Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 45 - Wednesday 8 September 2004 - Stage 36
Postcard Summary (on tomorrow's card)
English
Hotel to Col
du Puymorens
Good walk on good paths in sun, blighted
by a nasty ski resort (El Pas de la Casa) – 7.25 hours, 20 km, 1000m ascent
A nice ascent from Soldeu, but then the
eyesore of the ski resort. We made it
quite easily to Col du Puymorens, where the only hotel is ‘Hotel du Col’. We renamed it ‘Fawlty Towers’.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
Replete from a
comprehensive continental breakfast the two lean mean walking machines headed
off up to Port Dret at 9 am on a bright clear day. Shorts from the start - a
good move despite only 11°C. This rose steadily to a max of about 25°C during
the morning.
The speed of
9-10 metres a minute ascent was as fast as we have been, so the rest must have
done us good, and the couple of days food taken on board hasn't had any
noticeable effect on our weight.
We follow yellow
dots on a well graded but steepish path through a nice pine forest, with a
carpet of Yarrow and Lady's Bedstraw as the trees begin to thin out at 2100 metres,
after starting at about 1820 metres. The open hillside is still nicely shaded
from the sun, which occasionally is lifted over the horizon to blind us. The
views are clear, mountains all around - we are going well. This is how an
Alpine ascent should be, and we cover the 750 metre ascent to Port Dret by 10.55,
in less than 2 hours. (See top picture for the view
from here.)
The view on
ascent was blighted only by Soldeu town with its huge cranes as the ski resort
is expanded. But this is hidden from the Port - a wide saddle area with a panorama
of high mountains in every direction. And as we were fully fuelled from breakfast,
no mountain mix was needed on the way up.
No wind, one of
those perfect days you couldn't wish to be better. Views back to the day before
yesterday's route and the 2505 metre peak. Good choice of rest day again - weather
was much less good yesterday. Broad views, grassy now, not bouldery here.
We join the main
HRP route from D'Incles at the col. This also seems to be the well marked GRP
1, which leaves us before we arrive at the summit of Pic Ortafa - 2600 metres,
at 11.30. On the way we meet a backpacker with a large dog carrying panniers.
He is the only person we pass on our route all day (other than a few day trippers
near the end). There are cars near this summit. The terrain is a bit Howgill
like, and we amble through the grasshopper laden grass without difficulty,
chatting about skiing trips and resorts.
I wrestle again
with my Altimax altimeter, but still can't work out how to use the log book. Soon
we are on Pic Maia, 2614 metres, with some very friendly horses. One foal is
especially friendly and has very soft hair. They are usually more shy.
Brilliant views from this plateau summit.
Then we descend,
and the dreadful sight of the ski resort of El Pas de la Casa comes into view (on
the French border - we crossed into France here, for the last time, for
the rest of our trip). We spend the next couple of hours descending via Port
d'Envalira to this place, cutting off road zigzags and reaching the town at
lunchtime when everything, including it would appear McDonald's, shuts for
lunch.
Right in the centre, one café was open and was
heaving, as there were many tourists about. A signpost to Perpignan indicates we are nearing the end of
our journey. We got a couple of cold cokes and adjourned a short way down the
path to Puymorens for lunch between 1.35 and 2.10. It was nice to be back on
baguettes, tinned fish and pâté. 25°C. An unscenic stop but pleasant weather
and some good views if the horrible town was ignored. On then around a rough,
pathless area as far as the disused Mines de Pimorens. (Our dose of rough
country for the day.)
Then along a
grassy track, past a memorial for two people lost in an avalanche on 4 March
1954.
Traffic below
queuing at a Custom's point - lorries being turned back into France. Cows and horses enjoying
the afternoon sun, as we reach Col de Puymorens (1920 metres) at 4.15 and book
into the basic but friendly hotel (but back to French prices!). Cheese fondue
for supper.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
20
km, 1000 metres ascent, 7.25 hours
