A Short Tour of the Vanoise – Friday 31 August 2007 - Day 6 – Pralognan to Refuge de Péclet-Polset

Here’s Sue’s diary record for Stage 10:

Friday 31 August 2007

Had late breakfast (8am) after a comfortable night. A fine spread of croissants, pain au chocolats, and French bread was more appetising than yesterday's.

Packed away freshly washed clothes, paid bills, and donned waterproof tops as the cloud was moist.

The track led from the back of the campsite, into a wooded valley by the river. The mist coated the webs on the trees, and our hair. We soon warmed up with the still air and gentle ascent, and clothes came off. Passing through the hamlet of Les Prioux, we observed its similarity to a Nepalese village but resisted the temptation to stop - too early for coffee.

A section of road followed, and more impressions of Nepal - a man leading two mules with loads heading up to Refuge de la Valette. After leaving the road, the track climbed more steeply, and two four-wheel drive vehicles lumbered past us.

Our coffee stop was at Refuge le Roc de la Pêche.

It was next to a 12th Century chapel - Notre Dame des Alpages, which had lots of wood carvings and two small stained glass windows.

There were carved pieces holding different types of bells, which were replicated inside the refuge. It also had a huge fireplace and a medieval looking chandelier with bronze figures of animals.

The Refuge’s coffees and hot chocolate were expensive but very nice.

By now, the cloud was breaking and the sun shone in brief spells. Another gradual climb, past a farm producing Beaufort cheese, and cows grazing, bells ringing. The path climbed away from the river, where we stopped to put on shorts, and soon afterwards we stopped for lunch - French bread, tinned fish and tomato and fruit. Martin brewed up. The bright spell seemed to be over - it clouded up again, but it was only a short distance to the Refuge de Péclet-Polset at 2474 metres. It was rebuilt last year and has several large solar panels on the side and panoramic windows that now look out onto cloud.

There are sleepers in our dorm of bunks, so we settle down to diary write, read, do puzzles, etc.

Sue

This was a fine refuge, AAC at that, so Sue and I got discounts for only the second time this week, but overall our £63 Austrian Alpine Club membership has been worthwhile.

Today we passed a river with tidal wave signs, much dew laden foliage, and raspberries galore.

Here we are known as 'Vansielri', so we are Italian today. That doesn't stop me thrashing R and S at Uno, but I lost the second game due to a false accusation of cheating against Richard...

A superb hut, with excellent food - lumpy soup, a good pork dish, cheese, and baked apple.

Martin

[Stats: 9.10 to 10.30 - Le Pont de la Peche 1740 metres; 11.00 to 11.40 - coffee at refuge; 12.55 to 1.40 - lunch in the sun; 2.10 - refuge at 2474m = 3.5 hours walking, 12.0 km with 1050 metres ascent.]

(Anquet: 13 km, 1292 m ascent)

A Short Tour of the Vanoise – Thursday 30 August 2007 - Day 5 – Refuge du Col de la Vanoise to Epecia Hotel, Pralognan

Here’s Jenny’s diary record for Stage 9:

Thursday 30 August 2007

Woke this morning only to be trapped in our beds by the party of French people above us (getting dressed and packing). Made it to breakfast in time though. Left the Refuge at 8.15, after Jenny made several attempts to go to the loo, only to be disturbed each time by impatient people. Grrrr.

Richard has mislaid a walking pole, but apart from that all is well. Weather still misty but at least it isn't raining.

Slight change of plan to the original route down the mule track as we are led (by Martin) down a more challenging (for me, Jenny) path down.

Quite dramatic scenery around us: very atmospheric with all the mist and cloud.

Meet some mules and a lovely horse on the way down.

Then it's into quite thick cloud and a rather slippery path. Nobody falls over though.

Eventually we rejoin the mule track and continue along the originally planned route which includes hot chocolate and coffees at Les Fontanettes Refuge, where we join the GR55 route.

We then wend our way down to Pralognan, which is rather sweet - although the piped soft rock music (Queen - Bohemian Rhapsody) in the village square is a little strange.

Check in to Epecia Lodge Hotel and quickly freshen up before we head back into the village for lunch. We find a charming little restaurant with good food - Sue and Jenny have goat's cheese salad, Martin a 'walkers plate' (meat, not the best choice), Andrew an omelette, and Richard became almost ecstatic when his dish of eggs, bacon and potatoes arrived. As it was our day off we succumbed to alcohol - beer, kirsche and cider (not all at once).

Some postcard buying and exploring the village before we go back to the hotel to rest - except mountain goat Sue who sprints up to the waterfall to check out a Via Ferrata route.

All meet again at 6.30 to find somewhere for a drink and to eat.

An Regal Savoyard restaurant has 'Savoire' dishes so we choose this one. We are all quite pleased with our choices except 'poor Sue' whose choice of 'tête de veaux' really does turn out to be the head of a cow (in globby lumps). Luckily Jenny's dish of salmon tartlette is so huge she shares it with Sue. Two bottles of red Savoire wine later and we are all ready to retire to our comfy hotel.

Jenny

Last night's refuge - a big one, but we had a crowded room with several 'poncho' clad groups drying out. The French don't seem to recognise that it rains here, and they use €5 ponchos.

The breakfast was poor - just a bit of dried bread and jam, and coffee from a poorly attended machine.

En route to Pralognan, our route is definitely better than GR55. We meet a man from Liverpool, that's all, who has extended a business trip to Courcheval.

The Table d'Orientation above Pralognan gives fine views despite the cloud, and an ibex sculpture stands over the northern end of the village.

Martin

[Stats: leave 8.15; 10.30 to 11.10 - coffee at Fontanettes; 11.40 Pralognan = 2 hours 45 mins walking, 7.0 km with 50 metres ascent.]

(Anquet: 7 km, 125 m ascent)

Note: This entry follows some posted back in April. Given my current ‘light exercise following hernia operation’ regime, it seems appropriate, rather than offer ‘heatwave on the canal’ postings, to ‘fill in’ with the rest of the Vanoise postings. To see all the postings from this trip, click here. Enjoy!

Thursday 21 June 2018 – An Evening Walk Around Styal

Mid summer. Historically the time for an ambitious evening walk to the summit of Coniston Old Man or some similar spot before returning to work the following day. But that’s in the distant past, before the days of this blog, though it would have been great tonight. Perhaps we should aim to do that next year.

Anyway, Andrew had rushed back from holiday to a mountain of emails and a promise to lead us on an evening walk from The Ship in Styal.

A lovely sunny evening, with no clouds - so no spectacular sunset, starting through pleasant fields. There were no unforeseen obstacles on tonight’s route.

We skirted the runway for a while. Quite a noisy place. There are some houses here, on a gated road. They must have triple glazing! It didn’t bother the goldfinches though.

Progressing towards Morley, we found a field in which we’ve previously encountered head high crops. The farmer has kindly provided a path through the present crop, but it’ll be very wet after rain, and interesting if it grows to head height!

In normal conditions the path through Bank House Farm can be diabolically muddy, with lots of sad looking livestock in evidence. Today the farm is boarded up and the livestock has gone. The ground is solid – not surprising given the recent lack of rain. The path beyond the farm leading down to Styal Mill was delightful.

The walk drew to a close after we passed Styal Mill, Quarry Bank House where the owners lived, and the Apprentice House.

Styal village had been heaving with people earlier, due to a cricket match, a beer festival, and hordes of scouts. Only the scouts remained in evidence when we returned, though the place was still full of cars.

Here’s our route – 7.6 km, with minimal ascent. It took us a couple of hours, after which we adjourned to The Ship for some midsummer Prosecco etc.

Thanks go to Andrew for organising this pleasant stroll, during which England thrashed Australia at one-day cricket, and Croatia thrashed Argentina at football in the World Cup.

GR54 – Tour of the Écrins, September 2012 – Index of Postings

Nearly six years late, but here’s a posting that makes navigating the GR54 trip postings a bit easier.

Prologue

Tour of the Oisans - Getting to Bourg d'Oisans

Saturday 1 September 2012 - GR54 Day 1 - Bourg d'Oisans to Clavans-le-Bas

Sunday 2 September 2012 - GR54 Day 2 - Clavans-le-Bas to Chez Baptiste in Le Chazelet

Monday 3 September 2012 - GR54 Day 3 - Le Chazelet (1786m) to Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar 
d'Arene

Tuesday 4 September 2012 - GR54 Day 4 - Refuge de l'Alpe de Villar d'Arene (2077m) to Monêtier-les-Bains (1495m)

Wednesday 5 September 2012 - GR54 Day 5 - Monêtier-les-Bains (1495m) to Vallouise (1166m) via Col des Grangettes

Thursday 6 September 2012 - GR54 Day 6 - Vallouise (1166m) to Refuge des Bans (2076m)

Friday 7 September 2012 - GR54 Day 7 - Refuge des Bans (2076m) to Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette (1790m)

Saturday 8 September 2012 - GR54 Day 8 - Refuge du Pré de la Chaumette (1790m) to Refuge de Vallonpierre (2271m)

Sunday 9 September 2012 - GR54 Day 9 - Refuge de Vallonpierre (2271m) to Refuge des Souffles (1975m) via Col de Colombes

Monday 10 September 2012 - GR54 Day 10 - Refuge des Souffles (1975m) to Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey (1255m)

Tuesday 11 September 2012 - GR54 Day 11 - Le Désert-en-Valjouffrey (1255m) to Valsenestre (1294m)

Wednesday 12 September 2012 - GR54 Day 12 - Valsenestre (1294m) to Refuge de la Muzelle (2130m)

The View from Refuge de la Muzelle

Thursday 13 September 2012 - GR54 Day 13 - Refuge de la Muzelle (2130m) to Bourg d'Oisans (720m)

Wednesday 9 January 2013 – A slideshow for SWOG – Tour of the Ecrins

Reprise

Sue's Diary

Conrad's 1999 adventure

GR54 – Tour of the Écrins

A call with Humphrey this morning reminded me of this excellent trip that dates back to 2012, the above picture featuring Roy and Susan at Col de Vallonpierre, 2607 metres, on 8 September 2012.

For anyone looking for a fine ‘hut to hut’ route of up to a fortnight in the Alps, this could be a great choice. Kev Reynolds’ Cicerone guide provides all the information you should need, and the Parc National des Écrins 1:50000 scale hiking map covers the entire route.

If you are planning to go in August, it may be best to book the mountain huts in advance, but outside that month it’s simply courteous to call ahead to let the guardian know that you will be arriving. The hut guardians are usually happy to do this for you.

Huts vary regarding bookings – some (possibly most these days) can be booked by email, or once they have opened reservations can be made by ‘phone. Due to increasing instances of ‘no-shows’ many huts now require payment of a deposit, often by bank transfer. This isn’t really practical for UK visitors due to high bank charges. We’ve solved this problem in the past by agreeing to confirm our reservation by ‘phone a couple of days before arrival.

If you are going as a group you do get piece of mind by taking the trouble to book in advance. If you then get delayed by bad weather you’d have to undergo a session of phone calls to adjust the bookings – luckily in nearly forty years of Alpine trips this has yet to happen to me.

For anyone interested, my contemporaneous GR54 blog postings are here.

Have fun in the Alps! If you go to the Écrins this September say hello to Humphrey if you bump into him. Have a great trip, HMP3!

PS Conrad has kindly commented, with this link to his own diary of a 1999 trip that I know will be of interest to Humphrey, and others who are familiar with Conrad's adventures.

I've finally composed an Index - click here for the Index of these postings.

Sunday 17 June 2018 – Yet Another Dunham Massey Walk

We didn’t make the same mistake as last time. Today’s departure from Timperley Bridge at 8.40 saw us arriving at the Lavender Tea Rooms spot on 10.00, just as they opened with a fresh stock of newly baked cakes. My miniscule portion of coffee and walnut cake almost dwarfed the coffee that was served in crockery from a doll’s house!

On my last visit I reported that the swans didn’t seem to have any offspring this year. They must have been taking a break then, as today they were looking after a kindergarten of eight or nine babies.

The canal was busy, with runners and cyclists on the towpath, as well as the usual boats and rowers. What can sometimes be a very muddy, churned up and rutted path turns into a hard baked flat surface at times such as this. We’ve had hardly any rain for some time.

If we were train spotters, this would be a ‘double header’.

‘Two ‘phones’ JJ enjoyed one of his home made scones, whilst it took me a little while to meet the ‘cake challenge’. We reflected on how lucky we are to have such a fine establishment as the Lavender Tea Rooms so close to where we live. And it’s not the only such place.

A 14 km circuit from Timperley Bridge, after we’d returned via Altrincham and Navigation Road. I’ll not detail the numerous calf injuries that arose over the weekend, but I hope everyone makes speedy recoveries.

Saturday 16 June 2018 – Wythenshawe parkrun Number 343

Damp but not muddy. Near perfect conditions and a leering Cromwell greeted today’s 313 runners.

Run Director for the day, Alan, behaved impeccably. Perhaps he felt he was being assessed by ‘HQ’!

Even the barking dogs were quiet (for once) during his briefing.

I volunteered as Tail Walker and enjoyed the amiable pace set by Victoria and Samantha, finishing in a smidging over an hour. The picture below shows the Tail Walker’s view from near the start.

Results are here. Curiously the ‘event history’ link shows me as ‘Unknown’, whereas the ‘latest results’ page has me recorded properly. No matter.

It was another long session in the Courtyard Tea Room. Today we were joined by a team from ‘HQ’, shown below with some of our Run Directors and random hangers-on. We hope they enjoyed their visit.

Meanwhile, Mick was busy trying to clock up as many steps as possible before an excuse sets in. (Here.)

Blue Moon and Flying Pigs Spotted over Belgium

Amongst his ‘Fitbit Friends’ Mick B. can appear to be the laziest of us all, generally providing the weaker participants the comfort of knowing that they will never be at the bottom of the pile.

Mick is in Belgium at present, accompanying Gayle on what appears to be a knitting trip*. It looks to me as if he has had to escape from the balls of wool and inadvertently clock a few steps. 113,225 over seven days, even!

Not even the usually prolific Sue B. has managed to keep up with Mick!

Was that a flying pig I just saw? No, it’s our swifts coming in laden with insects…Oh dear, I think I might be losing the plot here.

*Gayle’s Knitting Trip

“After my success with crocheting blankets and knitting socks, I wondered if I could knit a jumper. Feeling ridiculously chuffed not so much with the successful end result, but with the fact that I just managed to uncast-off half the cuff, drop four stitches down six rows and pick them back up to correct an error, thus saving me from having to rip it all the way back and reknit.”

With apologies to Mick and Gayle; Gayle’s stupendously fine blog can be found here. Or even here.

Happy Days in the Alps

Wednesday 19 July 2017, above Innergschloss.

A lovely day in the mountains, in the best of company, nearly a year ago. I wonder where we will be on 19 July this year? Perhaps somewhere that will remind us of this location?

This is all I can manage at present – apart from the usual towpath stuff – as I’m still in ‘recovery mode’ after being torn apart last Friday. I’m told the pain is ‘muscle pain’ not nerve pain, and I’m hoping it will subside after the staples that are currently helping to hold my guts in have been removed next Monday.

Saturday 9 June 2018 – Wythenshawe parkrun Number 342

I was fit enough to pop along to yesterday’s parkrun, where 341 participants graced the 342nd event at Wythenshawe. “Nearly but not quite”, says the resident symetrician, “but certainly in the top ten regarding participant numbers”.

The full results are here. I perched in a deck chair near the start, from where the following pictures were snapped before we adjourned for a very long coffee break.

    Early leaders

    Near the front

    Not far from the front

    A little further from the front

    Top 20?

    A bit further back

    A lot further back

   Near the very back

   Leaders on lap 2 – and which of those old timers was first to finish?

   The Courtyard Tea Room an hour and a half later