Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 27 - Saturday 21 August 2004 - Stage 22
Postcard Summary
Barking
dog camp to Lac des IsclotsPostcard Summary
Back to a typical day in beautiful but
cool weather – 9.5 hours, 18 km, 1500m ascent
An early start from camp, where our
alarms were pre-empted by the barking dogs, then a long, cool haul up to a high
pass, down for a nice lunch, then around a high and exposed (but wide)
contouring path. Eventually arrived at
Lac de Caillaoues, before the final ascent to a beautiful spot by the lower Lac
Des Isclots to camp. A lovely evening.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
Luxuriating in
the tent at Lac Des Isclots - 2398 metres - in late sunshine with wisps of
cloud blowing across the lake, a full stomach and plenty to drink. What could
be better!
Today was a
typical HRP day - woke soon after 6 am to the sound of barking dogs (not
typical) and dozed until the second alarm at 7 am. A poor breakfast - an error
not to buy muesli - fruit and fibre cereal is a poor substitute, especially with
only water to wash it down.
Still, it was a
nice day, if cold, and we set off in fleeces and long trousers (except Julie)
at 8.10. 8°C. Lots of geological interest ahead to the east, with crumpled rock
strata in evidence (the Posets?). We soon passed the Viados hut (8.30), and I
stopped to change into shorts and t-shirt at 9 am, at 1800 metres, to avoid
overheating, then felt cool - it was only 7°C.
Eventually by 10
am, we had reached the junction of three streams, where GR11 heads off east to Estos,
and we head north. We moved back into the sun here, after being in the shade -
2010 metres, 11°C. Very pleasant. So we headed up, as directed by our two
guidebooks, to Port d'Aygues-Tortes (2669 metres).
View from Port d'Aygues-Tortes
Despite it being
a Saturday, we saw very few people today, especially on the Spanish side
(before the Port). Two people dashed past us descending into Spain cairns
Lunch below Port d'Aygues-Tortes
We ate well
today - the usual two tins of various fish (roe, and mackerel in mustard sauce
today) on a baguette, skilfully carried by Sue, with copious 'mountain mix' and
chocolate.
After lunch we
descended to about 2050 metres, then headed up a well marked path to Pouchergues
before in an easy track around Pic de Quartau, high above the Clarabide valley and
the huge power station at La Soula.
It suddenly
warmed up along this path, after being a really cold day until then. Cloud invaded
our views from the French side, and the mountains were shrouded in it for a few
hours, before, by now (8.15 pm) clearing completely, leaving a wide open view
with a little high cloud and a crescent moon visible from our tent door.
We progressed
around the track, exposed at times, with the occasional bit of railway line,
and some metal walkways. At one point we even seemed to pass through a house. Eventually
we reached the main path from La Soula and followed it up to Lac Caillauas, a
large reservoir, eerie in the mist. Julie caught up by going across the dam (Sue
and I missed the path). An interesting rocky route in the mist then took us up
to the lower Lac Des Isclots ('lake of little islands') by 5.35 (Julie a bit
later). 2398 metres, 18°C, 768mb.
Others were
camping, but we found a good spot and had a relaxing few hours and a good meal
before ordering hot chocolate from Julie (now 8.30) once our diaries had been
updated.
Camp at Lac des Isclots (2400 metres)
Julie's feet are
feeling a bit (very sore earlier) better - it was a hard day for her but she
did (just about) keep up! (After a reassessment of her luggage in Bielsa.)*
* I
was wondering whether there would be reference to this. Upset at finding my
Phreerunner tent relegated to the outside of Julie's rucksack, I had insisted
that she dispose of sufficient items to enable the tent to travel inside
her rucksack. Thus several pots and pans and other unnecessary equipment had
been binned in Bielsa... - Ed
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
18
km, 1500 metres ascent, 9.5 hours
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