Pyrenees HRP - 2004 - Day 1

Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
 

Day 1 - Monday 26 July 2004 -  Stage 0

 

Postcard Summary:

Hendaye-Plage to Biriatou

A short hot walk to a tranquil hamlet – 1.75 hours, 8 km, 200m ascent

This morning, a two hour or so walk - hot with temperature of 29C and big packs, but into the hills already. Luxury of hotel tonight - good for washing already smelly clothes!
It’s lovely here.  We are having a really lazy afternoon in sunny Biriatou before the hard work starts.  The packs were OK today and not too heavy.  Martin wore trainers and kept his new boots in the bag – it was easy terrain.

 

Diary entry (by Martin)
Ignored the 7 ish alarms and slept in until nearly 7.45 before the first brew was made. The MSR Superfly connects well with a Camping Gaz cylinder to speedily produce its first brew.

The night had been warm - only the silk liner was needed until about 2 am. Waking moments enjoyed the distant crash of surf onto the beach, and as night turned to day the cheeping birdsong gradually became louder. Both tent and Sue have been targeted by the local bird population, and there are also a few mosquitoes.

A pack of four yogurts and two bananas provided an ample breakfast, and we slowly packed our belongings away for our short first day's walk. It was still pleasantly quiet at the campsite by the time we left at 10.05. We'd packed in a very leisurely manner - a routine that will speed up as we try to get early starts to avoid serious climbs in the heat of the day.

We strolled down the beach on a lovely sunny morning and took self timed photos (see above) in front of the Residence Croisière, before leaving the vast beach and heading along the HRP/GR10 route. There is a large sign advertising the GR10 and we do follow that route today. Ton Joosten's Cicerone guide book, with Sue at the helm, sees us safely directed all the way to Biriatou - 10.30 to 12.15. This is George Véron's "Prologue" and his time is 2 hours.

Mainly on roads and paths/tracks, we gradually rise to about 100 metres before descending and rising again, to about 120 metres. The guide books fully describe the route. My thermometer showed about 29°C, but we weren't rushing and it didn't seem excessively hot, due to a light sea breeze.

We saw another hiker near the start, and shortly before Biriatou we passed a couple who were laden with tent etc, but were going very casually, walking in sandals. I wore trainers today, which were more than adequate. My late decision to bring boots rather than Saloman shoes was not justified by today's weather or terrain.  

The terrain could be English or Welsh. Fields, woods, a shady track through trees, distant hills up to around 900 metres. Eagles fly overhead at Biriatou as we eat the first few of a kilo of Unicorn's* 'Trail mix' nuts for lunch, there being no source of refreshment here on a Monday until 5 pm. Just one shop in evidence - selling antiques.  
 

Wander down to Hotel Bakea** and enjoy the rare delight of an early room. Nice bath, and equipped with shaving kit and other goodies. Wander up to pleasant Basque church with stencilled wooden roof/ceiling. Cool and quiet. Back out to sit on terrace behind our room, high above a main road, but with pleasant views of Basque countryside dotted with white houses amongst the woodland. 
 

Sending the daily message to Kate (see spreadsheet) we picked up messages: 'Bon Voyage' from Nick in Taiwan, and from Kate, so the phone is working fine (battery permitting). 
 

As the day wore on, we realised this hamlet is shut on Mondays, so we abstained until 7:30 pm by sitting in the courtyard area, reading and chatting. Then Sue noticed we had to 'dress' for dinner, so we put on our best clothes and had another good alfresco meal under plane trees in the smart and full hotel restaurant. Crab bisque / bonite tarte, duck au poivre vert / dorade à l'aile et piment, and cheese / tartin strawberry, and the Bearn 2002 Rosé went down well. Very nice. Bed by 10.30 pm. 
 

* Unicorn is still our esteemed local 'nut' shop. 

Yoga in Biriatou

 

Biriatou

 

Biriatou

Stats and route (Viewranger):

8 km, 220 metres ascent, 1.75 hours

 

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