Friday 19 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 34 - Stage 25 (part)/26 (variant) - Étang d'Uls to Sentein via Pic de Crabère (2629 metres)

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 510 km)     

Ascent: 700 metres (Cum: 28,650 metres)
                     
Time taken: 8.5 hrs including 2.25 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny and hot - a brilliant day

Clear skies were expected, given the drop in temperature in our tents. They duly arrived, and we were away by 7.30am, just before the sun would have hit the tents. 

A tramp west, through dew sodden grass, and past Dog's Tooth Violets and evidence of moles, soon located the GR10 path, along which we headed - across a snow slope visible from our tents - to Pas de Bouc and Col d'Aueran. Graham diverted to a minor peak (or two?) whilst I ditched my rucksack and headed up the 450 metre climb to Pic de Crabère. I met a couple of girls coming down, and reached the 2629 metre summit with ... you maybe guessed - Pierre and Yolaine. They had stayed overnight in Refuge de L'Étang d'Araing and were bagging this hill before continuing on to the gite at Eylie.

This popular peak, on the border with Spain, enjoys a fine mountain view in all directions. Pierre's map was spread out on the windless summit by a cornice beyond which oblivion awaited the unwary. A fabulous spot. In perfect weather. 

Graham arrived after a while, and obliged by taking today's picture from the summit. 

Sue will be sad to have missed this high point, especially as P&Y were there.

Apparently a pair of Lammergauer vultures live hereabouts, but they don't get going until a bit later in the morning, when the thermals are better. So we missed them. And the bears.

We ambled down at our own paces, meeting Philippe and six of his teenage charges on the way up. Philippe looked very macho in his leader's uniform! We picked up our bags at the col (me and Graham anyway) and headed down to the Refuge for Caffè au Lait.

Au revoir, P&Y, "a bientot". (?)

The Tour du Biros path to Sentein was a delight. After dropping gently over open ground for 500 metres or so, it entered beautiful beech woods for the remainder of the descent to the valley. There were a few people around, but the path could hardly be described as busy.

The facilities in Sentein are basic - a campsite and an alimentary (basic food shop). But 'oh joy' - for the first time in two weeks we have reached somewhere little affected by the inundation. There is no mud!

They were lucky. This is on the very edge of the wide area of devastation that has affected Spanish towns and villages as much as it has affected the French places we have been through. 

We were able to re-stock, and purchase ingredients - including an essential bottle of vino - for a tasty stew, in this quiet - verging on the 'dead' on the 'quiet' scale, village. 

Goodbye for now, from a lovely evening in France. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Thursday 18 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 34 - Stage 25 (part) - Fos to Étang d'Uls

Distance: 15 km (Cum: 493 km)     

Ascent: 1400 metres (Cum: 27,950 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.25 hrs including 0.75 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny at first, clouding over by 1pm, raining by 3pm

We should have known better than to try St-Béat yesterday.  I wanted to give them some business after their troubles, but they were still clearing up, and with no food available we made the decision to go up to Fos. 

The whole valley has been inundated with a thick layer of mud - I'd guess about 8 inches. As Fos is a bit higher it hasn't been so badly affected. But Philippe had spent the last three weeks shovelling mud when he should have been getting his accommodation ready for guests. We used it anyway. Thanks Philippe. 

Thanks also to Pierre and Yolaine, who must think we are stalking them. It was helpful to have their assistance with the gite booking yesterday, and a pleasure to have their company last night. 

We breakfasted with them and set off up the GR10 path around 8.30am, half an hour after they had left. We'd waited for fresh bread to be delivered for our 'picnic' provisions. Pierre and Yolaine had got food last night from the small shop that the Cicerone website said was closed.  That was our reason for going to St-Béat, whose shops are currently submerged in mud.

It was something of a surprise to come across Pierre and Yolaine fairly soon after we'd set off. They are pictured with Graham, explaining how both they and a couple of Dutch lads had taken a wrong turn and found themselves on an alternative GR10 path back to Fos.

The route spent a gentle 8km or so on tarmac before heading up steeply into trees. A fine track all the way - an old mining/mule track I'd guess. 

We passed and re-passed both Pierre and Yolaine and the Dutch pair, who introduced themselves as Matthew and Jonathan. They are backpacking GR10 from Luchon to Aulus-les-Bains, a nine day trip, so we may see them again. 

Incidentally, Roland and Marie apparently decided to omit a section of the route after needing to visit Lourdes for 'repairs'.  So they are now a few days ahead.

There was a slightly iffy stream crossing under a huge bank of snow. We all got across that fine, but Jonathan seemed to have executed a nose dive into some thick mud the other side when we wandered past.

We arrived at our planned camping place - Cabane d'Uls - shortly before 1pm, which was about when the rain was due to arrive. I insisted on eating my lunch. Graham wanted to wait until after we'd set up camp, so waited patiently for me to finish. 

We then decided to divert from the GR10 path and head for a further half hour or so to this small lake, Étang d'Uls. On the way we passed Pierre and Yolaine. "Just like Scotland" they correctly observed. Our campsite is shown, shortly before the rain arrived, and indeed it could be an image from the TGO Challenge! 

It's a perfect spot, with no animals and no troublesome insects. Perhaps the bears have seen off all the other animals. ..

There's no phone signal, so if this posting does transmit you'll know we have survived the bear threat for at least tonight. 

Having got the tents up by 2pm we've been able to enjoy an indulgently lazy afternoon and evening, rather confined to barracks due to the rain. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (12)

The Great Yellow Gentian - swathes of it are just coming into flower. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 17 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 33 - Stage 24 (variant b) - Camp near Border Stone 386 to Fos

Distance: 28 km (Cum: 478 km)      

Ascent: 980 metres (Cum: 26,550 metres)
                     
Time taken: 11.25 hrs including 3.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: cloudy morning, then sunny periods before evening showers

A long day, not without a few difficulties. 

It started well, with a synchronized 7am departure from our excellent camping spot. It took just a couple of minutes to regain the broad ridge,  and then a couple of hours to reach the GR10 path from Luchon. 

Overnight rain had left the vegetation soaking wet, so that slowly seeped into my leaky boots, despite wearing gaiters.

Goats and Fire Salamanders littered the path (Pierre and Yolaine later reported seeing a huge viper), and choughs and cloud rolled in - obscuring the expansive mountain views, albeit cloud laden views. 

A shepherd was passed, and we saw a couple of people ahead, but nobody else was seen before the descent to St-Béat.

There were many good camping spots on the descent beyond L'Étang du Dessus. 

We abandoned GR10 at the Cabanes des Courraus, heading along a path marked with red and yellow paint, in the direction of St-Béat. It was clearly a little used route. The going as far as the Col de la Lisse was a repeat of our 'jungle' experience earlier on the trip. We had to make our way over steep ground, negotiating fallen trees and slippery rocks. It was a relief to reach the col. Time for lunch. 

Happily, the path down to St-Béat was somewhat easier, though that didn't prevent a mishap.

All went well down to an open ended cabin at about 1100 metres. Today's picture - of the Garonne valley - was taken from here.  We'd already passed a couple of bothies that could provide accommodation for the desperate. We weren't desperate. I pottered on down the path after a relaxing break, with Graham just behind. So far as I could see the path was well marked. But Graham missed the marks and spent the best part of an hour looking for me. Meanwhile I had ambled into the sadly devastated village of St-Béat. I knew there had been flood damage, but this seemed even worse than Barèges. A café and the Tourist Information were open. Very little else. The campsites we had planned to use were completely devastated, with caravan debris protruding from a deep layer of mud that has engulfed the whole valley. The nearest food shop was said to be a further 3km down the valley. 

Graham eventually appeared, having lost his hat as well as me. His state of happiness did not improve with the knowledge that St-Béat wasn't really a very good place to spend the night. 

Down or Up the valley?

We decided to go Up. A call to the gite brought no reply, so I sent a text message to Pierre, who I knew would be there tonight. He kindly set them up for our arrival. 

We rejoined GR10 rather than walk all the way up the busy road to Spain. This involved quite a bit more climbing. I won't say how much just in case Graham reads this - he may have preferred to stay lower.

The gite was full - of school parties unable to use the campsite. But we are happily installed in an annexe,  together with Pierre and Yolaine, with whom we've enjoyed the evening. 

I may add a bit more tomorrow, but it's time to close now as the bleeps from this gadget will be keeping Graham awake.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Tuesday 16 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 32 - Stage 24 (variant) - Bagnères-de-Luchon to Spanish water point just beyond Border Post 386 (1850 metres)

Distance: 13 km (Cum: 450 km)      

Ascent: 1370 metres (Cum: 25,570 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.0 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: overcast at the start, with a short shower before hot sunny intervals, then stormy

Inevitably, today's start was a little on the slow side. A sociable breakfast, settling up with Mike and Annette at Villa Portillon, a few whimpers from other guests who didn't like the feel of my rucksack (nor did I), and goodbyes to Sue who came with me to a rendezvous with Graham at the St-Mamet road junction. 

Photos at 9am to record the moment captured sight of our nice clean clothing and 15+ kilo bags before we embarked on a long, sweaty ascent. We didn't touch GR10 today, our aim being to traverse the Tuc de Bidur ridge before dropping down to camp at L'Étang du Dessus, which is on GR10. 

We made good speed up the steep trail that runs through the woods to the south of St-Mamet, before joining a surfaced road up to Herrau. A right turn before Sarousgas took us south west before finally delivering us to the ridge that we'd been aiming for all morning. 

It had taken over three hours, but given our heavy loads and an 1100 metre ascent, we were quite pleased with that. 

Lunch was taken at about 1pm near Pic de Saublanque, on the border with Spain beyond Border Post number 382. 

We then moved swiftly up to Tuc de Poujastou (2015 metres) and we then had our eyes firmly fixed on our next target, Tuc de Bidur. But to the west a black lump had enveloped the Néouvielle and was heading briskly in our direction. A storm. We continued along the easy but steep sided ridge with fine views, not expecting any escape route to appear. 

A water point (trough for cows, with a pipe from a spring) suddenly appeared below the remains of a cornice on the Spanish side just beyond Border Post 386. The storm was imminent so we rushed down and pitched our tents. Well, we tried - it always seems to be a bit hit and miss on these 'day 1' occasions. I managed to get my Terra Nova Solar Competition 2 up before the rain. The only problem was that the flysheet was inside out. So water poured in through the unprotected vents. I couldn't find a cloth, so had an interesting time with a minor flood.

Meanwhile, Graham was a bit slower with his Vaude Power Lizard,  and dived inside to avoid the rain, before installing the end poles. He finished up sitting out the storm in a puddle, literally. 

The tents had been pitched at 2pm. A bit early to stop for the day? We decided to re-pitch them properly and enjoy a brew. By which time it was 3.30pm. The weather looked clear for an hour or so,  but having found this nice spot (pictured) we decided to stay, and get an early start tomorrow. 

A good decision. Whilst the sun is shining at times, at other times the ridge is enveloped in cloud, and at 5.30pm, when we would still have been walking, we endured a violent thunderstorm. 

It's great up here. Wild camping is wonderful at times like this. 

PS Thanks for your comment Conrad. I think you are right. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Tuesday 16 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Phase Two

0900 - Luchon

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 15 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 31 - On Holiday in Luchon

Not much walking today for Sue and me - about 4km, though Graham was despatched up Pic de Céciré (2403 metres) by way of altitude training.                               

Weather: sunny

Sue enjoyed her last day in Luchon by going swimming this morning and visiting the thermal baths (a series of long hot tunnels full of sulphurous vapours that cure all ills) this afternoon. She has a day off in Toulouse tomorrow before Jet2ing back to work on Wednesday. 

She's pictured above at Col de la Coume de Bourg, on Saturday, looking at the final barrier to our successful completion of 'Phase 1' of this two month trip. The cornice was of course safely negotiated.  Graham will have been there today on his own mini adventure. 

The second image is the last you'll see of me with Sue for a while, as veteran TGO Challenger, Graham - with 22 Challenges to his name, has chosen to accompany me on the next stage of this mission to wear my feet down to the bone.

Bye bye Sue! (Sob)

The bottom image shows Paul Lucia's excellent Cicerone guide for GR10. This is not our 'bible' as we have never intended to follow GR10 precisely, but it has been a valuable aid to the 23 stages completed so far, and I have based the daily headings on Paul's stage numbers in case any readers want to relate our own trip to the stages in the guide book.  The book has a little too much by way of detailed directions on how to follow the well waymarked path for my liking, and not enough peripheral information on points and places of interest, but I can see the rationale behind its structure. Indeed, some readers may well benefit from the detailed directions, especially in misty weather. 

Actually, apart from the three days from Lescun to Gourette, we have stayed pretty close to the GR10 route and its attendant facilities (gites etc).

As Graham and I have tents, we also have greater flexibility, so we'll be straying from GR10 by staying high at times, but also by diverting lower down valleys to re-supply and to seek out the odd restaurant.  The weather will also influence our itinerary. It seems set fair at present, subject to afternoon storms (mountain weather).

Since we'll be camping for much of the time, we'll have to move into a 'power saving' mode, so these entries may be shorter and responses to the few comments that are made may be rarer than the comments themselves, though I'll always agree that 'the world is always a better place in the warm afterglow of an Ashes victory!' (thanks Jules)

The remote nature of the area we are moving in to may delay some reports due to the lack of a phone signal. 

Other GR10 ers: 

We seem to have lost all except Pierre and Yolaine, who turned up here today. They took a longer, higher route and will rest here before continuing. They joined us tonight for beers, and an excellent meal at the Hotel of Two Countries. 

Kit check:

Only a few things have broken, all as a result of old age or incidents beyond their control.  My sleeping bag (vandalised), my Kindle (broken screen - I may have sat on it), trousers (ripped backside), t-shirt (yuk), Pacerpole tip (broken).  Some stuff such as thick gloves and over-mitts may not now be needed so will be sent home with Sue. 

Sue's kit has fared better. Had she been continuing from here she would have replaced her Bridgedale socks. Miraculously, her new Scarpa boots haven't been a problem, and her achilles tendon problem has been (just about) contained. 

My knee problems have also diminished. They have behaved quite reasonably after the first few days.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (11)

Sorry, tractor lovers, there isn't one in sight. We have however seen several varieties of Spring Gentian during the course of our perambulations. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Sunday 14 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 30 - Bastille Day in Bagnères-de-Luchon

Walking around Luchon on our day off - maybe 6km.                               

Weather: sunny and hot after overnight rain - with the usual routine of afternoon showers. 

Last night we enjoyed good salads at Café de la Paix (which we went to by mistake - thinking it was the Glacier Restaurant recommended by Annette).  Then we admired a procession of Luchon's townsfolk and their various modes of transport, varying from police mountain bikes to full scale fire engines, with horse mounted 'guides' in hot pursuit, furiously cracking their whips.

Today everyone reassembled outside the church at noon for a more in depth performance. We'd collected Graham from the station by then, and enjoyed a coffee with him whilst looking on at the proceedings (pictured from our coffee cups), which took about half an hour before the entire entourage set off to march around the town, again. 

Then Graham himself was marched off to Camping Au Fil de l'Oô (formerly Beauregarde, where we've stayed before), where he will spend the next two nights. His mission as courier of my sparkling new sleeping bag having been accomplished, he now has the option of being sent home or being given another task.

Since my guide, Sue, has commitments in the UK, and has to leave at this point, I've decided to appoint Graham to the position of Assistant Guide. For the avoidance of doubt, and for consistency with his courier duties, this is an unpaid position. It lacks remuneration. 

"Ok, I'll get the train back from Vicdessos", Sue mouthed on behalf of Graham, who was tired from the overnight journey (despite the staff at Toulouse station providing a sleeping car for his sole use).

And that's it really. A day off in Luchon, with Graham's arrival, all our clothes machine washed thanks to Annette, England winning the first Ashes Test Match, and the prospect of a good meal followed by fireworks tonight and another day off tomorrow.  All is well with the world. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Saturday 13 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 29 - Stage 23 - Lac d'Oô to Bagnères-de-Luchon

Distance: 20 km (Cum: 437 km)      

Ascent: 1070 metres (Cum: 24,200 metres)
                      
Time taken: 8.5 hrs including 2.0 hrs stops                                      

Weather: high cloud, then sunny, before late afternoon rain

A 7am breakfast gave us a prompt start on what promised to be a longish day.  It was a quick breakfast. Two pieces of stale bread with a bit of butter and jam, plus a cup of coffee. A far cry from last night's repast. 

Woods shaded us from the early sun as we made our way up towards Lac Espingo, with ever improving views down to Lac d'Oô.

Two walkers with axes and crampons passed purposefully by on their way to a more demanding target than ours. 

The weather had a rather sullen look, with high cloud from France eclipsing the sunshine from Spain. 

Soon our path doubled back to provide good views down to Lac d'Oô. 

We overtook yesterday's sandal clad pair, who would actually have managed fine today, as any difficulties were minimal and had perhaps been exaggerated in yesterday's conversations. The 'snow' situation is no doubt improving by the day. 

Our first of the day's three cols was reached at around 9.25.

The route then contoured around to another minor col, crossing difficult snowfields on the way. 

See carefully composed image. 

Well, perhaps they weren't too difficult. Not as hard as the final barrier that we negotiated a few minutes later, after some kindly Dutch backpackers showed us the 

way. 

Once this little impasse had been negotiated we romped down to Superbagnères for a lunch of chips and coke (how did that happen?) in the company of the four jolly Dutchmen.

Then it was all downhill, through the woods to Luchon, arriving at 4pm at Mike and Annette Jones' s splendid B&B, Villa Portillon, where we are happily installed for the next three nights. 

Celebratory drinks and meal have put paid to anything more lucid tonight, but I'll add some more about today on our day off tomorrow. 

Goodnight from the end of a successful 'Phase 1' of this trip. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Friday 12 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 28 - Stage 22 - Germ to Lac d'Oô

Distance: 17 km (Cum: 417 km)      

Ascent: 1300 metres (Cum: 23,130 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.0 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny, clear and hot, with cloud and rain developing later

Christophe's breakfast at the Auberge de Germ was excellent, setting us up for a fine mountain day. His dinner last night was also one of the best of the trip - cheese and ham salad, confit of duck with veg and sautéed potatoes, and chocolate tart. Delicious! 

It was much clearer than yesterday, and the views back to previous days' perambulations steadily improved as we gained height along a gently rising path lined by a variety of orchids.

After this relatively gentle section we rose to Cabane d'Ourtiga, a bothy in the middle of a herd of cows, with horse flies in attendance. 

Sue is pictured here, with the mountains that abut the border with Spain to the south. (A rare picture in this direction as the lighting is always better looking towards the east.) 

It took us a while to find the ongoing path, which was after crossing many rivulets. Thousands of small bronze beetles were fluttering around. It's important to follow the waymarks here - keep to the left to find them. 

The path then rose steeply - as relentlessly thrutchy as at any time on our trip. Beyond a large toad, the Pas de Couret d'Esquierry (2131 metres) marked a return to well trodden paths. Until now we had seen just two backpackers, but a couple lounged on the col and day walkers were a common sight from this point. 

We glanced back to the snow clad slopes of the Néouvielle for one last time, then headed down past whistling marmots to the fleshpots of the Val d'Astau. 

Asphodel adorned the hillside in vast quantities, replaced later by Cypress Spurge. At around 1700 metres we passed an idyllic place to camp. My map indicates that I once did exactly that - on 18 July 1988. Lower down, large swathes of Great Yellow Gentians were getting ready to flower. 

Beyond a spot near to the valley floor where the path squeezed behind a huge chunk of snow, a lone French backpacker passed on his way from Banyuls to Hendaye. "Good luck" was exchanged. Sue wasn't that happy with that exchange as this was her penultimate day on the trail. He proudly showed us his new socks - purchased in Luchon - exactly what Sue would be doing if she was continuing from there. 

She was however pleased to find some fine specimens of Ramonda, which we hadn't previously seen on this trip. 

The Auberge d'Astau offered welcome cokes before our final 400 metre ascent to Lac d'Oô. The path up here rises very gently, so just as much energy seemed to be used in saying "bonjour" to the hundreds of people descending from their day out to the scenic lake and its spectacular waterfall. 

A friendly reception from Muriel at the small refuge, where we arrived at 4pm,  and a welcome beer (see the last posting) were followed by the usual rain that seems to arrive just as we finish our walk. Tomorrow may well be different - our luck can't last...

We are sharing the refuge with a party of six grandparents and nine children, who are all very well behaved and are having a great time.  It's lovely to see. With whom we also share the single toilet and shower, which once you get access to it is brilliant. Our washing can wait.

We endured an agonising half hour (or was it an hour, it seemed like it) listening to advice being given to an ill equipped couple who propose to continue along the GR10 route to Luchon despite some snow slopes that require proper footwear, ie boots rather than sandals. They ignored the advice. Eventually they set off along the route, planning on camping a little further on.  I hope we don't have to pick up the pieces tomorrow. 

The discussion took place in English, which Muriel also understands. There was a certain raising of eyebrows, but we weren't going to interfere as they had a guide with them to this point. 

A lovely meal was served single handedly by Muriel. Well done to her.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Hoegaarden - Fresh as a Mountain Stream

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (10)

We saw quite a few of these yesterday, and orchid lovers may have started to feel deprived.

It's the appropriately named Pyramidal Orchid (Anacamptis pyramidalis).

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Thursday 11 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 27 - Stage 21 - Saint-Lary-Soulan to Germ

Distance: 15 km (Cum: 400 km)     

Ascent: 1130 metres (Cum: 21,830 metres)
                     
Time taken: 5.75 hrs including 1.25 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny periods, rain showers after 4pm

After the excitement of the snow laden Néouvielle area (see yesterday's image), today was a short, pastoral, outing.

Breakfast was taken in a nearby boulangerie. Not having seen anyone English for a couple of days, we invited JJ to join us. Sadly he declined, blaming the lack of a shaving incident. 

Whilst it appeared cloudy when we looked skyward, we spent almost the entire day under a burning sun. It was very humid. Drippy weather. And it dripped from above during a refreshment break in Loudenvielle, and after we had arrived here at the Auberge de Germ at 3.30pm. So we were lucky with the weather today. 

We'd stocked up before leaving, so after the long ascent through ancient sunken byways - one of which sported a large and very stationary flock of sheep that blocked our way for some time - and overgrown woodland paths, with good views back to yesterday afternoon's descent (pictured, top), we were able to enjoy a baguette with sheep's cheese and tomato just beyond our high point of the day, Couret de Latuhe (1586 metres).

Eagles and red kites competed with paragliders for airspace above Loudenvielle. Luckily the airport at the resort above Germ didn't seem to be in use today. You can just about make it out on the lower image, taken at our lunch stop. To the left of the airstrip a dip on the horizon above Sue's head is the Col de Peyresourde, a Tour de France favourite and a pass that I once cycled over with a saddlebag and two panniers (all Karrimor) and half a Sturmey Archer four speed gear system. Memories!  My tent was a Karrimor Marathon - used on several 'Alpine' trips.

Anyway, our lunch spot would be a fine place from which to view the Tour, but this year we were just a few days too late. 

Today also featured more scenes of devastation - in the Aure valley, as we passed debris strewn meadows and inundated homes. 

The path down to Loudenvielle was teeming with scurrying lizards, and a rather shy large bright green specimen - about 8 inches long. 

A lad passed us on the fine path up to Germ. Then, about half way along it, we met him coming hurriedly down.  "I've seen a snake" he exclaimed, explaining that it had scared him so he had turned back. 

The Auberge de Germ is fine. Very quiet. Nobody else seems to be walking GR10, though it's possible that some folk may be at the nearby gite. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Wednesday 10 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 26 - Stage 19/20 - Chalet-Hôtel Orédon to Saint Lary Soulan

Distance: 21 km (Cum: 385 km)      

Ascent: 780 metres (Cum: 20,700 metres)
                     
Time taken: 7.5 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny periods with threatening cloud that came to nought

Christof was an excellent host at Orédon. It's a good place to visit. Last year he completed the Tourmalet stage of the Tour de France at an average speed of 28 kph. Fit guy!

The 350 metre climb back up to GR10, through lovely woodland, didn't take long. For the second day running the smell of pine assaulted our nostrils. 

Sue is pictured at Col d'Estoudou, with the Néouvielle behind her. 

Then it was down to Lac de l'Oule, where there was no need to visit the Refuge that is being rebuilt, so we turned left to the inflow of the reservoir. The lake was full, so the huge amounts of water draining into it must have been entering a hydro pipe. Strangely there were no 'no swimming' warnings. Try that at your peril!

Our first specimens of Sempervivium of the trip were spotted here. 

A brisk ascent past the torrent's collapsed walls and a concerned salamander, was followed by a superb and well visited belvedere path to Col de Portet (2215 metres).

Here cows languished in the heat, and we stopped for lunch high above our 1400 metre descent to Vielle-Aure.

Eagles soared and lesser birds of prey hovered, whilst snow finches bathed in a stream below us. A chatty bird that wasn't either a Stonechat or a Wheatear kept his beady eye on us.

The air had lost its clarity today. Yesterday's clearly defined peaks are today's ill defined ridges stretching into the distance. 

Sheep clustered together with their heads down in order to avoid what few brain cells they have from frying, and cows seemed to be trying to bury themselves in mud. A muck spreader slowly meandered down the access road, watering it?!

A long, open ridge with a vast zone of Great Yellow Gentians that were just about to flower, was the precursor to a lovely woodland descent to the village of Vielle-Aure.

Since I'd managed to book a hotel in Saint-Lary-Soulan, we had an extra couple of km at the end of the day, but we finished soon after 4pm and were able to admire Chris Froome cementing his lead in the Tour de France by way of a successful time trial. 

It's a good hotel with very fluffy towels and a nice adjacent village with good pizzerias. 

So everyone is happy. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (9)

We've seen lots of this 'Red Helleborine' - Cephalanthera longifolia - a white variety! 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Tuesday 9 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 25 - Stage 19 - Barèges to Chalet-Hôtel d'Orédon

Distance: 21 km (Cum: 364 km)      

Ascent: 1380 metres (Cum: 19,920 metres)
                     
Time taken: 8.25 hrs including 1.5 hrs stops                                      

Weather: sunny, slowly clouding over, with spots of rain as we finished at 4.30, and a thunderstorm thereafter (but did we care? - not really, but we felt for the drowned rat contingent).

Another lovely sunny morning after a night interrupted at times by the roar of the torrent. 

Hervé and Patricia looked after us well at the gite, though it was sad that in this peak of the season (the French  school holidays have started) we were the only guests at a time when the place would normally be vibrant with an assortment of cyclists and walkers. 

We started at 8.15, up the Col du Tourmalet road that would usually be teeming with cyclists. The demolition of the hotel was continuing and its remains were being dumped in the large car park beyond Auberge Couquelle. Our slide show will in due course provide a further reminder of the devastation caused by exceptional weather in this area three weeks ago. 

We took the GR10 path past the deserted botanical gardens at Pont de la Gaubie. I recall visiting these on a trip to Gavarnie with the XXL (Aberdeen Hillwalking) Club a few years ago. Today the only visitors were marmots (and Sue). I also have a vivid memory of falling out of an inflatable canoe with Ian, near Luz.

Sue hopped over the fence into the gardens and spent some time with the exotic plants. This was to be a day when I would spend quite a while waiting. 

We had entered one of the most beautiful parts of the Pyrenees, the Néouvielle area, but as we made our way up to Col de Madamète we saw just two other people - a couple of exhausted looking backpackers. The terrain - we skirted a huge boulder field - reminded me of our HRP route nine years ago. 

The rivers were in spate. We could see the two ahead struggling up a boulder field after being unable to cross the torrent. So we tried to be clever and took a different route. That was fine, and we congratulated ourselves on regaining the path. ..

... which very soon re-crossed the river. There was no way we could get across, it was intense and fast flowing. 

The next hour or so was spent fumbling our way along the pathless river bank, over boulder fields and across gullies and side streams, most of the time in view of the good path across the torrent.  It has hardly rained for a week, but the massive amount of snow, a lot of it in the storm three weeks ago (but they also had some huge dumps earlier in the year) means that there is a vast amount of melt water in this hot weather. 

We eventually managed to cross the river and soon afterwards passed the exhausted pair and made our way through meadows laden with Butterwort to Cabane d'Aygues-Cluses. It was surrounded by horses and looked as if it had seen better days. 

From there it was a supposedly easy climb to Col de Madamète, at 2509 metres the highest point of this trip (probably). But it was very hot and we were tired from our earlier exertions. 

Lunch was taken in the shade of a lonely but very welcome pine tree, then we donned our gaiters to negotiate some easy but extensive snow fields either side of the col. Alpine Snowbells and an assortment of Primroses kept us company. 

The view from the top was as predicted - stunning, with snow streaked slopes sandwiched between high peaks and blue lakes.

As we made our way down to Lac d'Aumar we realised that the devastation of Barèges was behind us. There were lots of holiday makers about, and we passed hordes of folk on our final hurried descent to Chalet-Hôtel Orédon. This is a little off the GR10 route, but Chalet-Hôtel de l'Oule, which is on the route, is closed for renovations. 

A few navigation errors were made at this late stage of the day. We should have stayed next to Lac d'Aumar, and descended from there.  As it was we went down to the car park at Lac d'Aubert and then returned up the road to briefly rejoin GR10 at Lac d'Aumar before descending as suggested above. But having got to the car park, we had completely missed a path that would have taken us directly to our destination! 

Ah well. We made it down just in time to avoid the storm, so all was well. The Chalet-Hôtel turns out to be an excellent place. Very friendly, with a good number (27) staying tonight. That's too many to make new friends very easily. There's a group of six English here but they are self contained. Not a GR10er in sight. 

The meal was brilliant.  A huge bowl of meat and veg soup, followed by copious quantities of lasagne and salad, with cake and crême caramel for dessert. 

Today's picture looks back to the west, from the path above Pont de la Gaubie. Note the smart new trousers, the old Rohans having given up in Cauterets. 

Whilst I have a few minutes (and this won't transmit until tomorrow as there's no signal here), I'll relate the story of yesterday's twenty minute phone call.

Sitting in the Oasis gite, listening to the demolition of the hotel in which we had paid a deposit for a room, I decided to call the Snowcard Insurance number and ask for a claim form:

"Hello, the hotel I'm booked in to tonight is being demolished, could you send me a claim form, please."

Sharon: "How much have you lost?"

"My €28 deposit."

Sharon: "Oh dear, you have a £50 excess."

"Oh dear.  What about my sleeping bag that was destroyed by a drug crazed lunatic whilst in a B&B and would cost £280 to replace?"

Sharon:  "Pardon!" "What's that noise in the background?"

"I told you.  They are knocking the hotel down."

Sharon: "Tell me about the drug crazed lunatic incident, and why should a sleeping bag cost more than £50?"

I did.

Sharon: "I'm looking at the small print.  You aren't covered for fragile items."

"The sleeping bag wouldn't have broken if it had been dropped."

Sharon: "How old was it, we'll have to deduct a sum for wear and tear? And how much did it cost?"

"5-6 years, and no idea, the receipt is at home. All I wanted was to notify you and get a claim form."

Sharon: "There's no time limit on submitting claims. If anything else happens you may find it cheaper to call when you get home. After taking account wear and tear/depreciation and the £50 excess, would you be prepared to accept £160?  If so, what are your bank account details?"

"Yes - the details are..."

Sharon: "Ok (pause) yes, that seems to have gone through."

Conclusion:

All I wanted was a claim form, but I finished up with money in the bank - probably not much short of what I paid for the RAB 400 bag a few years ago.  I've lost out overall as I will want to replace the bag with something warmer than the one Graham is bringing for me. But I'm actually quite impressed by the way the matter was handled. Snowcard's annual cover, with a supplement for being away for more than sixty days, seemed to get me through all the hoops that Sharon tossed at me and the matter has been dealt with, with just twenty minutes of fuss. File closed.

Time now to read a book.  Oops, my Kindle seems to have broken! 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Flowers (8)

Spring Squill (Scilla verna), is usually found in spring, which this year seems to have extended well into July in the Pyrenees. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Monday 8 July 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 24 - Stage 18 - Luz-St-Sauveur to Barèges

Distance: 13 km (Cum: 343 km)      

Ascent: 870 metres (Cum: 18,540 metres)
                     
Time taken: 4.75 hrs including 1.0 hrs stops                                     

Weather: sunny and hot, with cloud developing in the afternoon

A delightful morning's walk to a village that is slowly recovering from a devastating flood.

After replenishing our provisions and perusing Luz's market stalls, we ambled off up a 600 metre ascent until we were high above the town. 

The path was a little dewy and overgrown in places, so dock leaves were in high demand. 

Leopardsbane and Black Vanilla Orchids made a welcome appearance beside the ongoing belvedere path to the Gué de Bolou, our high point at 1460 metres. 

This path was an absolute delight, with long flat sections both before and after the Gué, where the torrent was crossed without difficulty a little upstream. 

We expected to see scenes of devastation before reaching Barèges, and heavy machinery down in the valley could be seen.  But lovely woodland, with noisy Nutcrackers and Tree Creepers,  shielded us right until the point at which we entered the village. We'd met a couple of day walkers and a couple of runners - probably just residents getting a bit of respite from the disaster below. 

We soon found Gîte d'etape l'Oasis. It's pictured above on the right. To the left can be seen the crane that is demolishing the Hotel du Tourmalet,  where we were booked in for tonight.  We are now staying in the gite. We have been listening to the demolition all afternoon. It's very close by. A more explicit photo is shown below. We should have been occupying a luxury room. Painful to watch. 

It's nearly three weeks since the floods hit.  We wandered around the village and came across Rachel Williamson outside the B&B she runs with her husband Rob. They had already been evacuated once this year - in February, due to avalanche risk. But three weeks ago, after a period of hot weather that had melted lots of snow, a 24 hour rainstorm hit the area. Some snow bridges initially restricted the flow of the river, but they acted as dams. And they gave way.

Rachel and Rob's place - Les Sorbiers - just escaped the torrent.  They were on the right side of the street and it went within a few feet of their front door. 

They are now open for business, as is much of the village and indeed the whole area. But sadly some houses have been washed away, as has the campsite that has been here for many years. What will the owners do? Their land has simply gone.

A few kilometres of road have also disappeared into the river. That'll take a while to fix. Apparently you can now walk to Luz, so when Susan and Roy are there they could walk GR10 as we did today, and return by the valley paths.

Rachel gave the impression that insurers have shown little compassion and are treating the claims with their usual tactics. Their B&B was full when I tried to book a month ago, but cancellations mean they probably have no customers tonight. 

The Hotel du Tourmalet seems to be putting up quite a fight, though it will slowly be razed to the ground.  I imagine it was the insurers decision.  It looks immensely solid and perfectly capable of being rescued, though I am no engineer. 

We are the only people staying here tonight. The gang of 14 at Pierre-St-Martin has now fragmented, though we do hope to see some of the others again. We've been well looked after by our hosts at Oasis, with an excellent and very filling meal, featuring, cream of soup, duck with luxurious veg and bacon, sheep's cheese, and giant profiteroles.

Re last night's accommodation, an apologetic message has been received from Le Regain gite, blaming their closure on a new phone which didn't notify them that we'd left a message. I know the feeling - this phone has a similar problem - text messages get through better. 

We start to move away from the focus of the flood damage tomorrow, finishing in a remote spot where a phone signal is unlikely. So bear with us - we also have to contend with our highest pass yet, and its attendant snow. 

News from some of our GR10 friends:

Tour Aventure (Paul and John) have been holed up in a nice hotel with fluffy towels to console them from the fact that theirs is not a continuous walk due to access and high snow issues. 

Roland and Marie appear to have survived the shock of seeing a bear and are a day ahead of us.

Pierre and Yolaine headed up towards Vignemale from Cauterets, on a longer GR10 variant, so will fall behind for a while. 

There's no news from HRP contender, Simon Harper, but we imagine he will be in the vicinity of Luchon by now and going well. Good luck Simon. 

David and John will both now be at home enjoying their swimming pools.  David, anyway. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

Occasional Pyrenean Tractors (2)

We've been searching for the elusive Lamborghini, but all we could find was this. I'm sure Alan R will be able to identify it, seen yesterday in Grust. 

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary