Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 20 - Saturday 14 August 2004 - Stage 17
Postcard Summary
Lake with long name at top ofLutour Valley to Gavarnie –
1 day early
Lake with long name at top of
Great views of Vignemale, some scrambling
– 10 hours, 20 km, 600m ascent
We have returned all too quickly to civilisation, in the form of thevillage
of Gavarnie
We have returned all too quickly to civilisation, in the form of the
Diary Entry (by Sue)
It was a cool,
but clear morning at our lake camp and as we packed up, two fishermen arrived!
Got off at 8.30 to continue climbing, and the sun was soon on us. A twisty
route, but well marked up via a series of clear lakes. In parts, quite scrambly,
including a short traverse of a narrow ledge.
A few sheep
seemed surprised to see us. The flowers were good, particularly near the col,
where Martin spotted our first spring gentians. Lots of thrift amongst the
rocks.
Apart from the
two fishermen, the first people we saw were at the Col
A brew and some
chocolate here was intended to generate some energy that both of us lacked this
morning, despite the brilliant weather. There were gentians.
On the descent,
the reflection of Vignemale in the Lac des Gentianes was worth a slight detour
off the steep, cairned route.
Collected water
from a spring by means of a tent peg as a funnel. Soon, our small path joined
the motorway path that leads up to the Bayssellance Refuge, the one used by the
Vignemale climbers, which is on the HRP, but which we'd bypassed due to our diversion
through Cauterets.
More descent, including
over a couple of patches of snow, and lots of people climbing up. By now, it
was beginning to warm up - despite the cloudless sky the air had been cool. By
the path, clumps of irises, banks of thistles, and carpets of moss campion.
Moss Campion
In the distance,
our first view of the Brèche de Roland, a notch in the horizon.
As I stop to
photograph the irises, Martin watches a marmot crossing a patch of snow, just
as we'd seen a sheep doing on our earlier ascent. Managed to find some shade
under a rock for lunch, next to the roaring river. Bread and fish.
English Iris
As we continued
down the valley, a yellow helicopter made two journeys up and down. Picked a
small handful of raspberries, as they were plentiful lower down - small but
very tasty.
The view towards Gavarnie
Decision time
came and it was to descend into Gavarnie on GR10
rather than climb on the HRP onto a potentially difficult ridge.
Looking back to Vignemale
So, down we
went, to find a pitch on the southern campsite in the village, next to a small
tent, which we correctly assume belongs to the Frenchman we met at Refuge Pombie.
Dinner on the
campsite - soup and garlic croutons, pasta with tuna and tomato and green
pepper sauce, supplemented tonight with a couple of chocolate mousses. Chatted
with an English couple camping adjacent, also with a Hilleberg tent. They had
tested theirs in Snowdonia at New Year, and it withstood wind well!
Walked down the
road a bit for a couple of beers before bed, part of the psyching up for a big
day tomorrow on the Cirque de Gavarnie and a classic ascent of Le Taillon. Bed
around 10 ish. Owls to be heard in trees near campsite.
20 km, 950 metres ascent, 10 hours
20 km, 950 metres ascent, 10 hours
* Martin climbed this in 1995 with Dave Scruby and Martin Whittle , perhaps also with Kate and Helen.
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