A Canadian Adventure - Day 21

Wednesday 23 August 2017

Paul Lake and Kamloops

First, to echo Conrad and Alan's comments on yesterday's entry, if you click on an image you should be able to see a bigger version and scroll through the day's other images, if you so desire. (I'm sure some readers do just that and ignore the text - that's fine.)

After posting yesterday's entry, in which I forgot to mention that there might be a five day hiatus in postings due to our plans to camp in a remote park, Jenessa arrived from the smoky north and Sue did some Internet research.

We had planned to camp for four nights in Wells Gray Provincial Park, but the extreme fire risk is such that whilst the campsite is open, most of the walking trails are closed. Moreover, the area is still blighted by lingering smoke from earlier fires, which apparently are now considered to be the worst in recorded Canadian history.

So we decided to stay for another night at Gary's comfortable hostel and explore a small local Provincial Park - Paul Lake. This turned out to be a good move. This area has also been affected by smoke and the locals we met told us today was the clearest day of the summer. We enjoyed a lovely walk through shady but not too dense woodland, up to a bluff, Gibraltar Rock, that overlooks the lake in both directions.

For lunch on a shady bench with a view from the bluff, we were joined by three very active and playful chipmunks. They reminded me of our trip to Killarney, north of Toronto, in 2002.

Then it was down through the trees to a lovely walk alongside the lake to its western end. We met a couple of ladies who gave us a valuable lesson on the use of the bear spray that we carry all the time. It's like we advise people who carry compasses:
"Carry bear spray at all times and know how to use it."
(Not that most people ever need it.)

A couple of Loons were fraternising on the lake, and an Osprey flew overhead. Once we'd got to the end of the lake and established that there were no refreshment points, we turned round and walked back, this time with good views of the bluff ahead of us.

Earlier we'd been to Pinantan Lake, where a lady in the General Store sorted us out with three coffees for $4 from a fancy new machine; the quantity being dispensed was less than she thought appropriate so she shared a third cup to fill both our cups, and she gave us advice on the Paul Lake hiking trail. Four cyclists on a 90 km outing from Kamloops were also very helpful with suggestions as to how to get round our Wells Gray predicament.

On return to the beach, Sue went for a swim. Then we returned to Kamloops. A Canadian Pacific train entertained us for a while, especially since the drivers appeared to be standing on a balcony in front of the train, just chatting! A taster of the 'Heritage Tour' took us past a couple of cathedrals and various other 'old by Canadian standards' buildings. The Catholic cathedral looked more like a very ordinary church. It was built in 1921 and has some lovely stained glass windows that were made in Canterbury. We can't comment on the interior of the Anglican cathedral as it was all locked up.

Dinner in an Irish pub (Kelly O'Bryans) staffed by Canadians wearing kilts, with a baseball game (thankfully on 'silent' but nevertheless interesting given our new found understanding of the game) on TVs in the background was a little bizarre, but the food and beer were good. Sue's portion was gigantic. 

We adjourned to the Riverside Park, where a free 'Music in the Park' concert is put on every night in July and August at the Rotary Bandshell. We took our place on our camping chairs (thanks Shak) together with around three hundred others - a number that impressed Gary when we told him later. Tonight's show was performed by the classic rock band - Dodie Goldney's Instamatics. With rhythm and bass guitars, a drummer and Dodie's vocals, it reminded me of live bands I saw in the '60s. Some of their repertoire was indeed from the '60s and when Dodie wasn't singing I could picture myself back in the presence of Eric, Jack (RIP) and Ginger.

The concert ended at 8.30 (no chance of the aforementioned trio even making an appearance by that time). Thompson River had a silver sheen under the vestiges of the sunset as we strolled back to the car past an active bowling green and returned to the comfort of Gary's hostel. 

Today's pictures:

• The beach at Paul Lake

• A view to the beach from Gibraltar Rock

• The view west from Gibraltar Rock

• A lunchtime 'chippie'

• Looking towards the Gibraltar Rock bluff from the walk back to the beach

• In the trees above Paul Lake 

• Canadian Pacific at Kamloops

• Sacred Heart Cathedral (1921)

• St Paul's Cathedral (1888/1924)

• Graffiti in Kamloops 

• Sue's giant meal

• Music in the Park

• The silver Thompson River, with Overlander Bridge

(Lots of pictures as Gary's broadband is excellent. We decided not to connect to the nearby open WiFi named 'FBI Surveillance Unit.)
 
9.5 km hike with about 250 metres ascent, plus about 3 km around Kamloops. 

Also of note today was a message from Simon with a lovely picture of my grandchildren with their great grandma Dot. Thanks for that Simon.