Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 15 - Monday 9 August 2004 - Stage 13
Postcard Summary
Hotel
with hot bath to Refuge de Pombie
Fresh breeze for good walking, with lakes
and marmots – 7.2 hours, 14 km, 1300m ascent
A decent hotel breakfast set us up for a
long climb, but cloud means it is a cool one.
Crossed back into France
and saw marmots, including babies, at a lake beneath Pic du Midi d’Ossau. At our camp at Refuge de Pombie at over 2000
metres we saw isards, small deer, again with young.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
Woke to sullen
skies and rain in the air. Stuffed ourselves with breakfast at 8 am, after the
rush of the coach party, who have to be away early on their full day. Leave Candanchu
at 8.50. Now the coach party has gone, the place is dead.
But by the time
we reach Col de Somport the information kiosk there is open. We ignore it and
head up to Astun, another small ski resort with a couple of chairlifts working.
Just past here, at 9.40, we stop to eat two delicious peaches sold to us by the
nice El Bozo man. (Picture above.)
Then we move
steadily up to another beautiful Lake, Ibon
del Escalar. By now I have recovered from my breakfast nosebleed and am
enjoying the cool day - at 17°C excellent for shorts and t-shirt. The ascent to
this lake was at 9 to10 metres per minute whereas earlier in the trip we were
only managing 7 to 8 metres per minute. (Suunto
Altimax watch provided this data.)
Sue changes into
boots - Kate's discarded but trusty Reeboks are wearing out! There would be excellent
networking at this lake.
So, on up to Col des Moines, and border
stone 309 signals another return to France. We get a day walker to take
photos of us with Pic du Midi d'Ossau in the background. Unfortunately it's
cloudy and the peak has its hat on.
It did
eventually clear, at 11.00. I ponder where all the organised HRP trips are,
whereupon we meet a group of eleven French with packs who look as if they are
exactly that.
Pass Lac Castérau,
11.50, and the Pic clears briefly. We have a long (12.30 to 1.30) lunch break
with excellent cheese, tomatoes and baguette from (guess who?) just above Cabane
Cap de Pount, with good views down the valley to the north east.
It was briefly
warm and sunny. Just as well, as I spent 30 minutes on the phone, which had
reception for the first time since before Arlet. So 3 days texts were sent to
Kate, who claims to have the website up to 5/8 done, and a message to Jacqui in
reply to hers. We are so still that family of marmots comes out to play noisily,
without noticing us.
And so to a 650 metre
ascent to Col de Peyreget ~ 2300 metres, which we fairly stormed up, passing a
Frenchman with a white hat - he really did look English, perhaps he was
pretending to be French. Stopping at Lac de Peyreget, we saw lots of marmots
including some babies - I'd never seen them before. And again today, eagles soared
gracefully in the cloudy skies. The route up was through meadows of spotted
gentians, the first time we had seen them. We reached the col at 3.30 and
descended to Pombie Hut, 1,000 feet below, by 4 pm.
|
By Lac de Peyreget |
Didn't notice the
sign "Aire de bivouac - 150 m" and camped illegally by the lake. We
are just about hidden from the hut by a mound and hope we don't get moved on.
(Been here 2 hours now.) It's been spitting with rain, but occasional sun means
it's 27 degrees in here. Very cosy. But Sue keeps farting and is hot in her fleece.
Best couscous
meal yet, (a tent meal, I think) which has lots
of choritzo sausage, and mushrooms and pepper sauce with it, following a nice
soup. Then we bottled out of getting beers at the busy hut and adopted for a
chat with our French friend, also illegally camped, and a view of an isard
family.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
15
km, 1400 metres ascent, 7.2 hours