October 1997 - The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route - Day 5 - October 15

Wednesday 15th October

Early start at about 7am - we had no breakfast as the Rest House kitchen could only provide one cup of tea every n minutes. So we left in search of breakfast and found it about 10 yards beyond the Rest House entrance. We were watched by locals who Richard fed as they waited for their own breakfasts. They courteously allowed us to eat first. These little tea rooms / restaurants seat just a few people, this one was pretty small - just a glorified shack, with a dressmaker busy making his wares on the lower storey down the bank to the river.

Karanprayeg

Everyone is so friendly and courteous. Namaste, namaste, they say, putting hands together and bowing their heads. We try to reciprocate. Some look ferocious, some down and out. Many are just curious, and many regard having their photo taken as a great privilege.

On the bridge at Karanprayeg

The early morning journey through Karanprayeg was not without incident. A bus seemed to have parked up in the main junction, completely blocking it. Horns blared from all directions before the driver eventually returned.

A pleasant road led to the first landslide, in a village after about an hour. 

The first landslip

After much discussion, and testing of the slippery rock surface, the jeep and Tata decided not to attempt the temporary surface (no one else was). I should mention that a Jeep containing all our supplies, tents, etc plus Pawan (cook), Bagwan (assistant cook), and Alum Singh (otherwise known as Rocket) had set off from Mercury camp just before us and had been seen en route and stayed at the Rest House.

A view from the first landslip

Solution: hire a bus. Several buses appear to be trapped between landslides. All our gear was transferred to one of them, for our use only, and we were soon on our way for half an hour to the next landslip. 

This bus, trapped between landslips, took us to the second landslip

This was substantial and there was no question of doing anything other than hiring another bus at the Debal side and again transferring the gear. As before, we were not allowed to assist and were told to go to the end of the slip and walk on down the road. We did this, slowly leaving the tooting of traffic at the block - how they manage to make such a noise in such circumstances I don't know. Lots of hooting here.

The path between the landslips was precarious, the scenery beyond beautiful - a wide valley with wild dogs / foxes? running purposefully (mating?).

John crossing the second landslip

Martin negotiates the second landslip

Looking back to the second landslip

Another twisty road on a bigger bus led on to Debal (1218 metres).

Debal

We stopped here for lunch, classroom style, in a typical small restaurant with a corrugated roof. Final provisions were stowed, and the bus and gear continued up the motorable track to Mandoli (2134 metres).

So, armed with daysacks, our trek began. The road contoured up the valley very gently, the gradient barely noticeable despite the 900 metre climb (over a distance of about 20 km).

After pausing a few times for the other three to catch up, and briefly playing cricket with the locals, I finally couldn't cope any longer with the slow pace and headed off alone.

Four views from the road to Mandoli

I have forgotten to mention that the Indians seem to play cricket anywhere and everywhere, here on a precipitous road with an old piece of wood for a stump, elsewhere on any sort of rough land, using such things as piles of bricks for stumps.

The 900 metre climb took about 4½ to 5 hours - all afternoon - through a fairly monotonous cultivated area with flour mills abundant and several small villages. I stopped for refreshment at the 10 km to Mandoli sign, when a bus passed. I wondered whether the others would be in it.

With about 4 km to go, I eschewed a shortcut up the hill as I wasn't certain of the direction of the village. I was tiring as the road finally approached Mandoli. Continuing bowel problems were not helping.

Darkness was imminent. Various people tried to attract me into their accommodation, but I trudged on hopefully up the hill in search of tents. Apparently, Anil had gone looking for us, but he missed me as I wasn't on the direct path. Anyway, the tents were at the top of the hill in the grounds of a temple. We have three 3-man tents, so there is plenty of room for two to share (Richard and me tonight) and for the other two to live in luxury. There is also a small dining tent with table and chairs, for our use, and a larger and tattier cook tent, where Pawan and Bagwan are busy preparing food.

The campsite at Mandoli

The last rays of light shine brightly on distant snow-capped peaks - Nanda Ghantid perhaps - I'm just in time for a photo. Now darkness comes quickly. We are perched on the Lohajang Khal pass at 2,590 metres, with views of high mountains to the north, and views far down below to today's walk and beyond, to the south.

The others arrive with Anil after about an hour at 6:45. Anil is relieved to see that I have arrived safely. Soon we are all installed in our tents and then in the dining tent for Pawan's first meal - vegetable soup followed by rice, dahl, salad, onion and cabbage, and various other dishes (paratha, chapati), followed by bananas in custard. It doesn't sound much but it was voluminous and excellent. Great restraint was needed to look after my bowels. Failed.

It was a lovely night with many stars and a nearly full moon.

Adjourned at around 9:30 for the best sleep of the holiday.

My map of the area, courtesy of Ian Inch (click on it to enlarge)

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Sunday 5 January 2025 - Snow in Timperley Stops Play

Given the forecast, doom and gloom, it wasn't a surprise to wake to snowy surroundings this morning. Probably the whole country was blanketed and many roads and airports are closed.

The Community Run at which I was due to volunteer as a marshal was cancelled, as was tomorrow's jazz at Eagley.

So Sue and I enjoyed our regular 5km stroll from home. There's no need to use the snowed up cars today.

The Bridgewater Canal as it passes our road looks a little lower, and a little muddier than usual, perhaps due to the disastrous collapse of the canal bank near Dunham Massey on New Year's Eve. Am I being pessimistic or will they take years longer to repair the 300 metre collapsed section than it took to build it in the first place some 260 years ago?

Here's the canal today about 50 metres from our house.

Our route follows Timperley Brook for a while. This seems to have returned to its normal level for the time being.

Loads of folk were out sledging down the embankment that provides a flood defence in times of heavy rainfall. I don't think it was used in the NYE storm.

Somebody has been busy - there were lots of children and dog walkers about despite the early hour.

De Quincey park was a little forlorn, as the tree cover made it warm enough for the snow to have become rather slushy. It was warmer, with less snow here than at home just a kilometre away.

Shortly before reaching home, we cross Sinderland Brook, which we were pleased to see was at its normal level. The streets on our estate seem to be well prorected from flooding; we never feature on the flood warnings.

It's raining now.

Saturday 4 January 2025 - Wythenshawe parkrun #601

Luckily the Wythenshawe course could be adjusted to avoid a rather large puddle and the event went ahead, numbers being boosted by the fact that several other local parkruns had been cancelled due to ice or flooding. Well done to the organisers and the 28 volunteers who turned up, together with 367 participants.

Andy took to a pedestal that hasn't been used for some time to provide a briefing. "Don't upset the dog walkers, I hate dealing with their complaints."

I'm still not able to run due to a poorly knee, so I remained near the back, taking a few photos at the start before everyone had disappeared (until they lapped me) into the distance.

Luckily it wasn't raining and my Keen trail shoes kept out the water in the squidgy bits near the start.

Jane was at the finish to record me coming home in position 353 in 43:46, about 20 minutes ahead of the tail walker, so I'm happy with that. There were a record (I think) 7 participants in my 75-79 age group.

Some ladies finished behind me - full results are here.

We adjourned, as usual, to the now very friendly tearoom, where Rufus warmed up by drinking Andy's coffee.

The poor dog wasn't happy. His feet were a bit cool, but he had made it round the course with Laura.

As always, a splendid way to start the weekend.

Meanwhile, Isabella's Christmas present, a Playmobil City Life school, was assembled with a bit of help from Grandma and Grandad.

Hello 2025 - Warrington parkrun #505 - Wednesday 1 January

In days past we celebrated New Year with a walk up Scafell Pikes or Snowdon, or similar. Today we simply had an early night and made the short drive to Warrington for one of the few parkruns in the area that was taking place, overnight rain having caused extensive flooding.

As usual, I set off at the back of the 351 participants. There were a few puddles and one ankle deep stretch of flooding, but nothing dangerous enough to warrant cancellation.

Spashing through the flooded section

Beside football pitches before a section along the Trans Pennine Trail

Returning through the flood

This marshall, prepared for incidents in the flooded section, looks happy enough, but admitted that his welly clad feet were freezing

After the run

Full results are here. I attended the first Warrington parkrun some years ago. Now they are up to number 505.

Nearby, other Wythenshawe regulars were enjoying Phoenix parkrun.

And Keith and his mates were at Ormskirk.

Here's their run director.

Bye bye 2024

Another day, another party, all very jolly, and we wish everyone, family and readers, a happy and healthy 2025, as the sun sets from our bedroom window in Timperley.

October 1997 - The 'Shipton/Tilman' Route - Day 4 - October 14

Tuesday 14th October

Breakfast at 7am, then 8am departure was the plan. By 8:30 ish we were loaded into the Tata driven by Vicram, and off to the Mercury HQ via various errands for Vicram and clever dodging of the toll barriers.

Anil joined us for the scenic journey to Karanprayeg, about 175 km (I think). We stopped first in Devprayag for more disgustingly sweet tea and also, a painted man came in and required to be photographed looking fierce, for money. Richard obliged. 

The Alaknanda River

We had a splendid view down to the confluence of the Alaknanda River and the river from Tehri, which converge into the Ganges. We watched rafters embarking on long trips down the rapids. Anil likes these rapids - they are very technical. He is more into rafting than mountains these days despite having been up some notable summits. He loves the rivers.

Alaknanda River confluence at Devprayag

On to Srinagar (not THE Srinagar) where Sudhil comes from. [Anil comes from nearby Nanital, which he says is beautiful - judging by my borrowed maps Ian Inch has also been there.]

Srinagar is a bustling place which doesn't sell postcards, but we visit the post office (very old English like) to deplete the stamp reserves by getting stamps for 20 cards each (except John - 4). They cost 7 rupee each - my first non-communal expenditure of the trip.

Srinagar

Soon we continue, to search for a suitable wayside restaurant for lunch. The road weaves its way along the valley in a switchback series of thousands of bends, gently rising and falling with the contours. Driving here is much more enjoyable for Vicram. it's a bit like constantly driving up and down less steep and slightly wider versions of Hard Knott and Wrynose passes, with constantly interesting river views (Anil observantly reccies future rafting trips) and good if monotonous mountain scenery - some bare, some scrubby, some forested, some cultivated in steep terraces.

A view from the switchback road

We stop at the Mahesh Restaurant in a deep curve in the road where a river descends. The sun has just been obscured by mountains, but we eat good food off (plates) a marble table still hot from the sun. A pleasant meal despite my dicky stomach.

Breaking rocks at the roadside

The road continued much as before on to Karanprayeg. There are some helpful signs on this road through gorges, where on one side there is a wall and on the other side a precipice (these sections mixed in with the Hard Knott / Wrynose sections):

'No race no rally, enjoy the beauty of Valley'
'Do not gossip let him drive'
'Be cautious on my curves'
'Low your gear, curve is near'
'Darling I like you but not so fast'
'If you love her divorce speed'
'Caution, shooting boulders are active, slow down'
'Your hurry may cause others worrying
'Life is precious, drive cautiously'
'Hurry spoils curry, rush makes worry

Across the bridge at Karanprayeg to The Tourist Rest House, where Richard and I got an ensuite double next to Julia's room, with John downstairs not ensuite. The bathroom floor becomes awash when the toilet is flushed, and the entire bathroom is the shower area. For the first time, no loo rolls are provided, so my first of two takes a real hammering.

Karanprayeg

Off to the fleshpots, as usual smelling of urine and kerosene. Try in vain to find a postcard shop but only manage business cards.

Go to a tea shop run by small boys, then on to the Khalsa restaurant where we see a white (English) couple who express surprise at seeing us. Usual Indian fare, and Julia's front tooth breaks off.

Back to the Rest House for the first assault on my bottle of Glenmorangie, in the garden on a lovely evening. Good view to the town and most pleasant relaxation before another night of up and down to the loo. I hope Richard wasn't too disturbed.

Anil is worried. Tomorrow's road has landslides and may need to be substituted by a very long alternative route.

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