The Famous Five go to Venice
(Subtitled: Dolomitic Dawdling)
Introduction: This is the illustrated transcription of a
diary maintained by the five participants of this 1989 holiday. The photo album
from which I have scanned the pictures includes photocopies of the relevant
pages of the Cicerone guide to Alta Via 1 and Alta Via 2 (AV2). We didn't pack
the whole book on grounds of weight. I have however scanned the overview maps,
and I've plotted the route using Viewranger mapping. Obviously this trip took place
over 30 years ago, since when there will have been numerous changes, not least a
ban on camping in many of our overnight resting places. The current Cicerone
Guide will no doubt be very helpful with the planning and execution of this
walk in current times, subject to things returning to 'normal' after Covid.
The map shown above, taken from our diary, places the red line of our route into context. As always, click on the image for a more readable version.
As usual, I have kept editing to an absolute minimum. The
story will be principally of interest to Dave and Martin W, who were there and
who will no doubt recall some of the more 'interesting' moments. Their comments will be welcome. (I already have one from Martin.) We will also
recall the good times, adventures, and companionship we enjoyed with Laurie
and John, who are sadly no longer with us. So this little project is to a degree in their memory.
You might think from the following text that we were backpacking
novices. In fact we had all been backpacking for many years, and in the Alps
and Pyrenees since 1980, so deficiencies may
be attributed to a mixture of work and family pressures, as well as inherent
incompetence.
It's interesting to note that we have moved on from the days
when three of us squeezed into a Vango Mk 4 tent - on this trip we all had our
own single person tents.
The timing of the trip - 10 days' walking plus two days
travelling, was quite ambitious and was dictated by holiday quotas. It was
actually a little less demanding, height and distance wise, than a trip to the Pyrenees the previous year. However, I'll allow more time
if I do this route again. And I may by-pass some of the trickier sections.
Here goes: remember this is my indulgence, and may be of
passing interest to my children one day, but you don't have to read it!
(Diarist: Martin B)
Nell was up bright and early at 5 am on Friday 14 July 1989.
John and Martin B were soon up and after tea had been taken, Ford Sierra E64 UNA commenced
probably its last taxi trip, collecting Dave on the way to Terminal B for the
7:25 to Venice .
Laurie and Martin W made their way by supertaxi, and the five met up without
incident.
Laurie had solved the problem of keeping the taxi waiting by
staying up all night. He has his weighty grip and filofax once again so is
unlikely to be getting very far ahead.
Whilst waiting, the cloud rolled back and blue sky took
command.
Onto
the Monarch, and D, MB and J have a jolly time looking at Dave and Laurie's packing
lists, and a not so jolly time on the subject of Dave's ailments of last year.
757 to Venice
was ok until another plane's baggage got unloaded before ours. 1¼ hours later we were away.
Timing
problems meant we failed to get our designated train from Venice ,
but after a taxi ride and a boat ride, despite L's preference for buses, we
arrived at Venice
station with 2 hours to spare before the next train. Various sorties resolved 'THE GREAT CAMPING GAS PROBLEM' and various
food deficiencies. Very hot and humid. Both Martins have headaches.
Decent train journey to Bressanone despite changes at
Interesting
valleys and views. Hilltop fortresses, tremendous road engineering feat (leading
to the Brenner pass ).
Snooze
the journey away, as well.
2:45
- Venice ,
7:18 - Bressanone. Laurie careers about oblivious to the Consulting Quartet. He eventually
loses us. The quartet decide to find a B&B. Laurie finds a map and sprints
off. He is full of energy today - he has not yet attached his grip to his
rucksack. John and the two Martins are fairly manageable weight wise, but I
(Martin B) realise with dismay that I have packed two stoves.
Laurie
returns, grinning. He has found the campsite. We have another coffee, then go
to a one star hotel previously spotted as cheap. They don't seem to do rooms. Go
to a 3-star hotel and find two rooms for 140,000 lire (£63). The restaurant has
stopped serving (9 pm). Wander aimlessly looking for food. Lots of false starts.
Fail. Martin W adjourns for butties in the room, and the rest of us make do with
beer and coffee.
Animated
conversations on business writing techniques and Laurie's rucksack.
In
bed by 11 to 11:30 (really an hour earlier due to clocks changing) at the Hotel Chiavi d'Oro (The
Golden Keys).
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