Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 48 - Saturday 11 September 2004 - Stage 39
Postcard Summary (on yesterday's card)
River
camp to Refugi d’Ull de Ter
A fine ridge walk – like the Lake District , but in metres not feet – 7.0 hours, 16 km,
1200m ascent
We reluctantly left the nice wild
campsite – possibly our last this trip, and had a short, sunny, windy day in
high mountains that reminded us of the Lake District .
Lots of people about – mainly day walkers.
Tonight we have our first experience of a Spanish Refuge. We arrived here at 3.15, but they don’t serve
food until 8.00. Luckily we had a very
lavish lunch, thanks to the supermarket we visited yesterday.
Diary Entry (by Sue)
Both had a good
night's sleep despite being so close to the stream. Initially, cow bells
signalled the cows moving to lower pastures for the night, but the sound died
quickly.
It was a warm
but very breezy morning (14°C), and this helped us to be ready to leave at 8.10,
including using 'rock toilets'. During packing, the ability of my Tilley hat to
float was tested as it blew into the stream. It floated well but did get rather
wet.
The path
continued up the valley, which became wider and more grassy. Stopping at 9 am for
some mountain mix, the sun filled the valley and we heard marmots and saw a
couple of deer above. The first attempt to get water failed as Martin spotted
cow dung just above his filling point in the spring! The second, higher, was
more successful, but chlorine tabs were used to be on the safe side. (The top picture was taken here.)
That sets us up
for the rest of the climb to Col high point
Looking north towards Orry
The view ahead, from Pic du Noufonts
Already quite a
few (mostly Spaniards) people around. A descent to where the GR11 joins today's
route, and red and white marks begin. A further climb, again fairly steep, then
some lovely undulations at about 2800 metres brought us to the Col de Neu Creus
- col of nine crosses, which couldn't be mistaken! The terrain and scenery
today we're just like the Lake District - good
paths, nice ridges, grassy hills - just somewhat higher here!
View north from
Pics de la Vaca to Estany de Caranca
On the ridge near Coll de Tirapitz
Another descent
and climb - surprisingly mountain bikers coming down the rough, loose path,
then a lovely area dominated by white quartzite rocks. That signalled the end
of our ridge and the path wound down in a big bend. Lunch out of the wind -
pâté de fois and mackerel in mustard sauce (a sign that we visited a French
supermarket yesterday) and a cup of tea.
Only one more climb to the Coll de la Marrana on a
gentle path, revealing a view of pistes again.
The ascent path to Coll de la Marrana
Cloud was
sitting in one valley, and being blown around where we have walked today. The
ridge followed the French-Spanish border from Col
d'Eyne to Col de Tirapitz, and we are now in Spain
We arrived at Refugi
d'Ulldeter at 3.15 pm - guardian still having lunch!
Suddenly, the
refuge is busy and noisy. This will be our first overnight in a Spanish refuge.
Rules are provided in French, and are not unreasonable. We can only go upstairs
after 5 pm. In the meantime, sent a text to Graham and Tove, who get married
today.
Bit of postcard
writing after putting bags upstairs. As Martin has now finished 'To the Poles Without
a Beard' by Catherine Hartley (we've both enjoyed this book from Julie about a
scatty woman who walks to both poles) it is time to neatly cut 'Fresh Air Fiend'
by Paul Theroux in half, so that Martin can continue where he left off, and I can
continue from Part 5.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
16
km, 1200 metres ascent, 7 hours
1 comment:
Refuge d'Ull de Ter - a place that sticks in my mind for serving me one of the best cups of tea I've ever had. Alas, I discovered the following morning that their breakfast tea bags weren't the same quality as their afternoon ones.
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