October 1997 - The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route - Introduction and Day 0 - October 10

Introduction

I've been scanning some old slides and prints, transcribing my diary, and re-living this trip to the Himalayas. Unusually, there are no images in this first entry, which sets the scene and covers the period immediately before I joined the other members of the party at Heathrow.

These entries are principally for my own benefit, but they may be of passing interest to others. Here's what I wrote at the time. Edits are in blue and the pictures are my best guess as regards the order.

October 11 to 31, 1997

The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route, with Himalayan Kingdoms

It is now 11pm in the Natraj Hotel, Rishikesh, and I'm starting to write this entry 3 days into the 3-week holiday.

It all began with a decision a few months ago to change from the usual backpacking routine for several reasons, principally riskyness of backpacking this year with bad knees, and a general feeling of time to move on after last year's experience in the Picos de Europa. (Diary not yet transcribed - Ed)

The trip that 'fitted in' was this HK trip, and my preparation for it is documented in the concurrent diary volume (being principally a weekend in Brecon 3 weeks ago).

Whilst the holiday really started on the 11th, a visit to The Parr Hall, Warrington, on Thursday 9th certainly got me in the mood for a trip to the Indian Himalaya. The speaker was Keith Miller, an engineering professor at Sheffield University, and he spoke most knowledgeably about a variety of expeditions which practically combined the pleasures of scientific research and mountaineering. He tried to explain to a mixed audience the many facets of expeditions and the interaction and conflict between different objectives and competing principles. He also explained the effect of size of group, emotional and religious forces, etc. On the practical side, I learnt a bit about 'cracks', and I had not been aware that the Arctic ice cap is about 12,000 feet thick and that Icelandic glaciers measure about 6,000 feet deep!

So after a not too stressful day at work (although the early morning runs and a strange stomach were a passing concern) I made a last minute rush at the HK kitbag before joining Dave and Calla for a nice meal at the 'Turkish Delight' in Chorlton. Unfortunately, my appetite was lacking and by the time I got home from seeing Kate and Mike at Nell's, I was extremely queasy. Frequent loo stops and a desire to lie down prevented me from leaving everything in best shape for those 'house sitting'. Sorry.

Before I knew it, Dave and Calla's call retrieved me from a prone position and they kindly took me to Chorlton Street bus station where I was to catch the 00:20 to Heathrow. Not allowed onto the bus between 00:00 and 00:15, I sat groaning on the bags until, shaking badly, I found a nearby bin for used tickets. After giving a brilliant impersonation of an intoxicated traveller, I managed to load the gear and collapse onto the bus. Severe stomach cramps. Soon I was to find a toilet designed exactly with my needs in mind and proceeded to empty what remained of the contents of my bowel and stomach in unison, before returning to groan in extreme discomfort for the rest of the journey. There were quite a few stops, but I noticed only Manchester Airport and Birmingham Digbeth. Other passengers kept away.

Next Day