Saturday, 18 June 2011
A Dales High Way - Day 8 - Newbiggin-on-Lune to Appleby-in-Westmorland
21km, 300 metres ascent, 5.7hrs incl stops.
Weather: rainy all morning, overcast afternoon with more rain later.
Gayle - good to hear from you. The Phreerunner effect (to the uninitiated this is my unswerving avoidance of bad weather) is not dead, it's just on holiday. Wait and see, and don't let the forecast inhibit your travails!
Phil - Hugh does indeed lead Coast to Coast walks, as on his present trip for Wilderness Travel, on which a party of North Americans is walking snippets of a C2C route on a 'day walk' basis.
Last night's meal at the Black Swan was very good - it's clearly a very successful operation down there. The 'Three Lads' turned up, with a fourth member of their party - 'slim Paul' - who has been curiously transparent until now.
The place was humming, but some mysteries remain... Who IS Fred, how does he manage to have such a woman on his arm, and why did the other two members of their party fail to show? We'll never know.
Today, to be brief, we finished the route to Appleby, mostly in the rain. It was a wet day in the Dales.
An easy start led through pleasant countryside past soggy sheep to a fine but very slippery limestone pavement on Great Kinmond. We slithered down past pretty orchids and primroses, and through a 'working farm' (very scruffy, in need of proper 'work') to Great Asby, where we paused in a bus shelter full of newspapers for the locals to collect. The 'Three Lads' (now a foursome) turned up and went to the pub. Two blokes on the Westmoreland Way joined us.
We decided to carry on to the pub at Hoff.
Andrew banged his head and had to sit on a wall (pictured) to recuperate. The path to Hoff was wet and muddy.
The pub at Hoff was closed, so we lunched on the car park. The New Inn is deceased, for the time being - there's a planning application.*
Not far now to Appleby, but the route was fraught with mud and frisky cows. We made it, and celebrated with cream teas in a friendly café - Taste of Eden.
The castle is shut - since 2004.
Now we are waiting for the train home.
I'll do an overview posting with links to proper photos in due course.
Hope you enjoyed this little journey.
Bye for now.
* October 2011 update: The pub at Hoff has re-opened according to Ethan.
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