Tuesday 23 June 2026 - Padina to Moeclu de Sus

We got going soon after nine. The only other visitors last night were five Austrians dressed in black (bear watchers?). They have a separate room for meals - this morning we all enjoyed a sumptuous breakfast that would feed about 25 guests. It's quite a mysterious place, with just one small sign pointing visitors down a track with barriers.

We used a bridge to cross the river soon after setting off. Vehicles must ford it. That explains why the only vehicles outside Chalet Alpina were hefty Land Cruiser types.

Beyond some gypsy shacks we joined a road for a few metres before heading up to Cabane Padina. All rather desolate and in need of renovation up there.

We backtracked from this unwelcoming zone and soon found the correct path to Strunga Saddle. We were soon above the tree line and moving slowly forward on the 400 metre climb. The path was deeply rutted - more so when it started to rain and a careless slip left me scrabbling in a muddy rut.

Eventally we reached a plaque in memory of somebody's short life, next to a hut that may be available to walkers but which today was occupied by a shepherd and his dog.

Up at the saddle the rain stopped and we had fine views of the nearby cliffs as well as towards our destination and the Romanian villages beyond.

A couple of Romanian men proved good company for a while at the saddle. They had taken the day off work to go for a walk. Like our  Romainian friend Daniella, they are dismayed by the illegal logging that is going on in Romania's largest forest, and the damage to the environment from hydroelectric schemes; and corruption is never far away. They warned us not to try to run away from the bears. We haven't seen one - the closest I can manage is a chamois yesterday, and Sue has seen a red squirrel. 8

The next few kilometres were most enjoyable. A good path led gently downhill just below the escarpment. There were good views to Romania's countryside and villages to the north, and back to Strunga Saddle.

Further on, the path wound in and out of woodland, where the Chaffinches were ardently arguing about the issues of the day, with noisy coal tits, lesser whitethroat, tree pipits, a lone dunnock, skylarks, chiffchaffs, water pipit and others, all making vocal contributions.

We passed the derelict remains of an old Forest Hut. We'll need to return here tomorrow. 

Soon after the hut we turned left to descend to this pretty vilĺage via a steep forest path. My knees didn't appreciate that.

After confusion about where we were staying, I took the next picture from the wrong guest house. Back up the road Adeline and Maya shepherded us into the correct accommodation where we were reunited with our 'big bags'.

We tried and failed to arrange for a very light supper. We are suffering from a bombardment of food.

Today's walk was advertised as being 16km with 400 metres ascent. I made it 13km. Perhaps  the 16km included a lot of looking for the correct guest house. We are the only visitors, giving the children a chance to practice their hosting skills.

Here's Sue's take on the day.

Not a very good night’s sleep but the bed was comfy. The barking dog didn’t help.
A beautiful spread of meat, cheese, bread, liver pate, olives, tomatoes, pepper and cucumber at 8am. Water wasn’t hot enough for tea, so we ordered two coffees! After paying for dinner we left at 9.20am.
Humid again and mostly cloudy. A track in the woods between two rivers brought us to an open plateau with a camp. After crossing a river we turned right to climb up to Cabana Padina, another closed establishment. The path continued above it, in sparse pines at first, then out onto open meadow where cows with bells were grazing. Farmers were working around a wooden building, with big dogs that came up but didn’t bother us. They were herding pigs too. The path steadily climbed, and we were wearing waterproofs by now as rain had started. The visibility was okay though and we could see the saddle ahead.
Passed a large plaque to a 36-year old on the rock. A small cabin was passed, with a nearby information board about Gheorghe Eminescu, an anti communist in 1948-49, hiding in these mountains. We soon reached our high point of 1909m and took in the views of huge limestone cliffs and the wooded valley where we would stay tonight. Chatted to two English-speaking Romanians who advised us not to run if we encountered a bear.
The path slowly descended, with the cliffs above and lots of flowers around. A new one today was Scorzonarea rosea. Further down we were in and out of pine woods where one-flowered wintergreen were prolific. The chaffinches and coal tits were noisy but we also had a tree pipit and water pipit, as well as a lesser whitethroat. The route passed the ruin of a hut, then descended through woods, quite steeply at times, where a few species of fungi were lurking. One was a dotted stem bolete, with a velvety top and swollen reddish stem.
I was pleased to see a red squirrel high up in a pine, discarding his cone with a clatter.
Eventually we reached the river, crossing it to reach a large national park sign and a track. From here it wasn’t far into the village of Moieciu de Sus, a quiet place with houses lining the road and barns dotted over the hillside above, where sythes were being used to cut the hay on the steep ground.
Arrived at Pensiunea Rodica around 3.15, after going to the wrong accommodation first, as our notes listed two! We were greeted by Adeline and Maya, young girls with good English, who showed us to our room.
Two mugs of tea was our priority (no flask today) and we enjoyed the cool air on our balcony.

Monday 22 June 2026 - Sinaia to Padina (Chalet Alpina)

After abandoning most of our possessions for a couple of days, and an uncomfortable ride in a crowded T3 bus (we should have taken Collett's advice and got a taxi), we arrived at the Sinaia gondola station and the pleasure of a calm ride up to a welcome café at 2100 metres. 

On a cloudy day we did get some vìews from the gondola.

Up at the summit of Fernica Peak we were in a misty buttercup zone.

The hills were alive today, with the striking colour of alpenrose.

A walk along the undulating plateau followed, views coming and going whilst the cloud base fumbled with its decisions. 

We passed a sports ground where Romania's crack athletes get their altitude training, then we encountered a couple of Austrian motorcyclists on a tree lined path before we emerged from the tree line.

Up at the Babele hut we pressed on to some impressive rocks and enjoyed the picnic lunch provided by Sinaia Hotel. It was warm, but the cloud slowly enveloped us and the Sphinx rock disappeared. 

Continuing along the path towards the route to Omu, several snowfields were encountered. Progress was slow.

Looking back,  there was a good view to the Costila TV relay mast above cliffs that plunge down to the north of the plateau. 

Eventually we rounded a corner and got our first view of Omu Peak. After a tricky section of belvedere path I chose to stay on the col cleaning my fingernails while Sue nipped up the summit that lurked over 200 metres above us.

The views came and went.

Sue eventually turned up and after some faffing with the route we took a path to a water pipe beyond which we carefully and steeply descended to path number 2 that took all the way to Padina. It proved to be a lovely walk down.

Chalet Alpina took some finding. It turns out to be a smart place where the only English speaker is on the end of a phone. She's not phased by our late arrival (6:30) and reads out the English translation of the a la carte menu. We chose pork ribs followed by another version of papansi - this version being rather like profiteroles. We've no idea of the cost - that wasn't in the translation of the menu we never saw.

Today's exertions amounted to 22km with 1000+ metres ascent. Having missed out Peak Omu, I managed a mere 19km with 800 metres ascent.

Sue's hastily written diary is appended below:

Mon 22 June
7.30 wake. Breakfast. T3 bus at 9.40 to telegondola stop. Two gondolas to 1400 then cota 2000 for 10.30. Coffee. Cloud hovering. Walked to nearby summit then found the path north. Already surrounded by flowers, including swathes of pink Alpenrose. We soon lost the people who’d come up by gondola as we crossed the Bucegi plateau (skylarks). We descended a bit then rose again, before traversing across (Water pipit, linnet) to near a cablecar station. Around here were huge rocks, sculpted by wind and rain, into forms given names such as Babele, and the Sphinx. As we ate lunch overlooking them, it got suddenly colder and the cloud swirled around us. A flock of sheep below was being guarded by several large dogs, as we’d been warned.
Onwards north again, climbing slightly, with threats of rain and some rolls of thunder. One tricky snow patch to get round before we reached a junction where M stopped and I continued to Cabane Omu (closed) and a summit (2,500m). The cloud cleared and waterproofs came off.
I cut a bit off the descent, and, once I’d met up with M, after a false start (heading up again), we dropped past a water source, and a steep slope of Alpenrose, to join a descending path, marked with blue and white. This was a delightful valley, with slopes of Alpenrose, then a steep section down between rock cliffs, and then grassy slopes. Grey cloud hung around, giving some drizzle that was quite pleasant without waterproofs. A flock of sheep was uneventfully passed (no dogs) and we were now nearing Chalet Alpina. A section on tarmac road, then down a track past a small wooden church, down some steps, across a river, and along a track, and we were there! At around 6.15pm. It is a beautiful house, and staff don’t speak English so we had a telephone call followed by the menu in English on WhatsApp.
Getting out of sweaty clothes was nice and a shower.
Pork ribs with coleslaw and chips for dinner, followed by profiteroles. Very tasty but portions were large.

Sunday 21 June 2026 - Sinaia

A leisurely start. 1.7km walk, after bidding farewell to our trusty apartment, to Gara de Nord. Coffee. Then the 10:25 train to Brasov. It left 15 seconds late. Very smart new carriages with vast luggage racks. Zoom through the countryside to disembark at Sinaia, from where we start a trek tomorrow. 

Walk up a hill to Hotel Sinaia, leave our bags there. Pop into local supermarket for tasty lunch ingredients then find a sheltered spot near a bandstand to consume them. It's hot again.

Walk further uphill to Peles Castle - that's a misnomer, it's really a palace built by Romania's iconic King Carol 1 in 1883. Laze in the gardens before joining an English language tour. The building has 160 rooms and was well used by the monarchy for political, cultural and symbolic functions. It was an interesting tour.

Returned down the hill past lots of nicknack stalls. I had bought sunglasses from one of these (R20 ~ £3.50) as mine got left at home. It clouded over. Claps of thunder in the distance. Views down the valley. 

Back at the hotel we collected an envelope from Collett's containing maps. It's not 'Race across the World' as we have not had our 'phones confiscated! But it seems a bit like that. 

What was advertised as a guided trip has now become self guided as there were no other takers. That shouldn't be a problem, it'll just be a mini adventure. 

Dinner in a restaurant downstairs, a look at tomorrow's map, and an early night in a splendid hotel room.

We enjoyed the traditional local dessert-Papanaşi, a doughnut made with fresh cheese, cream and cherry jam.

Here's Sue's entry:

Sun 21 June
After yogurt and banana for breakfast, and packing, we left the apartment at 9.15 for the half hour walk to Gara de Nord. Coffeelab provided two flat whites as we had half an hour to spare before the 10.25 train to Brasov.
The train was cool and very smart, stopping four times before our arrival in Sinaia at midday.
It was hot but quite a bit cooler than Bucharest as we walked the 6 mins (uphill) from the Royal station to Hotel Sinaia, to drop luggage.
Mega Image supermarket, just along the road, provided pastries, fruit and drink for a picnic lunch in the park, just below the bandstand, on a shady stone bench.
We meandered uphill, past the casino, up steps past the remains of the monastery, the first place to be built here, and then along a wide cobbled path beneath trees. This was lined with wooden huts and people selling clothes and souvenirs. It opened out after crossing the river and we got views of Peleş Castle, where we had 2.30pm tickets.
King Carol (1866-1914) built the palace as his summer residence and it belongs to the Romanian royal family. It was full of ornately carved wood, including African ironwood,  marble, a glass ceiling that slides open, mirrors made of crystal and chandeliers and mirrors of Merano glass. Different styles were used in the 160 rooms, 30 of which were bathrooms. Carol was a popular king, whose only daughter died when she was 4. His nephew inherited the throne on his death. He was originally from Germany and there are paintings and stained glass of family and other Germans.
The tour in English took around an hour.
Had a quick look at Pelisor Castle (the smaller of the two) before taking the same route back, rather quicker as there was thunder and dark clouds. It didn’t rain though.
Our room 302 is lovely and we soon spread out the maps on the bed to work out where we go tomorrow.
I used the pool, steam room, jacuzzi and sauna for half an hour before we went downstairs to Crama Rina, one of the hotel’s three restaurants, for dinner.
The sarmale (beef and pork mince wrapped in cabbage) with soured cream, a whole green chilli, and polenta was lovely. We shared traditional papanasi for pudding - a warm doughnut made with fresh cheese, with cream and fruit jam. It was delicious.

Saturday 20 June 2026 - Bucharest (4)

Today we enjoyed our own walking tour.

Apartment to coffee break at Casa Capsa via Calla Victoriei and via a short section by the river, where a Little Tern was busy fishing just next to us.

The red plaque indicates earthquake damage that could cause the building to collapse. 

Holocaust memorial

Then we continued along Calla Victoreie to its terminus at Piata Victoriei.

After that we turned down Bulevardul Lascar Catargiu ro reach Piata Romana.

Then down Bulevardul Magheru for lunch at a French café, before continuing to Theodor Aman Museum, the private home of the artist, Theodore Aman.

Finally, by late afternoon, we were back at the apartment enjoying a pot of tea after returning via Cismigiu Gardens.

I think the pictures are in order but the text may be a little out of order. To be edited at home.

An evening meal outside Energiea rounded off the day nicely.

Here's Sue's take on the day:

Sat 20 June
Breakfast of croissants and yogurt in the apartment before leaving around 9, to walk the length of Calea Victoriei, as recommended in our guidebook. Going south we went past the Holocaust memorial to the river, then met Calea V at its end, closed to traffic on a Saturday. We passed the National History Museum and dived down the pedestrian street past Caru’ cu Bere to revisit Stavropoleos Monastery. Nearby is the Macca-Villacrosse Passage, curved with a glass ceiling, joining Calea V with the Romanian National Bank, where coins are minted.
After admiring the Military Club and its fountain, we found a shady seat outside Casa Capsa, for coffee. With the road closed we saw our first joggers and stalls were being set up for festivities.
We revisited Piata Revolutiei but crossed the road this time to look at the Cretulescu Church, built in the 1720s but restored after being damaged in the revolution.
Continuing north, we stopped to admire the frontage of the Novotel, which used to be the national theatre. A Romanian woman discussed with us that the theatre had not been bombed in the Second WW (as we’d been told on our tour) but suffered a fire.  The facade is apparently a replica, rather than what remained after the bombing.
To our right was the Athenee Palace Hotel, which featured in the Fortunes of War book we’ve just read. The Roman Atheneum is a concert hall, with circular form and a domed roof, with pillars and a garden in front.
Other notable buildings were the former home of George Enescu, composer, with ornate stonework and art nouveau entrance.
At Piata Victoriei, we turned south again, along a busy boulevard to Piata Romana.
Lunch was a sandwich under the trees on a side street, after which we went into the Theodor Aman Museum, his house painted with his own murals and home to paintings , sketches, copper plates, portraits and carvings. It was cool and there was some exquisite work.
We returned via Piata Universitatii, and Cismigiu Park, at around 4ish, glad to have the aircon replacing the 32 degrees of heat outside.
Lemon tea was also welcome.