Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 54 - Friday 17 September 2004 - Stage 45
Postcard Summary
Camp
Fortunate
to Banyuls-sur-Mer
Fabulous long walk in brilliant weather
to a big cold salty bath – 9.0 hours, 22 km, 700m ascent
Despite a cold and windy early start
(7.30am), this was a brilliant day.
Canigou glowed pink, and we saw the coast from the high point at 1250m, Pic Neulos. We passed people out collecting mushrooms in
the beech woods of the final ridge. Our
lunch spot on Pic Sailfort gave the first view of our destination, Banyuls, and
way up and down the coast. Fantastic
views – clear for 50+ miles in all directions.
The afternoon passed all too quickly as we passed by cactus plants and
vineyards on our well-marked (for once) path to the sea. Sue was determined to end the walk with a
splash. She did, but not for long as the
sea was cold! Then to a rather dusty campsite
to consume an excellent (and cold) bottle of champagne before returning to town
to contemplate our success, and the rest of our lives.
OVER AND OUT
Diary Entry (by Sue)
A magnificent
final day to Banyuls-sur-Mer. There was a cloudless sky all day and the views
were crystal clear. In view of our early night, it wasn't difficult to get up
soon after 6.30, when it was still dark.
It was a long-trouser
and fleece morning as the wind was strong and cold. So, a 7.30 am start - the
earliest of the trip! From adjacent to the chalet, we were fortunate to see the
effects of the sunrise on the Canigou massif to the west - it glowed a lovely
shade of pink for a short time. There was a 300 metre climb to start, through
beech woods (see top picture), then up the grassy
ridge to Pic Neulos, at 1256 metres our high point for the day.
The low sun was
in our eyes as we walked. Great views of the coast from the top, but Banyuls
was hidden by the ridge to come. The mast on the top was protected by a serious
amount of barbed wire that the path skirted around in more shady beech woods. Down
steeply and a stop for chocolate and to change into shorts (although I retained
fleece and gloves for a while longer!).
The route today
sticks closely to the border ridge, until Pic de Sailfort, with us staying just
to the French side. It also follows GR10, but despite its regularly spaced red
and white flashes we managed to lose it for a short time, so skirting round one
of the cols in the woods! Here, a lady was searching out mushrooms, basket in arms.
Another steepish
climb up grass, with lots of martins catching the numerous insects just above
the ground, to arrive at the next summit, Pic de Pradets (1175 metres).
On one of the summits along the ridge
The view to the coast
Looking back to the Canigou massif
Mountain mix
here to sustain us after the early start. The scent of thyme accompanied this
section, growing in the grass. At the top of Pic des Quatre Termes (1156
metres), we have a chat with a man who is out mushrooming but has failed to
find any, and discuss our route.
Border stone near Pic des Quatre Termes
The ridge curves
around to the final one of today's peaks, and we succeed in deviating from the
path again, thus missing the top of Pic de Sailfort.
More 'treasure' is found on the way -
this time a Special K bar! Our lunch spot is magnificent and fitting for the
last day - from Pic de Sailfort, the Côte Vermeille is laid out beneath us
nearly 900 metres lower down. We can see Banyuls at last, also Collioure and Port-Vendres,
and a long way both north and south.
The lunch provided by the supermarket at Col
Perthus yesterday wasn't the best, but the truffle chocolate that followed was
good.
Lunch near the summit of Pic de Sailfort, with
(below) a view to Banyuls
Banyuls was still over three hours away,
but the descent down a rocky ridge was steep and progress was swift. A couple
of level paths traversed the hillside,
from where turrets could be seen on the scrubby outcrops. A further steep
section cutting off the corners of a road had Martin covered in dust - was this
an accident or an intentional fall?
Orientation point above Banyuls
A water point at the bottom topped up our
depleted bottles with cold water. During the last hour or so, the route
descended gently on dirt tracks through vineyards where the vines were laden
with ripe black grapes, and the red roofs of Banyuls got closer.
The final stretch on the streets of Banyuls
brought us to the beach at just after 4 pm. No time for emotions, as self-timed
photos must be taken!
I insist on a swim, although the beach is pebbly,
the slope into the sea is steep and the water a bit murky and cold. At one of several
wine merchants, we splash out on a €28 bottle of cold Jacquesson champagne, and
stop at the supermarket to buy plastic cups and crisps (to avoid getting too
drunk!) on the way to the campsite. The tent is pitched on stony ground and
tied to trees as pegs are useless, then we enjoy cold champagne, reflecting a
little on the wonderful journey we've done and how smoothly it has gone.
We have dinner at the waterfront, outside
under clear skies - goat's cheese salad and sole with almonds (M), and moules gratinée
and squid in tomato sauce (S), and a half litre of rosé.
The hard ground goes unnoticed, as we
fall asleep quickly, around 9.30 pm, very satisfied and looking forward to the
weekend off!
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
22
km, 700 metres ascent, 9 hours
