Thursday 23 July 2015 - Pyrenees GR11 - Day 39 - Camping Can Fosses, Planoles to Nuria (Hotel Vall de Nuria)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Distance: 18 km (Cum: 656 km)

Ascent: 1600 metres (Cum: 37250 metres)

Time taken: 8.2 hrs including 1.8 hrs stops (Cum: 271.4 hrs including 54.6 hrs stops)

Weather: blue skies, warm, a few clouds in the afternoon but nothing threatening

Derk joined our team today, so Tobi and I enjoyed the company of this paediatric cardiologist for a day dominated by two big ascents. Petra and Jolijn had found GR11 a little demanding so returned to collect their car from Encamp whilst Derk walked with us.

The sun struggled to reach our corridor between two hedges before the tents came down, so they were dried out later on the lawn at Nuria. Goodbyes and best wishes were exchanged, and a self timed photo of our group of five was stored on my memory card for transmission to the Netherlands at a later date. Then at 8.20 we stormed off.

Compared with yesterday's gently ascending tracks, today's gradient on the steep woodland paths was positively brutal. But it was relatively cool and fly free. I was surprised to reach the picnic spot by Refugi Corral Blanc in less than an hour. We'd climbed over 500 metres to get there - my fastest ascent of the whole trip. We knew we must be near the Refugi as a friendly dog, apparently named 'Refugi' came over to join us at the water point.

On we sped, to Queralbs for lunch, via the head of a long valley and some lovely contouring paths. Various types of potato croquettes seem to be the star attractions of this locality's menus. So we enjoyed some of those with our drinks, with obligatory crisps and olives, in this very pretty village that actually seems to have a life!

Perhaps it's because of its proximity to a significant resort (Nuria) served by a rack and pinion railway.

Lunch hour over, the two youngsters again flew off ahead of me, up another 800 metres towards Nuria. Rather frustratingly, every few minutes the electric trains hummed past, ferrying grockles up and down to and from Nuria. Some of the braver ones chose to walk down the path, but I'm sure they were a small minority. I wonder whether they noticed the eagles, circling, ready to pounce.

After what seemed like and probably was several hours of toilsome ascent up a narrow gorge in the dripping heat of the afternoon, we popped out onto a low ridge at 1983 metres. Well, Tobi and Derk - mountain climbing machines extraordinaire - were there a good twenty minutes before me, but their mouths were still wide open as they gazed at the Shangri-la laid before their eyes.

I'd seen it before from the ridge above, but I'd never visited Nuria. It reminds me a bit of some golf club/conference centre venues I've visited. Below us was a boating lake, beyond which a huge mowing machine was trimming the manicured lawn. A huge building dominates the complex. That's our hotel for the night, outside which is a crazy golf course, a basic campground and a large donkey sanctuary. To the right is a railway station, complete with all the bells and whistles that you'd expect to find there.

We ambled down and faffed. It was all a bit too much. After checking room prices we enjoyed a beer on the lawn with Derk before waving him off to get a train back down to Queralbs where he would meet the rest of his family.

After drying our tents (we won't be using them then) Tobi and I sorted out a strategy whereby we both got our way and my financial adviser could head off to the Bahamas in the knowledge that I'd taken his valued advice. We checked in to a twin room and before you could say 'Black Madonna' we were tucking in to the all you can eat buffet that comes with half board. Luckily my appetite has returned with a vengeance.

Today's pictures:
Early mist over Planoles
View at the head of the valley between Planoles and Queralbs
Pyrenean Eryngo now looking rather past its best
The valley leading to Nuria
First view of Nuria
Window at Nuria

Next Day - Day 40

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