Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Friday, 6 February 2009

Thursday 5 February 2009 – Our Last Day in Gatineau Park

Until now we have been skiing in the central and northern sections of the Park. That is because they have convenient cabins at which to enjoy a break and some tea or lunch. The southern section of the Park, whilst only a ten minute drive from home, is bereft of cabins. However, it does hold some excellent trails, so today we felt we couldn’t leave without visiting some of them.
From the southern edge of the Park, P3 at Gamelin, we took Gatineau Parkway for 10 minutes before turning onto the excellent trail 5. It was sunny again, but very cold – similar to yesterday.

As was the scenery….

Trail 5 heads off to the north near Pink Lake, so we took trail 15 to P6 at MacKenzie King (across the road from another of our start points, Kingsmere). Trail 7 from here was an excellent ski, leading eventually back to Gatineau Parkway for a gentle potter back to P3, to conclude this year’s visit to Gatineau Park.

On the way we passed the Lookout above Pink Lake. The lake is named after the family who settled here in the 1830s. It turned green in the 1960s and has been found to have no oxygen below a depth of 13 metres. It was thought to be polluted, possibly due to a mica mine from the early 1900s, but it has recently been established that erosion is the problem. Remedial measures are being taken.

Pink Lake is white in winter.

Here's one of two huge grooming machines that were lunching on the Parkway.

As we approached Gamelin, we gained a clear impression of how close this ski area is to the centre of Canada’s capital city.

Having carried a flask of tea all around this 22km route (10.00 to 13.20 including 15 minutes of breaks), we finally got to enjoy it from the warmth of the car before travelling the 10 minutes home for bagels with cream cheese and smoked salmon.

Thursday, 5 February 2009

Wednesday 4 February 2009 – Around Lac Philippe

My first day of retirement was celebrated together with Sue on a neat little circuit of Lac Philippe – P17 (Wakefield) then along trails 52, 50 and 53, stopping at Renaud Cabin for lunch.

Unfortunately Sue wiped out quite badly near the #50 junction. I lounged on a bench whilst she adopted a ‘recovery pose’. She was later coaxed back to life with a hot bath and some ice; now how is that supposed to work?

Renaud Cabin sits in delightfully open surroundings.

We were the only visitors today, which meant that toasting our sandwiches was something of a long job.

I photographed our 'typical lunch' whilst we waited.

Today's tracks were easy but fast, with very few people out (we saw seven all day) as it was cold (-14°C + wind chill taking it to about -30°C), but hands stayed reasonably warm, especially on the delightful final section, with some open countryside, along #53.

Back home by 3pm, we later enjoyed a lovely sunset from the second floor balcony:

Then we all enjoyed an excellent meal at ‘Chez Woodroffe’ - champagne, fine wine and BBQ'd (Ken seems to like barbecuing in frigid weather) pork tenderloin with lavish accompaniments, and thank you, Kate, for your ‘phone call, and for all the contact from other well-wishers.

We enjoyed 24km today, taking from 10.15 to 14.15, including 1 hour of breaks.

Wednesday, 4 February 2009

A Life of Riley: The End

It's over!

My Life of Riley is at an end.

After a year with no income the time has come to end the pain that others have endured in funding my obsessions.

I have an income again! Not much, but enough to just about get by.

My thanks go to all (especially Sue) who have contributed to make my 'Riley Period' so enjoyable.

And even though that period has ended, it seems I don't need to go to work, and I get some free medicine and travel and other concessions. So my expenses are down and I have (or hope I will have, anyway) some funds.

Cheers, the next pint's on me!

[You'll have to remind me of that, 'cause I'm a bit deaf y'know.]

Tuesday 3 February 2009 – Fun in the Sun

Sue and I enjoyed a sunny ski from Kingsmere, quickly reaching Shilly Shally cabin, pictured below.

From here, back-country trail number 12 undulated its way for a kilometre across to trail 3. It took all of 30 minutes. (We average a good 7kph on the normal tracks.) Sue enjoyed it. She is more expert than me. Here she is on the narrow trail.

I kept falling over. I don’t think I’ll be doing any more back-country trails without some tuition! See me struggling up this minor hill. It’s harder than it looks. I certainly seem to make it harder than it should be!

It was a lovely day, however, and once on trail 3 I could enjoy the scenery, the snow glistening between the trees, and the views from Ridge Road, which we joined near Huron Cabin and headed along towards Western, before taking #1B to the Lookout. I’m happier now, despite the ice at this point.

We descended to Keogan Cabin for lunch. It was full when we arrived. Empty when we left. Perhaps Sue’s merino top that she has been testing needs a rinse!

With no fresh snow for a few days the trails have quickened, though they can hardly be said to be icy. This was however enough to make me walk down the steep section of #1 just before we turned onto #30. Whilst previously on this trip the corner (shown in a video a few days ago) has been quite easy, discretion was the better part of valour for me, here, today.

We swished and stumbled (me only) along for another 21km today, taking from 10.35 to 14.10, including 45 minutes of breaks.

Gear Requirements - Cross Country Skiing

Sue poses above, at the Champlain Lookout, in all the gear needed for an amiable cross country ski. Her technical kit comprises skis, bindings, shoes and poles. That's all you need, and they can be purchased for around £200, so it's not an expensive sport. There's a fee of about £8 a day, or £65 for the season, to ski on the Gatineau Park trails.

Here's a site that provides lots of information and links. I'm sure summitboy can provide many more helpful links. (Hint!)

My own gear, apart from the technical stuff, is shown in a somewhat less flattering pose, below.

Moving clockwise from the easily identifiable notepad and pen, we have:

  • Lowe Alpine liner gloves
  • Neck warmer (could use a scarf)
  • Long blue socks (alternatively wear short socks and PacLite trousers on a cold day, otherwise short socks are adequate)
  • Rohan briefs
  • M&S long johns
  • Lowe Alpine Mountain Cap (thanks, Phil)
  • Handkerchief
  • MEC long pants (outer layer)
  • Canon G10 camera in CCS case
  • MEC bum bag, for lunch, flask, first aid kit, whistle, etc
  • Long-sleeved silk vest
  • Map of ski trails
  • Long-sleeved technical t-shirt
  • RAB Vapour Rise smock (ideal piece of kit)
  • Regatta gloves (red)
  • Ziplock bag containing ski waxing kit
  • Meat thermometer (it also measures air temperature!)

Hiding somewhere is a Suunto Altimax watch.

On really cold days the bum bag has been replaced by a small day rucksack, as we've felt it wise to carry down jackets in case of an accident, and whilst in previous years the bum bag has been used exclusively, the rucksack has been employed more frequently this year, even on warmer days - there's been no real need to transfer between the equally comfortable containers.

Lunch is a fairly standard package, comprising a flask of tea (for two), a cheese and ham sandwich buttered on the outside and wrapped in foil so that it can be toasted on a cabin stove, an orange or banana, christmas cake and cheddar (or similar) and a portion of home-made GORP. I must remember to photograph that lot!

There's no rain to worry about, and most people just use a bum bag, even for long days out, unless they are training for the ski marathon. Despite the sub zero weather, we probably carry somewhat less than we would on a day walk in the UK at this time of year.

Tuesday, 3 February 2009

Sunday 1 February 2009 – A Black Diamond Day

First, a return to yesterday.

As we ascended Fortune Parkway to the #3 turn it was clear that the day would produce some good images, hence the ‘Christmas Card’ alliteration. The trees were laden with recent snowfall and with hoar frost, under a clear blue sky. It was beautiful, as can be seen from the image above.

Trail 3, the Burma Road was in fine condition. The trail joins the Parkway after a long hill, the site of my favourite piece of video yet!



It was Saturday, so we did of course meet someone Ken and Helen knew; today it was Sarah and Jim, the former also training for the Canadian Ski Marathon Coureur des Bois Gold award and sporting a fully laden GoLite Pursuit rucksack. Very smart in comparison with the Berghaus Cyclops that Ken insists on carrying everywhere, but the old Berghaus sac may be both bigger and lighter than GoLite’s current model.

A skating party on the Rideau Canal followed. The canal is in effect the biggest skating rink in the world, and attracts many people to Ottawa, as well as appealing to the locals. It’s probably a better known winter attraction than the 200 km of cross-country ski trails in Gatineau Park.

As my daughter will testify, I’m not so hot at skating, so whilst the others glided down the rutted ice of the canal from Fifth Avenue to the new Somerset Street footbridge, I stayed firmly on dry land and covered the same route, in the same time, by strolling along the footpath beside the canal. It was dark, and I would not have stayed upright on the rutted ice of the canal.

Here’s a daytime view of the canal, from an earlier visit.

The event was a Canoe Club party, hosted annually by Catherine, who lives very close to the canal.

After enjoying beavertails, the traditional fayre of the Rideau Canal – deep fried wholemeal dough coated in sugar and cinnamon, a sort of flat doughnut - about 30 of us adjourned to her spacious house for a most amenable evening. Sadly one person had failed to negotiate the ice and turned up heavily bandaged. Apparently that is an annual feature of this gathering! I was glad to have kept to the pavement.

Anyway, tales were swapped, new friends were made, and lots of good food was tasted – everyone brings their own contribution. We succeeded in identifying the mystery ingredient in Jane’s chicken chilli (chocolate), for which the prize was – you guessed it - before being whisked back to Woodroffe Towers for the Sleep of the Just.

Sunday dawned cloudy, and after yesterday’s glorious sunshine we used our cameras less today. We did venture on new trails (for this trip), though – starting from Wakefield (P17) we headed up #52 towards Herridge Cabin. Hordes of folk were coming the other way, laden with rucksacks, sledges and small children. Someone must have been partying in Brown Cabin last night.

Trail 52 is quite a pull, so we warmed up well as we ascended nearly 200 metres before gliding down to trail 30. Had Helen been with us we would have turned left for lunch at Herridge and returned by the same route – a fine 20km ski. She wasn’t with us, so in the absence of her wisdom we headed right to Lac Philippe and along the black diamond trail 54. It’s about 4km to Lusk Cabin from here.

The trail was ideal.

For snowshoeing.

A snowshoer soon passed us. More followed. Deep snow, a narrow path, and some steep ascents all hampered our progress.

We had to take off our skis for certain sections. It was a relatively warm day – at around -4°C it was 'very sweaty' – but in these conditions the ski bindings easily ice up when the skis are removed. So they wouldn’t go back on, even when the trail levelled.

We reached the edge of Lac Lusk. The snowshoers were a distant memory.

“Let’s go across the lake” said Ken, after repairing all the skis with a Swiss Army knife gadget for removing stones from horses’ hooves, “it’s a short cut to the Cabin”. I think he was trying to boost his ascent/descent statistics, as his little computery gadget would not recognise our ability to walk on water, but would home in on a spot height (depth?) at the bottom of the lake!

Whilst skiing across frozen lakes is sometimes a good idea, and can be quick, I thought ‘that snow looks deep’, and lagged behind. Sue and Ken dashed keenly on….for about 100 metres. It was very hard going, what with a good 18 inches of fresh snow to pack down with each stride.

Snowshoes 2 Skis 0

Those who view our tracks across the lake, which will remain there for some time, may ponder The Legend of the Lost Skier of Lusk Lake, though when we finally made it to Lusk Cabin we found a new visitors book, so our rendering of this fine tale on a previous visit is now only to be seen in the Visitors Centre in Chelsea.

So, after turning around and enjoying the pleasant final section of black diamond trail 54, we reached Lusk Cabin 1 hour 35 minutes after setting off on that 4km trail. Then we discovered the fire had only just been lit, so it took another 30 minutes to toast our sandwiches. We took a few photos to pass the time.

A sociable hour was spent in the cabin – the inevitable acquaintance of Ken turned up - before returning by the easiest possible route to Wakefield, via Lac Philippe and trails 50, 51 and 53, getting back to base just in time to ponce ourselves up for Helen’s superb Sunday dinner, in the presence of Royalty (her mum) and the sad absence of the other three quarters of an Australian lamb.

Today’s energetic 26km took from 10.30 to 15.30, including an hour for lunch at Lusk Cabin.

Sue, bringing up the rear for a change, was (for one) delighted to get back to Wakefield...

We’re having a rest tomorrow (actually it’s tomorrow today and we’ve already had it) so you will be spared even more of my verbosity for a while.

Sunday, 1 February 2009

Saturday 31 January 2009 – Christmas Card Conditions on the Burma Road

The sun shone today for all four of us to enjoy the Burma Road, from P10 and Fortune Parkway, then via Champlain Lookout, from where the above panorama was bathed in sun today – despite it being -18°C plus a very chilly wind just there, to Huron Cabin for lunch, before returning back down the Burma Road.

17km, from 10.15 to 13.35, including 45 minutes for lunch.

Back home for a pot of tea and a convivial afternoon before heading off to the Rideau Canal for a skating session, followed by a canoe club party.

It’s all go, hence the brevity of this entry! There will be more. We have some nice images from today. Unfortunately the shot above just proves that 'blogger' is not a good medium for displaying panorama shots (not in this layout, anyway), so I may produce a link to a regular web page when we get home, to display a few panoramas - though we do have very few on this trip.

But I do now have time to welcome Sophie to my small band of followers. Sophie is bravely planning on taking her unsuspecting 'trusty hound' for a long walk….

Saturday, 31 January 2009

Friday 30 January 2009 – O’Brien to Herridge

Today we enjoyed a gentle ski in light snow along the excellent trail 36, from P11 (O’Brien) to Herridge Cabin and back. The lack of sun was compensated for by the fine snow conditions, despite some steepish hills. These can be dangerous when icy, but today it was almost impossible to fall, any movement towards a ‘snowplough’ action succeeding in bringing one gently to a halt.

Before going skiing, a waxing session is needed. Woodroffe Mansion has a basement under the whole footprint of the house – so plenty of room for this sort of thing:

The trails around Lac Meech were very pleasant.

Herridge Cabin is an excellent spot….

...and attracts a wide variety of birds – today a flock of Pine Grosbeak arrived to join the Nuthatches, Chickadees, Blue Jays, Downy Woodpeckers and Hairy Woodpeckers around the table.

Here, Mr and Mrs P Grosbeak peck away as Mme Chickadee comes in to land.

This place has the reputation for being the best in Gatineau Park for wildlife. For those who receive actual real Christmas cards from us, it’s the site of the photo of the Barred Owl, taken on 1 February 2006.

It was a shame to leave this lovely route – here I am on the trail near a boathouse….

and we were sad to be back at the car after just 20 km (but with my blistered feet intact), taking from 10.00 to 13.35, including a 45 minute ‘lunch’ stop at Herridge (from 11.20!).

Our snowy journey home was punctuated by coffee at Tim Horton’s, fuel for lots of shovelling of snow once we got back.

Sue tried to photograph some snow landing on her camera case today:

Here’s a detail from the above image:


[The light was very flat today – it was snowing – so the images reflect that fact – especially that of the Pine Grosbeak, which sadly fails to highlight the splendid rosy colouring of the male.]

Friday, 30 January 2009

Thursday 29 January 2009 – In The Groove

A routine day
– up at 7
– take Helen to work
– back home for breakfast
– wax skis etc whilst Sue prepares lunch
– leave by 9.30 for Gatineau Park
– ski for 5 hours from 10 to 3 (including an hour’s worth of breaks)
– back to Woodroffe Towers
– drop off Sue to start tea
– collect Helen
– enjoy a leisurely pot of tea and a bath
– help with cooking
– Ken arrives home from his hard day at work
– lovely meal as usual
– go shopping (food, blister repair kit)
– download the day’s photos
– gather round to chuckle at more crap videos (delete them)
– Rummikub
– Sue wins again
– vet Ken’s CSM (Canadian Ski Marathon) spreadsheet (timetable for success)
– everyone else hits the sac
– I try to find time to record a few words and images here…..

A busy day!

We parked up at Chelsea (P8) and headed up Gatineau Parkway, knowing that it would have been groomed after the snow storm. We were soon tempted by the greater interest of Ridge Road, so turned up trail 1. Penguin Hill rises 150 metres in quick time. Quite hard work on our skis. Just beyond Keogan Cabin, still on #1, we found the benches at Gossips’ Corner free of snow. We gossiped.

Looking back from the start of the Khyber Pass, a couple of folk were coming up fast in our mirrors.

A welcome tea break at Huron Cabin gave Sue a chance to photograph lots of squirrels and this Blue Jay on the feeder.

Continuing along #1 we took the #24 loop. It had just been groomed and included a fabulous downhill section in perfect conditions. Rejoining Ridge Road from #24 we discovered this was the limit of the groomed trails, so the ski along Ridge Road to McKinstry and the Fire Tower would have a ‘back country’ feel today.

Around here the trees were very delicately frosted, as on this twig.

Turning back along #1, we headed to Western Cabin for lunch. The fire was roaring and toasted our sandwiches almost instantly. (Note the foil on top of the stove – it contains a sandwich with bread buttered on the outside to facilitate ‘toasting’.)

Heading steeply out of Western on back country trail 9 we found it hard work, climbing sideways up the steep, narrow track. Sue arrived unimpressed at trail 1B.

Luckily the Burma Road (#3) had been groomed and was in fine condition. But whilst Sue and I both had the same wax on our skis, hers had lost traction. Re-waxing with the dark blue wax made little difference. It had warmed to only around -5°C. We will take some stickier (violet) wax tomorrow.

Down on Fortune Parkway the sun came out and we enjoyed a fine view of Lac Fortune.

We were soon down the hill and back on Gatineau Parkway for the final (boring) run back to Chelsea. Here Sue flies past me in the fast lane.

Today’s was our longest ski yet on this trip, the 29km outing took us from 9.50 to 14.45, including 55 minutes of tea and lunch breaks.

Another fine day in the groove.

Thursday, 29 January 2009

Wednesday 28 January 2009 – Snow

We’ve had around 15cm of snow so far today, with another 10cm due tonight. I was very careful driving Helen to and from work, until she announced ‘If we crash the Honda we could get Frank’s dad’s Camry for a good price’. So I went through a few ‘Stop’ signs, and tried driving on the left side of the road, but to no avail – the old Honda lives for another day and is parked in the comfort of the garage.

(Shame about the bike I ran over in the garage whilst parking up!)

Skiing in Gatineau Park was not the most sensible option today, so Sue and I strolled around the environs of Chateau Woodroffe. Here Sue ambles through the snow whilst I admire the peaceful wintry scene.

We crossed above the deserted Parkway, having to wait ages for any cars to appear on this normally busy road.

Sue eschewed a rest on this bench – despite the balmy -10°C temperature; the snow was coming down like rain, in very small flakes, with quite a breeze, so it was a bit like a mild dose of spindrift on a Scottish hill in winter.

This pair of mallards was trying valiantly to eat snow. Their beaks were caked with it, and Sue thought they were doing a mating dance.

I think they were just trying desperately to survive. (This one's for you, Darren.)

We felt lucky to be able to escape from the cold into Carlingwood Mall. The coffee was good. A kitchen shop sale yielded some unexpected purchases – a mandoline and some electric scales.

Next door the man in the art gallery failed to make a sale but did engage us in pleasant conversation for a good half hour.

Later some TGO Challenge business was conducted – more of that in a future posting; a fine meal was prepared, and we all had a chuckle at this video – Sue’s attempt yesterday to demonstrate our arduous progress along the ski trail on Ridge Road.



This cross-country skiing lark is such hard work, you know!

Wednesday, 28 January 2009

Tuesday 27 January 2009 - Halcyon Days

Halcyon Days are supposed to be calm and tranquil, or happy and carefree.

This was one of those days.

Wall to wall sunshine adorned our living room, which today was again Gatineau Park. Early mist over the Ottawa River had melded into hoar frost on the trees as we crossed the river, passing Bate Island, which looked very similar to over a week ago, when we stopped here.

Kingsmere (P7) was our starting point today, together with Helen who has safely returned from her training weekend in Atlanta. We donned sun tan cream and dark glasses and headed in about -14°C up Trail 30 to Ridge Road. It was a gorgeous, still day. A right turn then took us along the black diamond (hard) Skyline Trail.

This trail was built immediately after the creation of the park in 1938, as a Depression Era relief project, and it sports a charming undulating pathway with good views towards Hull and the Ottawa Valley.

Here we all are, enjoying the warm sun and the fine views:

There are some short, steep sections on this 4km loop. I managed to lose control on one of the corners. My fall was controlled, however, compared to Sue’s two wipe-outs. Helen and I kept catching up with her snow covered form, dashing along as if there was no tomorrow. The adrenaline rush caused by last night’s films had clearly not worn off. Tortoise and hare stuff. All good fun though, and no damage was done, so we returned happy and warm to Ridge Road and the pleasant track to Keogan Cabin for lunch.

Here are shots taken firstly on the Skyline Trail, and below that on the immaculately groomed Ridge Road.

Huge icicles hung outside the cabin, and birds and squirrels were enjoying the feeder as usual.

Here are the interior, the view from our lunch bench, and the exterior of Keogan Cabin:

Deserting the warmth of the cabin, we enjoyed the descent to Kingsmere and were actually back at home by 2pm, ready for our customary leisurely afternoon.

Here are Sue, then Helen, descending trail 30 to Kingsmere. It looks easy, but notice how the person following Helen arrives at the corner (there is no track in that direction), and you may be able to hear her friend swish past at the end, just missing the photographer.



Today’s exercise constituted another 13km ski, taking us from 10.35 to 13.15, including our 45 minute break at Keogan Cabin.

Monday, 26 January 2009

Monday 26 January 2009 - The Best of Banff

After a rest day from skiing....

Yes we do help with the housework in our home from home!

...we spent the evening at the cinema, in front of seven films selected for Ottawa by the Banff Mountain Film Festival World Tour.

Here's their trailer:




The films were aimed at the 'adrenaline junkies' in the audience, rather than those looking for a cultural or environmental bias.

We were introduced to a multi-talented red helmet, a piece of Scottish rock covered in chalk, and a full length film about some BASE jumpers tackling a jump down a big hole in China - very impressive that hole was too.

During the interval an attempt was made to distribute minor items of gear (not up to the standard of my new hat, Phil) as prizes in a raffle for which everyone had been handed tickets. Unfortunately, as the numbers in the 'hat' didn't often match those held by members of the audience, this was a fairly long drawn out and tedious process.

Then we enjoyed more adrenaline fuelled film-making, with images of acrobatic cycling (the highlight being a ride along a chain-link railing), kayaking from the underground source of a river in Papua New Guinea to the Pacific (down some stupendous rapids), climbing on some sandstone towers (no chalk this time), and heli-skiing down unlikely looking slopes (rather steep).

We returned, exhausted, for hot chocolate and Christmas cake at Woodroffe Towers, all set for our more prosaic (not sure if that's the right word) skiing tomorrow.

The World Tour For Adrenaline Junkies will visit the UK later this year, but dates and venues have not yet been announced.