Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Sunday 17 January 2021

The Walker's Haute Route (10)


Early morning at the Col de la Forclaz (click on the image for a slideshow)

Thursday 31 August - Col de la Forclaz to Champex

A cloudless start, and it remained that way all day. Bleary-eyed for breakfast at 8 am, the dortoir occupants - Gaynor, Hilde and Dave, complained of lack of sleep due to overeating last night!

A view down the Rhone Valley

It was too nice not to go over the Col de Fenetre d'Arpette, so Dave and I did that, but the other four were 'tired' so they went by the Bovine route to Champex. 

After a half hour wait I set off with just Dave at 9:15 for the three hour ascent to the col at 2665 metres (from 1526 metres). Very pleasant and not too hot, with frost lingering in shady spots until mid morning.

Setting off with Dave

The Col de la Forclaz

Wonderfully clear views, and lots of photos to make up for the slides destroyed by Jessops following our Tour of Mont Blanc (TMB) trip in 2000. 

Dark blue monkshood glimmered as the sun got higher.

The path beside the bisse

9:50 - at the top of the bisse - groccles and English people with dogs.

The Trient Glacier


By 10 am it was time for shorts and suntan cream. Reached the col by 12:15 after chatting to the Americans (seen yesterday) who live in a mountain town near Boulder. They are quietly spoken and have chosen a quieter life with quite a big commute. 

On the Fenetre d'Arpette

We also pass a number of Brits - members of the 'Over the Hill' club (OTH), some of whom have reached the busy col before us. Fresh snow is lying in the shade above 2400 metres - it disappears over the next few days.


We spend a good 45 minutes in a lovely position here - before heading steeply down towards Champex (13:00 to 16:10) via Relais d'Arpette (15:10 to 15:35) where a cafe au lait in bright sun went down perfectly.

Descending from Fenetre d'Arpette

Purple Gentian


Approaching the Relais d'Arpette

Tame chamois frolicked / slept in a compound here. 

Very hot and sunny for the final lap into Champex, where we arrived before the girls, whose walk was supposed to be two hours shorter than ours. We eventually bumped into them and ended up at Plein Air dortoir, where Sue and I stayed in 2000. Gaynor and Hilde went elsewhere. 

Everyone disappeared for a couple of hours whilst I chatted to the Over the Hill Club people, who have a mascot, Meringue the Orang-utan. He has a website - meringueontour.com. (Now defunct.) 

Boats at Champex

"I presume you are Mr Miller" said someone connected to a Ramblers TMB trip that was here overnight, mistaking me for their leader. Quite a different group to those where everyone knows each other, like ours and the OTHs. 

Nice meal - salad, pork with mushrooms and carrots and rice, then ice cream. That, after David E (Sue's husband) has arrived, without his rucksack, which is still on its way from Geneva. (It still is, 24 hours later.) 

I enjoy a walk into the village, mountains silhouetted attractively against the dark sky, with lights of aircraft pottering across it. Then to bed by 10 - can't face any more beer. (Dave Skipp and 'Waggy' were setting a fine pace.)


2 comments:

bowlandclimber said...

A strange write-up to an increasingly strange Haute Route.

"I am sharing with Colin, who isn't asleep when I eventually arrive at 11:30 pm after being plied with scotch and wine by the OTHs.

[These diary entries are rubbish! I'll keep going though; some of the pictures are nice...- Ed]"

I wondered if you had been plied with Scotch and wine, just realised you had been. Have to agree about the pictures though.

Phreerunner said...

Yes BC, this could be quite confusing. I was leading a group who I know through a University contemporary who went to South Africa, returning in the 1990s. Sue and I then met various ex Johannesburg Hiking Club members and walked the SWCP with them. In 2005/6 they planned the Haute Route in two trips and I agreed to navigate for them as they easily get lost. So I knew them all pretty well apart from Caroline. The OTH Club is a walking group open to TGO Challengers and their friends. This was my first encounter with them, but I went on to take part in the Challenge many times, during which I joined the OTH Club for a while and got to know some of those on this HR trip.