Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019

Sue and Martin in Mallorca 2019
On the Archduke's Path in Mallorca

Tuesday, 9 February 2021

Summer in the Alps - 2005 - Wednesday 17 August - Via Ferrata Ivona Dibona


                   The Via Ferrata starts from Rifugio Lorenzi (2932 metres)
                                       (click on the image for a slideshow)

Wednesday 17 August - Via Ferrata Ivona Dibona (by Martin) 

The day dawned bright and clear for our planned traverse of the Ivona Dibona via ferrata, one of our favourite routes (CORT 6 - grade 2B, our 4th visit). 

After the usual tea, muesli and yoghurt, Sue and I set off with Ian and Caroline at 8:20 in the two cars and dropped ours at 8:40 at L'Ospitale, where the parking spaces had nearly all already been taken. Then in Ian and Caroline's Peugeot 206 we went to the huge car park at Rio Gere, and after toilet stops etc, we got the chair lift and then the bucket lift up to Rifugio Lorenzi at 2932 metres.


The suspension bridge that you can see high above the 'bucket' is the longest in the Dolomites

Ian, an experienced climber, helps the locals 'kit up'

It was delightfully cool as we joined a long queue  to the bottom of the metal steps. After getting to the top of the lift at 10 am, we set off at 10:30. 

For the first two hours we queued at length on this warm sunny day, behind hundreds of Italians and their children. Some of the latter moved quicker than us all day, but the move (stretch) needed to get onto the ladder, and the steep rocks below, caused a major jam.

Free at last to move at my own pace



On the suspension bridge

The path to Cristallino d'Ampezzo (3008 m)

We nipped across to the peak of Cristallino d'Ampezzo (3008 metres) for a break from the queue.



The whole experience would have been miserable in poor weather but it was ok today. We finally reached Forcella Grande after more than two hours, and, largely free from the crowds, we continued quickly on to our lunch spot - on the raised balcony of a bivouac hut at Forcella Padeon. 

We got there by the official route, involving an unlikely left turn steeply down then right, avoiding the unprotected ridge route taken by others. (12:30)







We enjoyed a bit of shade after lunch by way of high cloud. Our route continued on across the relentlessly exposed ledges, sometimes aided, sometimes not, the aid usually being used as a handrail only. 

The sky was now bright but overcast, affording some shade from the burning sun. We came across a lone German from Heidelberg - Joachim, a GP who had done a biochemistry degree at Princetown, and GP training in the Gorbals in Glasgow. He thought there was a route for him to get back to Rio Gere, but it had been closed off. Nice chap. 

We reached Forcella Bassa (2433 m) at 3:30, and continued relentlessly along the ridge. By 5 pm we could see the car at L'Ospitale from the end of the ridge, where we made a slight diversion to visit a high point.


On the steep descent to Forcella Bassa

Beers at L'Ospitale were most welcome. We waited for a while for Joachim (shattered), buying him a beer when he eventually turned up; then we took him back to his car at Rio Gere, after calls to Julia and Megan had fixed rendezvous arrangements. 

So we all got back to camp, showered, etc, and were soon in Cortina at Pizzeria Porto Rotondo for an excellent if relatively expensive meal for the seven of us, a fitting climax to an excellent mountain day. Outside, the climbing wall still operated for young children, and an Italian singer droned on.

A couple of Viewranger screen dumps show our route - 
9 km with just 200 metres ascent, taking all of 7 hours

Next Day

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