Monday 3 October 2011 – A Breath of Fresh Air

The first working day in October is the anniversary of my giving up full time work.  3 October 2011 is the eighth anniversary.  Curious, then, that I shall be breaking off writing this posting (Friday morning) to visit the office and enjoy lunch with an old team mate, who despite being the same age as me continues with the daily ’grind’ (albeit on a part-time basis).  Unlike Sue, who this week went back to work full time for six months!

Coincidentally, 1 October was the fourth anniversary of this blog, which I still enjoy compiling, but I’ve felt no urgency to record this week’s wanderings, (this morning has been spent catching up with other blogs on ‘Google Reader’ – apologies for the paucity of comments, time is the enemy as always), and I don’t feel compelled to quote any statistics, gear review policies, political statements, or anything much else (just now) outside the usual ‘what we got up to this week’ sort of postings.

On my first ‘day off’ when I went part time all those years ago I chose the Snowdon Horseshoe for a day out, and ever since then I’ve tried to celebrate by doing something active and interesting:

Year 0: Snowdon Horseshoe
Year 1: The ‘Missing Link’ trip to Cornwall
Year 2: Snowdon Horseshoe
Year 3: Half Dome
Year 4: The Altrincham Circular (my first blog posting)
Year 5: Eccles Pike (a bit short, that one!)
Year 7: South West Coast Path, and a Half Marathon
Year 8: Trips to the Southern Uplands, and Shropshire

This year I wasn’t in the middle of any ‘trip’.  It was Sue’s first day back at work, so it would be unfair for me not to be home in time to cook tea, and the cloud was going to be down over both the Lakes and Snowdonia.

So a day out in the Peak District was in order…

Think again.  I’d had my eye on Norman Thomas’s  ‘A Breath of Fresh Air’ walk for a while.  It’s not far from home to the starting point at Conder Green, and at 35km (22 miles) it’s a good distance for a brisk walk on an autumn day.  Anquet mapping on my computer told me that it reached the dizzying maximum height of 35 metres, so barring a bout of sea fret I’d have a cloud free day out.

So I enjoyed a lie in and was further delayed by someone crashing into the back of my car* at the traffic lights in Galgate, before reaching the car park at Conder Green at 9.30.

The walk is described on the Breath of Fresh Air website, and has been waymarked, so it’s easy to follow.  But the text on the website is currently ‘out of order’ with the description from Lancaster to Conder Green having been inserted immediately after Cockerham.  So I’ve copied and pasted it in the correct order in blue italics below – I hope nobody minds, and that also saves me some writing…. though I’ve added my own observations and map as well as the website’s map.  I’m sure the publicity of this excellent walk will be appreciated anyway.

Would you believe that during the course of the walk I took over 200 photos!  My Canon Ixus 105 is sadly far inferior to the broken G10, so most of them truly reflect the standard of my snapping – very average.  But they do provide a pictorial essay by way of a Picasa slide show (123 images) – click here.

To arrive at the start, go past the front of the Stork Inn in Conder Green, down the narrow lane to the car park (free parking).  This is the site of Conder Green station, opened in 1883 by the London & North West Railway Company on its line from Lancaster to Glasson Dock.  The station closed in 1930, but freight traffic continued to ply the single track line until 1964.

From Conder Green car park entrance, by the cafe – the Café d’Lune, closed from 31 October, closed on this morning at 9.30 - follow the coastal path over the river to Glasson Dock. Turn left at Lancashire Coastal Way (LCW) finger post, right past the public conveniences and left again at the Victoria Inn to cross over the road.

Go past the large anchor and cross the bridge over the dock entrance and turn right at the cafe. Go left through The Dalton Arms car park and at the far end turn right and then immediately left at the anchor to go up Bodie Hill.

Continue left onto the main road, joining it by an orientation point in memory of local historian John Hayhurst OBE.  Helvellyn is noted as being 36.5 miles away, but was engulfed in cloud today.  Continue to the right, then when this road bears left, turn right into Marsh Lane (farm track).

By now, you’ve encountered several of the many markers that decorate the route, with the top of the lighthouse pointing the way.

Follow the LCW passing Old Glasson Caravan Park, through the gate and continue on the track across fields, with hedge on your right to Crook Farm. Turn left at the farm following LCW signs.

At this time of year you can expect to see a variety of wild flowers, including Sea Campion, Wild Cabbage, Sea Mayweed, Dandelion, Red Clover, Hedgerow Cranesbill, Creeping Thistle, Ribwort Plantain and Thrift.  You may also encounter unpleasant slurry at Crook Farm, and a series of old stone (boundary?) posts at intervals along the beach, where Lapwings, Curlew, Oyster Catchers, and a variety of ducks and other shore birds today vied for space in the feeding grounds with a large flock of Carrion Crows.

Follow the coastal path past Abbey Lighthouse Cottage, round Plover Hill (Plover Scar Lighthouse to your right) and on beyond the remains of Cockersand Abbey to Bank Houses.

The Chapter House pictured below dates from 1230.  It was more recently used as a mausoleum for the Dalton family.  There’s more about its history here.

Continue past Cockerham Sands and Bank End Caravan parks.

Fellow blogger Alan Rayner is having to take it easy in his bid to recover from shingles.  I hope the next picture doesn’t set his heart racing out of control…

Walk along the embankment top in the company of wheatears and plump sheep and turn right at the T-junction towards Patty's Farm Barn. Follow the wide track towards farm buildings, before reaching them take the marked footpath to left, up steps across the embankment. Bare right over two stiles and a footbridge, to head across in front of the parachuting club, with runway on the left.

Keep straight across fields with ditch and fence to your left, over two footbridges to meet 'A' road by a very slurrified stile. Turn left and then right up a path to Cockerham Church.

Walk through the churchyard or the path to the left of the wall and on up the driveway past the village hall to Main Street (B5272). Turn left into Cockerham Village (public conveniences on car park). Beyond the public house turn right up Willey Lane. Follow the lane past dwellings. The track bears left at a pond, then turn right at Uptown Barn conversions and go through a gate into the field. Head for the electricity pylon and pass through gate. Bear north east towards distant church spire. Pass to the right of a small pond and go through another gate. As the fence bears right, head across the field towards the distant hall.

The church spire is shown below on the right, and the farmer is to be congratulated on preserving a five foot pathway through the sweetcorn.

Go over the footbridge and stile.

Head towards line of old trees and a second footbridge. After crossing footbridge, turn immediately left and head for trees, crossing fields. Look for a gate on right with public footpath sign (I missed this and had to re-trace – there are ‘beware of the bull’ signs but no sign of any bull when I was there), go through two gates alongside disused outbuildings. Pass to the left of Ellel Grange Hall, currently a religious retreat, and head for the old stables. Go through gate, cross driveway and over a stile to follow path with wall on the left and fence on right. Cross stile and continue with fence on left.

Cross another stile and bear left to pass just right of five large trees, down the field. Go past first canal bridge on the right, and follow elevated path with fence on right, to emerge at the junction of the Glasson Branch and the Lancaster Canal. Cross the bridge and follow canal towpath for approximately five miles, passing Galgate and into Lancaster City centre.

It’s a picturesque section of canal, though not quite so pristine just north of the city centre.  

Follow the canal for a further one and a half miles to the Lune Aqueduct.

Workmen were rebuilding the banks of the canal hereabouts, and at a spot to the south of Lancaster, and the steep steps referred to below are being reconstructed.

After viewing the aqueduct descend steep steps immediately before the bridge to a disused railway line on the banks of the River Lune. Follow the pathway back through Riverside Park and past Skerton Bridge into the city centre.

Staying on the riverside path pass under a subway next to Greyhound Bridge and proceed to the Millennium Bridge (pedestrian), known locally as the 'swearing bridge' due to its two masts resembling that of 'V sign'. Follow the road along St. George's Quay, under Carlisle Railway Bridge and beyond along New Quay Road. After passing the end of warehouses on the industrial estate, take the riverbank footpath (LCW), follow this along the flood embankment to reach a stile near Aldcliffe Crossing. Cross the stile to follow the disused railway track back to Conder Green.

By now, at this time of year, you should have spotted goldfinches in the hedgerows and numerous further wild flowers, including Parsleys, Clovers, Himalayan Balsam (thankfully on the wane), Red Campion, Bramble, Bush Vetch, Hedge Bindweed (pictured below), Yarrow, Meadow Cranesbill, and several varieties of Aster.  There’s also a plethora of berries.


 
The final section of the walk, after the rigours of the flood embankment (see slide show for more) is a gentle 4km stroll down this lovely disused railway line, where there was a steady flow of commuters on bicycles whilst I strolled along, reaching the end of a very pleasant day’s walking at about 5.15 pm.

 
Here’s the map from the website.

Here’s the route according to Anquet:

And here it is according to the Garmin gadget that recorded all my errors and extra wanderings – 37km but only 133 metres ascent.

Thanks go to Norman for devising this fine route.

*  It was an almighty crash.  The VW Polo’s rear bumper must be very flexible, as it seems to have survived with only a scratch!

Summer in Timperley

We returned from Scotland to weather reminiscent of our recent trip to Turkey – constant blue skies and pleasant warmth.

It’s a shame that ‘home admin’ rather got in the way, and particularly galling that we chose to spend one of the best mornings on Sue’s ‘once a decade’ trip to a car showroom (although pleasing for her to find that prices are the same as ten years ago!).

A few short trips were however enjoyed, and after Stumpy’s failure the old Shogun Trail Breaker bike enjoyed a few outings (it’ll still be used for flattish trips around home after Stumpy has passed his medical).

Here’s Shogun, on the Trans Pennine Trail path around the edge of Carrington Moss.  At this point, between Ashton upon Mersey and the chemical plants of Carrington, the old Moss (bog) has long since been used for agriculture, and on this day (30 September) four tractors were feverishly at work in this huge field.

It’s a pleasant circuit from Timperley – the 14 mile route is shown below.  If you can do it in an hour, you’re a lot fitter than me!

The Bridgewater Canal looked in great form in Sale, on this glorious day.

It’s definitely autumn, though, with spiders very active around the house, and mushrooms sprouting all over the place.

Here’s George, who guards our porch.  He has a velvety coat which is lovely to stroke, but I’m not sure whether he appreciates the attention – he has now moved to a more secluded location.  He’s a cannibal, by the way, but is probably no more edible himself than the Shaggy Caps (aka Lawyer's Wig) (Coprinus comatus) that I discovered in Newton Heath, beside the Rochdale Canal, on Sunday morning.

It was my second trip by bike from home to Sholver, this time a bit quicker than my first attempt (see here), though by now the weather had deteriorated a little.  Sections of the canal are currently atrociously loaded with rubbish and Canadian geese, but the autumn colours are developing nicely, as here in Failsworth – not known for its colourful countryside.

 

This small dog bravely investigated my passage after I’d taken a cross country route from Rochdale to Shaw.

 

 

 

 

Kate and Jacob were in good form, as were Simon and Oscar, as we all enjoyed a stroll around Crompton Fold.

Then autumn arrived…

Thursday 29 September 2011 – Stumpy Bites Back

I chose the ‘Big Macc Ramble’ as a first outing for my ‘new’ mountain bike, Stumpy (pictured above), acquired a month ago on the August Bank Holiday weekend.  It’s a route that I’ve done many times, although not so often in recent years.  It has one or two vaguely technical descents that should have brought the best out of the full suspension and left me with a good feeling about the new acquisition.

But Stumpy didn’t play ball.  After 5km of steepish ascent the bike got fed up with its new owner.  The chain broke.  I should have known how to mend it, and I probably have a suitable tool, but it’s a first for me to have a chain failure – in all its thousands of miles the Trail Breaker’s chain has never broken.  Stumpy’s chain was exceedingly oily, so I cut my losses and free wheeled back down the hill to Trentabank.

So my first trip on Stumpy was a mere 10km, with 300 metres of ascent, in an hour and twenty minutes.

My confidence is dented, especially as the disc brakes were squealing like a demented batchelor, so I’m getting it serviced before venturing out again.

On the positive side, some steep steps encountered on the free wheel descent would have been a serious challenge for me on the old steel bike, but Stumpy took them in his stride.

It was a lovely afternoon – here’s the view of Tegg’s Nose from Teggsnose Reservoir.

The view across the fields towards Macclesfield Forest seemed very ‘pastoral’.

Here’s Stumpy, shortly before the hill that broke him.

 
Ho hum, but not so bad really, I’d much prefer my equipment to break than the other way around!

Wednesday 28 September 2011 - Lymm

Summer has arrived.  I took the old Shogun Trailbreaker bike on a 15 mile circuit from home to Halfacre Lane in Thelwall and back, on a beautifully sunny afternoon, returning through Lymm, beside the Bridgewater Canal.

I’m still using this old steel bike for flat trips such as this, but the new bike, ‘Stumpy’ will get its first outing soon.

A reminder to anyone who fancies a bit of exercise on Sunday 9 October:  the Calderdale Mountain Bike Marathon – a challenge, not a race – will accept postal entries until after the weekend.  Otherwise you can enter on the day.

It’s great fun!  A superb route.

Friday 23 to Monday 26 September 2011 – Bridge of Gaur

Friday

Sue and I enjoyed a leisurely  six hour drive from Timperley to Bridge of Gaur, where Eddie and Heather provided their customary warm welcome at their Guest House, a tastefully refurbished granite farmhouse built in 1878 by Sir Robert Menzies, which is pretty much ‘in the middle of nowhere’.

Julie and Gary had us worried for a while, as we had hoped to dine at 7pm, but they didn’t turn up until 7.30!  Never mind.  Apparently they had a good walk after staying overnight in Pitlochry Youth Hostel.

Saturday

On a dull but fine morning we started up a track from Loch Eigheach, soon watching the sleeper trundle up the hill from Rannoch towards Corrour.

Our ‘track’ today was in fact the ‘Road to the Isles’, a long distance drove road used by farmers from the north and west of Scotland to reach the great cattle market at Falkirk.

I last walked this section, in the other direction, on 19 May 2010, when it had been considerably churned up by trial bikes.  Today the track was fine, despite recent rain, and the ford pictured above was deceptively shallow.

Julie headed off to the right to climb Beinn Pharlagain, whilst Gary, Sue and I crossed Allt Eigheach by a solid bridge that was refurbished in 2001, before continuing along the drove road towards Corrour.

Shortly before reaching the high point of the track, Clach an Fhuarain, we turned uphill towards Sron Leachd a’ Chaorainn, at the southern end of the Carn Dearg ridge.

Sue is pictured on this ascent, with the Blackwater Reservoir and the Glencoe mountains behind, and a large cairn on the near horizon marking the division between two hunting estates. 

Just around the corner, hidden beyond the cairn, are the ruins of Corrour Old Lodge, which was built for deer stalkers in the early 19th century and was, at over 500 metres, for a while the highest inhabited residence in Britain.  The old lodge became a sanatorium (isolation hospital) after the opening of the West Highland Railway in 1894 and the construction of a new lodge by Loch Ossian.  The extensive ruins are well worth a visit, and the once magnificent lawn is a brilliant location for a wild camp.

The ‘New Lodge’ has recently been superseded by an ‘Even Newer Lodge’, a visit to which may be suitable for the aristocracy….

Sue found a rare moth (well, there was only one on this walk) and I spotted Fir clubmoss (Huperzia selago) and Cladonia lichen, both of which are abundant hereabouts.

After a pleasant stroll along the crest of the broad ridge, spent dicing with cloud as we slowly approached the summit of Carn Dearg, we perceived a minor hubbub in the vicinity of the summit.  We gatecrashed a party - here are Susan, Ciorsti, Fiona and Lorna.

 
A final Munro party, perhaps?

“NO!” exclaimed the girls, already reeling from their slugs of champagne, “It’s a First Munro party for Lorna and Fiona!”

We helped to finish the champagne.  So much so that I now feel guilty about not offering to dispose of the bottle.  Thanks, girls, it was a pleasure to assist!
 
Just below the summit, we lunched above Loch Ossian, where the aristocracy were no doubt quaffing their own champagne in a pool of sunshine that seemed to bathe the Lodge.

Meanwhile, the four girls trudged on towards Sgor Gaibhre.  We followed, encountering Anne Butler - half way round her 4th round of Munros.

Anne’s dog, Molly the Collie, was equally friendly.  She’s four years old and has just four Corbetts (a list of about 220 Scottish summits between 2500 and 3000 feet in height) to climb.  We didn’t ask, but we presumed that Molly has done at least one round of Munros.

The last lap to Sgor Gaibhre's 955 metre summit was achieved in the excellent company of the intrepid foursome, two of whom were now ascending their second Munro summit.  Sadly, there was no champagne on tap this time, but everyone seemed to have preserved their jollity from Carn Dearg’s summit.
  

 

 

 

 

We bade our farewells, as the four of them were returning to Corrour Youth Hostel whilst we had to descend back towards Rannoch.

Our plan had been to descend into Coire Eigheach, following the route described on page 110 of Ralph Storer’s excellent pocket guide - ‘The Ultimate Guide to the Munros, Volume 3’, but it looked a bit wet down there so we decided to go over the Corbett, Meall na Meoig on Beinn Pharlagain, just as I think I did on my previous visit with ‘Wuxing Nick’ on a hot day in April 2000.

There were fine views beyond Loch Ericht to Schiehallion, and a ‘phone signal, so although I’d not planned any mobile postings on this trip, I couldn’t resist the temptation to disturb anyone named ‘Alan’ who may have been slumped in front of Google Reader awaiting such missives… well done on guessing the location, both of you.  Schiehallion is pretty distinctive from that angle!

Fine views accompanied us all the way to Meall na Meoig, with Benalder Cottage, a bothy, clearly in view at the foot of the steep climbs to Beinn Bheoil and Ben Alder.

Sue tried something arty on the summit:

The descent to the old drove road was lumpy but dry, and involved some patience on my part as Sue and Gary’s pace had slowed dramatically by now.

We passed some erratics and then heard some hoarse croaking.  Six ptarmigan were having a chat.  Here are two of them.

Our descent continued, with fine views towards Blackwater Reservoir and the Glencoe summits (pictured at the head of this posting) now that the earlier cloud had lifted. 

Once on the track, a group of stalkers drove past us on their way down from the hill, but we hadn’t heard or seen them all day.  We’d encountered just the ladies mentioned above, and a lone gent in a bright anorak.  Julie, who went up Beinn Pharlagain and descended by the wet valley, didn’t see a soul all day.

Our route is shown below – approximately 26km, with 1150 metres ascent, taking us about 8 hours, including 2.5 hours of stops. 

 

Julie got back a good hour before the rest of us, then we gave Eddie and Heather a break from cooking by heading down to the Loch Tummel Inn, a 45 minute drive away, for dinner.  A pleasurable occasion despite Tom and Amanda’s concern that a wedding party that was enjoying a disco in the room above us might plunge through the ceiling at any moment!

“They told us it would be a ‘quiet wedding’”, explained Amanda.

Sunday

With Julie wanting to get home to Newcastle, and a dire weather forecast from lunch time, we decided on a gentle stroll from the Guest House.  We were all happy with this decision.

The first landmark, in view from the house, is the bridge at Bridge of Gaur, built in 1838 by the Menzies Clan, in commemoration of the crowning of the young Queen Victoria.  Here’s a view from the bridge.

We were told that there are getting on for 100 residencies dotted around the shore of Loch Rannoch.  These are served daily by an Asda van, bringing the supermarket from Perth to everyone’s door, and by an occasional bank and other traders.  Whilst some are holiday homes, many are occupied on a permanent basis.  Bridge of Gaur even has a village hall.

Here’s a typical highland cottage, flanked by some modern (‘email – text – phone’) conveniences.

We soon left the road, ignoring ‘stalking’ signs, and headed up a track that leads south in the direction of Glen Lyon.

There are still lots of plants flowering in these parts, with ling and bell heather being the commonest.  Common milkwort, tormentil, buttercups and daisies, devil’s bit scabious, ladies-mantles, bog asphodel, and lots of grasses and mosses – all were abundant on this walk.  A buzzard was stalking its prey.

Shortly before turning off the main track in favour of an ascent of Leagag, we passed this extensive enclosure, which I imagine may have been used by local sheep farmers, or may even have been employed by those western crofters who were taking their charges to the market at Falkirk.

We encountered one or two showers, but nothing as bad as predicted, and the sun had an equal say in matters.  If you zoom in to one of the white houses in the following image, you can just see Eddie’s shadow as he rushes around, searching for a pot of gold!

A little further up the hill, I paused to view this panorama towards Loch Rannoch, from near the summit of Leagag.

That was my Canon G10’s last picture – number 21,265.  At this point the lens jammed open.  It’s a sad time.  My reserve camera wasn’t with me, so that’s the last picture of the day.

We enjoyed elevenses near the summit of Leagag (601 metres), which is a fine little hill, albeit a bit breezy on top today, then we descended steeply to the track.  This led pleasurably down to Loch Rannoch, via lunch beside the river.  Then a pleasant stroll along quiet tarmac returned us to Bridge of Gaur, where the calm river shown above was now in spate, thanks probably to the hydro systems around here, rather than the effect of the morning’s showers.

On the way we met Raymond, erstwhile actor and quantity surveyor, and his retired sheepdog Mossy.  An ‘interesting’ couple.

We had been all of 17km, with about 450 metres ascent, taking a leisurely 5.5 hours, including 2 hours of breaks.

After tea and biscuits with our hosts, Gary and Julie headed off, leaving Sue and me to enjoy a most relaxing evening, as we had chosen not to drive home today.  My skirmish with the Millennium Trilogy was allowed to draw to a close.

Monday

It was a lovely morning.  ‘A shame we need to return home’, we thought, as we surveyed the view from the Guest House window.

(Following the demise of the Canon G10, a ‘back up’ Canon Ixus 105 is now responsible for images, whilst the G10’s replacement is considered.  Sue’s more pristine Canon G9 is also still going strong, when she can be bothered to get it out!)

After a leisurely and extremely filling breakfast, it was finally time to leave.  Heather, Thomas and Eddie - all blinded by the sun – posed for us outside their home.  Next time we visit, the old porch may well have been replaced by a larger structure with spaces to sit down and a boot drying rack.

This Guest House is a lovely place to stay.  We commend it most highly, and there are a huge number of excellent walks, etc in this area.

Eddie had pointed out that the author of several books he has in the Guest House’s living room, Alec Cunningham, died recently at the age of 91.  Alec was apparently also a stalwart TGO Challenger and has been remembered by Roger Smith on the TGO Challenge Message Board.  His funeral was last Thursday, at the Braes of Rannoch Church, in Bridge of Gaur.

We visited this lovely little church and then wended our way home via the pleasant road along the south side of Loch Rannoch.  The church has a long history of walking connections.  The current church was built in 1907, but its bell tower has been transferred from earlier incarnations of the building and dates back to 1776.  The minister in 1907 was one A E Robertson, who just happens to be Munroist Number 1, having in 1901 completed his round of Sir Hugh Munro’s 1891 list of about 277 Scottish peaks over 3000 feet in height.  Curiously, Sir Hugh’s list at that time did not include the Inaccessible Pinnacle on Skye, and Robertson may have failed to climb Ben Wyvis, but his achievement stood for over 20 years, and only 15 Munroists are recorded as having completed their rounds in the first 60 years after publication of the Tables.  Since then (in the second 60 years) a further 4851 people have currently claimed ‘compleation’ of the list, some of them (like Anne Butler) having done it several times.

We couldn’t resist stopping beside Loch Rannoch for a while.

From Queen’s View, there’s a fine view down Loch Tummel to Schiehallion and beyond, with a pair of binoculars perhaps bringing the Glencoe summits into view in the distance.

Those who joined us on this trip, or who enjoy the luxury of some ‘perusal time’ may enjoy skimming through a slide show from this most enjoyable weekend.  Click here for that.