Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 25 - Thursday 19 August 2004 - Stage 20
Postcard Summary
Barroude
to Bielsa
Nice morning going downhill, then a rainy
road – 6.25 hours, 17 km, 300m ascent
The sun rose beautifully red against the
great wall of Barroude this morning….shepherd’s warning! There were still gales after a windy night. Just as well our plan was for an easy walk
down to Bielsa. We arrived in a storm at
2.30, after a nice walk until lunchtime.
For the second time in three days we had to spread solid butter onto
solid baguettes softened only by the driving rain (and of course the mackerel
in mustard sauce). Then the walk along
the road to Bielsa was especially horrid when we went through a dark
tunnel. At least it wasn’t raining
there. Then Sue did a superb job by
finding the last available room in Bielsa.
Our room for three resembles a laundry but doesn’t smell so nice! But it’s now picture postcard clear outside,
and we are hoping for some sun tomorrow.
Diary Entry (by Martin)
The tent withstood the night's buffeting,
which continued during breakfast. Opening the tent brought the unexpected view
of the wall of Barroude lit deep red by the rising sun. A most impressive
sunrise, but it soon passed and was replaced by a grey, overcast day.
We had aimed to be away by 8.30, but were
ready to go by 8.15 and climbed quickly to the Port de Barroude (2535 metres)
from our camp at 2370 metres.
Looking back to the Wall of Barroude and the Refuge de Barroude
Julie then started the descent to Bielsa whilst Sue and I found suitable places for ablutions. The wind made burning the toilet paper very difficult.
We spotted deer on the port, and izards on the Spanish side. The path descended pleasantly, and the weather held good. A brew up at 2000 metres succeeded after the first pan of water fell over. We had just enough left for Sue and me to enjoy hot brews. Julie doesn't do brew stops.
Soon afterwards we met some Spanish day walkers bumbling about, not sure where they were or where they were going. I asked to see their map so that I could help. They didn't have one. I told them to go back down and get proper equipment. Sue was more polite! And so, we headed on down, finally by a pleasant track through woods with huge flat mushrooms and some chunky yellow mushrooms looking enticingly edible, to the end of the track, which then joins a main road.
At the end of the track was a notice sternly requiring walkers to be properly equipped - that made me feel much better about being rude to the Spaniards.
At 12 noon it was just too early for lunch despite being a pleasant spot. So we headed off down the A138 towards Parzan
and Bielsa. It soon started to rain, and waterproofs were donned for the second
time today. I swapped my recently donned trainers (used for road walking) back
to boots. The rain intensified, but just before Parzan it eased and we
stopped for lunch in the rain. For the second time in three days I found myself
spreading solid butter onto solid baguettes, in rain, with fish roe and
mackerel in mustard sauce to spread on them. Quite tasty actually, and much
nicer than the effort on the way to Héas, which was horribly cold and more
torrential.
Soon afterwards we splashed our way to a
welcomingly dry tunnel. But the footpath here was very narrow and the traffic
and fumes were horrid. It got dark and the pace slowed. None of us wanted to
trip off the kerb into the path of a juggernaut. Eventually the light
reappeared and we emerged into even more torrential rain, finally leaving the
main road to negotiate a 'river' road into Bielsa village. Deluge. Julie and I
sheltered in the very spacious church porch whilst Sue spent half an hour
finding the last room in Bielsa.
Brilliant.
And so.... washed and clean we restocked
for three days then adjourned to La Tarrazeta for an excellent meal. A late
night - after 10 pm. Bielsa - nice little holiday village.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
18
km, 300 metres ascent, 6.25 hours
2 comments:
I probably wouldn't eat fish roe and mackrel in mustard sauce art home, but out in the hills, especially in inclement weather anything goes.
My Day 25 records that at one point, three hours from our start we were only three kilometres IN A STRAIGHT LINE from our start.
Yes Conrad, but you were 1136 metres above your starting point after those 3 km!
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