Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Wednesday 26 June 2013

Wednesday 26 June 2013 - Pyrenees GR10 - Day 12 - Stage 9 - Logibar to Pont d'Enfer (staying in Montory)

Distance: 19 km (Cum: 177 km)     

Ascent: 1120 metres (Cum: 8980 metres)
                     
Time taken: 6.75 hrs including 1 hr stops                                     

Weather: dark and cool under a leaden sky - cloud base 1200 to 1400 metres

The forecast 'blue sky' day didn't transpire. 

I've been busy with 'stuff' so here's a dictated version of Sue's diary entry:

Another day without waterproofs, but a cool 12 degrees at the high point, and the thick blanket of cloud lingers. Shorts all day but fleeces on and off. It had been a promising forecast, but we woke to cloud with faint blue patches. 

Packed before breakfast, so got away at 8.15, after trying to keep our belongings separate from those of François who had arrived at 6.50 pm last night, and had the fourth bunk in our room.   From Logibar, a circular walk of the Holzarté gorge can be done, and this was the path now followed by GR10.  The river was close by at the start, a torrent of steely blue water.

Flowers were also good, growing on the limestone crags.  An open section led to a superb suspension bridge, built by Italians over the woods and river a long way below. 

The track climbed gently and was wet and dark in places. Long slugs were the most prolific wildlife. Stuart, who we'd walked with up to the bridge, soon motored off.  At the top of the gorge the path did a switchback over a small bridge, then traversed an open hillside where my (Sue's) camera battery was further drained by the Rampion, Fragrant Orchids, Broomrape, etc. 

After a particularly wet section we climbed again before meeting the other path at Plateau d'Ardakhotchia. The cold wind prevented a stop there, but a little further up the hill we had half an hour in the lee of the wind.  Here we received an email from Bareges, to be referred to in a separate posting.  

From our vantage spot we watched Gilles climb up to us, then we all watched over twenty vultures wheeling about the sky - below there must have been some prey. 

The path continued to climb, then joined a track that, again, contoured around the hillside.  

(Sue is pictured here. )

The rocky wall next to the track was covered in flowers, notably a few dark pink orchids, a clump of Trumpet Gentians, Butterwort,  and Birds-eye Primrose.  We got a 'fly past' from vultures just above.

After passing some farm buildings, the path again climbed, past a clump of trees under which much Round-leaved Saxifrage was growing, then up to today's high point, Col d'Anhaou, at 1383 metres. 

Lunch was eaten just down the road - there was a good view, apart from it being cool, and blanketed in cloud!  (Really!  -Ed)

Much of the descent was on small roads and tracks, but grassy shortcuts were available.  There were also some sunken green lanes leading down, one coming out at an attractive gite, with several more immaculate gites in the vicinity. 

The 'pont' at Pont d'Enfer took us over a very blue river and up a steep lane to meet the road. Due to the GR10 gite at Ste-Engrâce (only 55 minutes walk onwards) being full, we had booked the Auberge de l'Étable at Montory, about 12 miles away by road. 

Our spirits rose as we saw a car park for the Kakuetta Gorge.  Our intention was to hitch, and a couple who were just returning to their car were duly accosted and agreed to take us as far as the road junction to Logibar as they were staying in St-Jean.  Luckily a second car stopped almost immediately. A couple from Paris with their grown up daughter.  They were staying on t coast but kindly went out of their way to deliver us to Montory village.  Aren't people kind.

Remarkably, after stopping walking at 3 pm we arrived in this small village at 3.30.  Being next to the shop, provisions were stocked up, and then we checked in to this Logis establishment.  Fortunately, the proprietor, Michel, speaks English so hopefully we can find a solution to the problem of getting back to today's finish point. As usual the washing is done. Now it's time for a beer.  (Pictured)

That's five minutes dictating and an hour editing!

Later: it's pleasantly warm down in the foothills in this pleasant village, and we've enjoyed an excellent meal.

That's all - I've had enough and I expect you have too.

Sent from our GR10 trip - see here for our itinerary

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