Wells Gray Provincial Park
Friday
Sun Peaks was a good place to visit. The panoramic views from the local summits extended to the glaciers of the Coastal Range in one direction and those of the Rockies in another direction. Even on an overcast day these were remarkable.
We left our comfortable room and headed back down to Highway 5, another road that's a bit like the A9, for the scenic drive beside the North Thompson River to Clearwater. After passing wide areas that had previously been affected by fire - there were many scorched tree trunks standing like blackened matchsticks in an area of regeneration - we paused for coffee and cake in Little Fort before moving on to the information centre at Clearwater, the gateway to Wells Gray.
After some advice we chose to head into the park for two nights. So we blithely set off up the road and stopped after 10 km at the Spahats Falls, formerly Bear Falls but renamed in First Nation language. (Top picture) Normally there would be good, if short, walking routes here, but even those less than 1 km in length were closed due to the fire risk. (See second picture) The falls are about 70 metres high.
A little further on we lunched on what has become our regular fare of goats cheese and tomato rolls with crisps and salad. There were good views into the park beyond the Clearwater River in front of us. (Third picture)
We continued up to the official park entrance, 38 km from Clearwater, with another 30 km on a dirt road to go to the road head campsite. This is when we noticed the 'lack of fuel' gauge. The range of the Camry, 700 km, is rather less than we are used to. An hour and a half was spent returning to Clearwater, but hey - we now have no fuel worries.
The Clearwater Lake campsite was full, but we found a space at the Falls Creek site next door. (Fourth picture) A good spot so long as you have a free standing tent that pitches on a solid surface.
We could have eaten in a nearby 'nature room' but we sprayed ourselves and swatted a few mossies whilst noshing at our picnic table.
4 km sundry ambling, 300 km driving.
The first four pictures were taken today.
Saturday
A lie in, breakfast and butty making, after discarding some items found by mice in the boot of the car. They had a feast and made some bedding. We aren't allowed to have food in the tent because bears may smell it, so it's secreted in the car, which clearly has a way in for small rodents.
By 10am we had hired a Canadian canoe for the day and had set off up Clearwater Lake, a huge stretch of water bordered by high mountains. Unlike many in the Alps, this lake is full! In lovely sunny weather we enjoyed a 14 km circuit, stopping at Caribou Beach for elevenses and Divers Bluff for lunch, before crossing the lake in choppy water and heading back to the canoe launch site. There were a few people out, but plenty of room for everyone.
I find this type of canoe so much easier and more comfortable than a kayak. You can change position and move around, as opposed to being trapped in a rigid position with with a wet bottom. You stay dry in a Canadian canoe.
There was a shoal of giant fish by the launch point, and we saw Loons and other water birds as well as the usual squirrels and chipmunks.
A beer (tea for Sue) at the Osprey Café went down wonderfully, before we strolled less than 1 km up to Sitka Falls (not pictured due to slow wifi). The 5th and 6th pictures were taken canoeing.
A lie in, breakfast and butty making, after discarding some items found by mice in the boot of the car. They had a feast and made some bedding. We aren't allowed to have food in the tent because bears may smell it, so it's secreted in the car, which clearly has a way in for small rodents.
By 10am we had hired a Canadian canoe for the day and had set off up Clearwater Lake, a huge stretch of water bordered by high mountains. Unlike many in the Alps, this lake is full! In lovely sunny weather we enjoyed a 14 km circuit, stopping at Caribou Beach for elevenses and Divers Bluff for lunch, before crossing the lake in choppy water and heading back to the canoe launch site. There were a few people out, but plenty of room for everyone.
I find this type of canoe so much easier and more comfortable than a kayak. You can change position and move around, as opposed to being trapped in a rigid position with with a wet bottom. You stay dry in a Canadian canoe.
There was a shoal of giant fish by the launch point, and we saw Loons and other water birds as well as the usual squirrels and chipmunks.
A beer (tea for Sue) at the Osprey Café went down wonderfully, before we strolled less than 1 km up to Sitka Falls (not pictured due to slow wifi). The 5th and 6th pictures were taken canoeing.
The mosquitoes gave us a break so that we could enjoy supper at our picnic bench - avocado and egg salad, pasta with tuna, mushrooms and tomato sauce, followed by strawberries and cream.
Then it was back to 'The Colour Purple' for me, having finished 'The Handmaid's Tale. Sue is reading 'Dark Matter'. I expect she would have screamed if she'd heard the mice in the car.
As yesterday, today was another most satisfying one, despite its not being part of the original plan.
14 km paddling, 4 km of bimbles, plus 4 km by the Clearwater River in 25.20.
Sunday
We spent the morning slowly making our way 70 km back to Clearwater. The first 30 km on dirt roads, but not of the diabolical type found near Whistler.
Five stops were made as we travelled south down the access corridor that is all that is open in the park apart from the lake and some Very Short trails to viewpoints.
Norman's Eddy (pictured fourth from bottom) wasn't that spectacular but did at least provide us with a generous round trip of 1.5 km woodland walking without encountering any No Entry signs. There was a memorial to Harold Turner (1944-2003).
Our next stop was Shadow Lake, where from across the lake a high mountain, possibly Garnet Peak, stood serenely reflected on the lake. A nice view but too contrasty for a worthwhile photo.
Bailey's Chute was our next stop. There would normally be a short walking circuit by West Lake and Mynach Falls, but as they were out of bounds we watched the torrent, pictured third from bottom, for a while. This is where 22 kg Chinook salmon can be seen jumping the eight metre plunge at this time of year. The falls were named after an engineer who worked in Wells Gray until he drowned in a boating accident just downstream from here.
A helpful information board reminded us of the names of some of the plants we've been seeing here and further south, as well as the Skunk Cabbage alongside this path:
Five stops were made as we travelled south down the access corridor that is all that is open in the park apart from the lake and some Very Short trails to viewpoints.
Norman's Eddy (pictured fourth from bottom) wasn't that spectacular but did at least provide us with a generous round trip of 1.5 km woodland walking without encountering any No Entry signs. There was a memorial to Harold Turner (1944-2003).
Our next stop was Shadow Lake, where from across the lake a high mountain, possibly Garnet Peak, stood serenely reflected on the lake. A nice view but too contrasty for a worthwhile photo.
Bailey's Chute was our next stop. There would normally be a short walking circuit by West Lake and Mynach Falls, but as they were out of bounds we watched the torrent, pictured third from bottom, for a while. This is where 22 kg Chinook salmon can be seen jumping the eight metre plunge at this time of year. The falls were named after an engineer who worked in Wells Gray until he drowned in a boating accident just downstream from here.
A helpful information board reminded us of the names of some of the plants we've been seeing here and further south, as well as the Skunk Cabbage alongside this path:
Bunchberry
Indian Paintbrush
Indian Hellebore (which I may have erroneously referred to as Great Yellow Gentian)
Twisted Stalk
Alpine Lupine
Foam Flower
Twin Flower
There was also a lot of Eyebright beside the path.
Our fourth stop was for the purpose of admiring Helmcken Falls (penultimate picture), at 141 metres the fourth highest waterfall in Canada. Very impressive. Like a giant tree lined Malham Cove with lots of water. There were many information boards describing the geological features. This is the highest of 39 named waterfalls in the park, with numerous more unnamed ones.
Dawson Falls was our final stop before heading into Clearwater for a picnic lunch outside the information centre whilst the tent dried in the bright sunshine. There was a lot of condensation last night. Dawson Falls (bottom picture) are modest in height but grand in extent. They are on a tributary of the Clearwater River, so the salmon don't have to jump these falls before reaching the barrier of Bailey's Chute!
Those visits together with our movements over the last two days gave us about as comprehensive a tour of Wells Gray as is possible under the current 'No Hiking' restrictions. The viewpoint of note that we missed was Green Mountain - where we could have gazed down on some of the lakes and forest, and across to distant mountains. Never mind. If we'd been here a week ago we would have had smoke and haze to contend with.
I am writing this as we travel north to Mount Robson, as we enter the Rockies for most of the remainder of our trip. This posting will be sent when we get there, and the next posting will cover the Mount Robson phase of the trip.
5 km of bimbles in Wells Gray Provincial Park, and about 300 km in the car. (And a 20 minute run for Sue.)
1 comment:
Splendid few days. Nice adventure.
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