Date: Friday 17 May 2019
Route: wild camp at 450 metres at NN 802 431 to Strathtay (Dundarave B&B - NN 913 535)
Distance: 19 km (Cum: 176)
Ascent: 150 metres (Cum: 6150)
Time taken: 6.7 hrs including 1.6 hrs breaks
Weather: rain showers then gradually improving to a beautiful summer's day
We woke to the strange sound of the pitter patter of rain on the tent. A soothing change from the shrieks of oyster catchers and the alarm calls and night time conversations of the grouse. Otherwise, the lapwings and the skylarks had provided a more serene lullaby for our good night's sleep in this superb location.
We lay in until the rain stopped, so we didn't leave camp until 9.30, heading east along a stony Land Rover track. We had come this way rather than follow the Rob Roy Way (RRW) route from Tombuie Cottage, mainly to benefit from our excellent camping position. If no campsite is required (or you know a suitable spot), the RRW route may be a more scenic way of reaching Aberfeldy from Kenmore. There's also a riverside path.
We walked with our fleeces on in the cool easterly breeze, under light cloud with sunny periods. After an hour or so we came across a green shooting cabin that Graeme had mentioned. We couldn't resist installing ourselves there for half an hour or so, enjoying a brew whilst watching swallows struggling to build a nest under the eaves. A pied wagtail looked on at their antics. This would be a good spot to camp.
Hereabouts a wind farm and pylons have recently been blotted into the landscape, but the old Land Rover track remains as it was, and the intrusions can be largely ignored.
There were nice views down towards Aberfeldy as we progressed past lapwings and curlew towards Urlar Farm, where walkers are directed around the perimeter of the farm, beside a barbed wire fence.
A short stretch of tarmac led to a right turn along a path with a RRW waymark. Aberfeldy is signed the other way along the road; the RRW route took us through the Birks of Aberfeldy, a stunning path down to the town past waterfalls in a valley currently bursting with wild garlic.
We weren't alone on this justifiably popular path. After admiring the Welsh poppies and wood anemones that had crept into any small spaces left by the banks of bluebells, we came across a sculpture of Robbie Burns, no doubt admiring the waterfalls and the forebears of today's plants.
Lunch in the Watermill café in Aberfeldy had been recommended. We weren't disappointed. The huge baguettes of fresh bread, and tasty salad accompaniments, were delicious. A large group of cyclists turned up and were greeted with smiles despite bringing a brief chaos to the place. Bikes everywhere, when they could have been left outside, but nobody objected and the staff dealt with everyone in the manner you would expect from somewhere with a high reputation that they are striving to maintain.
The riverside path to Grandtully is an absolute delight. From the river bank beyond the Dewars distillery, onto a disused railway line, this 7 km pathway provides a feast to the eyes with its riverside vistas and its flower laden verges. Apart from the usual banks of bluebells etc, here there is lots of pink purslane, (cow?) parsley, white dead nettle, wild strawberry, water avens, meadow cranesbill, red campion, garlic mustard, and more that I can't identify.
Eventually, after turning left at a campsite, you emerge into JD's dreamworld. A chocolate factory! Here we enjoyed a 'velvet' chocolate. Basically a tub of delicious melted chocolate. Sadly there was no phone signal so we had to wait until we reached our B&B - Dundarave in nearby Strathtay - before making our gloating call to John on 'Control' in Montrose. He got his own back by telling us it will rain tomorrow.
Crossing the river to Strathtay, we noticed that the water level is so low that anyone wanting to tackle the canoe slalom course should go equipped with their rock climbing gear.
Later: a lovely meal at the Inn on the Tay, opposite the chocolate factory.
Today's pictures:
One of many waterfalls in the Birks of Aberfeldy
Sue receives an audience with Robbie Burns
Lunch at the Watermill café
In the green corridor to Grandtully
Next Day
Previous Day
Index
Route: wild camp at 450 metres at NN 802 431 to Strathtay (Dundarave B&B - NN 913 535)
Distance: 19 km (Cum: 176)
Ascent: 150 metres (Cum: 6150)
Time taken: 6.7 hrs including 1.6 hrs breaks
Weather: rain showers then gradually improving to a beautiful summer's day
We woke to the strange sound of the pitter patter of rain on the tent. A soothing change from the shrieks of oyster catchers and the alarm calls and night time conversations of the grouse. Otherwise, the lapwings and the skylarks had provided a more serene lullaby for our good night's sleep in this superb location.
We lay in until the rain stopped, so we didn't leave camp until 9.30, heading east along a stony Land Rover track. We had come this way rather than follow the Rob Roy Way (RRW) route from Tombuie Cottage, mainly to benefit from our excellent camping position. If no campsite is required (or you know a suitable spot), the RRW route may be a more scenic way of reaching Aberfeldy from Kenmore. There's also a riverside path.
We walked with our fleeces on in the cool easterly breeze, under light cloud with sunny periods. After an hour or so we came across a green shooting cabin that Graeme had mentioned. We couldn't resist installing ourselves there for half an hour or so, enjoying a brew whilst watching swallows struggling to build a nest under the eaves. A pied wagtail looked on at their antics. This would be a good spot to camp.
Hereabouts a wind farm and pylons have recently been blotted into the landscape, but the old Land Rover track remains as it was, and the intrusions can be largely ignored.
There were nice views down towards Aberfeldy as we progressed past lapwings and curlew towards Urlar Farm, where walkers are directed around the perimeter of the farm, beside a barbed wire fence.
A short stretch of tarmac led to a right turn along a path with a RRW waymark. Aberfeldy is signed the other way along the road; the RRW route took us through the Birks of Aberfeldy, a stunning path down to the town past waterfalls in a valley currently bursting with wild garlic.
We weren't alone on this justifiably popular path. After admiring the Welsh poppies and wood anemones that had crept into any small spaces left by the banks of bluebells, we came across a sculpture of Robbie Burns, no doubt admiring the waterfalls and the forebears of today's plants.
Lunch in the Watermill café in Aberfeldy had been recommended. We weren't disappointed. The huge baguettes of fresh bread, and tasty salad accompaniments, were delicious. A large group of cyclists turned up and were greeted with smiles despite bringing a brief chaos to the place. Bikes everywhere, when they could have been left outside, but nobody objected and the staff dealt with everyone in the manner you would expect from somewhere with a high reputation that they are striving to maintain.
The riverside path to Grandtully is an absolute delight. From the river bank beyond the Dewars distillery, onto a disused railway line, this 7 km pathway provides a feast to the eyes with its riverside vistas and its flower laden verges. Apart from the usual banks of bluebells etc, here there is lots of pink purslane, (cow?) parsley, white dead nettle, wild strawberry, water avens, meadow cranesbill, red campion, garlic mustard, and more that I can't identify.
Eventually, after turning left at a campsite, you emerge into JD's dreamworld. A chocolate factory! Here we enjoyed a 'velvet' chocolate. Basically a tub of delicious melted chocolate. Sadly there was no phone signal so we had to wait until we reached our B&B - Dundarave in nearby Strathtay - before making our gloating call to John on 'Control' in Montrose. He got his own back by telling us it will rain tomorrow.
Crossing the river to Strathtay, we noticed that the water level is so low that anyone wanting to tackle the canoe slalom course should go equipped with their rock climbing gear.
Later: a lovely meal at the Inn on the Tay, opposite the chocolate factory.
Today's pictures:
One of many waterfalls in the Birks of Aberfeldy
Sue receives an audience with Robbie Burns
Lunch at the Watermill café
In the green corridor to Grandtully
Next Day
Previous Day
Index
6 comments:
Every time I pass that chocolate shop, I daren’t stop! Was determined last month to do that, then couldn’t park as there was a slalom competition happening. Next time (October) definitely doing it. Following your route avidly - looks great. Ali xxx
It's a lovely place, Ali, but you may need a fat wallet!
Those Jonahs you meet along the way that predict your stopping place will be fully booked, or the path ahead is difficult, or as in your case the weather is about to engulf you, and now you've got one on the end of the phone, albeit I guess a guy with some authority.
Glad you enjoyed the Watermill Café. We must have been unlucky a couple of years ago when we had coffee (poor) and cake (dry).
A bit of rain now to send you on your way, though I doubt that will dampen your enjoyment of the trip.
Sorry, pasted the wrong words - will delete them later. The 'Jonah' is actually a well known mountain guru, Conrad, and a good friend of ours...
Today's rain is gentle and soothing....
Good cafe at Ballinluig.
Looks like you have a beautiful crossing again. Nice it see a reminder of the Birks of Aberfeldy - a favorite walk when I lived in that part of the world. Meanwhile DAV is posting avalanche warnings in the Alps, where it snowed again only a few days ago.
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