Sue and Martin's Big Adventure
Day 40 - Friday 3 September 2004 - Stage 33
Postcard Summary (on yesterday's card)
Rainbow
Camp to Estany de Sottlo
Rough descent by waterfalls, then long
climb in cloudy weather to idyllic campsite – 9.0 hours, 13 km, 1000m ascent
Today proved harder than expected. The Joosten guide book failed to mention
certain difficult bits and was inaccurate elsewhere. But we ended up at a lovely spot after seeing
only 8 people all day – we are in a remote area. Our schedule indicates a possible ascent of
Pic d’Estats, but that is not feasible due to the time it would take and our
diminishing food reserves. [And a degree
of fatigue!]
Diary Entry (by Sue)
From one
beautiful camping spot to another .... with a hard day in between! The morning
at 'Rainbow Lake
Donned wet boots
and gaiters again, to leave at 8.20, just as the sun came up. The morning involved
a longish descent, first to the lower Romedo lake, with the first bit of
scrambling.
Crossing the
dam, we noted that the water level must have risen recently, as there was grass
and even flowering plants under water! The descent next to the river with its
numerous falls, was rough, and included a short but tricky section of
scrambling. (See top picture.) An old cabane was filled with raspberry bushes that provided a
ready handful of fruit.
We were sustained
by a handful of mountain mix, and the river was easily crossed. The descent
continued steeply through silver birch woods. As we and our rucksacks brushed
the branches, yellow leaves fell. Finally, at 11.15, the Pla de Boavi came into
view. Cattle grazed as we brewed in this flat spot at 1500 metres, in the
centre of a circle of rocks. It surprised us (especially Martin who was not hiding
too well for his ablutions) to see four people here.
For most of
today, the sun has been weak its best through high cloud, although with little
wind, the temperature was up to 22°C. Crossing the river after this break
required care - especially the long step between two boulders over a deep, fast
flowing part.
The ascent now
started - a track zigzagged through huge pine trees above the river, before a
new path above the trees climbed gently up the valley near a stream. The sparse
pines left room for laden bilberry and raspberry bushes. Replenished water from
a spring just before stopping for lunch at 1.30. No more bread, so we eat tins
of fish and chocolate, making more tea to prolong the break!
On the plateau
were around 50 sheep, including one very thin one with a broken foreleg. They
were left behind as the path climbed to the remains of the Refugi de Sellente.
Up we went, appreciating the gradient and the cairns
Views back to Mont
Roig, and onwards to an orange refuge on a bluff, that we would not be going
to. Only one more col to go today, but higher than this one, and the route
description in the Cicerone guide was poor. However, a steep descent, and some
boulder hopping around a few lakes found us at the next ascent - to Coll de
Baborte (4.30).
It was tiring,
as this time we climbed to 2602 metres. Now, the sun was shining through the
high cloud and there were views of Pic d'Estats (3143 metres) and Montcalm
(3077 metres) ahead.
Just a final
descent over grass to the Estany de Sottlo, another picturesque lake with pines
at one end, where we pitch, at 5.25 pm. (2392 metres.)
It was good to
have a short while in the sun before it went behind the hill, and we relaxed in
the tent. Dinner was mushroom soup, three cheese pasta with tuna, and hot
chocolate.
Tonight, torches
are required by 8.50 pm, despite a nearly clear sky. Only two lots of people
seen today, plus company at this excellent bivouac site.
Stats
and route (Viewranger):
13
km, 1200 metres ascent, 9.0 hours
2 comments:
Wow! A big day but stunning scenery.
Yes Conrad, a memorable day - one of many that it has been a delight to recount, 15 years later. There will be a break from the Pyrenees soon due to our 'Summer Holiday' finally taking place in early November!
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