Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 21 - Sunday 15 August 2004 - Classic
Ascent of Le Taillon, 3144 metres
Postcard Summary
A
walk from the campsite at Gavarnie
Classic ascent of Le Taillon (3144m) via
Cirque de Gavarnie, Échelle des Sarradets and Brèche de Roland, returning via
Plateau de Bellevue – 10.25 hours, 18 km, 1800m ascent
Today we took a single ‘day sac’ on this
classic ‘amble’. This involved an early
start – 7.30 – and quite a steep scramble early in the day. By midday we had reached the Brèche, arguably
one of the natural wonders of Europe . Then we went to Le Taillon, 3144 metres,
meaning we climbed up nearly 1800 metres from the campsite. ….And down again, with superb views of the
Cirque. The weather was absolutely
brilliant and this walk is a class act.
It was great to have a day without a big pack, and whilst Martin was
concentrating hard on the scrambling, Sue was leaping over the rocks, admiring
the edelweiss. From our summit lunch
perch we could see to Vignemale and well into Spain ,
including towards the Ordesa Canyon , the largest canyon in Europe . The day was made complete by a superb hot
shower (the first for three days) and a nice meal in view of the Cirque.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
After a quiet
night by the Frenchman who doesn't snore, we were into action early, and left
the site for the Cirque at 7.25 on another beautifully clear day. Soon Sue
spotted a tree creeper, and the path through the woods to the Cirque was lined
with agrimony, mullein, monkshood, etc, and paved with pony poo on which
colourful dung beetles were on display.
After The Hôtel du Cirque, which looked
completely shut pending arrival of the first day trippers, the path went up to
the distinctive groove known as Échelle des Sarradets.
We swapped the sac over for the second time
(200 metre - of ascent - stints with a 'day' sac) and I carried it up this
exposed 'natural staircase' whilst Sue ambled up, observing edelweiss and ramonda
on the way.
Near the top we
met a huge group of people clumsily descending. We were grateful to our early
start for avoiding them on the tricky section. All the time the sun was
gradually peeping over the Cirque, but we knew it wouldn't illuminate the
highest waterfall in Europe (423 metres) until
much later.
A welcome trail
mix and chocolate stop at the top of the scramble prepared us for the
delightful, solitary, walk up to Refuge de la Brèche, where we joined hordes of
people who had started from a nearby car park, for the snow and scree ascent up
to the Brèche de Roland - it must be one of the 'Natural Wonders of Europe'.
Once at the top
of this remarkable geological 'gap' we looked in awe at the towering rocks -
our cameras didn't have wide enough lenses - and continued westwards towards Le
Taillon. It was much cooler higher up, but t-shirts and shorts sufficed until
the 3144 metre summit was reached, whereupon an extra layer was used. Fantastic
views - one man had his map completely out, blowing in the wind, so that he
could identify some of the many landmarks in view.
The Ordesa Canyon
We found a
sheltered spot by an eccentric Frenchman (hood/mobile phone/sumptuous meal/full
kit) to enjoy the rest of a three day old baguette and our last tins of
sardines and tuna.
A pleasant half
hour with huge views all around on a wonderful day. Then easily down - met an
English family below the Brèche, and soon left the hordes, to descend slowly
and pleasantly to the Plateau de Bellevue (wonderful flowers, and views of the
Cirque) and on to Gavarnie by 5.40.
Carline Thistle
That's 10 hours
and 25 minutes for the leisurely circuit. Plenty of time to shower, change,
pass the time of day with English car campers and adjourn to Les Cascades for
an excellent meal accompanied by views of the Cirque and the sound of Tubular
Bells. Salads, turkey (S), rabbit (M), and the last two pieces of Gateau du
Myrtilles!
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
20
km, 2000 metres ascent, 10.25 hours
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