A Perfect Day in the Alps

After yesterday's chatty 13km excursion in good company, with only about 100 metres ascent, taking around 4.5 hours, today we woke to 12C coolness under a clear blue sky, in the knowledge that today's less frequented route would probably neither have been 'cleared' by the two men with rakes we had seen on #20, nor adorned with the sort of information boards that have sprung up at frequent intervals on that fine belvedere route.

Those brand new information boards are in fact the main change from Gillian's description of her walk number 9. They cover a range of topics, from the construction of the Stelvio Pass in 1820 to its wartime use, and the flora and flora of the area, even extending to an explanation about how the expulsion of the contents of rabbits' intestines serves to fertilise the land and benefits the flora. All very 'German'? though the information boards were in both German and Italian, with English only appearing at the Furkelhütte. Perhaps English speakers are expected just to get the chair lift up there and walk down #17?

Anyway, today we set off on a perfectly clear, warm morning, down a lane to the south, to Drei Brunnen. Path 15 took us past an ornate chapel then up through shady pine woods to Rifugio Borletti, at 2188 metres, some 600 odd metres above camp.

We took our time. A few old dears passed us. The distant roar of cars as they grunted their way up the Stelvio Pass slowly diminished. The flower book was out. Wintergreens, Garland Flower and Cowberry were highlights. Common Spotted Orchid was lush and abundant. We stopped frequently and relished new 'spots'.

Yes, we seem to be bagging flowers!

As we emerged from the woods and approached the hut, Spring Gentians dominated the path's verges.

Schiewasser, Fanta and an unpronounceable soup were most welcome after our leisurely two and a half hour ascent. Most people turn round here, but we continued on up #18 towards Tabaretta. Only two people followed us - by coincidence the Slovenian couple in the next tent. A second lunch occupied a delightful half hour with stunning views and Shrubby Milkwort and Rock Speedwell in attendance. Sue is pictured near here, with Rif Borletti in the background. You may also make out the zigzags of the Stelvio Pass behind. The route of the Meranoweg path can also be seen.

A final ascent brought us to the flat summit of Pic Tabaretta - at 2538 metres, our high point of the day. It was a lovely flat meadowy summit with stunning views; an idyllic camping spot in good weather like this.

We reluctantly moved on. Whilst the Slovenians headed up to Rifugio Payer, we contoured along #18A towards the derelict remains of the Alpenrosehütte. This was the trickiest path of the day, featuring a short traverse behind a steep bergschrund towards a flock of sheep seeking shade from the relentless sunshine.

The temperature in the open rose to a hot 27C as we descended, as if into a cauldron, to 2000 metres; but then #18 entered the tree line. It was cooler under the canopy, with a lovely aroma of fresh pine. The afternoon was beautiful, with a cloudless sky and no sign of haze despite the continuing hot weather.

On the approach to Trafoi a forest path (#3) led left to cross the river by a footbridge before rising to deliver us efficiently at the campsite.

Today's route is mentioned in Gillian Price's book as the descent to Trafoi in Route 11, with our ascent being mentioned by Gillian as an alternative descent. The paths were well maintained and are probably more heavily used than when Gillian wrote her guide.

The campsite shop saw to all our needs - brew, beer, alfresco supper - before we ambled down to the village, which seems to be a refuge for Opel vehicles on test, and admired the Alpenglow as the sun lingered late on the Ortler peaks. Those staying in high mountain huts will have had an evening to remember.

But we are also content. A fine walk (10km, 1100 metres ascent, 7.5 hours) with stunning views in perfect weather with the one you love. Who could ask for more?

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Walk Number 9, with Vanessa and Peter

Hanging high above our campsite at Trafoi are numerous glaciers cascading from the high summits above the Trafoier Tal. The most familiar name to most readers may be 'Ortler' a peak of 3905 metres that tops this particular range, but that is out of our view from the campsite.

This is definitely nothing like North Yorkshire!

Gillian Price, in her Cicerone guide 'Walking in the Central Italian Alps', reckons 'Walk 9' in her book is 'a brilliant way to start a walking holiday in the area'. It involves getting a bus up the 48 hairpins of the Stelvio Pass (Stilfser Joch), then walking back to Trafoi, initially along #20 to Furkelhütte, then down #17 to complete the 1300 metre descent.

We knew the bus times. We thought we could catch the 9.12 at the road junction leading to the campsite.

"The bus stop is in the village" said the campsite man, so we rushed to the village. Five minutes to spare, but where was the bus stop? Sue enquired as to the location of the stop, in her best Italian, of a couple lurking as if in a bus catching stance.

"Inglese!" they responded, not understanding a word. That was how we met Peter and Vanessa, who assured us that Gillian's walk number 9 was excellent, and that when they last did it two years ago the bus stopped here. It didn't. The driver, obviously not an Italian (who would surely have stopped), drove past the large stopping area, pointing back down the street to where the bus stop must be.

After much cursing, a plan was hatched. Instead of waiting for the 11.12 bus, the four of us would go to the top of the pass in Vanessa and Peter's car, walk down the planned route, then return in our car later.

It worked. Peter donned his Stirling Moss helmet and we beat the bus to the 2757 metre pass, with only an occasional whimper from Vanessa. Nice driving, Peter, I think you always wanted to do that!

Gillian will be pleased to know that her route description has stood the test of time pretty well.

After passing Rifugio Garibaldi, shortly after starting the walk, there was a tempting path up to the 3026 metre summit of Rötlspitze, but the consensus was to give that a miss, despite the good weather, though it was a bit cloudy and cool at the time, with rain visible to the north.

So we continued on amiably, in the company of 'heard but not seen' marmots and a sprinkling of tourists, along #20. There was just a little snow to contend with - probably a lot less than a week ago! Vanessa was not impressed, but in the event she skipped happily across the soggy obstacles in her brand new PINK Karrimor boots. What would Mike P think of that, I wondered?

Some fine views back to the pass (pictured) were marred only by a little cloud on the tops and overhead.

Furklehütte was reached, conveniently, at about 1pm, after three hours of gentle downhill traversing past a wide range of high mountain flora, dominated in the upper reaches by Glacier Crowfoot and descending past a range of Gentians, Orchids and Houseleeks, to name but a few.

After lunch at the hütte we entered woodland and ski pistes for the final steep descent to Trafoi and a welcome brew at the campsite, before returning up 46 'tournantes' from the campsite to rescue Vanessa's car.

Our new friends then deserted us in favour of their sumptuous hotel in Solda with never ending supplies of food, leaving us to purchase supper from the campsite store. We spent €6; it was delicious.

It's cooler and clearer tonight after another fine, warm day. 'Warm' rather than 'Hot' up here at 1500 metres. We are being entertained by Nutcrackers in the fir trees.

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A Trip to Parco dello Stelvio

We slept well again at the Azzurro campsite, which considering its lakeside location was surprisingly free from insects of either the flying or the crawling variety. The weekenders having returned home - this morning many pitches were occupied by caravans and tents (usually both) with shutters and awnings drawn until next Friday, when their owners will no doubt return from the city - the place was quiet. Just a few retired folk remain, and a few Dutch and German tourists - the poor minority who can't afford to rent villas!.

Another storm, around midnight, lit the sky and cleared the air, forcing us to close our doors and encouraging a slow start after allowing the sun to dry off the tent - we never know when next it'll be used.

The short drive to Riva, a pretty town at the head of Lago di Garda, saw us back in sticky 35C heat. That didn't really spoil our visit, as we gently wandered around, in the knowledge that we would be returning here on a less sultry occasion, if not on this trip.

Today's picture was taken from the top of Riva's Torre Apponale, a C13 tower with fine views over the hazy lake, and across colourful rooftops to enticing mountains.

After a delightful alfresco lunch in an arboretum in nearby Arco, we commenced phase three of this holiday (phase 1 = cities, phase 2 = Lago di Garda area) and headed through those mountains, up to the Stelvio National Park, where we are camped (yes, we decided to use the tent) in a delightful spot just outside the village of Trafoi. We are up at about 1550 metres where the air is cooler. Long trousers and fleeces may come out later, and sleeping bags will be used in anger for the first time this trip.

The campsite is far enough from the main road for the bird song to happily drown out any roaring of combustion engines as cars and bikes start their 1200 metre ascent to the top of the Stelvio Pass, which, if my memory serves me, featured in a 'Top Gear' escapade.

There are lots of nutcrackers, but I can't work out what is singing so tunefully - larks or maybe just blackbirds. It's lovely.

We are pleased to hear that Dot is enjoying our broadcasts and that they are bringing back happy memories to that particular well travelled member of our audience.

However, we know most readers won't have visited this part of the world. It's a fine area, even in a heat wave.

Jamie - you should come if you haven't been before! You could get someone to deputise for you at the Altrincham Festival, just like we did. Thanks for that go to 'Stay At Home Hazel With The Huge Wallet' - we are sure she did us proud at the Festival whilst her crazy husband was bagging 11 Munros in a weekend. So that's the South Glen Shiel Ridge done then?

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A Walk in the Woods

The noise from last night's Saturday night disco at Pieve di Ledro was most effectively drowned (if you'll excuse the pun) by the torrential rain that arrived shortly after we had enjoyed our picnic by Lago di Ledro under darkening skies. The rain followed a fine display of sheet lightning, and 'around sound' thunder that would have done Ginger Baker proud.

Suffice to say - we slept well in the TN Hyperspace, which is without doubt the smallest tent on the site.

Our day started as always on this trip. Slowly. This is a leisurely break, with the health of Sue's neck a primary concern. The neck has been a bit better of late, and setbacks aren't welcome, hence the short walks and frequent B&B accommodation.

We finally set off at 10.30, flower guide in hand, under another clear blue sky, up the steep surfaced track to San Martino chapel. It was hot again. Some mountain bikers ground slowly past, traveling only marginally faster than us. A few other hikers passed by as we sat in the roadway feverishly trying to identify different Broomrapes and Orchids. Succulent strawberries (Sue says ours are nicer than yours, Mark!) lined our route, giving rise to further delay.

Eventually, long after joining a delightful woodland path (#456), the chapel appeared, on a small promontory. Unusually, it was a bit unkempt and decrepit - hopefully a bit of TLC will soon sort it out though.

The following wooded belvedere along #456 at around 1300 metres was an absolute delight. Reasonably not too hot (cool it was not) above steep drops through the woods, with occasional views to Lago di Ledro and Lago di Garda in the distance. Still hazy, but last night's rain had certainly cleared the air a little.

The path was being used by brave mountain bikers. We stepped aside and were always thanked for our trouble. Cyclists and walkers coexist quite happily on these paths.

Sue saw a large adder - it probably wouldn't appreciate being run over by a mountain bike.

An eagle soared high (very high) above us.

We enjoyed the welcome shade afforded by the trees.

By and by we reached Malga Giu, a junction from where we could have continued to Tremalzo in a couple of hours. But we headed down #419 and then took a side track to the Santa Anna chapel, which has recently been lovingly restored as a shrine to Paolo Arnoldi (5 June 1990 - 26 September 2009). Very sad.

After that we thought it would be downhill all the way. It was down Val Scaglia. Landslides appear to have terrorized this valley since the 1930s, and much pride has been taken in recent, not inconsiderable, efforts to stabilize the area. They seem to be working.

After the steep, gravelly descent of Val Scaglia, during which we met a man hiking in just swimming trunks and trail shoes (we are in a heat wave, after all) the gentle tarmac of Pian di Pur was most welcome. Sunday afternoon picnics and barbecues were in full swing.

The 100 metre ascent up what we expected to be a lakeside road was less welcome, and by the time we reached camp at 6pm we'd clocked up 14km and about 900 metres ascent in around 7.5 hours, including many 'flower stops'.

We carry no food stocks - subject to one notable exception our itinerary and catering is never planned more than a couple of hours ahead. So whilst I brewed up, Sue went off to buy dinner. She soon returned. The supermarket that had been open last night and this morning was shut. It's Sunday.

The pizzas at Pizzeria Al Lago were excellent...

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A Peak and a Pass

After a comfy night, a filling breakfast, and another stroll around the interesting medieval town with huge slabs of Bagoss cheese on display, we headed on towards Lago di Ledro, which at 650 metres held hope for an acceptably not too hot night in the tent.

Bagolino is not a tourist hot spot. It doesn't feature in the Rough Guide to Italy. Perhaps we should attribute this to the richness of Italy's heritage rather than the inadequacy of the Rough Guide. There was one other guest at our hotel; the other hotel looked empty, but the place was vibrant with people going about their daily business. Just the sort of town it's nice to visit.

Our route took us back down to Lago d'Idro then up the Valle d'Ampola. A right turn led steeply up past hordes of road and (mainly) mountain bikers to a car park at 1690 metres a little beyond the small settlement of Tremalzo.

It was hot, but not unbearable. A stroll of little more than 1km took us to the 1973 metre summit of Monte Tremalzo, past meadows lush with orchids and a plethora of other Alpine species, many different from yesterday's sightings due to the higher elevation.

One particular plant had us puzzled - a small white 'orchid' or so we thought. We encountered just two people on the walk - and they chose this moment to pass by - a Gertalian couple armed with a weighty tome - 'Flora Helvetica'. They repeated Gillian's explanation about some of this area, dominated by Monte Baldo, having been above the glaciers in the last ice age, as a result of which some ancient species survived that period. One of those species is 'Monte Baldo - Segge' or Monte Baldo Sedge (Charetsch baldens), a grass rather than an orchid. Very pretty! Not in our reference book.

Having gained a peak, albeit with limited views due to the ever present heat haze, we returned the same way, enjoyed a lunch break during which a serenading acrobatic lark entertained us from the top of a tree, and then wandered 1.5km in the other direction to Passo del Dil, for more hazy views.

Our stats for the day: 5km, 500 metres ascent, 3 hours. Very relaxing for us, but not for the mountain bikers, who were slogging relentlessly upwards and on into the mountains. I can't say I wasn't jealous though!

Down at the acceptably warm but not too hot 'Camping Azzurro' by Lago di Ledro (back amongst lots of tourists) Sue heard English voices in the supermarket, but as I type those voices are silent. Surprised Germans sit bemused in their TV equipped motor homes and Italian children gasp "non è possibile" as Germany quash Argentina in the football World Cup.

We will enjoy a beer - 'happy hour' has just commenced - before heading to the lake shore for an alfresco dinner - salad, I suspect.

Today's image shows Sue in a typical pose with an orchid - scrutiny of the flower book will take place later, but don't expect a long list like yesterday's. We are saving that, in a different format, for when we next see Gillian.

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Hazy Mountains and a Floral Bonanza

Readers may have noticed the glut of strawberries and today's floral delights. We have enjoyed a day in the mountains, which have been engulfed in a heat haze that gives rise to occasional claps of thunder but no rain. Yet!

It was a sweaty day even up high, but judging by incoming messages it's 'orange code alarm' in Venice(does that mean risk of imminent spontaneous combustion?), and somewhat breezy in Durness (so Orkney will be blown just a little further off-shore?). We are glad we aren't there. In fact the hot weather is topping the news bulletins here, so it must be an issue.

Nevertheless, most tourists seem to have stayed low. We saw none on our five hour stroll, and there were no other tourists either at last night's rifugio or at tonight's hotel. In fact, the medieval town of Bagolino, where we are billeted in the comfortable Al Tempo Perduto hotel, appears to be a tourist free zone. We have seen a few of the ubiquitous German bikers on the way here, but that's all by way of tourists.

This morning Marisa provided an excellent breakfast that more or less eliminated the need for lunch (a few muesli bars were sufficient), and we set off on our five hour jaunt, mainly through shady woodland.

Our 13 km route (with about 700 metres ascent) passed through the pretty villages of Moerna (pictured), Turano and Armo before heading along a perfectly formed woodland track to Ponte Franato and then traversing back to Persone. It was similar in topography to the final stages of Alta Via 2, so far as I can recall that trip from the depths of my memory bank.

We had hoped for lunch in the restaurant at Armo, but it was closed, so we made do with ice creams back at Persone, where we disturbed Marisa from her siesta. Earlier she had charged us just €81 for B&B, evening meal and drinks, etc, which we considered most reasonable.

It was hot; though the flowers weren't wilting the crows were cawing and the buzzards were mewing. Blackbirds were rummaging in the undergrowth, lizards were basking, and I think I saw a shrike atop a post in Moerna.

We had planned to camp by Lago d'Idro, at around 300 metres, but by the time the deserted switchback road had delivered us to that pleasant location we had re-entered a zone of stifling heat in the low 30's. So we abandoned that plan and came up to this small town at around 700 metres. It's still hot, but bearable.

There's a huge church high above the medieval houses and narrow, sometimes covered, streets, with the inevitable swifts swooping around it in their hundreds. I'm surprised there's an airborne insect left!

There appears to be an excellent selection of shops to cater for the needs of residents, including a horse butcher. The network of narrow cobbled streets passes at times under the houses.

Small cars are required by the residents of Bagolino!

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Devil's Claw (Physoplexis comosa)

On today's stroll from Persone, we hardly expected to find such superb specimens of this iconic flower, on a random slab of rock in the woods at around 1100 metres.

We usually see it much higher, on Dolomitic limestone. Today's walk was mainly in woodland, in the 600 to 1100 metre range. The plant life was wonderful, with the following species also in evidence, even to our untrained eyes:

Corn Cockle (or was it a Cranesbill or Storksbill?)
Bladder Campion
Red Campion
Fringed Pink
Buttercups (various)
Common Columbine
Yellow Corydalis
Common Poppy
Biting Stonecrop
Bramble
Goatsbeard Spirea
Field Rose
Dog Rose
Golden Cinquefoil
Wild Strawberry
Vetches and Clovers (various)
Birdsfoot Trefoil
Meadow Cranesbill
Herb Robert
Cypress Spurge
Common Rockrose
Violets and Pansies (various)
Great Masterwort
Numerous unidentified Umbellifers
Sowbread (Cyclamen - in large quantities)
Viper's Bugloss
Field Forget-me-not (Myosotis ramosissima var.)
Various Labiates including Meadow Clary, Ground Ivy and Dragonmouth
Dark Mullein
Common Cow-wheat
Common Eyebright
Yellow Rattle
Broomrape (unidentified variety)
Common Honeysuckle
Black Rampion
Spreading Bellflower
Creeping Bellflower
Harebell
Fairy's Thimble
Wood Scabious
Ox-eye Daisy
Leopardsbane (? variety)
Thistles and Knapweeds (various)
Orange Lily (lots)
Various orchids - to be listed later
Common Nettle!
Greater Stitchwort
Several Bedstraws
Several Plantains

This list is neither exhaustive nor probably correct, it's just a list of the obvious species that we think we noticed as we passed by.

Quite enough for now!

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Yummy!

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Run From The Sun

It's 6.30pm and I've just accidentally deleted the posting I started at 5.30. I'm sure most bloggers experience that sinking feeling from time to time.

Anyway, we've headed away from the mid 30's of Lago di Garda, into the mountains where there is no phone signal but the thermometer is sitting comfortably in the low 20's C.

We started the day at the characterful campsite in Verona, where we had avoided the plague of ants suffered by some of our compatriots (from Timperley - it's a small world!), and we hadn't noticed the rat in the vine trellis above the tents.

We managed to bumble our way through the atrocious Italian traffic with its atrociously poor drivers, to the small town of Sirmione which occupies a 4km promontory of land that juts out from the southern shore of Lago di Garda.

Some had advised us to steer clear of this tourist hot spot, others had highly recommended a visit. We accepted the latter advice, ignored the 'tat', and enjoyed visits to the two main attractions.

The Scaligeran fortress at the entrance to the town dates from around 1277. It's in good condition despite having had a colourful life. Today's 'invaders' were hundreds of screeching swifts, using gaps in the structure for their nests. The first picture shows the view from the main tower.

The Roman Villa at the head of the promontory is a much more impressive structure, though not as well preserved as the fortress. Constructed over a 200 year period between the first centuries BC and AD, it occupies an area of 167 x 105 metres. Meticulous restoration, and an informative museum, are of a very high standard, with useful information boards telling you exactly where you are and what the villa may have looked like in its heyday.

Some of the remains of the villa are pictured below.

But it was hot; a cool breeze was needed.

That's why, after lunching in the shade by the ancient San Pietro church, we headed in increasingly sweaty gloom with great booms of thunder, up the mountainside from the picturesque village of Gargnano, in a bid to escape from the heat and humidity.

It worked. Turano, our first port of call, had a bank, post office, alimentari, town hall and church, but exhibited no evidence of either inhabitants or places of rest for overheated wayfarers.

So we moved on to the smaller village of Persone, which makes a point of welcoming strangers despite having none of the above facilities except a church. But it did have two old men on a bench who helpfully directed us to a bar. (Maybe they were called Alan and Phil!) Literally 20 seconds later we were installed in a brand new double room with a working shaver light in Rifugio Monte Cingla, which is part of the Antica Osteria Pace restaurant - and the bar to which we were directed. We are up at 900 metres here, so it's pleasantly cool.

Later...

The restaurant has no menu - it's a Posto Tappa sort of place but we are B&B, not half board, so have no idea how much our meal has just cost. We suspect it will be good value. For the first time this trip we have not been asked for passports - everything is on trust. Home made ravioli followed by pork (wild boar?) cutlets and salad, etc, has been washed down with some excellent house wine.

A wander around the small village, cool after some rain, has revealed a very pleasant and scenic place, it's one of a number of 'small but perfectly formed' villages in the Upper Garda Bresciano Park, which was only formed in 1989.

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