Date: Monday 13 May 2019
Route: Bridge of Orchy to Coire Fhiuran (NN 402 449, 700 metres) with excursion to Creag Mhor at NN 404 458
Distance: 15 km (Cum: 79)
Ascent: 1100 metres (Cum: 3600)
Time taken: 8.25 hrs including 2 hrs breaks
Weather: sunny periods, southerly breeze, t-shirts
'Renton's Rest' - the name of our twin bedded room on Bridge of Orchy station, lived up to its name. When we finally emerged from our slumbers the occupants of the dormitory had already left or were deeply involved with their breakfasts. It had been a noisy night for all bar Richard, who was identified as a source of said noise.
We all felt the price paid (£40 each for the twin room, £30 each for the dormitory) could have included a bit of breakfast, but we weren't overly stingy with the honesty box when it came to paying for the bananas and muesli bars that amounted to said meal. Sue enjoyed some 'instant porridge', as well as a tot of Cotswold whisky, as Richard strove to reduce the weight of his rucksack.
Richard and Rosie got ready to set off briefly along the West Highland Way, which they would soon leave in favour of a track to Loch Lyon and Bridge of Balgie. Sue and Chris would be taking the same route.
Sue and I set off at 8.45 up the well worn but thankfully dry path to Coire an Dothaidh, a 600 metre climb to a col at 744 metres. It went remarkably well. Just a few spots of rain! and lots of lady's mantle. We reached the col, strewn with wood anemones, at 10.05. During this ascent my phone seemed to be in 'bleep mode'. Amongst a variety of messages were four that notified of the relocation of a cheese and wine party due to snow. Luckily we have not seen any snow, other than a few scraps, and our route passes nowhere near the location advertised.
Our original plan had been to turn left here and traverse several Munro summits, but I had decided that the 1600 metres of ascent that route involved would leave me uncomfortably tired.
So we headed down the coire to the east, with good views down to Loch Lyon, which looked rather empty. Although our own route was pathless, we didn't envy those slogging along the Glen Lyon tracks towards Bridge of Balgie.
Elevenses were taken on a contouring route on a steep hillside that caused one of Sue's feet to hurt even more than usual. Then we made our way around to Glen Cailliche and down that beautiful glen past a sheepfold and a dipper to reach Tigh nam Bodach for lunch. We dined with the Stone family who kindly permitted us to use their garden. I've written in detail about this place on previous occasions, so I won't go into any more detail about this ancient site just now.
More contouring took us towards our planned overnight stop near Sith Trom'aidh. There were fine camping spots here, but it was early. So we started into the Day 5 route, which will be very helpful tomorrow as it slightly shortens a long day.
We ascended easily up grassy slopes dominated by dog violets and lesser celandine to Coire Fhiuran, where there are many streams and a plethora of places to camp. It's new ground for both of us.
Having set up camp by 4 pm, we wandered off to ascend a 788 metre summit, Creag Mhor, with fine views. Two sightseeing ptarmigan were most reluctant to leave the summit. We hadn't seen anyone (apart from the Stone family) since leaving Bridge of Orchy, so it was something of a surprise to see two backpackers in close proximity in this remote spot. They turned out to be Neil and Jane, who are spending the summer walking to Shetland from Stoke. And back. I think they were equally surprised to see us.
The views over Rannoch Moor to Glencoe and beyond were superb. Very similar to what we would have seen on our planned route. The campsite is superb. A very comfy spot near a small waterfall. As I write, well after 8 pm, the sun still has quite a lot of life, though when it goes down the night will be cool. Having enjoyed another splendid wild camp banquet (just hot chocolate to come) we are ready for that.
Today's pictures:
Outside Renton's Rest
Wood anemone
Sue converses with the Stone family at Tigh nam Bodach
Camp in Coire Fhiuran
Next Day
Previous Day
Index
Route: Bridge of Orchy to Coire Fhiuran (NN 402 449, 700 metres) with excursion to Creag Mhor at NN 404 458
Distance: 15 km (Cum: 79)
Ascent: 1100 metres (Cum: 3600)
Time taken: 8.25 hrs including 2 hrs breaks
Weather: sunny periods, southerly breeze, t-shirts
'Renton's Rest' - the name of our twin bedded room on Bridge of Orchy station, lived up to its name. When we finally emerged from our slumbers the occupants of the dormitory had already left or were deeply involved with their breakfasts. It had been a noisy night for all bar Richard, who was identified as a source of said noise.
We all felt the price paid (£40 each for the twin room, £30 each for the dormitory) could have included a bit of breakfast, but we weren't overly stingy with the honesty box when it came to paying for the bananas and muesli bars that amounted to said meal. Sue enjoyed some 'instant porridge', as well as a tot of Cotswold whisky, as Richard strove to reduce the weight of his rucksack.
Richard and Rosie got ready to set off briefly along the West Highland Way, which they would soon leave in favour of a track to Loch Lyon and Bridge of Balgie. Sue and Chris would be taking the same route.
Sue and I set off at 8.45 up the well worn but thankfully dry path to Coire an Dothaidh, a 600 metre climb to a col at 744 metres. It went remarkably well. Just a few spots of rain! and lots of lady's mantle. We reached the col, strewn with wood anemones, at 10.05. During this ascent my phone seemed to be in 'bleep mode'. Amongst a variety of messages were four that notified of the relocation of a cheese and wine party due to snow. Luckily we have not seen any snow, other than a few scraps, and our route passes nowhere near the location advertised.
Our original plan had been to turn left here and traverse several Munro summits, but I had decided that the 1600 metres of ascent that route involved would leave me uncomfortably tired.
So we headed down the coire to the east, with good views down to Loch Lyon, which looked rather empty. Although our own route was pathless, we didn't envy those slogging along the Glen Lyon tracks towards Bridge of Balgie.
Elevenses were taken on a contouring route on a steep hillside that caused one of Sue's feet to hurt even more than usual. Then we made our way around to Glen Cailliche and down that beautiful glen past a sheepfold and a dipper to reach Tigh nam Bodach for lunch. We dined with the Stone family who kindly permitted us to use their garden. I've written in detail about this place on previous occasions, so I won't go into any more detail about this ancient site just now.
More contouring took us towards our planned overnight stop near Sith Trom'aidh. There were fine camping spots here, but it was early. So we started into the Day 5 route, which will be very helpful tomorrow as it slightly shortens a long day.
We ascended easily up grassy slopes dominated by dog violets and lesser celandine to Coire Fhiuran, where there are many streams and a plethora of places to camp. It's new ground for both of us.
Having set up camp by 4 pm, we wandered off to ascend a 788 metre summit, Creag Mhor, with fine views. Two sightseeing ptarmigan were most reluctant to leave the summit. We hadn't seen anyone (apart from the Stone family) since leaving Bridge of Orchy, so it was something of a surprise to see two backpackers in close proximity in this remote spot. They turned out to be Neil and Jane, who are spending the summer walking to Shetland from Stoke. And back. I think they were equally surprised to see us.
The views over Rannoch Moor to Glencoe and beyond were superb. Very similar to what we would have seen on our planned route. The campsite is superb. A very comfy spot near a small waterfall. As I write, well after 8 pm, the sun still has quite a lot of life, though when it goes down the night will be cool. Having enjoyed another splendid wild camp banquet (just hot chocolate to come) we are ready for that.
Today's pictures:
Outside Renton's Rest
Wood anemone
Sue converses with the Stone family at Tigh nam Bodach
Camp in Coire Fhiuran
Next Day
Previous Day
Index
2 comments:
Loving it! Having a late breakfast in Kinloch Rannoch as we speak after a v early start from Bridge of Balgie. As in:
Balgie met The Bear
The Bear met Balgie
The Bear was Bulgy
The Bulge was Balgie
Brilliant HMP3. Don't eat all the cake - we will need some tomorrow!
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