25 and 26 February 2006 - A Weekend at the White Lion Inn, Cray

                                      Saturday morning view from Cray

A 'Famous Five' Weekend at the White Lion Inn, Cray

Saturday 25 February 2006

Andrew, Richard, Jenny, Sue and I had reached the venue without incident on Friday night, and Debbie confirmed we were actually booked in this time.* 

Neil and Liz Piper, Andrew's friends, joined us at 9:30 for a 'walk of two halves'. 

Ready to roll - Sue, Liz, Richard, Neil, Jenny and Andrew

This route was a change of plan driven by Andrew's poor recovery from a cold and his desire for an easy day. So the first half was mainly downhill. Near Hubberholme, Richard spotted a kingfisher sitting by the river. We watched for some time. There were also dippers and mallards. Sunny periods, but a sharp northeast breeze, so three layers including Rab fleece were handy.

Yockenthwaite

Hubberholme

Heading on from Hubberholme towards Starbotton

We had started our meander at 9:45, and we stopped for lunch at 12:30 to 1pm by the Wharfe beyond Buckden. Then from 1:30 to 2:15 we loitered in the pub at Starbotton. We could have sat outside in the sun when we arrived, but soon a light mizzle pervaded the air, and from our cosy position before the fire we could see our boots, left outside, slowly moistening.

Andrew and Liz decided to walk back up the road. The rest of us, perhaps foolishly, decided to go via Buckden Pike. Neil, a local living in Thoralby, led the way when Richard became uncertain in the driving sleet.

The strong wind blasted us and again I was reminded that my yellow craghopper waterproof with its flimsy hood that blows back in wind really needs replacing. It was a relief to bear left by the wall up to the summit, and even more so to reach the summit after a real slog through the snow, ice and mush of the deeper marshes.

From here we quickly descended to Cray, via some slippery icy sections, to reach the pub at 5:15, so whilst Naismith would have taken five and a quarter hours, we walked for six and a quarter.

Our route - 21km, 680 metres ascent

Neil and Liz went home to change; the rest of us adjourned for showers etc, before reconvening for more champagne and dips etc - last night these had been in Andrew's room - to celebrate Sue's 39th birthday.

More progress at eating the birthday cake provided by Andrew was also made, then a convivial evening with good food and company.

Sunday 26 February 2006 

A sunny morning outside the White Lion

For Sue and my joint birthday walk from Grassington we were the Famous Five plus Don, Liz and Gary (expected) and also Mike Pope and his brother-in-law Roy - making a very surprise appearance!

The weather was good again, with sunny periods, as we ambled north up the Dales Way before turning to reach Kelber.

There were only a few people around. This was my route and it didn't help when I left the map behind after a pee stop. After recovering it, we progressed easily to a lunch stop at Yarnbury. 

Elevenses?

This is near home for Roy, who (like Neil yesterday) knows the area well. Andrew was tired so returned to Grassington by road, whilst the rest of us carried on via Mossy Moor Ridge and Edge Top, around Hebden, then back pleasantly to Grassington beside the Wharfe. We got briefly misplaced at Ratlock Hill and Roy's GPS came in handy. 

We passed a cow that was sporting a fine set of false teeth!?

Kayakers were playing by the bridge in Grassington. 

A nice tea shop was found after some of the party had dispersed.

Note - there is free parking at Hebden. Set off 10:15, half-hour lunch, 3:45 finish, so 5 hours walking (Naismith four and a half).

Our route - 19km, 400 metres ascent

*Unlike our previous visit, when the organiser had forgotten to book our room!

Footnote: This entry has been extracted from a 2006 diary to accompany the images which have not been looked at until now! The route details are from memory - not necessarily correct!

Second Footnote: Here's an extract from Conrad's 2016 posting (see comments):

Well today I parked up at Buckden on a thirty-car sized car park that didn't exist in 1960 and paid £4.50 for the privilege. My mission was to walk a previously un-walked section of  the Dales Way. To make this more worthwhile I climbed up onto the high ridge on the western side of the dale and followed, mostly on faint but decent paths, passing  Birks Tarn teeming with gulls and other water birds, to the trig point at Horse Head and beyond. There was a great top-of-the-world feeling up there. I descended to Beckermonds and connected to the Dales Way following the Upper Wharfe downstream, through sheer delight back to Buckden.

I saw nobody until I was on the Dales Way path, then casual walkers were abundant, and cars were parked on the road across the river  with families picnicking and playing in the tempting pools of the Upper Wharfe. Strangely the dale is called Langstrothdale. Back in Buckden the place was busy with many walkers and visitors and the car park which was empty at 9:00 am was full. I called into the tearooms (back in the 60s there was just a village shop). The proprietor has been in the village for many years and we reminisced about the characters we had both known. Jacky Beresford was a local always found in the Buck Inn;  we used to buy him a pint and get him going with stories of giant trout caught in the river. Jacky operated a school-run business using an old hearse. Then there was Major Horner, notorious, bad tempered landlord of the White Lion at Cray, a mile or so up the road. He once attacked some customers who had caused him some annoyance with a claw hammer. I have tried to research that story which was well publicised at the time, but with no result, but I did find this extract from a nostalgia article in the Craven Herald:

The White Lion was also in the news as its landlord and eight local farm workers were caught drinking when police walked in at 11.30pm. With licensing hours a hot topic today, it is interesting to note that in 1955 last orders was at 10pm with the premises to be vacated 10 minutes later. Major Horner, the landlord, was fined £3 and three of the drinkers fined £1.

A Short Tour of the Vanoise – Saturday 25 August 2007 - Day 0 – Travel to Modane

This series of entries is my attempt to digitise some diary entries made in 2007, shortly before the setting up of this blog. Whilst the trip was over ten years ago, it recounts our hutting trip on a popular route and may be of interest to anyone wanting a relatively easy hut to hut route for a week’s holiday in great alpine scenery. Sue, Jenny and I took turns in writing the diary, as annotated to the various entries. Pen shy Andrew and Richard completed the ‘Famous Five’.

"Carry On Up The Vanoise" (with 'The Famous Five')

We meet at Manchester Airport at 8.00am. Andrew has been here for some time, but is strangely sitting in 'arrivals' - is he unsure about this trip?

The self check in proves to be less successful than we'd hoped, but we all manage to check in and board the plane. Jenny has taken four 'Kalms' and has a bit of a hangover, so the flight is not too bad all things considered.

Richard has managed to lose his sunglasses before we are even out of the UK, but apart from that we arrive in Lyon intact and in good time.

Martin arranges the car hire while Sue, Jenny, Richard and Andrew have to fend off an overactive child.

Drive to Decathlon for camping gas (Martin), sunglasses (Richard), and a top (Jenny). Lunch in a small lay-by, then it's off to Modane. Check in to the Hotel Perce-Niege. Hotel is nice - apart from strange padded doors - what are they expecting us to do, we wonder?

Beers in Modane.

Then a meal at the hotel - French cuisine here, unlike the rest of Modane* which seems to be more of the pizza variety. Good food and a nice atmosphere. Richard is told off for eating Jenny's pudding (fruit) - although it then becomes unclear as to whose husband is Jenny's as Andrew also appears to be eating her pudding.

All retire early, ready for tomorrow's walk. Nice tarte aux pommes.

Jenny

* we didn't actually see the centre of Modane, which was in the unknown territory beyond our hotel!

Thursday 6 August 2020 - The 'Famous Five' in Cheshire

 

Well, the same 'Famous Five' as in many previous postings, most recently the evening walk on 5 April 2006 referred to in yesterday's posting, were reunited for another evening in 'Deepest Cheshire', with Andrew leading, as is now customary. With the passing years the distance covered on these walks has subsided to around 5 km. They used to be as much as 15+ km and finish really late after a busy day at work.

 

Anyway, we parked up at a nondescript lay-by to which Andrew's directions easily guided us. With R&J running late, Sue and I spent a relaxing 15 minutes with Andrew on the camp chairs that live in the boot of Sue's car.

 

Once we got going ('no rush, it's only 5 km') we soon reached the bubbling cauldron of this part of Cheshire's favourite river - the Peover Eye.

 

 

 

Nearby, Jodrell Bank telescope was in its resting position. Andrew explained that it had remained so since Lockdown due to public sector workers having been able to take time off on full pay. (I'm not sure I buy that one, Andrew!)

 

 

It's nice to know that the Cheshire farmers are still working hard - these cows were incredibly clean, and very well behaved (behind their electric fence).

 

It was a warm hot summer's evening, so something of a surprise to see smoke swirling from a chimney at Bate Mill, though judging by the car the place may be in some sort of parallel universe. (See below!)
 

 

Peover Eye was crossed again as dusk curtailed photographic activity. It's a fine body of water for one that emanates fairly close by (near Redesmere?).

 

 

Garmin appear to have paid their ransom and are back to a semblance of normal, so this week I was able to download the route, which amounted to a little over 5km, and a few more stiles than Andrew would have liked if anyone but he had chosen it!

 

Conrad obviously has more time on his hands than I have:
Here's his take on Bate Mill...

 

14 to 25 July 1989 - Alta Via 2 - Day 0 - Getting to the Start

 

The Famous Five go to Venice

(Subtitled: Dolomitic Dawdling)

Introduction: This is the illustrated transcription of a diary maintained by the five participants of this 1989 holiday. The photo album from which I have scanned the pictures includes photocopies of the relevant pages of the Cicerone guide to Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2 (AV2). We didn't pack the whole book on grounds of weight. I have however scanned the overview maps, and I've plotted the route using Viewranger mapping. Obviously this trip took place over 30 years ago, since when there will have been numerous changes, not least a ban on camping in many of our overnight resting places. The current Cicerone Guide will no doubt be very helpful with the planning and execution of this walk in current times, subject to things returning to 'normal' after Covid.

 

The map shown above, taken from our diary, places the red line of our route into context. As always, click on the image for a more readable version.

As usual, I have kept editing to an absolute minimum. The story will be principally of interest to Dave and Martin W, who were there and who will no doubt recall some of the more 'interesting' moments. Their comments will be welcome. (I already have one from Martin.) We will also recall the good times, adventures, and companionship we enjoyed with Laurie and John, who are sadly no longer with us. So this little project is to a degree in their memory.

You might think from the following text that we were backpacking novices. In fact we had all been backpacking for many years, and in the Alps and Pyrenees since 1980, so deficiencies may be attributed to a mixture of work and family pressures, as well as inherent incompetence.

It's interesting to note that we have moved on from the days when three of us squeezed into a Vango Mk 4 tent - on this trip we all had our own single person tents.

The timing of the trip - 10 days' walking plus two days travelling, was quite ambitious and was dictated by holiday quotas. It was actually a little less demanding, height and distance wise, than a trip to the Pyrenees the previous year. However, I'll allow more time if I do this route again. And I may by-pass some of the trickier sections.
 

Here goes: remember this is my indulgence, and may be of passing interest to my children one day, but you don't have to read it!

(Diarist: Martin B)

Nell was up bright and early at 5 am on Friday 14 July 1989. John and Martin B were soon up and after tea had been taken, Ford Sierra E64 UNA commenced probably its last taxi trip, collecting Dave on the way to Terminal B for the 7:25 to Venice. Laurie and Martin W made their way by supertaxi, and the five met up without incident.

Laurie had solved the problem of keeping the taxi waiting by staying up all night. He has his weighty grip and filofax once again so is unlikely to be getting very far ahead.

Whilst waiting, the cloud rolled back and blue sky took command.

Onto the Monarch, and D, MB and J have a jolly time looking at Dave and Laurie's packing lists, and a not so jolly time on the subject of Dave's ailments of last year. 757 to Venice was ok until another plane's baggage got unloaded before ours. 1¼ hours later we were away.

Timing problems meant we failed to get our designated train from Venice, but after a taxi ride and a boat ride, despite L's preference for buses, we arrived at Venice station with 2 hours to spare before the next train. Various sorties resolved 'THE GREAT CAMPING GAS PROBLEM' and various food deficiencies. Very hot and humid. Both Martins have headaches.

 

 

 

Decent train journey to Bressanone despite changes at Verona and Bolzano.

Interesting valleys and views. Hilltop fortresses, tremendous road engineering feat (leading to the Brenner pass).

Snooze the journey away, as well.

2:45 -  Venice, 7:18 - Bressanone. Laurie careers about oblivious to the Consulting Quartet. He eventually loses us. The quartet decide to find a B&B. Laurie finds a map and sprints off. He is full of energy today - he has not yet attached his grip to his rucksack. John and the two Martins are fairly manageable weight wise, but I (Martin B) realise with dismay that I have packed two stoves.

Laurie returns, grinning. He has found the campsite. We have another coffee, then go to a one star hotel previously spotted as cheap. They don't seem to do rooms. Go to a 3-star hotel and find two rooms for 140,000 lire (£63). The restaurant has stopped serving (9 pm). Wander aimlessly looking for food. Lots of false starts. Fail. Martin W adjourns for butties in the room, and the rest of us make do with beer and coffee.

Animated conversations on business writing techniques and Laurie's rucksack.

In bed by 11 to 11:30 (really an hour earlier due to clocks changing) at the Hotel Chiavi d'Oro (The Golden Keys).
 

Next Day

Sunday 5 July 2009 - Day 1 - Limone to Pian delle Gorre

First - congratulations 'Anonymous', your observations about last night's restaurant are spot on - confirmed by its 'Coach and Horses' logo.

Our other readers seem to be wisely silent or, like us, away enjoying new adventures and only an occasional signal.

The Touring Hotel was friendly and fine, if a little pricey at €45 pp for B+B, and just a bit noisy at 2-3 am when the nearby Irish bar 'chucked out'.

Luckily the 'Vespa Club of Torino', who had earlier filled the town with 2-stroke fumes, had either left town or gone to bed early.

Today's path took us from Limone to the route of the 'Giro del Marguareis' - a short trek that very few English will have heard of, but one that passes through fine country and will link us with sections of the GTA (Grande Traversata delle Alpi) for the final few days of this biennial 'Famous Five' trip.

We travel light and use Rifugios. It's very relaxing. For the rest of the trip I'll be even lighter, as my walking poles disappeared during the course of the day. A shame, as they were my 14 year old original Leki poles, bought to provide support pending an ACL replacement. They, like my knees, have been through a lot.

So, this morning we headed out of Limone on paths not described in any guidebook and marked only vaguely on our 1:50000 map. We were pleasantly surprised as the good path wound gently up the hillside through lovely old woodland towards Colle Almellina, 500 metres above Limone.

On the way we paused at a bench overlooking Limone, causing a friendly man with a small friendly dog (all Italians and their dogs appear friendly) to have to queue to sit down to read his paper. "That's a long way" he remarked, when we told him where we were heading for.

Above the colle a vague but waymarked path led directly below a floating eagle and past skipping chamois towards Colla del Vaccarile, below which we stopped for a long lunch whilst several of the party, unused to being at an altitude of 2000 metres, were glad of the hour they were allowed, to recover their breath in the oxygen deprived environment (or so they claimed).

We descended past marmosettes into cloud that had been building on this fairly humid day. The path was vague and no longer waymarked. The loss of my poles was discovered. I returned rather energetically to our lunch spot. Some re-ascent was involved. No poles. Hey ho. The others waited patiently in their cloud. I returned. We continued to fumble our way down the hillside, encountering shepherds' huts marked on the map, and paths that were not so well recorded.

The views cleared. The flowers continued to delight (most of) us. We entered more lovely woodland and passed a roaring waterfall before emerging at Rivendell, a lovely grassy area thronged with Sunday picnickers from Cuneo, with this delightful rifugio (pictured) at one end of the meadow.

It came on to rain (it's for the heat - as Showell Styles used to accurately observe) but we didn't mind, we were happy with our beers, and later with an excellent four course meal involving polenta, beef, sausage, chicken, salad, cheese, parma ham and tarte tatin for pudding. There was a fine veggie option for Jenny that arrived on time - the Sport Hotel in Arabba could learn a thing or two from this friendly establishment when it comes to dealing with vegetarians!

Thoroughly satiated in almost every way from the day's activities, we adjourned early but happy to our en-suite room for five people.

There are just 8 people staying here, the 5 of us, 2 Germans who are looking at us very quizzically, and a lone elderly gent. It's all very pleasant, and much quieter than the GR5, our original plan for this trip.

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Saturday 24 March 2012 – Andrew’s ‘Appy Amble – A Peak District Wander

Andrew’s carefully crafted amble required a 10.00am departure from Ridgegate Reservoir, by Langley.  Some of us only just about got there in time.

On this occasion the ‘Famous Five’ (Sue, Jenny, Richard, Andrew, Martin) were joined by Liz and Neil, down from the Yorkshire Dales to taste some of the hillier bits of Cheshire.

Andrew led off past some forest, where the resident sparrowhawks weren’t in evidence today.  He seemed relieved when the usual tea van at Trentabank was conspicuous by its absence – that would have put us behind schedule!

Once on the open moorland above the edge of the forest, we could see a trail of people on their way up Shutlingsloe, a busy place on this warm sunny Saturday.

We soon reached the top and took our turn at the trig point.

Elevenses on the summit were followed by the gentle descent towards Wildboarclough, from which we looked back to a hovering kestrel and the hordes on Shutlingsloe's summit.  Our path would now be quiet all the way to Tegg’s Nose, most people apparently preferring shorter excursions today.

A field of grazing goats provided respite from the ubiquitous sheep as we pottered on along Andrew’s carefully plotted route, which headed relentlessly north towards Torgate Farm.  Near the farm we stopped for lunch in the shelter of a wall (there was a miniscule cool breeze) with Shining Tor as our backdrop.

The afternoon’s perambulations soon had us up at Macclesfield Forest, where the schedule and the size of our group precluded a rest on the well positioned bench which relates the first two lines of William Henry Davies’s poem - ‘Leisure’.

What is this life if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.

No time to stand beneath the boughs
And stare as long as sheep or cows.

No time to see, when woods we pass,
Where squirrels hide their nuts in grass.

No time to see, in broad daylight,
Streams full of stars, like skies at night.

No time to turn at Beauty's glance,
And watch her feet, how they can dance.

No time to wait till her mouth can
Enrich that smile her eyes began.

A poor life this if, full of care,
We have no time to stand and stare.

Moving on from Macclesfield Forest - the place, we headed on up Charity Lane.  Some distressed mountain bikers saw us take to their preferred route, leaving the skittery pebbles for them to negotiate with care.  No animosity though, there’s room for everyone here.

Then we entered Macclesfield Forest - the forest, where on this particular path the trees always seem to look wonderful.  It’s a great forest path.

Through the forest and on below Five Ashes we strolled, behind schedule.  A short debate as to whether a short cut should be deployed was resolved by an overwhelming desire to visit the industrial archaeology of Tegg’s Nose quarries.  I’ve written about Tegg’s Nose before, notably here, so I’ll restrict today’s indulgence to just one of Sue’s photos.

Tegg’s Nose was even busier than Shutlingsloe.  Perhaps not surprising, given the cafe and toilet facilities.  There were lots of ‘Duke of Edinburgh’ students, clearly embarking on a summer of training to enjoy the Great Outdoors.  The weather won’t always be as kind to them as it was today…

We looked down from Tegg's Nose to the Reservoirs of Langley and to Croker Hill beyond – a hazy vista through which not even nearby Jodrell Bank could be discerned.

Passing through an area of brightly flowering Gorse, we noticed that it was full of ladybirds.

Bottoms Reservoir was flat calm apart from the ripples created by a pair of amorous Great Crested Grebes.  We had heard Chiffchaffs today – their arrival in the UK is a sign of spring, and blog postings from all around the country are recording their arrival.  I wonder where our Swifts are just now?

Steam engines outside the Leather's Smithy distracted us briefly from a distance, or rather the raucous behaviour in the vicinity of the engines, as we completed this lovely stroll via the southern shore of Ridgegate Reservoir, before adjourning (not too far behind schedule) to tea and cake and an evening of fine dining at chez Andrew and Rosemary.  Thank you both for a splendid route and an entertaining evening.

Here’s our route - 20km, 650 metres ascent, taking a leisurely 6 hours.

There’s a slideshow here, and for those who prefer to walk a little further, there’s a report (courtesy of JJ) on a very similar but slightly longer route here.

Friday 8 July 2011 - A Walk to Refuge des Merveilles

12km, 1300 metres ascent, 6.25 hours.

Having shed James and Helen from the reconstituted 'famous five' yesterday, we shed Susan this morning, as she has to catch a flight from Nice to JFK tomorrow morning. We did enjoy your company, Susan, and your less expected company, James and Helen - we hope to see you again at cider pressing time.

Despite her living in Glastonbury, Connecticut, we anticipate more adventures with well-travelled Susan a bit sooner than some may expect.

Anyway, on another fine, sunny morning we said our goodbyes and jumped on the big old bus that now plies the 20km or so route between Tende and Castérino. A bargain for €1, but a challenge for the driver who has to manoeuvre the old vehicle around countless hairpin bends.

Our first objective in Castérino was to book accommodation for tomorrow night; our second was to relax with a coffee. We achieved the latter, but the village is full tomorrow - not a single bed remains. Plan B was implemented - go to Tende tomorrow and try to find somewhere. Only when a vague sort of 'phone signal appeared several hours later did we realise that Plan C could be an option.

Meanwhile, we set off on Gillian's walk number 2, the Mont Bégo Loop. Up a pleasant jeep track through pine woods where nutcrackers were in evidence. The otherwise deserted track was luxuriously lined with a plethora of flowers - martagan lilies with huge blooms, our first sightings of black vanilla and burnt orchids, cow wheat and large clumps of globeflower and marsh marigolds, to name but a few of the countless species on offer.

Refuge de Fontanalba provided welcome refreshments. It was otherwise deserted.

A short way further along the track, we branched to the right towards the site of ancient rock engravings. A guard (warden?) was in situ to check that our walking poles were stashed and would not be adding to the ancient markings, some of which are apparently reproductions, the originals having been taken for display in the museum at Tende.

We spent the best part of two hours wandering around this 'Fontanalba Rock Engraving Circuit' (walk no 1 in Gillian's book). We found it interesting, but just a little over-hyped. The section known as 'La Voie Sacrée' was shut, apparently for health and safety reasons due to some of the slippery stones having themselves slipped. Pathetic!

There were a few people around, including three Germans seen at Rif Soria-Ellena.

A 'phone signal appeared. I had a brainwave. Plan C for tomorrow night was hatched. The role of a guide book writer can be tough at times. This time Gillian far exceeded her duties and within a few minutes we were booked into a hotel in Tende. Thank you, Gillian.

Moral: pre-book your weekend accommodation in this area, even out of the main season.

Our afternoon stroll to Refuge des Merveilles was undertaken on virtually deserted, but delightful, paths, so it was a bit of a shock to find hordes of people outside the refuge. We knew the score, as this refuge has an internet booking system requiring a €10 deposit, and we obtained - a couple of weeks ago - two of the last places for tonight. It takes 79 people, and was full. Still a shock to find so many people after encountering so few all day.

We finished up on a table with lots of 'hut to hut' walking enthusiasts, including Gilles Clement from Paris, with five friends, on an annual pilgrimage. It was great to meet you Gilles, and your friends, and thank you for being so gracious about our failings in relation to the French language. Your English is excellent.

Back to our route - we encountered our first edelweiss on Baisse de Vallauretta, where I no doubt had Gillian puzzled by mis-naming it. Descending to Vallon de la Minière, we encountered chamois, and a group heading up to wild camp, with a pony carrying their tents and other gear.

It was perfect walking weather. Sunny but not too hot, with a cooling breeze. This enabled us to speed up to the refuge with 15 minutes to spare - we had been told that our places would only be reserved until 5pm! I don't think we'd have been turned away though. We then had to wait outside in the sunshine until 6pm, when we were shown to our beds in the huge dormitory. Meanwhile we could purchase a litre of hot water for €1, and I finally found the teaspoon that I'd packed to accompany the mugs, tea and dried milk.

One of the hut guardians spoke very good English - Kevin, who told us his father was English, one Steve Peacock, said as if we should know him...

The evening passed quickly in the company of our new found friends, and the four course meal was very good considering that nearly 80 people were being served in one sitting by a handful of staff.

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Thursday 7 July 2011 - An Alpi Marittime Trek, Day 6, Rifugio Pagari (2650m) to San Giacomo (1210m)

11km, 250m ascent, 5.4 hours.

Trek Totals - 80km (50 miles), 6000 metres ascent, 40 hours including breaks.

Last night we enjoyed our best meal yet, at the hands of Maria of Pagari. Antipasta > lasagne al forno > polenta with vegetables, carrots and mushrooms, all with exotic flavouring > crostata della casa. Delicious. Vegetarian.

Yesterday's posting was written before dinner, after which despite the apparent presence of a phone signal from time to time, it took until we reached the village of Entracque this afternoon before it finally 'sent' and we received comments from the last day or two. We hope we didn't worry Gillian into thinking we may have come to grief on the high route to Pagari! The guardian there tells us that some years the high route is not possible at all without ice axe and crampons, but in other years the snow may be safe for ordinary pedestrians by mid July. Just now conditions are dangerous, with a layer of hard ice underneath steep soft snow on a 500 metre section of the crossing. Perhaps a rope would also be handy.

Thank you as always for your comments...

Alan, you are so kind! EasyJet to Nice beckons for you and Sheila; we are sure you'd enjoy it here. The opportunities for wild camping are exceptional as well.

Nick, we have Yaktrax Pro footwear. As you surmise, they are good for icy pavements, but also can be kept in a day sack for steep snow and other conditions where more grip is desirable but full mountaineering kit isn't needed. It's important that you test them in order to know their limits. I did that in the Lakes and on Ben Lomond last year and found them to be grippier than expected, but no use on steep ice.
How are you getting on BTW?

Nightbird, I feel ashamed to have distracted you from important work, and also to have found a temporary replacement for you in the 'Famous Five' team. You'll be pleased to hear that the finely tuned restructured team has now been disbanded, but we do hope to have a reunion. Neither Susan nor Helen could match your 'Nightbird' performance, though their ability to cope with steep snow slopes was ... well ... better?
There will of course be a slide show.

We enjoyed muesli for breakfast! If they can do that at the highest rifugio, why not at all of them?
So we set out well fortified on stage 2 of Gillian's walk number 19, the descent to San Giacomo via Lago Bianco del Gelàs.

It started as a sporty route along a narrow rocky path interspersed with steep snow traverses (pictured). Luckily the snow wasn't hard enough to create any particular dramas. The most difficult section was a short traverse across a collapsed gully. After that, a minor route finding dilemma was resolved by following the marked path to Bivacco Moncalieri, as far as Lago Bianco del Gelàs. Here, a family group of ibex watched as we investigated the memorial to a man killed in 1971 whilst working on the construction of a rifugio here.

All that remains of the structure is its concrete base and a few piles of rubble.

But Rif Pagari is about to be extended.

The long descent to San Giacomo was steep but delightful, with 'new' flowers to record and a plethora of butterflies to enjoy. We also saw a ptarmigan and a black grouse, and heard a chiffchaff.

There was nobody else on this route, and little sign of anyone else having been there this season.

The weather teased us by producing a short shower out of nowhere shortly before we reached San Giacomo and the end of this excellent trek, but by the time we reached the café there, we were able to sit outside to enjoy our celebratory platters of meats and cheeses, etc.

Delicious!

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