19 July 1989 - Alta Via 2 - Day 5 - Malga Ciapela to Rifugio Fuchiade

Wednesday 19 July (Diarist: Martin B)

Wake at 7:30 to the hum of John's stove. Clearly Laurie and Martin W have arrived in the night, as I stumble over Laurie's tent on my way to the washroom.

Leisurely rising turns into a half day rest. War council rearranges holiday timetable, abolishes rest day with excursion and opts for two half rest days, of which this is one. It will make for a sweaty 3000 foot climb this afternoon, but enables the morning to pass without undue effort. Shopping, washing (if not done yesterday), generally dozing (mainly Dave), sleeping (Martin W).

I am unsuccessful in finding a map for the next section, or getting my boots repaired - two more rivets were lost on the scree yesterday.

There are Black Redstarts in the village, and apparently a Red-backed Shrike around the pleasant campsite. The peace of the morning was temporarily interrupted by a neighbour's unattended alarm until it's battery failed, then it was back to the crickets. The site and facilities are superb.

Eventually, after a light lunch, and lots of fussing, we succeeded in paying (more forms). Martin W and Laurie didn't manage such a good deal as the rest of us.

 

 

We left the site, together with its English climbers with 4-letter word vocabulary and a Vango Mark 4 with one 'A' pole, at 1:50 and headed off up the road towards Forca Rossa.

 

 

 

Hot dusty jeep track. Met a gang of English explorers on the way down. Steady plod up the first 600 metres for a short break by a stream. On up towards the zigzags. John and Martin B go on relentlessly and reach the top first. Martin W arrives last, a modest distance behind. Superb, if frightening, views towards the route ahead - "a particularly rugged section".

 

 

 

This spot (Forca Rossa) was a very pleasant place to wait. Eventually, all assembled, self timed photos were duly taken, the quintet all, as rarely, assembled.

 

 

 

On down the alp, no water to be found, we finished up at Rifugio Fuciade (1974 metres). Attempted to find a campsite amongst the cows, without success, so returned to the refuge. (Laurie and Martin W never left it.) Pleasant evening, good food. Dave got inebriated on the red wine ("no more than anyone else", he claims). Another Brit from Hull joined us at the end of the evening. His itinerary is a little gentler than ours.

Dave adds: Martin W ate a lot of cheese. The concept of vegetarianism is possibly heretical around here. Difficulty in getting Martin properly fed.

 

 

 

 Here's our route - 10 km, with 1100 metres of ascent.