Tuesday 16 November
Marpha to Lete
Itinerary: DAY 16 Lete (2,438m) Continue along the right bank to Tukuche
(2,591m) and just after Larjung (2,560m) cross the river again. Leaving behind
the flat roofed compact houses of the upper Kali Gandaki we soon emerge between
the peaks of Dhaulagiri and
[Diarist: Sue]
The apple cider
appeared to have induced good sleep for everyone. Although the night felt much
warmer, there was still frost on the tent flysheet. There was much porter clamour
- usually camp is more spread out and we don't hear much of this.
Breakfast upstairs
in the 'greenhouse room' where apple rings are drying on the other side of the
room. Porridge, and egg with fresh rolls.
The morning is
still cool enough for the girls to be wearing down jackets, as we set off
through Marpha's shady streets. It is a long while before the sun penetrates
this deep valley. Just outside Marpha, autumn colours in the orchards of fruit
trees and the distillery just behind. Today, with the bends in the river, the
views change often. Excellent views of Dhaulagiri and
In Tukuche village,
an enclosed courtyard, with an ornately carved window, provided a sunny,
sheltered spot for lemon tea. Moving on, the path uses the river bed, which is rocky
and dusty but rather like walking on a wide beach.
A few clouds build
up around mid-morning and continue to thicken during the day. The willow trees in
their autumn hue dominate the entrance to the villages of Kobang and Larjuing. There
are tunnel like constructions between the stone houses here, as protection
against the strong winds.
In Larjung, we
stop for an early lunch, again inside. Another nice lunch of puris, mashed
potato cakes, coleslaw and fried luncheon meat, with fresh pineapple.
As a change, there
was a good chunk of today's walk for after lunch. As usual, the wind had risen,
but not much dust blew around. After crossing more river bed, the trail passes
through pines on the bank. Around here was a rapid switch from arid conditions to one of plants returning, particularly marked after crossing a suspension
bridge where the path to
In the small
The path was undulating
after this and for a good ten minutes, a lammergeier flew around above.
Occasionally the cloud breaks to give tantalizing views of
Soon, to Kalopani and then to Lete, where the houses are now more Nepalese. Children play, women go about their washing around the taps, and we seem to have lost the crowds of trekkers seen in the morning. Marigolds are now back, and make gardens here pretty.
Just outside Lete, a steep descent to our campsite, an unlikely spot above a thundering river, arriving around 3:45 pm.
We relaxed in our tents until hot washing water arrived at 4:30, then tea at 5 pm, inside the dining room. As is fairly common, there are posters of
At 9 pm, time for bed under a cloudy sky.
Statistics:
Start: 2710 metres
Ascent: 75 metres
Descent: -395 metres
Finish: 2390 metres
Time: 8 hours
Stops: 2.75 hours
Walking time: 5.25 hours
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