
Thursday 11 November
Yak Kharka to Thorung Phedi
Itinerary: DAY 11 Thorung
Phedi (4,420m) We
continue to move north passing through Leder (4,176m) on this treeless alpine
valley. Crossing Jhargeng Khola to its west bank we walk over loose scree on
the steep-sided valley to Thorung Phedi in time for lunch. The afternoon is
spent relaxing and saving energy for tomorrow's climb. (3 - 4 hours walk).
[Diarist: Martin]
Oh dear. Today we
find that George Bush has beaten John Kerry to the US President's position.
Usual 6 am tea from
Sagar, shortly followed by hot water, packing up, and a stroll to the tea house
where we are served breakfast at 7 am. Porridge, always topped with muesli, and doused
with honey in many of our cases, followed by a bread muffin and a fried egg. It
made a nice sandwich.
We got away at 7:45,
on our own for a change. Another beautiful day, but we have turned a corner
from Manang so the sun doesn't light our path until nearly 8:30. By then we
have reached 4200 metres and have a short break to re-group. Nabrash is worried
about being told off for going too fast - we must let the kitchen to catch up,
and washing up is a hard slow process at this altitude due to the low
temperatures.
I'm wearing thicker
gloves and my hands warm up fairly quickly, but my feet, whilst not really
cold, do not feel comfortably warm until 9 am. The problem is we can't walk
fast as we get out of breath. Sue and I did have a walking race along a flat
section to the 4200m break - that and a bit of jogging on the spot did help us
to warm up.
At 9:30 we had an
hour's break for the leading group - Andrew came in 25 minutes behind the first
to arrive, at an outdoor tea shop with a resident goat that expected food from
everyone. It was a fat goat. Noisy Spanish, then the familiar French, arrive.
4390 metres, 13C, 597 millibars. Lovely views in all directions. Lots of naks
seen on the way, many with young.
Approaching the tea stop on the ascent to Phedi, with Annapurna 111 and Gangapurna
The tea shop was
just a brick shelter relocated to this point quite recently when the main route
was changed to this western side of the valley. A new bridge had been built
this year (2061 in Nepal).
Another half hour, spent chatting to Mark about work related topics, on the heels
of Nabrash, took us to Thorong Phedi - 4500 metres according to my altimeter,
but 4430 metres according to Kev Reynolds' book. Some adjustments may be
needed, but the statistics for today are:
Start: 4030 metres
Ascent: 485 metres
Descent: -15 metres
Finish: 4500 metres
Time: 3.5 hours
Stops: 1.0 hours
Walking time: 2.5
hours
The fat goat
Yak
The route ahead to Thorung Phedi
High camp at Thorung Phedi
And so, by 11 am we
were at 'base camp' for our attempt at the crux of the trek - the Thorong La
pass - 5415 metres. We were soon shown to our nearby tents, where we vegged,
reading and preparing gear for tomorrow. Then we adjourned for lunch in the
porters' dining area at the Thorong Phedi Hotel - quite a smart place. Trekkers
staying at the hotel have their own posh area, but our quarters are better than
the mess tent.
There is hydro power
here, and a TV blasted Nepalese pop music, then an Indian film, from the corner
of the large room. Our porters sat glued to the action, including Sherpa Hosta.
The porters eat rice and potatoes in large quantities, with their fingers
mostly, whilst we enjoy fried frankfurter type sausages, potatoes, coleslaw and
bread, followed by tinned peaches and lemon tea.
Sanjeev sets out
tomorrow's timetable - tea at 4:30 am, breakfast at 5:00, leave 5:30 (no
washing water) This sounds fine. And so by after 1 pm, we are well fed and
adjourn for another spell of rest in the tents. Hot water for our last wash
before Muktinath soon arrives, so we chill out, clean, whilst the sun warms the
tents.
The only 'cloud on
the horizon' is some high cloud to the south that could herald a weather front.
We hope the brilliant weather will last another day though.
Here the pressure
is 587 mb - quite low.
Camp kitchen
The day ends early
after another good meal in the porters' dining room, with a film on in the
background. The meal was at 6 pm, bed at 7:30, ready for the hard day ahead. A
game of Uno had passed the time before dinner.
The view ahead, from high camp