Camp above Larribet, looking back to our descent route
Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 17 - Wednesday 11 August 2004 - Stage 15
Postcard Summary
Cold
camp to Refuge Wallon
Brilliant clear day, glissade down from
high point 2706 metres – 10 hours, 17 km, 1200m ascent
After yesterday’s difficulties, this was
a superb day. Clearest day yet, but a breeze kept us cool. Descended through a lovely valley and brewed
up at the bottom, where bilberries were ripe and tasty. Another long climb took us to a col on the
border, then up to our highest point yet – 2706 metres. There was a brilliant snow slope to glissade
down to lakes and pines in the next valley.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
A superb
mountain day. We could tell it was a clear night at around 2200 metres as it
was cold. I needed long johns and two T-shirts. Sue was thoroughly zipped into
her Rab Quantum 400 for the first time.
We were a foot
away from a stream and a couple of yards from the path, so just as well it
didn't rain, and we did hear early starters from Larribet Hut passing around 6.30.
We breakfasted on black tea and muesli with water (Spanish muesli is good) and
opened the tent to high cloud, marmots in the distance, and the prospect of a
good day.
We set off at 7.50
in 8°C. Due to my hot fleece (RAB Vapour Rise), I started in t-shirt and long
trousers. Boots all day for both of us again today. We first saw the sun at 8.18,
before reaching Larribet Hut, but the hut was in shade and it remained cool for
the whole of our descent to 1620 metres for a brew at 10.15 to 45.
En route we
passed Larribet Hut and successfully abluted. People were coming and going.
Then we met masses of people coming up the picturesque valley - today we saw
more people than on any other - day hikers and backpackers.
The day was
crisp and clear, with the best visibility yet, and a fresh southerly breeze
which kept temperatures to the mid 20s°C or lower. By the time we brewed, Sue
had removed her thermals and it was 26°C.
Brew up in Val Arens
Then we ascended another well used path (path maintenance takes place here) up to a plateau of well munched grass, before gentle zigzags took us further up the valley and eventually to Port de la Peyre-St-Martin - 1.05 to 45 - where we enjoyed our last baguette and sardines (S) and oysters (M).
Port de la Peyre-St-Martin
By now we had lost most of the 'day trippers' to picnic spots below. It was a breezy 20°C here, but we found a sheltered spot amongst rocks at 2295 metres. We needn't have been nervous about the alpine ascent to Col de Cambales (2706 metres) - our highest point yet - it was a straightforward thrutch up a scree slope on a well graded path with a couple of patches of snow to cross.
3 pm - butterflies and Belgians on the col.
Above: Col de Cambales
Below: Balaitous from Col de Cambales
Below: Balaitous from Col de Cambales
Then a leisurely
stroll (Sue very slow) down the other side, including a long snow glissade, to
reach the Wallon Refuge at 5.40 pm on a beautiful clear afternoon. We got two cokes
and ordered a meal (just in time), after Sue had raved about the smell of the pines
on the descent.
Sheepsbit
A minor washing
interlude, selves and clothes, was followed by a dash to the hut for the 7 pm
meal in the annex, the main hut being full. [I
remember watching crossbills pecking at the cement on the walls of this Refuge,
during one visit.] The aire de bivouac is good and flat. Meal was wholesome
but lacked ambience. Adjourned to main bit of hut which was more vibrant, but
emptying due to impending bedtime at 9 to 9.30 pm.
Today was a Classic Mountain
Walking Day.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
19
km, 1350 metres ascent, 10 hours
2 comments:
That scenery looks more like the Mercantour of my alternative finish. perhaps it's more rugged on the Spanish side?
It's rugged on the border, Conrad! Veron, being French, favours the French side, but sections of the HRP both in France and Spain, pass through a bouldery sort of no man's land...
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