Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 52 - Wednesday 15 September 2004 - Stage 43
Postcard Summary (on yesterday's card)
Hotel
Residence Jeanne D’Arc to Las Illas
Long walk through Forests, partly in
cloud – 8.7 hours, 14 km, 1400m ascent
After a dry start, more rain today, but
over a ridge, the first sight of the Mediterranean ! Having not had a navigation error for a
while, we had one today – in the cloud we struggled to find the summit of Roc
de France – succeeded eventually! But no
views! Nice route down, overlooking the
sea, to Las Illas, a hamlet with a homely gite, which we shared with Vincent
and Ann again, and a good restaurant with nice steak, and chocolate gateau!
Diary Entry (by Sue)
An ascent of Roc
de Frausa Oriental (1450 metres) and our last excursion into Spain
It was a
comfortable, if warm and very wet night in Amelie (rather relieved not to be
camping). A nice breakfast was laid out in the Salon de Telévision and we left
at 8.30, where the market was set up outside.
It was dry to
start and the path rose straight from the town centre. The steepest part was
closest to town, similar to yesterday. Very humid and sweaty until we got
higher. These hills are almost entirely wooded, so only occasional views can be
seen, including a good one of Amelie and the Canigou massif.
Besides the
trees, all we see is the forbidding farmhouse of Can Felix, deep in woods and
with dire warnings not to get too close in both guide books, a tumble-down sheep
farm, and a col. Mountain mix sustained us for the morning, which turned out to
be long. After leaving GR10, the cloud came in, swirling around the trees.
When the path
started to descend steeply, instead of climbing to the summit, we became a bit
suspicious - it was incorrect and lost us 15 to 20 minutes. However, the error
had been made earlier, by missing a sign to the left, so we wandered around in
the cloud amongst rocks, with the occasional glimpse of the view, before
backtracking.
Lunch was eaten hurriedly in the cloud
around 2 pm, when hunger was starting to make me irritable. A brew went down
particularly well. Finally, the summit was located, but no views, sadly. During
the climb, earlier, the path rose to a ridge where we had our first view of the
sea, with 2½ days to go. It was a welcome sight!
The descent to the hamlet of Las Illas
was good, with soft ground down a ridge in beech forest, then a narrow path, and
finally track and more path. The weather improved, with a cool breeze (hardly a
warm Mediterranean one!) and views of hills before the sea. We came across our
first border stone for weeks (number 557!) as we crossed back into France
Looking down to Las Illas
Las Illas has a really nice gîte for 16
people. Arrived at about 5.30. Alone until 6.30, when Vincent and Ann arrive. We
have a bowl of tea and showers. Outside, the weather has deteriorated again and
rain is teeming down. After 7, we have to run the short distance up the road to
the Hostel de Trabucayres to avoid a soaking. Here, a nice meal of salad, steak
and excellent chocolate gateau, enjoyed in the company of Vincent and Ann. They
tell us about the boat they are doing up to live in - a Dutch Chalk or barge. There
is only one other couple in the restaurant. The rain has stopped when we return
for bed around 9.30 pm.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
17.5 km,
1250 metres ascent, 8.7 hours
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