I've just realised that I didn't conclude this series of postings when just the last day was needed. That's now done, and here's an index.
Index
The Annapurna Circuit - Introduction and Day 1 - Travel to Kathmandu
Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca
Showing posts with label Nepal. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Nepal. Show all posts
Monday, 14 November 2022
November 2004 - The Annapurna Circuit - Index
Tuesday 2nd of November - A day in and around Kathmandu
November 2004 - The Annapurna Circuit - Day 24
Wednesday 24 November
[Diarist: Sue]
After a leisurely 8
am breakfast (Andrew had already watched 'Shakespeare in Love' on his room's
satellite TV!) a taxi driver was co-opted to take us to the south side of
Narrow carpets - one woman; medium carpets - two women; and wide carpets - four women. They occasionally glance at the pattern hanging in front of them.
Upstairs were piles of carpets divided into 60 knot, 80 knot, or 100 knot, the latter being the highest quality. Patterns and colours were diverse. It takes 45 days to make a large carpet, with four women working. The prices seemed appropriate for this much labour, at around US$250 for a medium-sized one.
After this [there's no comment in the diary as to whether Andrew bought
a carpet - Ed], a visit to a shopping area in Patan, where we bought a
picture with gold leaf [where is it now?], probably
paying over the odds. Next stop was Patan's
This final batch of pictures from this trip were taken in Patan and Durbar Squares, and on the way back to the hotel.
Back at the Radisson around 12 noon, we had 3 hours to kill before moving to the airport. The Bluebird supermarket provided some snacks, and we ate some of these sitting up on the 5th floor outside by the pool. It was pleasantly warm now, the air having been cleared by yesterday's rain. Also had a coffee and perused Andrew's copy of Andrew Stephenson's picture book 'Around the Annapurnas'. [A Nepalese Journey - On Foot Around the Annapurnas - a lovely book.]
Eventually, Shirish and Mahesh arrived to see us off, and cream coloured scarves were placed around our necks as last goodbyes were made.
The following 24 hours
were spent either waiting or flying. Yahtzee was introduced to Andrew and
occupied the time before our 7:25 pm flight left
Whilst I slept for
a good chunk of the 7 hour flight to London, Martin watched films etc. Then
only 2 hours at Heathrow before the 40 minute flight to
Our short taxi journey
returns us to
Note re costs: We kept a full record. The three and a half week trip cost Sue and me each around £2500.
Monday, 22 August 2022
November 2004 - The Annapurna Circuit - Day 23
Tuesday 23 November
Nagarkot to Changunarayan and
[Diarist: Martin]
The hoped for 6 am
wake-up knock did not occur - it was misty. Instead we had some Indian(?)
children playing outside our room. It had been a comfortable night, the coolness
of the room being enhanced by the welcome hot water bottles.
We all assembled
for breakfast at 7 am. Mahesh was allowed to join us this time! Then we resumed
our walk at 8 am in weak, hazy sunshine.
Down through a highly populated area with lots of goats, chickens, a few cattle, schoolchildren in pristine blue uniforms, sweetcorn drying high up on stands.
Past bamboo fences
and small fires, women washing themselves and their clothes, friendly greetings
from all.
We passed, after a couple of hours, a small temple from which we descended 100 metres to around 1550 metres. There were small yellowish birds - smaller than yellowhammers but otherwise similar.
Then we rose again
up the final part of the ridge which leads eventually to our terminus for the
walk, the ancient pilgrimage site of Changunarayan. On the way we pass lots of
army boys on a manoeuvre - strange to have loaded guns pointed at us. But
friendly 'namaste' greetings.
Misty views over green
hills beyond steep multi-coloured terraces. A solid green hillside is opposite
us to the south, and a nice little town lies below to the north, beside a river.
The place is Sakhu and has an Alpine look to it, though the buildings are bound
to be crumbling Nepalese.
View to the Kathmandu Valley
We rest for a while
above the army area; Mahesh has his lunch. Then the final half hour of our
stroll down the ridge, past firs and aloes, and a magnificent swing constructed
from four bamboo poles, lots more children and goats some with triplet kids.
Lush vegetables,
especially cabbages, on the last section of today's walk. Mahesh had not done
this route before, but he was able to ask the way, and he was impressed by the
temple at the end of the walk.
Hindu temple at Changunarayan
Also noted - frisky goat kids, children asking for pens and money, blue skies, smells of spices, circling kites, Maoist paranoia, Sanjeev's efficient organisation.
And so, by 11:30 we
are at our destination, Changunarayan - an ancient site with a small bus park (we
have had a traffic free morning on nice paths) and lots of adoring visitors.
Only a handful of westerners here, so we get hassled to buy things. That is
actually stopping me from buying anything! The slight disappointment of
the shortness of the walk was soon forgotten when it started to spot with rain
for the second time this trip, the first being yesterday afternoon. So we
headed back to the old
|
|
22 Nov |
23 Nov |
|
|
|
Start (m) |
1575 |
2000 |
|
|
|
Ascent (m) |
900 |
180 |
|
|
|
Descent (m) |
-475 |
-595 |
|
|
|
Finish (m) |
2000 |
1585 |
|
|
|
Time (hrs) |
6.30 |
3.30 |
|
|
|
Stops (hrs) |
1.00 |
0.30 |
|
|
|
Walking Time (hrs) |
5.30 |
3.00 |
|
|
Before Mahesh left us we gave him a 1500 rupee tip (£25) and the old UNO cards - he had enjoyed last night's game and seemed pleased with this.
Then a lazy afternoon - first we all meet to consume our packed lunches, than we laze in baths/sauna in front of TV whilst the rain falls outside. We pack our bags in preparation for tomorrow's departure.
Then downstairs to
meet Andrew, who is in the midst of a Japanese briefing session! before a short
15 minute stroll, avoiding mud and puddles, to the Chimney Restaurant at the famous
Yak and Yeti Hotel. This is an old converted palace and is a magnificent
building. The food was excellent, served by white-gloved waiters, enjoyed in
the company of a Canadian couple from
Back in time for bed by 10 pm, after a stroll through light rain, to the disappointment of the taxi drivers.
Monday, 8 August 2022
November 2004 - The Annapurna Circuit - Day 22
Monday 22 November
A Walk to Nagarkot
Itinerary: DAY 22 Depart
[Diarist: Sue]
A 5:30am wake up
call ensured we were downstairs by 5:45 to say goodbye to Mark, Mary and Lindy,
who are flying home today.
After breakfast, the remaining three of us loaded our day sacs into the bus for the hour's journey to Dhulikhal. Traffic was fairly quiet leaving at 7am on the slightly misty morning. Finally, suburban sights were replaced by terracing, farm buildings, and haystacks.
We are accompanied
by Mahesh, and would have had difficulty route finding if on our own. Climbing
a track at first, this soon dwindled to a narrow path, contouring between
terraced fields. As we rose, the mist and the noise of the road were left
behind. Bird song, and the ring of Mahesh's phone replaced the toots. Pretty
pink flowers filled some fields, and the sun shone.
After one ridge we
dropped into a small village, where a line of school children stood in blue
uniforms with their teacher. Their faces lit up, and they didn't cry out for
"One pen" or "School pen".
Hay was drying in
trees and there were stacks of corn outside houses. Women seemed to be happy
working in the fields.
Another pine covered hilltop was crested and a steep and potentially slippery descent was negotiated before a stop on a broad ridge at about 1700 metres.
The Radisson lunch box provided a snack in the hot sun. Then, more climbing through pine trees with a brown autumnal hue, sometimes quite steeply, to reach a dirt road at the top, just over 2000 metres. Not only did this provide more level walking, but lovely views to the Himalayan mountains to the north.
The only traffic
was tractors loaded with sacks of potatoes. Some distance later, after
this shady section, was an open col, with a shack one side and around ten men
from the Nepalese army lounging on the grass, rifles in hand. Three goats sat
around, one happily eating a chain of marigold heads. They made short work of
our banana skins too. Seated on benches, we ate lunch, while lemon tea was
prepared inside the shack. Children stared and three lads turned up carrying a
piece of heavy machinery.
More climbing after lunch, through green woods, to a viewpoint. By now, clouds had completely obscured any snowy mountains so we just watched the antics of others climbing to the lookout tower. A glimpse of Everest can be seen from here on a clear day.
It was metalled
road from here on, past army barracks and checkpoints, to the
Here was the first rain of the trip, a short but sharp shower. Having finished walking around 2:30pm, we enjoyed beers in the dining room until 4 ish, chatting with Mahesh. Then, hot showers and a chance to catch up with the diary, along with a short doze under the duvet.
There were only another six or so people in the chilly restaurant, but we had a very nice dinner of soup and curries. Mahesh joined us for a beer, but ate his dinner somewhere else. We had offered to buy his dinner, but the etiquette seems to dictate that he eats differently and has a different type of room - probably of a 'dorm' type.
We introduced Mahesh to Uno and played a few rounds with him under Martin's watchful eye. He came second! He also told us about his wife, 'by an 'arrangement' and children - twins aged four and a half, and a two year-old. Whilst we played, hot water bottles were put in our beds, as there's no heating, and we headed for bed soon after 8:30pm.
Friday, 5 August 2022
November 2004 - The Annapurna Circuit - Day 21
Sunday 21 November
Sightseeing in
[Diarist: Martin]
Leisurely rise and
breakfast. Mary went her own way whilst the rest of us got a taxi (vintage Merc
220D) to
Pashupatinath
Images from Pashupati
Tourist trap stalls
We rejoined our
taxi for the short drive to Boudhanath Stupa. More entry fees, but we weren't
hassled at either of these places. They were pouring 'whitewash' down from the
top of the Stupa, made from water and various crushed herbs, creating a
brownish stain on the Stupa.
Boudhanath
Boudhanath
Then back in the
taxi again, and lunch courtesy of the Bluebird store by the Radisson. Then
everyone did their own thing, mostly shopping. Sue and I went to Durbar Square
(KTM) - a half hour walk, the last section of which was in densely crowded
shopping streets, with narrow streets leading off the main thoroughfare. Lots
of intricate carvings on the buildings, which are mainly fairly decrepit, even
the new ones. A '60s like shopping centre with posh shops - jewellers, white
goods, furniture, etc, was in the middle of all this.
Shops etc around Durbar Square
Durbar Square had
lots of temples, etc, and we kept a leaflet which was given to us with the
entry fee. We were hassled by prospective guides, but resisted.
Images from Durbar
Nice walk back via Thamel, then a turn around, a final briefing from Sanjeev at 5pm, before heading back to Thamel for our last meal together for the six of us, at Yin Yang Thai Restaurant. Some rather bland dishes, but perhaps because of what we ordered (we shared the food) rather than the fault of the restaurant. Back for an early night as we rise early tomorrow.
Today, the scent of
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