October 1997 - The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route - Day 4 - October 14

Tuesday 14th October

Breakfast at 7am, then 8am departure was the plan. By 8:30 ish we were loaded into the Tata driven by Vicram, and off to the Mercury HQ via various errands for Vicram and clever dodging of the toll barriers.

Anil joined us for the scenic journey to Karanprayeg, about 175 km (I think). We stopped first in Devprayag for more disgustingly sweet tea and also, a painted man came in and required to be photographed looking fierce, for money. Richard obliged. 

The Alaknanda River

We had a splendid view down to the confluence of the Alaknanda River and the river from Tehri, which converge into the Ganges. We watched rafters embarking on long trips down the rapids. Anil likes these rapids - they are very technical. He is more into rafting than mountains these days despite having been up some notable summits. He loves the rivers.

Alaknanda River confluence at Devprayag

On to Srinagar (not THE Srinagar) where Sudhil comes from. [Anil comes from nearby Nanital, which he says is beautiful - judging by my borrowed maps Ian Inch has also been there.]

Srinagar is a bustling place which doesn't sell postcards, but we visit the post office (very old English like) to deplete the stamp reserves by getting stamps for 20 cards each (except John - 4). They cost 7 rupee each - my first non-communal expenditure of the trip.

Srinagar

Soon we continue, to search for a suitable wayside restaurant for lunch. The road weaves its way along the valley in a switchback series of thousands of bends, gently rising and falling with the contours. Driving here is much more enjoyable for Vicram. it's a bit like constantly driving up and down less steep and slightly wider versions of Hard Knott and Wrynose passes, with constantly interesting river views (Anil observantly reccies future rafting trips) and good if monotonous mountain scenery - some bare, some scrubby, some forested, some cultivated in steep terraces.

A view from the switchback road

We stop at the Mahesh Restaurant in a deep curve in the road where a river descends. The sun has just been obscured by mountains, but we eat good food off (plates) a marble table still hot from the sun. A pleasant meal despite my dicky stomach.

Breaking rocks at the roadside

The road continued much as before on to Karanprayeg. There are some helpful signs on this road through gorges, where on one side there is a wall and on the other side a precipice (these sections mixed in with the Hard Knott / Wrynose sections):

'No race no rally, enjoy the beauty of Valley'
'Do not gossip let him drive'
'Be cautious on my curves'
'Low your gear, curve is near'
'Darling I like you but not so fast'
'If you love her divorce speed'
'Caution, shooting boulders are active, slow down'
'Your hurry may cause others worrying
'Life is precious, drive cautiously'
'Hurry spoils curry, rush makes worry

Across the bridge at Karanprayeg to The Tourist Rest House, where Richard and I got an ensuite double next to Julia's room, with John downstairs not ensuite. The bathroom floor becomes awash when the toilet is flushed, and the entire bathroom is the shower area. For the first time, no loo rolls are provided, so my first of two takes a real hammering.

Karanprayeg

Off to the fleshpots, as usual smelling of urine and kerosene. Try in vain to find a postcard shop but only manage business cards.

Go to a tea shop run by small boys, then on to the Khalsa restaurant where we see a white (English) couple who express surprise at seeing us. Usual Indian fare, and Julia's front tooth breaks off.

Back to the Rest House for the first assault on my bottle of Glenmorangie, in the garden on a lovely evening. Good view to the town and most pleasant relaxation before another night of up and down to the loo. I hope Richard wasn't too disturbed.

Anil is worried. Tomorrow's road has landslides and may need to be substituted by a very long alternative route.

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