Pyrenees HRP - 2004 - Day 39

 

Sue and Martin's Big Adventure

 

Day 39 - Thursday 2 September 2004 - Stage 32

Postcard Summary

Well lit campsite to Upper Romedo Lake

Cloud foils bid to climb Pic de Certascan, so we continue east in cool weather – 8.0 hours, 10 km, 1000m ascent

After a storm in the night we got wet feet from the grass during a climb to the uninhabited hamlet of Noarre, then wet heads from the climb through trees!  Lunch was pretty cool (had to don trousers) before we reached Col de Certascan.  Decided against peak bagging!  A hot chocolate at the Refuge was good, whilst a mule tried to nibble our rucksacks!  A shower created a double rainbow over our lakeside campsite, where we stocked up on bilberries for breakfast.

 

 

Diary Entry (by Martin)

We hadn't noticed the light near our tent when we pitched it. So we hoped that it would be turned off at some point. It wasn't, until morning. So we had a 'WELL LIT' camp, to go with the barking dogs (they did go to sleep) the storms - lots of thunder / lightning / heavy rain - so much for the owner using a sprinkler on the parched grass, and the owls, who were still going strong when we left the site at 8.30 having breakfasted on muesli, cookies and chocolate.

 

It's becoming harder to get going at 8.15 as it gets light later now. There had been a considerable 'dew' from the rain, and our legs harvested this on the path up to Noarre from Graus. Shorts and gaiters were soon employed, but the large ferns and the low silver birch were a problem all morning. Boots and feet got wet and the 'waterproof' socks didn't really work. [In my case perhaps because they were inside out again!]

 

Sunny in Spain but cloud over France, the opposite from recent weather, but during the day the clouds built up and eventually rain blew in from Spain. But it was a fine morning, and we had time to note the onset of autumn colours and the fading of summer flowers such as pinks, though the heather is still in full bloom.

 

The pines are a variety that have lots of pale cones right at the top of the tree. Curious.

 

We approached the village of Noarre across an old bridge composed of logs (old tree trunks) and rocks, arriving there at 9.30. (See top picture.)

 

There is no road access but some buildings have been done up smartly. Then we had a lengthy climb through birch woods and up to a high lake - 2355 metres - on Ton Joosten's route rather than Georges Véron's. We were hungry, having had only a brief 'mountain mix' break, and it was a cool 12°C. Sue found a place out of the wind, and the brew and virtually the last of the bread with our respective tins of fish [sardines (S), tuna (M)] was most welcome - 12.35 to 1.05.

 

 View back to Noarre

 

 Wet grass on the ascent from Noarre

 

Waterfall on the ascent to Coll de Certascan

 

After the refuelling there was virtually no more scrambling (a feature of the late morning) and we reached Coll de Certascan (2605 metres) at 1.45. Whilst still cool, it wasn't so windy here, so quite pleasant. A decision as to whether or not to climb Pic de Certascan (2853 metres) a one and a quarter hour diversion, had to be made. The views from the col were good - perhaps 30 to 40 miles under a cloud base of around 2800 to 2900 metres.

 

Coll de Certascan

 

Pic de Certascan was in and out of cloud. Eventually we decided the views from the top wouldn't be worth the effort, and so we descended easily to Refugi de Certascan, where we found a guardian and some hot chocolate. He was the only person we saw all day.

 

 View to lake below Coll de Certascan

 

Apollo Butterfly

 

On the way we had continued to follow the green paint that seems to mark this route, and we passed the site where Dave and I camped in 1994 - it must have been a long day from our high camp above Alos! There was a 'snow pole' - pink/yellow/green/white x 2 on the way down. Lovely views as we went east from Certascans, and over a low col (2250 metres) to reach the Upper Romedo Lake (2120 metres) where we are now camped.

 

Route to final col at 2250 metres

 

A shower on the way down brought our waterproofs into use for the first time since Bielsa, two weeks ago, but worth it for the splendid rainbow that followed.

 

 

A lovely spot - usual routine - cook in tent with view. Sue collects bilberries for breakfast, etc. Plan route for tomorrow ...

 

 

Mint tea and chocolate rounds of the day.

 

Stats and route (Viewranger):

10 km, 1350 metres ascent, 8.0 hours

 

 

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Monday 21 October 2019 - A Phoenix Park Circuit

 

I've written about this 60 km bike ride several times before - see here for reports, route, and maps.

 

Today, Monday morning bike rides were rekindled when Paul B and I set off at 8.30 from Seamons Moss Bridge. A lovely morning, but with autumn taking hold, gloves were needed. And the route was damp, waterlogged even on the Trans Pennine Trail (TPT) where it passes under the M6.

 

We stuck to the TPT and some minor roads to reach Moore, thus avoiding the moronic dog walkers of Lymm.

 

 

The towpath from Moore has no morons, and was a delight, passing swans, a heron, lots of mallard, coots, grey wagtails, a cormorant, carrion crows, jays, and a fleet of Canada geese, as we continued to the turn off to Phoenix Park. Beyond the park, the café at Norton Priory provided its usual generous portions.

 

 

After a leisurely 'two coffees' break, we saddled up for the second half of the ride, initially on an excellent newly surfaced path beside the Bridgewater Canal.

 

 

Today's ride was taken at a leisurely pace, as we both have colds. It was a lovely way to spend a Monday morning, and we were back in time to hose the bikes down before lunch.

A Quiet Weekend in Timperley

 

Friday night at Sale Waterside with R + J. Kiki Dee and Carmelo Luggeri. Kiki Dee gained fame many years ago - tonight she played two excellent sets, including the number that got her into Top of the Pops in 1974. She was famed for a while as someone who played a lot with Elton John.

 

More recently she has enjoyed a lower profile, making music with Carmelo, an accomplished guitarist, for over 25 years.

 

We really enjoyed the concert, after which everyone*, including Kiki and Carmelo, adjourned to the bar. A really enjoyable evening; thanks Jenny for organising it.

 

* Well, not quite all the several hundred people who attended!

 

 

 

Saturday morning started, as usual when we are at home, with a parkrun. Today, our 'home' run got the vote, so we joined the 250 participants and 20 volunteers on a fine morning, though soggy under foot. Slow going through the grass. Tris did a fine job as Run Director and everything went smoothly. There was even cake.

 

Results are here.

 

 

It was good to see Mark Hunter, who has been battling a serious illness, going slightly faster every week at the moment, though he has a long way to go to get back to last year's times. At least he is running, and it was great to see him looking positive.

 

 

Today - Great Run Local - a bit of good exercise before a lazy 'house admin' day...

Friday 18 October 2019 - A Circuit from Bollington (15 km)

 

A break in the showery weather provided an ideal morning for this stroll, starting from a car park near the centre of Bollington (see map below). The car park is currently occupied by travellers, but we found a space and set off, Sue, Graeme and I, up the familiar and very steep path to the south of the town.

 

We soon found ourselves looking down on the town (see above), and after a while we reached the whitewashed hulk of White Nancy, where a couple were picnicking, despite it only being 10.30 am.

 

White Nancy was built in 1817 to commemorate victory at the Battle of Waterloo. I've written about it before - here. Today it shimmered in the bright sunshine. Freshly whitewashed?

 

 

The three of us continued over Kerridge Hill, where there's a trig point with an extensive view over Greater Manchester and the plains of Cheshire.

 

 

We saw no other walkers today, apart from the afore-mentioned picnickers and a handful of dog walkers. But our progress was monitored by the local buzzard population.

 

After descending Tower Hill and skirting Rainow, we found ourselves on a familiar road that leads past a Very Helpful Signpost to the waterworks below Lamaload Reservoir.

 

 

Rising again, we passed isolated buildings on our way to the hamlet of Ginclough, seen below our picnic spot in the next picture. I claimed this to be the half way point of the walk, but Sue sussed that it might be a bit further than that, given the obvious proximity of White Nancy (just to the left of the picture).

 

 

My route did however head north to Rainowlow and around the back of Billinge Hill, rather than head straight back to Bollington.

 

We passed this concrete structure. There's a Tumulus marked near here on the map, but I wonder what this is?

 

 

Some delightful paths through a variety of countryside drew us slowly back to our starting point, before which we happened upon Bridgend Centre, a community centre that encompasses a small and very friendly café. We took advantage of this and enjoyed a round of coffee and biscuits for all three of us, for the princely sum of £1.50! An excellent spot.

 

 

It's across the road from this church, so just head for the spire and you can't miss the café.

 

 

Having started at 10 am, we had finished the walk around 2 pm - about 15 km, with less than 500 metres of ascent. A lovely outing in fine weather, but we drove through a heavy rain shower on the way home.

 

Here's the (highly recommended by Sue and Graeme) route. If you do try to follow it, you need to be fairly attentive to the map. The image below, and the others in this (and any other) posting can be clicked on to see a larger image with good resolution.

 

Pyrenees HRP - 2004 - Day 38

 

Sue and Martin's Big Adventure

 

Day 38 - Wednesday 1 September 2004 - Stage 31

Postcard Summary

Bilberry camp to (nobody seen for 24 hours) Masia-Noarre campsite

Long leisurely day in varied scenery with frogs – 8.25 hours, 14 km, 650m ascent

After yesterday’s huge boulders and very slow going, today was a delight.  Only 400 metres of ascent to the first col, then an undulating route to have lunch at an unmanned refuge – Rif Pujol – it houses nine people and is very smart and clean.  Looks like a large metal trunk from the outside.  Then a nice gentle descent during which we had to make a route decision.  We came to Camping Masia because it sounded nice in the guide book, and the clouds were building up….and as I write, from the comfort of the bar at Camping Masia, it is raining.  Correct decision.  The alternative would have been another high wild camp, probably with lots of frogs, which have dominated the day.  Now looking forward to a nice meal at the restaurant here.

 

 

Diary Entry (by Sue)

Tonight I write from the comfort of a chair with a beer in front of me. We have dropped to a highly recommended campsite, Bordes de Graus, at 1360 metres, where the 'excellent sanitary facilities' have proved just that - showers had and washing done.

 

Our quiet campsite last night had cloud below it this morning. When cleaning teeth last night we heard barking -  fox? wolf? deer? The muesli was nice with added bilberries, and we got off at 8.30, wearing gaiters due to wet grass. The climb was steep on the narrow, cairned path, crossing rocks in parts and passing two false cols.

 

 

The last section was steep scree, but the Col de la Cornella (2485 metres) was a superb notch in the sunshine and a just reward for the climbing. Mountain mix went down well. Descent over steep ground to two lakes and a contouring path to the next col.

 

Another short climb to the Estany de Calberante. In this lake were hundreds of tadpoles and on the grass surrounding it, lots of tiny frogs. The tadpoles were concentrated around the silty edges, until disturbed, when the water heaves as a tidal wave of tadpoles heads for deeper water.

 

 

 

This nicely put off the climb (steeply) to the next col at 2610 metres, where there was a good view of Mont Roig, and of the three Gallina lakes and refuge.

 

The view from Col de Calberante

 

The descent past these lakes was lovely -  large polished rocks, waterfalls and streams - the sheep were surprised to see us! The obstacle of the water filled gully before the refuge, mentioned in Joosten's guide book, was easily passed and refuge proved an excellent place for lunch.

 

It is unstaffed and has beds for nine. Martin brewed inside whilst I made a pâté baguette outside, despite the lack of sunshine. The refugi was opened in 1984 and is named after Enric Pujol, a mountaineer killed on Broad Peak in 1981 aged only 28. It would be a cosy place to stay, with its candle chandelier.

 

 

 

The path down from here was also a good one - steep in parts and over smooth rocks in other parts. It followed a stream, meaning that frogs were ever present - both adults and tiny ones.

 

 

At least this afternoon was cooler than yesterday - some cloud cover and a cool breeze. Saw our second snake of the trip, about 9 inches long and bronze coloured. Despite being provoked, it wasn't in a hurry to escape.

Through silver birch trees before reaching and crossing a stream. Another brief but pleasant section of path brought us to a dirt road. This zigzagged down and joined a tarmac road, that passed by the nearby uninhabited hamlet of Quanca. After passing the reservoir and dam, the hamlet of Graus was reached, where our campsite is located.

There had been an option of going higher and traversing across to tomorrow's route, but this option wasn't mentioned in either guide book, and in view of the black clouds above, the descent to this site was chosen. No storm, but plenty of rumbles of thunder, and some black clouds. Of note, we hadn't seen anyone for over 24 hours when we met two Spaniards on their way to the refugi - an indication of the remoteness of this section.

Arriving at 4.45 pm, a beer was welcome before the tent went up. After showers etc, we retreat to the bar, for diary writing and postcards. The restaurant here conserves one of our evening meals in case Refugi de Certascan cannot oblige tomorrow. We eat green beans for starters, chops, ratatouille and salad for main, and yoghurt / creme caramel for pudding. The 'english speaking lady' misinterprets a couple of orders to achieve this! The rain patters on the skylights above.

Addendum:
The Enric Pujol refuge provided a couple of peach drinks that somebody had left behind there - very welcome on our way down to Graus. Also there was a plaque:

"ENRIC PUJOL 10/2/53 - BROAD PEAK (KARAKORUM) 5/8/81" and a quotation from Frederich Nietzsche.*

Stats and route (Viewranger):

14 km, 650 metres ascent, 8.25 hours 

 

* “Let us face ourselves. We are Hyperboreans; we know very well how far off we live. 'Neither by land nor by sea will you find the way to the Hyperboreans'—Pindar already knew this about us. Beyond the north, ice, and death—our life, our happiness. We have discovered happiness, we know the way, we have found the exit out of the labyrinth of thousands of years. Who else has found it? Modern man perhaps? 'I have got lost; I am everything that has got lost,' sighs modern man. This modernity was our sickness: lazy peace, cowardly compromise, the whole virtuous uncleanliness of the modern Yes and No. … Rather live in the ice than among modern virtues and other south winds! We were intrepid enough, we spared neither ourselves nor others; but for a long time we did not know where to turn with our intrepidity. We became gloomy, we were called fatalists. Our fatum—abundance, tension, the damming of strength. We thirsted for lightning and deeds and were most remote from the happiness of the weakling, 'resignation.' In our atmosphere was a thunderstorm; the nature we are became dark—for we saw no way. Formula for our happiness: a Yes, a No, a straight line, a goal.”

 

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Wednesday 16 October 2019 - 'What I Learnt Cycling Around the World'

I don't often report back on SWOG's Wednesday evening presentations, but this one was exceptional.

Russell Selby graduated then got a Master's degree in Civil Engineering. Then he cycled around the world. It took him five years. He's now back in the North West, working for Ecospheric, an environment friendly company.

He delivered an enthralling talk with passion - basically an overview of his five years of cycling and working his way around the world, the first three of which were with friends, and the last two, from Patagonia to New York, were on his own. Remarkably, he only had to pay for accommodation on 12 of the nights he spent in the last two years; he wild camped or was offered free lodgings for the rest!

Russell's website is here.

Now, can I remember what Russell said he had learnt?...

• people are amazing
• character is limitless
• enthusiasm and empathy win the day
• money isn't everything
• being positive is a great asset

I'm not sure whether those are right, and I know there was more! Perhaps Russell will either comment or give me the information to enable me to edit the above.*

Anyway his engaging talk could be inspirational to certain youngsters. It's a shame that 'the day job' doesn't give Russell much opportunity to reach the young adults who may benefit most.

* Russell has now commented:
5 things I learnt.

People are awesome
I am very fortunate
The planet is incredible
The future is now
Character is limitless

But what I think most people should take from it...

Money isn't everything
Appreciate and empathise
Be positive and proactive

Polly For Sale

 

I bought Polly in April 2010, so that's nearly ten years of trouble free motoring from this excellent little car, with this year's mileage being the highest out of all those years - probably because we've had no long trips away this year.

 

I've had this car far longer than any other. It's lovely to drive and really hasn't given me any reason to want to replace it, but good things don't last for ever, and I judge this to be an appropriate time to sell. With minimal service bills, cheap insurance, and depreciation of £400 pa, I think it has served me well.

 

It may not sell, but if it does, I hope the new owner will be very happy. Here's the overview.