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| Today's only picture - outside Rif Bélagua munching lunch in the rain |
Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 10 - Wednesday 4 August 2004 - Stage 9
Postcard Summary (on Day 8 card)
Windswept
col to La Pierre-St-Martin
Bad weather foils bid to reach Lescun – 8
hours, 22 km, 500m ascent
Diary Entry (by Sue)
Today saw poor weather, waterproofs all day, and some navigational difficulties. However this was countered by some high points. Rain woke us before 7, and hammered on the tent. Much as I was snug in the sleeping bag, we got up, managed to brew from the remaining gas, and ate bread and salami for breakfast.
For a ski resort in summer this isn’t too
bad. We are sitting in a basement in a
laundry waiting for all our clothes to be washed. (I’m wearing just my swimming trunks.) Yesterday (Wednesday) was tough as it
involved navigating difficult terrain all morning. We used the compass and the altimeter a
lot. Visibility was 10 metres. The 2½ hour route took over 4 hours, and the
much anticipated hot chocolate at Rif Bélagua didn’t happen as the refuge was
closed. After lunch under the eaves it
was 14 km on a road in mist +/- rain. A
better evening as we were in a refuge with other English speakers, wine and a
nice meal.
Today saw poor weather, waterproofs all day, and some navigational difficulties. However this was countered by some high points. Rain woke us before 7, and hammered on the tent. Much as I was snug in the sleeping bag, we got up, managed to brew from the remaining gas, and ate bread and salami for breakfast.
The visibility
was poor as we set out at 8.15 on the Spanish side of the col. We contoured
round the hill, on muddy paths and grassy hillsides, missing the ascending path
to the next col. Some while later, this meant turning around and retracing, locating
the rising path after an hour lost.
Navigation
continued to be difficult, as the path was described as needing 'improvisation',
as there were only faint traces. Poor visibility continued with intermittent
rain and the occasional strong wind. Finding the numbered border posts was
reassurance that we were where we thought we were (up to post number 255 on the ridge).
Finally, we dropped beneath the cloud for
a brief while. This section should have taken 2½ hours from the col to the
refuge - we finally arrived at the refuge after just over 4 hours at 12.20.
Throughout the morning, we had looked forward to hot chocolates at the refuge, but,
somewhat disappointingly, it was temporarily closed.
But, its eaves provided a dry spot for
more Tex-Mex tuna and chocolate for lunch, and a think about what to do next.
Lescun was the original aim for the day, but it was still a 7 hour walk away,
over terrain difficult to navigate in mist. So, a 3½ hour walk up the road was
decided upon, to reach the ski resort of La Pierre St-Martin.
The small view we'd had disappeared as
the road ascended back into cloud, and tarmac was trodden for ages. Limestone
country was entered - glimpses of white rock and pines either side of the road.
Also, signs that there were potholes, and a large cave on our left, with a
couple of choughs flying at its entrance. Again, rain was intermittent.
In total, we walked about 14 km on the
road. Just before the turning to the village, a campervan stopped. Amazingly,
it was the same couple that we'd seen at Col
We muddled through with the language
barrier! Buildings could be seen (which were hidden by mist before) when we
came out, and it was a short stroll to the buildings of the ski complex. There
are apartments here, whilst the hotels are shut, and we are directed to the
refuge.
La Pierre St-Martin is not an attractive
place, but it has a shop, tabac, restaurant, and coffee shops that are open.
The refuge is perched on a promontory at the top of the village and our welcome
was warm. From here, the bad day was left behind and we enjoyed the company of
Paul, from Hertfordshire, who was walking the GR10 having given up a career in banking
(he had walked the Pacific Crest Trail over six months in 2003), and Jonathan
and Lisa from Christchurch who were cycle touring, and had made their way from
Provence over the past 5 weeks.
After a Basque beer, we had a bottle of
red wine to accompany a good dinner - soup then d'aube of beef and spaghetti,
and cheese/chocolate pudding. This was cooked and served by Jean, a convivial
man who trots around in shorts despite today's weather. Although there are
bedrooms, we have a double bed on a landing above the dining room.
Despite the necessity to have a short
shower, it was very much needed and enjoyed. Waterproof (Sealskinz) socks and
gloves both performed well today - the boots were sodden. At last - now for a
rest day after 9 and a bit days walking!
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
22
km, 1000 metres ascent, 8 hours
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