stayed to look at the lights
whilst we headed back on the 8pm bus, having already seen them and been in
town all day.
A bit of TV and reading before bed.
Sunday (Martin) - Levada do Caniço
repeated (Camacha to Assomada)
Alcinda, proprietor of
Atlántida restaurant, picked us all up (Chris and Alan from Caniço square) at 9:30
and took us up to Camacha by the new road. The forecast was "rain",
and after looking around the wicker shop / factory we ventured outside to be
greeted by said rain. Back inside for a coffee, then, but at about 10:45 we set
off on the levada walk. All eight of us!
It was slow
going down the road as the two Christines were tentative on the steep tarmac.
We soon reached the school where the cobbled path leads towards Salgados. I
took Barrie and Alan to the right, down to the Levada dos Tournos, where we
entertained ourselves in the tunnel that Sue and I had explored on Wednesday.
Good fun. We returned and caught up with the other five in leafy Salgados. The
Christines were having trouble on the slippery cobbles. Beyond here we met an
English couple who went on at great length about difficulties on the levada path. I
knew they were exaggerating but it was hard to ignore them. So I jogged off to
recce, whilst the others continued down. After a mile or so I met a German who
said there were no significant problems. I jogged back. Now, for the first time,
I realised the levada does have a downhill gradient. I was definitely jogging
uphill. Although going in the other direction (downhill) seems level or even
slightly up!
There were one or two slightly tricky sections. Christine and Carol used Sue's walking poles - also very useful for them on the descent - to good advantage.
We came to a slightly flooded area where the poles assisted another group. I went last, using stepping stones in the levada - they were unstable and I fell in - knee deep! Fortunately no camera was quick enough to record the event.
And so we reached the short tunnel. I tried an alternative route and found a low loose ceiling, so grit got everywhere. My white trousers were filthy. Christine and Carol were now very tired and it was all they could do to get down to Alcinda's restaurant. So it was a great relief when after the meal Alcinda offered us a lift back to the Royal Orchid. Very much welcomed by some, especially as the weather had become inclement. So, after brief relaxation we returned to the Atlántida for our final night out together - another nice meal at Alcinda's restaurant.
Here are a few final pictures taken at the Royal Orchid Hotel.
Monday (Martin)
A leisurely
morning before a smooth journey home after lunch at our local cheap restaurant.
